You are welcome! Thank you 👍

Thank you so much for your nice comment. Its feedback like yours that motivate me to continue making videos. Many thanks indeed. Craig

@@TheRepairSpecialist Friend, how best to position the L nozzle on the carburetor?

You are so welcome! And I really appreciate your kind feedback. Craig 👍

Sorry to hear about your thumb, but I do agree that these chainsaws are brilliant value for money. Mine has never let me down and is still going strong. Thanks. Craig

Here you will see me adjusting this chainsaw with total ease. Unlike some budget chainsaws, these have their fuel screw adjustments accessible. The adjustments are just a flat screwdriver headed screw. I don't know about you but I think this makes life much easier when they are like this. It's much easier to make the adjustments and keep them running well: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bZqgbKl90q_Pm6s.html . Anyway, enough of my goings on. Cheers. Craig

Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you

Thank you for your kind words about the video Bruce, and I'm glad to hear it's been helpful in maintaining your Stihl 029 chainsaw. It sounds like you've done a thorough job troubleshooting the issue so far. Let's consider a few more aspects that might help you get your chainsaw running again: Compression Check: Despite the chainsaw feeling like it has compression when pulling the start cord, it's still possible that the compression is not sufficient for the engine to start. A compression test using a gauge can provide a more accurate assessment. For most small engines, a healthy compression reading is typically above 90 psi. Piston and Cylinder Condition: The vertical line you mentioned on the piston, even if it doesn’t seem deep, can be significant. Such marks can indicate wear or damage that might affect compression or the piston's movement. It's worth inspecting the cylinder and piston more closely for any signs of wear or damage. Ignition System: You mentioned having spark, but it's worth ensuring that the spark is strong and consistent. Sometimes a weak spark might not be sufficient to ignite the fuel, especially if there are other borderline issues. Fuel System: Since you rebuilt the carburetor last year, it's likely in good shape, but it’s still worth checking the fuel lines and filter for any blockages or leaks. Ensure that the fuel mix is fresh and correctly proportioned. Old or improperly mixed fuel can cause starting issues. Air Flow and Muffler: Check the air filter to ensure it's clean and allowing adequate airflow. Although you removed the muffler, make sure there’s no obstruction in the exhaust path. Starting Fluid Caution: Be cautious with starting fluid. While it can help in some cases, it can also cause damage if used excessively, especially in a two-stroke engine like the one in your Stihl chainsaw. Professional Assessment: If the problem persists and you’re unable to pinpoint the issue, it might be time to take the chainsaw to a professional. Sometimes, issues that seem simple can be symptoms of more complex problems. Your approach to diagnosing the issue has been logical and thorough, which is excellent. Sometimes these older machines require a bit of extra care and detective work to keep them running smoothly. If you've covered all these bases and the chainsaw still won't start, professional help might be the next best step. Again, these are just ideas as it is difficult to diagnose a machine when its not present and in front of me, but i hope this helps a little Craig

Thanks so much for the tips and replying. In the meantime I dropped my saw at the shop as I needed it to run. They changed the spark plug. Said compression was good at 135 psi and managed to get it started. I wasn't able to speak with the mechanic but the comments on the paperwork stated, "saw easily floods" Hmmm...well It's a battle to get it running but once warmed up it runs fine. I'll probably thoroughly clean the carburetor again and see what happens. Thanks again! @@TheRepairSpecialist

Yes definitely. Well said. Thanks. Craig

caduceus33 ok, yes I agree 👍

funnyman

Probably only one place ;-)

We call it a torch in Australia also.

If not, starting problem won't be the main problem anymore!

Merry Christmas to you also, and thank you for your great feedback and wishes. Craig 👍

Thank you for your nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Do you mean cleaning the outside to make it look nice or inside the components? Thanks. Craig

@@TheRepairSpecialist I mean both. Especially after cutting woods both chain lubricant and wood shavings are all over the chainsaw. How to clean it in order for it to perform well and safe on the next time we use it.

Thank you for your kind feedback, I really appreciate it. Yes it might be a good starting point to do just that, but there I would have thought you would have at least have been able to get the saw to fire up even if the mix is wrong. It could be something quite simple, or it could be a manufacturer issue. If your saw is very new then I would take it back and have it looked at under warranty. If you try to repair it yourself then your warranty could very well be void. I would try taking it back to the supplier first.

Yes absolutely 👍

You are so welcome!

Lm. Llllllllllml @@TheRepairSpecialist

Hi. Thank you for your kind feedback. However, I think that if you are having difficulty turning over your chainsaw then it could be that there is some seizing occurring in your engine. You might need to just make sure of this by removing your exhaust band taking a look inside the engine through inlet port. When you do check for scores on the inside of the barrel. That a look also that there nothing fouling or catching the flywheel by removing the recoil. Thanks

My saw is brand new and I have the same problem. Cold start good, switch off and won't start again. And trying to get it start will flood it and it's over for the day.

Check that the gap on your spark plug is at 30 thou, 99% of the time this is the problem with non starting when hot 😜

I hope all goes well in that case, and thank you for nice comment. Craig 👍

Thank sir. Can you also share what is wrong if the chainsaw is hard to start. It is like there is friction inside

Did I just read that?

Yes. Probably . Anything else?

I got stung on the top of my head by a wasp or bee (I never saw it) yesterday while digging my chainsaw out from being stuck in a tree.

Wow I never knew there where other people with this same problem

I wrap the engine in the trash bag when I store it. A proper case would help also.

Sorry, yes. As an Englishman I have always been used to referring to a 'flashlight' as a 'torch' because this is the dominant word we use for this. I know that in America the word 'torch' means that of a gas torch with a naked flame, but we refer to this as a 'blow torch' So this is where I have confused things so my apologies for that. A flashlight is what I mean though. Thanks. Craig

You're right to be attentive to your new chainsaw's performance, especially if it seems to be getting too much fuel at start. While your initial thought is about the "H" (High speed) screw, this screw primarily affects the fuel mixture at high RPMs and is less likely to be the cause of issues at startup. In your situation, several factors could be contributing to the excess fuel issue: Malfunctioning Choke: The choke's role is to enrich the fuel mixture to help start a cold engine. If the choke is not disengaging properly after the engine starts, it could continue to provide a richer mixture than needed, leading to excessive fuel. Carburetor Debris: Even new chainsaws can sometimes have debris in the carburetor, which can disrupt the proper flow of fuel and air. This can occur if the chainsaw was tested at the factory and not properly cleaned, or if there was debris in the fuel used. Incorrectly Set L screw. The "L" (Low speed) screw, which controls the fuel mixture at lower RPMs, might be set incorrectly. This screw should be adjusted according to the manufacturer's specifications. Stale Fuel: Using stale or improper fuel can cause various performance issues, including flooding the engine with too much fuel. Always use fresh, clean fuel mixed with the correct ratio of two-stroke oil. Likelihood of Occurrence in a New Saw: It's not common, but these issues can happen with new chainsaws. Manufacturing processes are not infallible, and sometimes minor issues slip through. It’s also possible for chainsaws to be tested at the factory, which could leave residual fuel or debris in the system. Since your chainsaw is new, I'd recommend checking these aspects: Ensure the choke is functioning correctly and fully disengaging after starting. Inspect the fuel quality and make sure it's fresh. If comfortable, check the "L" screw setting as per the manual, or consider having it checked by a professional. If you suspect debris or a carburetor issue, it might be best to take it to a service center, as carburetor adjustments can be delicate. Remember, while making adjustments, only turn the screws in small increments and test the saw after each adjustment. If you're unsure or the problem persists, seeking professional help is the safest option. It's great that you're proactive about maintaining your chainsaw's performance from the start! I hope you get it sorted soon Craig

@@TheRepairSpecialist I don't know it sounds real bad. Major tinking that got worse and worse. I put the new bar and and plastic shroud from the carborator on the old chainsaw. It starts a d sounds much better. Of course I had buggered with the Hand L screws. Since the purge bulb feels right I am now turning the H screw a bit at a time and waiting an hour. With the purchase of a new fuel filter I will put them both back together and take them to my village "master."

That brilliant. Good work 👍👍👍

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks. Craig 👍

Nice one! Well done👍

Between 90 and 110 is good for smaller saws. 60 is waaaaay too low.

@@legenderekfixes I got rid of the Mountfield which was too small for my use anyway and bought a new Hyundai with three year guarantee.

I think it is a Chinese clone made for different markets. If you're after a manual search for "Baumr-ag saw" (Australian market). In the UK Netto was selling them in green plastic under the Gardentec brand for 50 quid.

👍

You can buy pre-mixed fuel, specially made for chainsaws. Apart from having the correct oil/fuel mix, it emits very little smoke, if any at all.

Yep, it happens fortunately!

Been there, done that.

Wrong. He put diesel in it.

@@exoticcreature3059 What? Really? What an a-hole!

scored piston from not allowing the engine to warm up and starting to cut too quickly as the piston heats up and expands faster than the cylinder causing it to seize up

I have ideas, please check my previous reply. Thanks. Craig

Thank you so much, Glad it could help you and also thank you so much for subscribing -Craig

Glad to help

Hi there! It sounds like you're having a bit of trouble with your Parker top handle chainsaw. It's great that it starts when you hold the trigger fully open, but I understand the frustration of it being hard to start when hot. There could be a few reasons for this issue, but I'll try to help you troubleshoot. First, make sure your air filter is clean and not clogged. A dirty air filter can restrict air flow and make it harder for the engine to start when it's hot. Next, check the spark plug. It might be worn out or fouled. Replacing it with a new one could make a big difference in starting performance. Also, ensure that the fuel mixture is correct and that the carburetor is clean. A clogged carburetor can make it difficult to start when hot. Then there could be the issue of a failing ignition coil. Sometimes if the coil is on it's way out, the engine will start when cold but not when hot. If it is this unfortunate issue then it will be the most costly of all the issues i've mentioned. Sorry to be bare bad news if this is the case! Lastly, consider the fuel you're using. If it's old or of poor quality, it can cause starting problems. Fresh, high-quality fuel is essential. If you've tried these steps and still have trouble, it might be a good idea to consult the manufacturer's manual or reach out to a local service center for professional assistance. I hope these suggestions help you get your chainsaw running smoothly again! I hope this helps a little Craig

Not really it usually takes around 2 to 4 pulls. You need to choke it and pull it until it tries to start then turn choke off and try to start it maybe with trigger held down. Hope that helps you

A healthy engine should start in 3-5 pulls hot or cold, even the cheaper ones. Make sure your choke is functioning properly and that pump diaphragm and impulse are good

Very good point. This is a good topic for another video setting the score straight on that. Thank you

I have 3 chainsaws. A stihl and a jonsered for the more serious stuff. I also have a cheaper chainsaw that doesn’t faze me if it gets thrown around or if I lent it to a mate. This is the chainsaw you may have? It’s a gardenline brand. Starts well, heavy to use and leaks oil like a sieve. A reasonable entry level saw, not for every day use though. Hope this answered your question.👍

Ok 👍

If you haven't already, try cleaning the magneto. I was having to pull like 20+ times to start an old Jonsered, then I cleaned the magneto, used some 240 grit sandpaper to sand the dirt and rust off the magneto and the magnet on the flywheel and it made a HUGE difference, now the saw actually starts in a couple of pulls

@@garbagecan6969 great idea, thanks!

Thank you so much :D -Craig

My last "chain saw won't start' turned out to be a crack in my primer bulb. That would buy another item to add to the check list, particularly if you have not used it in a while. I had just used it two weeks earlier without issue. Normally, a few primes will load the bulb with fuel, but not this time. The primer bulb would never hold fuel. Even if I did load some fuel in the primer, it would run for 10 seconds and then quit. I had a spare primer bulb from a tune up kit. I noticed the hairline split in the bulb, replaced it, and voila, it ran like its old self.

Hector Nagano re

Nice one. Keep up the good work. Craig

It was you!

It sounds like you may have a recoil issue there. I’m not definite though. It might be worth taking off the recoil and see if it pulls out without being on the machine. Then whilst it is off see if you can turn over the flywheel with your hands. Making sure of course that the spark plug has been removed or the spark plug cap at least has been removed to make sure the engine does not start.

@@TheRepairSpecialist another video says it's the spark plug in need of oil?