Tracy Brown I appreciate the advice. I noticed the shaky footage when I was editing. I think it was my settings on my GoPro. When I ran the stabilize function on iMovie it didn’t seem to help so I just went with it. Listen to it like a podcast lol!

Depends on what you want. Tunnels will run shallower in hard bottom and tend to get up in shallower water. They are typically slower. I like having the tunnel because it allows me to run the skeg even with the bottom of the boat and you chances of damaging the lower unit are very low if you tend to run places with stumps or in my case oysters. You can always do a vented tunnel which will allow you to open a valve in deeper water and break the vacuum on the tunnel which will give you 10-15% more mph. You need a hydraulic jack plate to take full advantage of a vented tunnel setup.

@@Southtexasduckhunter Nice. The boat I have currently is a tunnel and it's money for shallow water, but I've considered upgrading to a bigger more all-purpose boat like a carolina skiff. Most boat's aren't tunnels so you would have to add your own which I'm not too fond of doing. Was just wondering how much height I could get before I would deal with blowout or overheating. Did you have trouble with your other boat before you added the tunnel. I would probably set it up with two jack plates a shawwing and pt prop.

Robin Inabinet not sure I understand this? However these engines are setup with the thermostat on the top of the power head. Due to this the engine has to fill up with water before it exits through the exhaust housing. Kind of like water flowing over a dam. Where the dam is the thermostat opening. I don’t run a thermostat in the engine either. As long as the engine temp sensor doesn’t go off it’s good.

We just always added a water pressure gauge to be sure there was enough pressure to get enough to the thermostat. You could be getting water thru water shield but just not enough. A pressure gauge will let you know if there’s enough going thru the system. Just an easy way to double check.

Tyler Duke will run in 1-2” when on plane. Drafts probably 8-9” sitting still

thanks buddy

Baba Yaga as high as you can get it and still get the boat on plane and not over heat. I would start as high as possible and move down from there as needed

@@Southtexasduckhunter Roger that. I appreciate your feedback.

Jhnfrmr I can get about 34mph trimmed out just right. In general tunnels are slower because of the drag the vacuum from the tunnel creates. Not always the case but a good rule of thumb.

Bill York mud motors have their place. If you think you will be in a lot of vegetation then a mud motor may be the better choice. If it’s just wanting to run shallow in relatively clean water then an outboard with a tunnel will run just as shallow and be more user friendly. Just have to ask yourself what you want to use the boat for. There is very little that a tunnel outboard won’t do compared to a mud motor. The obvious advantage of the mid motors is they are air cooled. Outboards are water cooled.

@@Southtexasduckhunter Thanks Kevin for the response! I've just heard that with mud motors, there is a lot more maintenance involved as well as having much lower horsepower compared to a traditional outboard. I'm not sure how true that is but I'm still considering my options. How wide is your boat? Reason I ask is because I want to be able to stand in the front and pitch and flip for bass and I would like a stable platform.

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If your already on plane no. But they help draft shallower so you can jump up in shallower water in theory.

David H I’ve been able to run medium hydrilla without having to stop. With the skeg even with the bottom of the boat the plants get stirred up enough from the tunnel that the prop just chops it up and sends it into the air lol. I have been stuck under a bridge where it was packed in tight but was able to force my way out after cleaning the prop off several times.

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Yea mine will overheat when idling in muddy conditions but it cools off quick. I run without a thermostat in mine simply for the fact that I’m almost always in shallow water. Make sure the water pump is good and thermostat is not clogged or just remove it. I’ve been running outboards without thermostats for years without problems.

I take the thermostat out and then break off at the spring and put back the plate where you won't get hot spots in the block and it's always work really good for me on my jet drive.

I’m running a 17p 4blade CFF4 with added cup. I wouldn’t extend the tunnel. It would actually limit your height. When water exits the tunnel it rises. By extending the tunnel you would prevent the water from rising limiting how high you can raise your motor. My cav plate is about 6” above the top of the tunnel. I can run it there because of how the water rises off the tunnel. I have ran in lillypads and it seemed to do well. Just have to really keep an eye on the tale tail

Thanks for the heads up. Not sure where you hunt but, looked like SE Texas marsh. I run tugz on the intracoastal between Port Arthur and High Island Blue wing showing up pretty decent for mid August. Hope ya'll have a good season.

johnny driedger about 6’

Alex Ordonez mine is a CMC 6” for up to 300hp engines.

buy het outbard

Mine is a cmc but there are better faster/lighter ones out there

Panurgic 01 never tried. My guess is it would do ok running across flat rock areas 2-3” water. But not like rivers where you see the jet boats running through the rapids.

Corey Rougelot I would say best case is in the middle or slightly forward of middle. If you have to choose between front or back I say front. You don’t want to overload the front but you also don’t want to overload the rear.