I don't think we will have too much time for the details this season. The video series is more of a chronicle. Besides I don't think anyone wants to sit through six hours of harness work, or motor clearance measurements, etc.

Thank you.

There are many organizations that offer race school that certifies you to get a race license. Then you can start racing on the Amateur circuit, build experience and have fun. You should do it.

I did. I am a busy business owner, father of two, head of the design department here, and trying to get these bikes prepped for the race season with that time quickly approaching. Last year we shot a more comprehensive show but this year we just don't have the time for all the details. Some viewers will be on board, and some will not, but that is all we have time for this year.

Yeah well I'm number 7 so that number is luckier than first

Dafuq your're here

And why is that.

TSTindustries What is the point of it?It looks like a chinese throwing star. No surface area so is it just to trail out the rear in a turn or what?

So it’s just there to look like it has a rear brake then? I’m going with that and so it’s still funny.

@@RaytheonNublinski race bikes have different ways of decreasing sensitivity on the rear brake.. cut rotor, cut pads or combo of both..

I don't understand your comment

@@TSTindustries I mean the passenger seat is (to my taste) ugly, but most of all it looks like they used cheap plastic.

Like said, ABS is NOT better, ever. It is only better in case of panic braking where one would lock up the front wheel and crash anyway. ABS prevents that. Depending on how intrusive ABS is, it can be tolerable or damn right a pain in the butt. Surely you don't need ABS on the track

It's a matter of preference of the rider. We know some guys that race bikes with ABS on the club level and are doing fairly well. We also know many other guys on the club and national level that that do not like the disconnect with what the brakes are doing. A lot of riding and racing is based on feel. When you have an electronic unit interpreting what you want out of your brakes and then putting it to the calipers then there is a disconnect. You have a man made algorithm dictating what the brakes are going to do under certain conditions. This algorithm was designed for street use by individuals of varying skill level and mass. For this reason, our riders do not use ABS.

Thanks!

No one really uses the rear brake as there is plenty of engine braking available. Also, brake disc is still there and that one in particular saves some weight that goes under rotating mass, very important.

The 200 was all I had in the shop. I have a stack of tires from previous years of racing the R1. I never intended to keep the 200 on there. I have since tried a few different tire sizes that work better and I am at a good setup with better understanding of what needs to be varied for different tracks and conditions.

Unfortunately that season we did not have time to do detailed videos of any of our builds. We are a company that draws revenue from our products and not videos, and that season got overwhelmingly busy, causing us to shift focus to the product side of the business.

We can recommend a local race shop run and owned by a top level tech (and even a crew chief for a national level team). That is what they do all the time. We basically set up bikes for our team and riders and the rest of the time we focus on design and manufacture of actual parts.

Eh, not really. We're still under $20k.

We use an Ohlins steering damper unit coupled with a Graves steering damper mount system. It all bolts together very easily. -BR

You are probably talking about the rotator ratchet.

On all our race bikes we have a hearing kit that has several front and rear sprockets, and for some bikes we have multiple chains. There is no one and done setup really. If you want a starting point i would talk with the fast guys that hang out at the track you frequent the most and start there

@@TSTindustries Oh… it is okay. I just was curious about the setup in the video. I am running 15-45/46/47. Depends on the track

On a grom it is easy. The ABS module on that bike doesn't forward wheel speed data to other electronics so you can probably just yank it out.

The rear rotor gets used very lightly, and has enough meat on it to withstand the torque it will see in its lifetime plus a small margin of safety.

@@TSTindustries Interesting. Thanks for the insight!

Do not buy a race fairing kit to update the look of your 08-16 R6. You will have to do a lot of custom work to make things fit, then you will have to prep and paint the bodywork, and the end result will not be what you want. The best thing to do is to buy OEM parts from a 17+. You will need subframe, tail light, subtray, undertail, seats, seat latch, front air scoop/ fairing bracket, mirrors, headlights and ballasts, all the connectors to connects the headlights, and then all the fairings. It is tough to find all that in one place but I know someone who has all that stuff in one box ;)

@@TSTindustries Please let me know asap thank you so much!

I like CZ...especially Brno. Oh and Prague for sure. I guess I should include Klatovy and Plzen too. Had a bunch of good time in those places.

We never tried that so I cannot tell you for sure.

Yes, the 68, along with the Graves mount

Why dont you like it? I like how it looks and am saving up for one

What don’t you like about it? I plan on buying a brand new r6 next year from the dealer

That really depends on so many factors. You would have to define the parameters first. There is no standard build anyone does. You can start by looking up the tech rules of the organization you are going to race with, and then figuring which systems on the bike you want to upgrade and to what extent.

Depends how much you're willing to spend. You could easily spend more than double what the bike cost to ride off the show room floor if you tried. If you want a full Brembo brake system: rotors, calipers, lines, master cylinder... 3 grand easy. Full exhaust and tune, probably another 3 grand... you like carbon fiber wheels too don't you, 4 grand... That's just getting started and doesn't even include labor if you need it.

13s? Do you mean 2013? If so, then yes... a lot of the parts from the 2008-2016 model are shared with the 17+

No update video. TYhigs got so busy that we only had time to build the bike and not document it like we did with some other projects.

Yes

Foam adhered to the tail section

Yep...and it all doesn't matter unless we can get it all to work with the rider.

We can pan the camera over to the other side of the shop where we park the R1. That's much easier

what? hahahahaha

Are you asking about the safety wire? All the hardware for the lever/master connection is there. We added safety wire there so that in case we crash and the clip comes off the bottom of the pivot, the whole assembly will not come apart and the bike may be picked up and race finished.

We wanted to test it and see the dynamics. Yesterday we tested a 180/60.

@@TSTindustries How were they different?

We did that with our SB R3 build in the 2018 season. We didn't actually have time to get into that level of detail this year.

how do I do that?

It's called Rotator

@@TSTindustries thank you

We have had a decent experience with them in the last three seasons. Pain to fix them when we crash but we typically dont try to reuse crashed ones as A body. They just become practice sets.

You are clearly trying to troll here so consider this before you post comments. All we had in the shop for rears was 200's. Was I supposed to go to the track with a bare rim? My tire supplier got me the right size for what I needed and we promptly swapped the rear and worked out a setup around a narrower tire.

The electronics are programmable. You can set it up to feel very linear if you wish, but then you can also change that at any point if you grow more wise to what these electronics can do for you.