Lmao

Haha that confused me for a slit second and then I laughed very hard. Well played, sir! Haha

😂 legend

@@bobbybenjani1978 Thanks man.I have been giving folks like Bob Villa tips for years.Though he never used them or compensated me for them.

@@TheIdeasGuy lmao sadly I wasn't joking though.

😂😂😂

I am right here.....we repainted the house to a different color scheme, only to find that the toilets were not actually white, they were light almond, so new toilets.....and the tubs....and the tile.....and the kitchen countertops.....and half of our decor. We should've just knocked the house down and rebuilt it.....

@@Calypso-rb9sf Time to eat something white to make it match. 😂

Oh man. I'm going through this, not quite as bad. Got vinyl plank to replace carpet. Might as rip out the crappy trim....might as well paint the walls too....might as well paint the ceiling. One of these days I'll get to the part of actually putting the damn floor in.

Hahaha

No joke! Half instructional videos… people want to introduce their dog, where they went to high school, their hobbies… straight to the point

Dont forget your returns. He didnt mention anything about them. And hes got none in the video. Hes still an amateur.

yeah these youtube carpenters always say some complete nonsense compared to guys who been doing this for 20+ years.@@TopRankedKilla

Happy to Help Angela! Best wishes on the fixes.

That's if you really want to salvage and reuse the baseboard. If that's the case, I would add cutting the trim nails flush in the back, vs trying to hammer them out. Unless the head pops up, which all of them won't. The trim will break regardless what precautions. Old, really hard wood lumber will splinter, the newer crap will just snap.

@@keithmarlowe5569 The other day, I took up some solid wood trim that was installed ~30 years ago with hand-drive 6d finish nails. I kinda wanted to save the wood and see if it could be re-used on another project, so I went to pull the finish nails through the back of the trim, like I do all the time with 18 gauge pneumatic finish nails on MDF. Hoooolyyyyy crap. I think my arm was done after pulling just one through. The combination of solid wood being sturdier plus the bigger difference in diameter between the shank and the head on those 6d nails kicked my ass. Immediately switched to using my nail set to recess any heads sticking up and then flush cut the nails in the back.

😂

You’re still in lockdown? Where do you live?

Had a snap one in Western Australia a few weeks ago, all free now…Eastern States locked down now with key throw away 😳

That’s awesome Paul! Every good carpenter should know how to cope mouldings! The place it come in handy for my is installing cabinets and tying in new crown to old crowns. Thanks for supporting the channel!

Thanks Ana, I appreciate you checking out the vid🔥

😂yes! it’s all we see

It's not usually on purpose. I did roofing for years and just driving down the road a bad roof jumps out at you.

I think they're called plinth blocks!

Great to know thank you! The red bars made by Richards were made for Glaziers, They can be found in most tool stores in the paint department.

That’s a great idea, I’ll remember that for the future.

What is a back band molding?

Thanks buddy, I've always been a fan of using shims. It's simpler than fiddling around with the scribing tools in my opinion.

I also dont scribe to floor unless gap is more than 1/8. Caulking is necessary no matter what to seal the bottom edge from moisture , washing floor etc. Let the painter do it. Use quality caulking also. If you choose baseboard thicker than casing just put backband around casing. Its just piece of maybe 1/2 " by 1" piece of trim . wrap that around edge of casing. Adds a nice detail an enables you to use thicker baseboard. Good luck to all. 😁

Thanks buddy, I appreciate the comment

Cheers buddy, enjoy your weekend 🍻!

@@TheFunnyCarpenter you to bud!!!!

Small improvements over time brother!

Thanks for checking out the vid

I won't install anything but PVC in bathrooms.

​. I just renovated my main bathroom myself. PVC all the way for all the trims and baseboards.

🍻

Thanks Aaron🍻

Whoa, somebody saw you coming, lol. That ‘Richards’ flat bar sells for about $10 everywhere and the no-name varieties are about $6.00.

Trim Puller brand name tool is 30 and worth every single penny. It’s one of two tools I own that is never lent to friends

@@johnbrunko: The Richards flat bar being used in this video is pretty much the only thing I use to remove baseboards and casings of the past 40 or 50 years designs. I usually back it with a 4” putty knife until the trim is loose (to avoid damage to the wall) and then just pull the trim off mostly by hand. I own several of these bars because no one I hire ever has one and they’ll start removing trim with a 36” wrecking bar if I’m not looking. Those little bars cost between $6.00 and $11.00 and at one time, along with the Estwing 20oz straight claw steel-shanked ripping hammer, they were the most stolen item in my tool kits. Having said that I also own pretty much every other size and design of prybar including a cat’s paw, a ‘trim-puller’ type and traditional and non-traditional crowbars from 8” to 40” that cost anywhere from $1.00 to about $24.00. The cat’s paw is an older style Estwing and was FREE! After decades of ‘donating’ my tools to other trades someone finally left something behind for me. I have no idea who left it but after a week I took it with me and still have it if you’re looking for it, lol.

@blaster 0416: If the baseboards are 100 yr old 1x8 planks over plaster you definitely don’t want to remove them or you will also remove half the wall with them, lol.

As " Paint grade " trim has become far more common then natural/stained wood ... it is generally far easier , and certainly more time efficient , and a lot less expensive , most will just do what you can with an inside miter cut , and fill it with caulking etc. So Yes , the art/skill of cope cutting , is/has become lesser used . Won't be long before new young carpenters will look at a coping saw with the same confused look as when seeing a rotary dial phone . 🙂

You have your own set of issues. I would not use a pre primed and painted baseboard or any trim piece for that matter. There’s no way to make it seamless, unless the manufacturer provides a color coded caulk. In most cases caulking finishes off the baseboard, integrating it to the wall and other areas where it touches, not to mention helping fix the occasional infer or over cut miter.

Cheers 🍻

Not all finishing carpenters will take the time to scribe the baseboards if you don’t know what your doing it can take for ever.

😂😂😂this is so true!

Thanks buddy! That would be pretty cool, although it’s hard to fathom I’d have a lot of interesting things to say😂. I’d probably just end up asking Steve a bunch of questions.

@@TheFunnyCarpenter Either way, it would be entertaining. You have a great video/stage presence. Why Hollywood has yet to discover you is still a mystery to me. 👌

Nice technique

@@TheFunnyCarpenter it doesn't always work depending on if it's real wood and was fastened on with finish nails but I've been doing it that way for quite a few years and they usually works pretty good especially if the flexible drywall knife is only used for pushing down to finish cutting the caulk and then using the pry bar behind it. I don't think one method works for everything. Mine certainly doesn't. 😁