Thank you for this explanation. Since I have not been a really focused woodworker, this is the first time I have heard of it. I have been using dado stacking blades however.

One thing I like about my wobble dado is it can be adjusted on the machine without removal. Thanks for throwing this vid out there. Cheers.

I too own a wobble blade for the past 40 years. I don't use it often, but it has always serves me well when I do.

I have one that I found on an auction site. I was surprise by how well it works and even more surprise that the adjusting marks are accurate.

Ooooo! I like your homemade push handles. Great idea. Im gonna make some today. Thanks.

Thanks for sharing those tips, and the make!

I have used one for 40 years and it is the most useful tool that I have ever purchased. The MAIN advantage is to fine tune any size needed. Wood is not always exactly the size mentioned, humidity can effect thickness... Mine is better marked that this one. Some people claim that it is dangerous, WHY would it be more dangerous than a standard dado? All those tools are dangerous, one had to be careful... By the way I use it on my Radial arm saw which is considered dangerous too... I love my wobble blade.

I have one of these - it is very useful, but I only use it for 3/4 inch dados. At that setting it gives a perfectly flat bottom to the groove. At any other setting the bottom is two small coves. This is a simple geometric application of an inclined circle - an ellipse. The blade is ground so it is a perfect circle at the angle for a 3/4 inch groove.

Had a Wobble for years, as well as a good stacked set. I mostly use the wobble on shop shelf units using MDF or particle board, because it is so rough on blades, and use the stacked set on real wood. Coves are fun to do, and if you also tilt the blade a bit you get an elipse rather than a semi circle.

Great video, a friend of mine gave me one and I love using it.

thanks for the very informative & enlightening insight for an interesting tool!

Got one. Works awesome.

Many years ago I had one that had prongs or fingers with a tooth on the end instead of a blade. Using it on a radial arm saw one day, hit a knot and two of the fingers were missing. Pieces as big as a pencil and about an inch long. Have no idea where they went. Glad they did not hit me and I don't know why they didn't. Never used that thing again, but a friend of mine kept using it. I recently got one at an estate sale with a blade in it. Very useful. Will cut a 3/16" slot and can be adjusted for the new fangled metric plywood like Russian or Baltic birch.

I use a wobble wheel on my radial arm saw a lot. Dado's and rabbits are very simple. And it makes Half laps VERY FAST. If you adjust your feed rate you will NEVER have anything but a FLAT BOTTOM cut. If you go too fast you WILL NOT have a flat bottom cut. So adjust your feed rate and all is good.🇺🇸😎

great video..Now I want one.

Thanks............something to consider.

I got one of these blades when I bought my used table saw. I had no idea what type of blade it was and what it was used for. Thanks for the video.

Such a good blade, why it stoped being made?

I inherited a Craftsman Kromedge wobble dado in 8" from my Dad. Great Old blade setup and cuts the most accurate dados short of using a router. 1/4" thick, adjustable out to almost 13/16", 70 tooth. Real low singing whir... ALL steel. One trade off with this almost 70 year old ALL steel wobble dado is it is heavier than my 8" stack unit. Doesn't matter what size of dado I am cutting, it will gently vibrate the table saw in a circular motion. 😆. Physics at work.

I've had a wobble blade for at least 30 years and I've never had any issues with it.

Very unique table saw blade !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wobble blade is ingenious design with perfectley acceptable dado cuts.

Pretty interesting indeed! Thanks, Colin! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

I love it.

I seem to recall that angling the trunnion can make the cove asymetrical.

Would this work an a Dewalt DW745 jobsite table saw?

I've never heard of one before this and as dados aren't available here in the UK, I'm going to see if I can get one of these!! 👍🏼 Thanks Colin!

I have never seen or even heard of a wobble blade before. Thanks for teaching me something new this morning

I cant even find one to buy... have wanted one for a LONG time

Where can I get the Wobble blade?

Thanks for the video. I feel like you started to compare/contrast a dado stack vs wobble blade but then veered off into cutting coves.

If the bottom of the dado was curved, wouldn't the sides of the dado be tilted? I am guessing that, in an 8 inch radius it is not a big deal. If I had one of these i would rough cut a criticl dado with the blade and finish it with an undersized router bit since most plywood is not really 3/4"

In the 70s I bought a Sears 10” radial arm saw that i still use. I got a wobble blade with it. I loved it. Still use it on occasion.. thanks Colin. Many people dont know about this. Good product.

Freud sold a wobblehead they advertised as making a flat bottom groove. That was 15 years ago or so, but it's not still available.

I have a wobble blade and I can't see where it doesn't cut flat every time.

I have a two blade adjustable I would consider it a wobble also- no?

Fine on a heavy saw, not so good on a cheaper / lighter one. I tried one and didn’t like it. I use a stack on my 1950s radial arm saw - it’s a monster.

Advantage of the wobble blade was you didn't need a shim stack to get the sizes right or have to fully remove the blade to adjust it.

For Shop?

I use mine all the time. It's the only dado blade I have.

When you're making a cove by running a board diagonally through the blade, I'm missing how a wobble blade would be better than a regular blade? Seems like the regular blade would work as well. Maybe you have to move slower with the regular blade?

Interesting, Cheers :-)

Didn’t you do a video on wobble blades last year? If I remember you weren’t too happy with them.

First time I've seen this blade. Wondering if it might work with my old saw. Manual says no more than 1/2" dado stack... Thanks Colin, I'll see if I can find one of these.

A whole lot of fun in a Skil saw!

I had a Craftsman wobble dado from Sears. It was beautiful. However for reasons unknown I always had a bit of healthy fear of it. One day I gave it away which now I sort of regret. I now have an 8" Dimar Dado Set that came in an aluminum case. Love it. A thing of beauty.

Confused. What are advantages cutting coves with wobble, other than 7" diameter?

Never seen or used one. Would this cause more stress or vibration on the arbour or not?

That face in the thumbnail again, you are a good woodworker sir but could also animate kid shows on saturday morning easily too

We had one when I was an apprentice 50 years ago in Oxford England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 very useful but a bit tricky to set up

Wobble blades have a particular width setting where the bottom of the dado will be perfectly flat. At all other settings there will be a crown. It will be less noticeable the closer you are to the “flat” setting. So, you can always make a flat dado using them by planning to make multiple passes with the blade at its flat setting rather than setting it for a particular width (assuming the width you want is wider than the flat setting).

One more comment: For a HOME workshop I believe that a Radial arm saw is the most useful tool, a god table saw takes up to much space in a garage, so it is of course more useful for a professional, like a cabinet maker, carpenter, etc.... Sometime I wish I had a table say too when I need to rip a heavy 3/4"x 4' x 8' plywood... BUT the radial arm saw can do it too if one has built extra (removable) extensions when necessary on both sides since the table is not very large. I replaced the small original plywood top with larger one of 48 inches. Sears used to sell extra attachment to attach to both sides to do just that. One more advantage too of the radial arm saw and wobble blade is that the wood piece is NOT moving, specially if one has installed fixtures to lock the wood in place against the fence, only the blade moves on rails, slowly if one is careful so it is SAFER and easier to make a precise cut.

There was a cheaper alternative available. Wobble washers. You only had to buy the washers with the correct arbour size.

I have a wobble blade and the whole cove issue is overrated. If there is a cove it's so small you wouldn't be able to see it unless you had a microscope. 1/64" maybe. The best thing about it is you can dial in exact dado width which you can't really do with a dado stack. Takes a lot of fiddling sometimes, but once you get it set up, it's unbeatable.

This blade does not produce a cove - it produces an infinite number of coves that converge on straight lines on all three sides of the cut.

Would this blade work on an under powered table saw.

The elephant in the room is why are they considered so dangerous?

Don't imagine it's suitable for a SawStop table saw?

Wouldn't you be able to make a cove with a regular saw blade?

I read someplace that the manufactures quit making the wobble blades due to safety issues. My information may be incorrect.

I am subscribed to your videos and enjoy them a lot, I learn many techniques from them, and I thank you for that. BUT your add for this video: wacky wobble blade makes makes it look terrifying even using wacky is an unnecessary negative comment. Obviously any cutting tool is potentially dangerous, any saw blade of any shape CAN CUT AND WOUND if not handled properly. As I mentioned before this wobble blade is more versatile than a dado although dado are very useful and more professional. I have been using a wobble blade for more than 40 years probably 50... and used it for countless projects. Some that could not have been done with a table saw (For example cutting a side groove 8mm or 9/16 or any other weird size at the end of a 12 foot 2' x 6' or other size (of course, I am quite sure that some smart guys will try to prove me wrong about that) to make such a cut I have to run the blade parallel to the table in an horizontal position, Sears provided the drawings to make small tables to elevate the material to clear the shaft from touching the table and sold a special safety cover to run the blade in such an unusual position. Don't get me wrong I am not at all criticizing dado blade at all, they are a clever and very useful invention, I am actually going to purchase one soon since I am retired and will have more time to invest in woodwork. My wobble will still be useful for cutting other slots sizes than the ones offered by the dado blade.

If I got a dollar every time you used the word "cove" in this video I'd be a rich man.

I can’t figure out at any setting, you get a cove when making a dado cut with a wobble style dado blade. The only way that makes sense a cove would result in a dado, is if you are feeding the wood too fast, and the blade is physically flexing from the pressure and causing the blade to not get into the corners of the dado, or just plain flexing from the force of cutting wood at an angle. This would be more a function of how thin the blade is, less expensive thinner wobble blades would flex and distort the dado more, more expensive thicker wobble blades would flex less, and might cause less distortion. Dull or gummy blades would flex in both instances because a dirty blade no matter how good it is, doesn’t cut well if ti is full of wood gunk. A solid wobble blade should still make a flat bottom dado if you aren’t working the blade too hard even on a small “underpowered” saw. No matter what you are using, wobble or dado stack, you are removing a lot of material, so you can’t just “power through it”. In fact I usually go slower than normal, so I know I’m not overtaxing the saw or the blade allowing all of the sawdust to clear. If you have to make multiple passes to get a good cut, going slower could fix that issue because something is clearly changing. As far as a wobble blade for crown molding, it wasn’t made clear that the blade was set to zero and to not wobble. You could see it from the video, but he didn’t point it out. As stated, the advantage was the large gullets between the teeth for clearance to remove stock quickly. I would say this makes sense unless you have a rip, or combination blade that has a similar clearance, but is made from a thicker plate than your wobble style blade. The forces on the side of the blade will be larger making a cove cut than making straight cuts. A thicker metal plate on any blade used to make a cove will be more of a benefit. If your thickest blade is the wobble blade, go with that, if you have a thicker blade that isn’t the wobble blade go with that.

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LIKE FROM BRAZIL.

Your content is good but your thumbnail pics are extra cringy.

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