Howdy, solid mounting the exhaust cause fatigue cracks/breakage. Most exhausts use hangers and rubber mounts to allow some movement. Love your work. Onwards and upwards.

Don’t run the engine oil out to 20k, do a total change at about 12k (every second filters), Diesel engines contaminate the oil with fuel oil and exhaust products that break the oil down, it’s cheaper to replace the oil than rebuild the engine.

Love the technical side of things... probably a good thing since I am a diesel mechanic by trade. Noteworthy-- if there is no flex pipe between the engine and the exhaust pipe, it will crack from flexing and heat-cycling since it is now bolted solidly to the frame. The engine mounts will allow for slight flexing, so the exhaust must flex as well, either from flex pipe (usually very expensive) or from rubber-slung hangers (usually very affordable). If there is a flex fitting, no worries. Also--- (I was WELL into my career before I figured this one out, so don't let this one get to you) when pouring any liquid from any jug, turn the hole to the top. It will allow the goo to pour without glugging and the dribbles will be mostly or completely eliminated.... (important as one gets older) 😳 Please keep in mind that if you ever work on your calipers in the future, NEVER use anything to lube the caliper slide bolts except synthetic grease-- anything else will cook into cement... anti-seize, regular grease--- it will absolutely ruin your day if you use these products on calipers. Ask me how I know. The calipers must slide in order to allow the pads to wear evenly and apply even pressure to the rotor so you don't cross the center line or accidentally go 'mogging at highway speeds. Your channel is appointment tv for me--- I have a bad day if I miss a new video, so please keep them coming, and thank you for inviting the world along. You guys ROCK, and I wish I was tagging along in my own truck just so I could see the ocean again. Crack on!!!

Those exhaust mounts look solid. Is there a flex joint in the system to absorb engine vibration.or are those solid mounts going to break caused by vibration.

Hey guys great video. Definitely agree with comments made about modifying breaks. Be careful. Also not sure about just changing the oil filters and not the oil. Oil is cheap in comparison to rebuilding the motor. Just cheap insurance to change at the same time. Can't wait to see the colouring. Cheers

I drove these Unimogs in the Australian Army. We took them to northern Australia in the middle of the wet season. Unfortunately they didn't😉 come with an Ange

Great job doing all the maintenance needed for the UNIMOG and your home to function safely on your adventures!

I've got Ironman suspension on my 4wd and it's brilliant. Highly recommend them.

Randomly scrolling around on youtube. Spots a thumbnail, wait that unimog looks familiar.. Wait that backyard looks familiar. So this is what was happening the many times i drove past while working. Wild times.

Really excited to see you guys cross the Simmo, my girlfriend and I did it about a year ago solo in a Patrol. Take plenty spare tyre tubes I think your biggest issue will be punctures due to the Mogs wider track, one of the Mogs we ran into got 6 punctures doing the Hay river track !

Keep a log book of repairs & servicing dates with relevant notes & observations if your not already doing it. When changing fuel filters I like to tip the fuel from the filter case into a glass jar & let it settle to see the water & contaminates level in the fuel system. Best practice to use paper towels rather than rags when working with the engine & fuel system, tiny paper fibers won't hurt if the find their way into the system but a stray thread/s of cotton is not good to have inside an engine as they can block small oil galleries.

Hi..once told by a mechanic....never flush an older motor. It would remove some of the sludge which in turn helps prevent leaking seals. May be worth further investigtion...Great job guys...you s hold be proudly of yourselves

great realworld episode showing the unglamorous side of expedition vehicle maintenance. Agree with everyone else with regards to the exhaust. can't wait to see what colour you chose

Really interesting episode. Great to see the maintenance side of living with the mog! Thanks for sharing.John

Love the repair and upgrade content! Keep it coming

Awesome guys, take care, love behind the scenes.

That is the way to do it , tak a trip, find faults and sort it. Like a new ship on sea trials. In the end you will have your perfect camper. The mods never stop though, ask me i know. Great vidios !!

I personally like these videos just as much as the adventure videos!

Hey Ange and Chris. Greetings. One can never do enough maintenance. Especially prior to tackling the Simpson Desert. Don't forget the famous Finke Desert Race is on 11-13 June. This is the motorcycle race from Alice Springs to Finke (220 klms) and back again the following day. Quite a spectacle if you are in the area. Enjoy. Thanks for taking us along on your adventure.

Just an observation from an old army mog driver, I have see a tyre blow and ripoff the whole rear mud guard were you have your heater fuel tank fitted.

Everything on that truck looks so heavy! And HD! 😁

Another great vid guys glad you got the brake issue sorted can’t say I’ve ever heard the brake squeal on any vids so great job editing 👍🏻 take care and enjoy guys.

Loved this episode well done with the repairs

"was a pretty straightforward job which was nice for a change on the mog." haha, no truer words have ever been spoken...

Thanks for sharing, and to the other folks who provided their observations and fixes. I love knowing how to service my vehicles.

Great upgrade, you won't go wrong with those shocks.

Agree flexijoint might prevent broken exhaust manifold when flexing (happened to mine). Great vids. You may be surprised how much crap sits in the bottom of your fuel filters after taking out the filter. Not sure about putting new oil in with old oil. Usually pretty black. A good test is to look in your review mirror at night into folllowing headlights and you will see blue smoke if it needs changing. Best of luck love the vids

Hint , to keep your new “ nitto “, air fitting clean from dust and water , get. Denso Tape , from Bunnings to wrap round fittings . It’s a very greasy clothe tape ( yukky on hands ) but as dirt and dust collects on the out side of tape ,it’s better to take off and if you do it carefully you can reuse it. But keeps nitto fittings clean. Plus it the tape can be used in a lot more places 😎👍

Interesting discussion about the installation of grease fittings in joints in benzworld Greasing points on a u1300l page-2

Great content and really intersting to learn what it is like to own a large vehicle like the Unimog. I also agree that exhausts are usually mounted with flexible joints and solid fixings may lead to cracking.

Love it guys, you are so good at story telling and great use of image that I always enjoy your content. The bonus we get to see Your journey without leaving our environment 😊

Your doing a top job guys! From a mechanics point of view your doing good! Keep up the good work. Safe travels

A thought: I'd keep the trailer brake airlines in place … you never know, you might want to tow a trailer or camper trailer some day, and if only that of friends or of a vehicle you come to assist on the road. If the gladhand adapter is leaking, it's mostly dust or rust from inside the system that is blown into the valve seat. Operating the valve seat repeatedly will help it to be blown out again. And then some technical vaseline can help to keep it tight. Usually a truck will have full air pressure on the red-coded supply airline for the trailer (at least mine has). It's just that using a long and thin compressed air hose from there to the tires will cause quite some pressure drop. So having a compressed air connector somewhere between the wheels (like you have now) seems a good idea to me.

Nice job, should be a nice smooth ride and enjoyable trip!

If it consumes oil look at using bypass toilet roll filters. You just change the filters at service intervals and then top up oil as needed. Works really well in on-hwy truck applications.

Them foam cell pro's from ironman are the ducks nuts! Best foam cell on the market imo. Mate has his in his patrol for over 5years and it got punished and they were still fine. Stiffened it up a heap also.

I crossed the Simpson with a stock standard BT50, except for a set of A/T 265/70R17s and a snorkel against the dust. No problems at all, never got bogged.

Best name for penetrating oil ever! 😆

Little tip about the Sikaflex Stick & Seal: I like MS polymers as well as it's non-toxic. But both the MS polymers and the PU glues have the issue that very thick seams may never cure, or it may at least take weeks and months to cure through. That's because these need air humidity for curing it, which is blocked more and more by already cured material. So for thick seams (≥30 mm wide, and certainly for full-face glueing), I propose you switch to a 2K MS polymer glue. It mixes two component while applying it, and cures in any thickness within 1-2 hours. Makes it also great for repairs on the road. Not sure what brands and products of that type you could get down under, though.

I love this channel. I’ve recently purchased an LMTV I’m building and they are amazing trucks. It’s awesomeness to see other build series like this.

Great video! Different, yes, but still great to watch! It’s all a part of your story. Maintenance it key to keeping the bowser running properly! Can’t wait to see next week’s upgrades.

I love this sort of content, and love your vids.

Unimog is best 4x4 in the world.! 👍🏻 portlal axs is best

Everything is a hammer, when you need it to be.

Just note any accessories fitted to an air brake system must have a pressure protection valve fitted to comply. You have to be super careful when modifying a heavy vehicle, especially the air brake system

You are great!!!

That shock change looked quite easy... but then you do have 'He-Man' muscles. Have to get new shocks for my VW camper, sadly a bit trickier to replace, mwinly as it's so close to the ground compared to the mog. Also needs a new dual mass flywheel so am crying at the outlay! At the end of the day we get a lot of joy from the camper (as you do from your mog) - it's a mode of transport, a holiday home and a mobile cafe for long journies so can't begrudge the odd bit of maintenance now and then. Keep having fun!

Hi Chris, keep the 8bar connections!!!!!!!! One of the issues I have is the previous owner removed them, and it’s very hard to (and expensive) to find air accessories that can take more than 10bar. So I am trying to get a 8bar connection back on the Mog…..

Hey guys. Another great video and a great Mog build. In all my years of working vehicles I have never herd of changing oil filters and not changing the oil. The other way around maybe 🤔.

Great stuff, set of jobs/mods that will give you peace of mind when out in the middle of nowhere. I don't want to be "that guy" but seeing you sat underneith the Mog with only jacks supporting it were a bit scarey, or maybe they lockout somehow and are safe? Axle stands would have calmed my nerves a great deal lol Cheers Ian

Very important to stop and give your vehicle a good service every year. Prevention and piece of mind. Can't wait to see what colour you've chosen. I'm guessing same colour as cab. Marty from Perth

I've always been told to Prime shocks before installation. Although not necessary, it is advisable.

Slow driving in low gears makes for a lot of duty hours on the engine thus the comparison to mileage is off. Get yourselves an hour meter for more realistic oil change intervals. Also adding a little oil as it gets used up doesn´t replenish oil quality enugh. Think your saving at the wrong end here.

If you turn your tire (steering) that should have gained you a lot better access to things like your shocks. Just a thought. I enjoy your videos a lot,I can’t wait to get my truck built and get down to Mexico!

CHEERS GUYS!

Glad to see you get to check off some maintenance stuff. Really nice to have 2 calipers on each side, I suppose you could disconnect 1 if it freezes, till you get to a shop to fix it? Good idea on the water and air tank mod. Curious how exhaust will hold up with solid mounts instead of rubber..

If the manufacturer gives an oil change interval at 5,000km then this can be doubled if you use fully synthetic oil but not with semi-synth. I would stay with the manufacturers change intervals especially as you will probably be operating in dusty conditions. As the engine is designed to use oil then it is likely that it generates a deal of carbon and that is why the oil change intervals are short. The real way to extend the oil intervals is to add a bypass oil filter system like Kleenoil, which is what the big haulage companies use. The Kleenoil system bleeds oil from the oil gallery and passes it down through a filter reminiscent of a toilet roll which then returns to the sump. The filtration is down to 1.5 microns and you can really feel the difference in oil texture! Your standard filtration is usually 15 microns and chunks of carbon that size will eventually wear out the bearings. At 1.5microns there is more than enough clearance for the oil to flow through the bearings without carbon touching metal. Because the filtration is so fine it cannot be a full flow because of the restriction so that the standard filtration is retained. At the normal service interval only the bypass filter is changed, the oil and main filter can stay in place to double the service interval - but check with the manufacturer. A bypass filtration system will pay for itself within 4-5 normal oil change intervals.

The winch looks way better!!!

Good work guys

Love your videos in southern California 😄

thank you for sharing beauty video

Bonjour, très bon travail et grand service. Bravo et merci pour la traduction française. Bon dimanche a vous deux. Le ptit suisse.

Intimidating business, keeping up the maintenance on a an old truck. I was shocked when you mentioned how much oil the Mog CAN use, not that yours has, as you've mentioned. I'm still undecided about whether to get one as yet 🇦🇺

Well done love your channel..just a tip worth priming shock absorbers before installing i.e push them in and out a few times ( if you can )

Nice good to see. Something of note we use to pre fill the oil filter on our big diesels in our boat so they had oil pressure immediately. Dunno if this would be a recommended practice on the Mog or not. Also not sure if it matters or not but diesels have a habit of turning the oil black from the combustion process, burning oil doesn’t remove this so not sure I agree with your change the filters at 10k and the oil at 20k think I’d be doing both at 10k. From the tiny bit or research I did the particles that make the oil black are also too small to be filtered….. dunno warrants your own investigation and decision.

It’s half of a olive fitting from one of your fuel lines

Trying not to be a harbinger of doom here, remember chassis torsion is a Unimog feature that may not do the rigid exhaust mounting any favours and I think I'd be adding a braided and / or bellows flexible element between the turbo and the rigidly fixed pipe to accommodate engine movement on its resilient mountings. An overlanding truism is that Mercedes-Benz truck original details endure, whereas your own "improvements" often fail. So with baited breath I'm hoping a recent 90 degree silencer box rotation (with braided joints) on a U2150 will survive as an exercise to free up more chassis locker space where your spare wheel sits. A reminder to myself here also to carry some welding rods and long jump lead cable for 24V emergency field repair welding as well maintaining reserves of steel strip and gutter bolts! Stated OM 352 oil consumption is interesting; I've rarely needed to top up in the OM366LA successor motor. A suggestion here for a video on field repair materials. I had a rear hub breather pipe banjo bolt fail and carved a temporary plug out of wood for return to civilisation. Jump starting the truck from the house battery has also saved me from recovery and there is a way to manually release Unimog parking brakes without compressed air to allow a rolling downhill bump start.

Great episode guys but changing the oil filters only and not the engine oil😩

THE SIMPSON!! We likely to see you guys at the BIG RED BASH in July 🤷🏼 BOWSER VS MOGMAX UP BIG RED 😏

that is the coolest vehicle. I can only imagine how much diesel it uses and the price down under. Crazy prices in Connecticut at 6.50 to 7 dollars a gallon.

👍😉 your video bomb

love your channel guys. what was that in your fuel filter?

If the engine is designed to burn oil and you're using semi synthetic it might not be the best choice. I have heard that mineral oil is better for that application. I'm no expert so maybe ask on the mog forums. Great videos. I'm also in Adelaide.

What was the rust converter you used during the build?

Great watch guys love how you both give it a go yourself. That was great to watch. Chris watch Marty T YTchannel Videos from NZ. You will like it mate, you’ll learn a heap on fixing machinery yourself as you do. All the best safe travels

Cheers guys 🇦🇺🇫🇷🇳🇿🚛☮️✌️👍

i amplanning a 12 month visit to australai and considering a unimog to do it in, what can you tellme about what i should look out for in choosing the right vehicle, mechanicwise,thank for any input you wish to share.

Great to see in in my great state of SA, how far behind are the videos to where you are now?

What made you chose nulon? Are you running mineral?

Hey, that is a handy ratchet hammer you have - time4:05

Hey guys, not trying to be a Karen or anything but I'm speaking from experience as a heavy vehicle mechanic and business owner in Australia. One thing to keep in mind when doing any maintenance on your unimog is that due to being classified as a heavy vehicle, it is covered under the chain of responsibility laws. What this means is that if you ever have the worst case scenario occur such as an accident causing death etc, investigators will look into any maintenance that's been done on the vehicle, and by who. If you have just worked on your own brakes and are not a qualified mechanic, you could find yourself in a very messy legal battle facing penalties of jail time. Not trying to be a sour sob but you need to be incredibly careful with any work undertaken by yourself on a heavy vehicle and that any maintenance is documented.

Racing brake caliper, ahahha!

How did you make the cabin? Is it welded metal frame or wood or fiberglass?

How does she drive.

What was the name of your water flow meter please? No matter how hard I search, I can’t find a good 12v flow meter

Not sure about using the socket set handle as a hammer though 😱

Will the truck accept a steering stabilizer

what tires do you use?

Hi guys, enjoyed the maintenance video and the comments 👍. Looks like changing oil and filter at the same time was high on the list of recommendations. Like to add my 10¢s. Put the date of change on the filters canisters for a quick reminder… Looking forward to the next adventure, stay safe. Cheers from Miami, Florida 🇺🇸

Oh don't cheap out on oil dude. That is the one thing that really can add longevity to your engine. Filter swap AND oil change. And you got a turbo too, right? Don't nickel and dime shit so hard you end up ruining the turbo or worse. Take care of the engine and the engine takes care of you.

Really enjoy your videos, but don’t understand why you only change the oil filter and not the oil. Old saying (which has always served me well) “Oil is cheaper than metal”. Keep having fun

🇿🇦👍🏻

👍🇦🇺❤️🍺

You forgot to "bleed" the shocks of air before fitting them.

تبيعونه

🤨

Today 500 bucks will only buy a tank of fuel :-/