You should use a SDS drill on hammer setting to drive the earth rods in.

Thank you for taking the time to film in-depth and provide all the awesome explanations!

Literally just watched part 1, refreshed the page and part 2 came up, excellent timing mate 👍

Just finished my apprenticeship in electrical maintenance on machine tools, I always felt I was lacking a bit of experience in this kind of work and watching the videos helps so much! Keep the videos coming!

I laughed about the toffee hammer comments because always had a standing joke with my apprentice from when I first asked him to get the ‘toffee hammer’ out the van to knock some clips in... I thought of that as soon as I saw you banging the rod in! Fair play to you sir for making these informative videos and putting yourself up to the scrutiny of the armchair experts!

Marathon! Good work, envious at the workshop/shed the customer is building up!

That earth rod looked like a right ballache to do, very nice job. I have the same toffee hammer in my tool bag, it's great for plugs and clips.

Smart installation. Keep up the good work 👍

Been watching loads of your videos I'm a absolute newbie and been learning so much from your videos thank you keep them coming

Great Video! Full of information! Thanks for taking time to do this Video!!!

Looks spot on mate. You just knew everyone was going to rid the pixx out of your toffee hammer lol 👍

The bigger hammer 😂👍 they can be hard work to install, well done in getting 2 in

Nice neat cable work.........keep it up !

Great videos. Thanks for taking the time to film 👍🏻

Loving the Wago’s sir. What a great bit of kit!!!!!

Fantastic videos part 1 and part 2. Well explained and good footage. Keep it up. And more of the same.. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

SDS is the way to go. Saves so much sweat and toil and makes less mess of the top bolt, in fact none!

Love the head mount view mate. Also... that bloody hammer, haha!

Fantastic work on both videos 👏🇮🇪😎

Professional job mate well done 👍

Great vid Chris I used to put the clamp on first then bang the crap out of the rod you learn the hard way when you do what you did go to get a hacksaw out the van and and find out you have left it on the other job lol still a great vid again real world shizzle

So in the UK, 2 hours of testing for two circuits and 12 pages of paperwork, and 14 stickers. In the USA, ask Bubba; "Did it trip the breaker when you turned it on?" Nope, then load up the truck and off to the next one! 😁😜

love the way you reach over a nice big heavy rock to pick up little diddy hammer

Not surprised you're shattered after that mate. Decent days work. 👍

10:11. I used to work in an office for several decades. Recently I designed and built my own home workshop (timber construction). I read up the electrical installation requirements for timber buildings and legally wired lighting and power sockets for my own workshop for 230v AC (very straight forward!). I then employed a registered sparkie who checked everything over and connected it to the mains. No problems encountered. Subsequently I also installed a complicated multi-sector burglar alarm. It just proves office workers can do your type of work -- and enjoy it.

19:56 I had a little chuckle at the exact same moment.

that hammer came from the toffee counter in woolworths, the heavy lump hammer needs less blows, less damage to threads and the shoulder !

I have the same toffee hammer - love mine for most jobs but definitely not for banging an earth rod in! 😂

Love the content, I myself would of put tray up to mains board in the shed, just to make it look a bit better other than that 100% pal. cheers for all your time you put into doing the vid content,

Great video Chris, really enjoyed watching them both. Thank you.

Nice job chris as always. Maybe a bit of 3 core flex to the Photocell but always a pleasure watching your videos.

This - Super good video. Like!!!

Wow solid copper earthing rod, down in this part of the world Galvanized steel is adequate, however the length is one piece and I think is about 2 metres .

nice job chap

Those Toffee Hammers really get the job done..... if you have a week to spare! 😉

My daughter wants her ELC hammer back.

For the earth rod - get piece of 4x2, drill a hole the same diameter as the top of the rod and sit it on the top, will let you use two hands (with a proper hammer) to hammer it in without mushrooming it over.

Great video Great job.

Good job mat

Nice job 👍

You need to use a builder's block hammer. It's does a great job, most of the time it completely destroys the hammering bolt, coupler and rod and you are picking bits of rod out of your eyeballs but every once in a while it does the job 🤪🤪🤪

6 Ohms is good. Saying 'Off of' when you're not a yank, is another matter 😂

Once soldered the coupler onto the earth rod thread, never coming apart, even after driving into the ground

Your vids ar very good thanks so much for making them plz do a how to build a retractor video

Put a little bend in the CPC and you can use it to push the cable into the wago. :) inspired by your work dude.

Quality videos and workmanship

Great vid matey.. 👊🏻

Cracking video as always Chris, thank you mate. Can you please educate on how you’d test that earth electrode? Your help is much appreciated! Cheers

What ruff arse built that!

Those copper pipe cutters are great for cutting SWA.

One of, if not the most informative electrical installation channel out there. Thank you for taking the time making these..

Why didn’t you just use one of the rocks as a hammer instead of that tiny thing? Also do you recommend those lights for a workshop with the low fixing height like that, or would you recommend a different type? I have a garage I’m turning into a workshop with similar ceiling height and I’m not sure what’s best to select lighting wise.

thank you broather.very well

Yep use your sds plus on hammer action :))

Sds on hammer knocks them in a treat

Hi Chris Hope you’ve rung Cadent if you’ve smelt gas in the under cupboard if you smell gas it’s dangerous!! Not to however small the leak is its the build up that causes the bang!!

I've been off the tools for a while now (Desk Jockey). I do like watching these videos and compare in my head how I would have tackled these jobs.(Brings back memories) I don't miss crawling through loft insulation and coughing for the next few hours. Most of what you do is of a high standard. And I bet there isn't a spark out there watching these that hasn't smashed an earth rod in with a mash hammer then realise you've mushroomed the top and forgot to put the rod clamp on first. (I know I have). Keep the videos coming.

Do you do a check to what could be runing under the ground there, cable, piping, etc

Haha you're funny, that hammer made me laugh. Some really neat and nice looking work. But I think you need to read up on earthing systems and forget the "can't export pme" myth. Also, might be an idea not to use single pole RCBOs on a TT install. Got a feeling that they should switch in the neutral in the event of a fault.

Good video, but just a few points. 1) There is nothing wrong with exporting a PME earth to a wooden shed in this environment. 2) The Sub main then needs correct selectivity, If you really want to TT the whole system, then you could cover the sub main with a 300mA S type time delayed RCD and then 30mA locally in the shed. If using PME then I would calculate Zs of the cable run at the same time as calculating your sub main volt drop to achieve the correct Zs/disconnection times at the shed DB to avoid an RCD on the sub main altogether. then have your 30mA RCD's locally in the shed DB. 3) Where you have the SWA gland terminated into the bottom of the plastic enclosure in the shed, you are able to touch two different earth potentials (TN and TT) I would terminate the shed end of the SWA with a Nylon/insulated TRS gland and label the plastic enclose "Warning contains two different earthing systems, Risk of Electric Shock" or something similar to cover yourself Sorry, this is only meant as constructive criticism, not as a put down. I do like your video's, you have some great content. thank you for sharing. Kind Regards Gareth

Nice job 👍 a lot of led lights don’t work or fail well before they are supposed too i’ve noticed lately. Do you not put the clamp on the rod before braying it in the ground?

Wow - that is a really neat and very slimline light fitting. By comparison, it makes the conduit look very ugly. 🙉

There is no prohibition on exporting PME provided there is no extraneous metalwork importing earth potential into the outbuilding. Of course an earth rod is always sensible.

i have just built a 10x20 shed in my garden do i need a earth rod and you need a post driver lol

If you have RCD protection on the SWA going the length of the garden to the shed consumer unit, can the RCBO’s inside the shed consumer unit have any interference with the RCD back at the house? Thanks.

Hey Chris, fantastic video again! Quick question, what model of wago are you using to accept the 1.5mm conductor at the 28:30 minute mark please?

why have you put the banjo on the gland into the adaptable box?

Good job Chris. My ocd was triggered with the dusk / dawn sensor and that cable - not be better with copex?

The way that's wired is the sensor only works when the switch is on in the shed with the inside lights?

You should really get a SDS-adapter for slamming in those earth rods, if you do more than a few pr year, its def worth having one of those. Then again, that wouldnt have been nearly the entertainment of watching you with that massive hammer mate Loving the vids.

Hi. These videos are great. Thanks for providing the insight. I’m doing a garden room & would like to know what options I have for the connection to the house mains, as my current consumer unit is full. I know it can be upgraded, but are there other options to consider?

Hi mate were has the armord cable been fitted before it was put in to the shed is it in the house consumer unit

A guy I work with said when they were doing substations in Ireland they had to put 30 plus rods down joined like you have to get to their desired reading.

Any external connector between two rods is going to create a hole that is wider than the second rod, so the second rod is not going to make much difference as it will have as a very poor connection to the ground (unless the ground is very soft and you can compact it back around the top rod over its full length). Those external connectors are best used when you can backfill a wide borehole with Bentonite. If you want to drive a rod with a connector and get a good connection to earth, you need an internal connector and rods specifically designed to work with them. You also need the SDS attachment so you can drive the rods with your SDS drill. There are a big timesaver, and they stop comments about your wee hammer!

I'd have put a nice bit of round flex to the D2D sensor, rather than the T&E. It looks better and those glands seal better on round than flat..

you can get an attachment for your hammer drill to drive in the grounding rods

Yay flexi con 🙌

Can I make a suggestion when fitting the earth rod? I use a drill set on hammer it works like a charm must be a heavy-duty hammer next time you fit an earth rod try the hammer you will be surprised

never been a big fan of dry earth connections, always thought soldered would be better.

Where's the old bending spring? 👍🏼

Where did you get the app for the test results ? And can you get all the different test sheets for the IPad

Good video mate and nice job. Just two points of criticism, should they ever decide to board out the ceiling all of your conduit boxes will be in the way, should have dropped that top run of tube by an inch or so. Second the three core to the photocell - UV ?... I would have gone with black rubber. Also , singles would have been my choice vs t and e. Cheers

I’m not a sparky but do you have to figure out voltage drop over the distance from consumer unit to shed and buy appropriate size cable to reduce to drop?

In some situations it maybe necessary to put a detached building on its own rod, however there's nothing wrong with exporting the pme system to an out building or a tns system either.

I can't believe you use that hammer lol

Why do you refuse to arrange a separate circuit for the heater?

Are you guys getting the bigger sleeved cpc in your t&e anytime soon its here years now? 🇮🇪🇮🇪

Great another 40 min video thanks for the new episode, I know how much time it must have taken to edit not easy !!! I do appreciate it keep up

Another informative video for a padawan sparky like me. Cheers Chris 👍🏻

Oh wow - I always knew those spikes went down a fair way, but I had no idea they were THAT long.

Tidy conduit why not singles tho. Also don't like wago type things with stranded, I know that's not stranded. I must forget the cork every time 😃

Really enjoyed the video Chris, well explained. Again this is the real world and you coped well, keep up with the ranting fella! 👍

Thanks for another great video. I am currently looking into getting some certification software and wondered what your thoughts are on the iCertifi app. Would you recommend?

Also the toffee hammer, will allways get comments. Shows everyone else who cilps cables in tight spaces and who's lazy! 🤷🏻‍♀️😉

Taking SWA into a house. Do you always take it straight to the CU or can you terminate it at a junction box then run 2+E to the CU say if it was mid terrace from back to front of house. Thanks.

one rod use a dedicated tt tester to find the best spot the megger 1741 has this function built into the mft and a extra tip i like to use a cat scanner in case i hit something you never know rent one from hss

On TN-C-S systems, we usually add a local ground rod array because of the open neutral risk. 3m x ground rod delta array must be

What is the name of the box the swa cable gies to before you strip the steel wires?

Is ok to use single pole rcbo’s on shed consumer unit on a TT system?

Jeeeeezus. Good job the pros left some tools lying around for you to use!