I get the "hot air intakes" comments all the time 😂. I appreciate you putting this video out.

This 335i is superb because it's maintained by a real expert with thorough and intricate knowledge

Moral of the story: get a bigger intercooler.

When I bought these intakes for my 08 335i, I excepted nothing from them. I was shocked at what a difference they made. It basically eliminated my turbo lag and I hit boost instantly instead of at 3,000 rpm. My favorite mod for sure!

Just wanted to clarify how the turbo system works from a heat standpoint, since it sounded a little misleading. You start with the intake air temp, eg 100F, that gets compressed and the temperature is raised an amount proportional to the pressure ratio and the efficiency island on the compressor map (according to the ideal gas law plus additional heat from real processes being less efficient than ideal) e.g 300-400F. The intercooler then helps transfer that heat back into ambient but it only has a limited time and heat transfer coefficient (and can never cool it below ambient) e.g 180-200F. So every degree of intake temperature is scaled by a factor (specific to your cars overall system) to arrive at your manifold air temperature. So lowering intake temp by 10 degrees might lower manifold temperature by 20 degrees, but it’s still around 180F at the manifold. When you overboost those stock turbos and run them in an inefficient compressor zone and it’s a hot day, you could have air intake temps of 500F,. This gets even hotter when compressed during the compression stroke of the engine, it can easily auto ignite the fuel causing engine damage. That’s why engine tuners will drop the boost curve over 5500 to keep the turbo in a sane zone. This manifests itself as the torque curve falling off over 5500, if you ever look at dyno charts of stock turbo e90s you’ll see that, it’s by design.

Thanks for the video. I've been needing to clean my VRSF DCI's for a minute. So this will be done this weekend.

Nicely explained. So many people modifying cars base decisions on what a few people say or what their favorite brand tries to sell them. It’s important to use logic and really analyze some of these things before spending hundreds of dollars or more! This will be valuable to a lot of people!

As always thank you 🙏, You have now cleated this up for me with the explanation. It makes sense now.

higher intake temperatures still harm compressor efficiency very slightly - but you're totally right here, it gets fed ambient air, and the n54 turbos need the efficiency of easier flowing intake more than cooler air anyway.

Thank you for clearing that up 👌🏻 gives me more peace and mind about taking in that heat soak 🙄

Great Video, I have to admit, I didnt no how the intakes work. Thanks

Thanks for the education about the intercooler!

Really good video!! I just got an upgraded intercooler so this makes me feel even better. DCI gets installed Friday.

love you method of explanations you are a go to for me !

The main reason for swapping the restrictive factory air box for DCI’s is for greater air flow. The noise is better too 🤗. A bigger intercooler makes the most difference to charge temps not the intake temp being a few degrees higher

bro I own 128i n52 since I been watching your all videos and be more hands-on with my car now instead of paying a mechanic. keep it up with the good content 👍🤘

Great clip ♥♥♥! As a current KZfaqr, I am on the lookout for new ideas! Excellent Job!

Thanks man many people would tell me the same thing that they don’t work ect but I always knew it did !!

Correct explanation of these and great vid 👍

You explained this very well 👌🏼👍🏼

Great video.. good explanation as well. I have a BMS 5in intercooler with stock turbos ( e92 n54 ) About 6 months ago, I added methanol to my car. It only turns on at 11psi and higher. 50/50 water to meth does wonders for power and cooling. I run e50 with 93 pump gas as well. Jb4 ( map 7 )... Took me quite a while to get everything set up correctly especially, running both ethanol and Methonol. but once I did, wow is all I can say. 2 step spark is a must running this as well as FBO. The car runs great.. really gotta watch over boosting, not to mention controlling the car in a pull. Lol... during a pull log, you can really see the air temp go down with the meth engaged and really feel the power as well. It's night and day. Anyways, meth is an awesome addition for cooling. . Great video. Subbed.

What a awesome video. Thanks so much for posting this because it was a great help.

It has honestly only helped my heat soak issues. I ran the car a couple runs after basic maintenance when I bought it and it jumped up in heat like crazy. After replacing the stock box with dci, haven't had dangerous heat spikes ever since

Exactly. The other thing to point out is that at any real load above idle, the sheer quantity of air passing into the engine is such that the air has barely any time to be in contact with hot engine components. The engine is using a couple to a few hundred CFM. Intake air temps will rise in traffic or idle but this is not dangerous and we don't care since there's no load.

This is why my N52 still has it's stock airbox. I would love to hear some sweet induction sounds but all well. That'll come when I either have an M3 or a 335 and I get an even cooler turbo induction sound!

Thank you for explaining this 👍🏾

Great video!

you are just right bro

If it's possible I'd love to see a comparison video on a dyno with stock airbox vs the bms intakes with the hood closed? Why not just eliminate inlets all together since you'll get more air without them?

but surely cooler air before going thru intercooler will always be cooler than hotter air going thru the intercooler,it can only cool it down so much ,the lower the temp the denser the charge ,the main thing youll notice is its crap in stop/start traffic because of the heat soak (poorer MPG) ,driving around or at speed its fine ,still using stock snorkell and pipercross filter on MHD stage 1+ ,but your car is much more tuned than mine you have a non stock intercooler ,which will be more efficent at cooling too ,ive heard of this arguement thru many forums and continue to read about it to this day.....,great vid keep the content coming !!!!

I ran the BMS filters on my tuned 335i and immediately felt a loss of torque and throttle response. I could not deal with pressing the pedal and not have the car thrust hard spinning wheels. The stock box is built for the immediate torque. I was running high boost on stock turbos so I modified my stock box to help the car breath better. It's called Mr. 5 intake. I ran a 3 inch hose from the box to the fender similar to Dinans setup but with a bigger filter. I gained a good bit of torque and power over the stock box and open filters at 18+psi. I love this setup. I hated the open filters. It just felt like I wasn't going anywhere fast when slamming that gas pedal. My were 0-60 times were much slower with BMS filters. Mr 5. Intake is amazing. Im still running it with my stage 2 hybrid turbos. Its a monster! Dinan had the right concept by keeping the stock box but opening it up more. That enclosure really helps the car pull! Maybe the DCIs help at a high rpm very high horse power car. Most of us don't live at 6k-7k rpms.

I tried removing the stock airbox lid and driving around, it 100% felt slower and had a laggy throttle response compared to stock airbox and K&N+scoops. Confirmed by my friend who was sitting in passenger too as we did this a few tries comparing it. I don't know about dyno numbers but on the road the stock airbox felt better than no filter at all which I assume would be better than the dual cones.

Damn, this is the absolute best explanation ever. I have been reading threads and threads on fora and it basically went like this -yes do it -keep it stock -yes do it -keep it stock -yes do it -keep it stock etc. So a huge thank you for explaining this so absolutely clearly. I'm happy and thankful. DCI's should arrive in about a week! You rule

Hi please advise im going to park up my e93 convertible 335i 2007 up this winter until April and is it wise to take the battery out the car or start the car twice aweek

nice video :) what do you think of the "hot side" inlet type on the N54?

I have damaged the plastic duct that diverts air to the airbox. Does it matter if this isnt installed?

What about sucking in cooler air to begin with from a closed intake won’t that be more beneficial?

Where did u purchase ur charge pipe am looking to upgrade mine e70 x5 with the n55

That old saw about oil from the K&Ns fouling the MAF has never been a problem in my experience of many hundreds of thousands of miles in my non-turboed vehicles.

Big help thanks

What's the difference between BMS Dual Cone Intakes vs ArmMotorsports dual cone intakes vs VRSF Dual Cone Intakes? I know BMS uses filters by S&B company, not sure about the others. They all look very similar.

As a guy who owns several turbo cars, I can promise you lower iats is better for most turbo cars because the maf will pull timing.

great. is any difference between those K and N filter and an flate version from K and N ? i have an E64 635D i have the flat one. is any gain if i switch of one like yours ? :) thank you for those great videos ! :)

I've been saying this for years. It's a negleable loss of power on a turbo car.

Me: pop the hood person: oh nice hot air intakes me: 🙄

I have also verified what you're saying through data logs. According to MHD, I picked almost 35 ft lbs torque by changing to BMS DCI's from the stock air box. Running same stage 1 tune before and after.

Would the filters being dirty be a reason why my car stutters/ hesitates when going into 3000 rpm's I got no code and got new plugs and coils if this don't work I guess it's the fuel pump

I love my injen kit !!

Everything comes down to the efficiency of intercooler. After this mod I would upgrade intercooler to increase heat exchange rate. That why is so important to wash all the leaves and stuff off intercooler and radiator.

that explanation would work if the intercooler was 100% efficient. yes there is a delta where the intercooler takes the hot air and cools it down and yes the air leaving the turbos is hotter than the air going in to the turbos but that doesn't take away the fact that the hotter the air is entering the turbos the hotter its going to be on the outlet of the turbos, same for the intercooler the hotter the air going in the hotter the air going out. yes you can increase the volume of the intercooler and it will be more effective at cooling the air but thats at the expense of increasing the volume the turbos have to fill which translates to boost building slower and that means less average horse power along with adding weight to the vehicle . everyone in the n54 community does everything the same exact way with cone filters under the engine bay, and a big stepped intercooler. ive been working on a completely different school of thought and im convinced its the best "fbo" method. ill be putting up a video soon here but it basically involves a short run from an enclosed air box close to the turbos, utilizes the factory cold air snorkel which i would like to point out is a high pressure area of the cars aerodynamics, a small volume water to air intercooler in the factory airbox location (s55) and short run (reduiced volume) from turbo outlets to the air intake. overall it reduces the entire volume of the charge air ducting, replaces the large big heavy stepped intercooler with a smaller more efficient unit, eliminates the restrictions of the factory inlets and outlets along with the factory air box. ive also done a lot of real world testing on an otherwise fbo car on a hot 110 degree summer day with a/c blasting. i concluded that with stock intercooler the dci works better initially than a factory air box but once you stand on it for a bit or do a few back to back runs ait's climb and it pulls timing and reduces power and its actually slower than a stock air box. with a large stepped intercooler and dci 0-60 is slower consistently and 60-100 is almost dead on the same. with a large stepped intercooler and factory intake 0-60 was down just over a full second. this is all with stock turbos as well. there are definitely trade offs and a balance coming in to play, on one hand you are freeing up a restriction which initially out weights the hotter air being drawn in by going dci on the other hand if you do more than a few seconds of full throttle especially back to back that benefit goes away. if you add a larger intercooler you regain that loss from the heat soak but boost builds a bit slower and averages a little lower, drive pressure also increases as wastegate duty cycle goes up trying to meet the target boost due to the larger volume of air trying to be filled, more heat is held in the cylinders which leads to timing corrections or even flat out knock.

What’s it to be said about relocating the intakes? Is the stock positioning recieving more or less heat? Or does it not matter?

I saw a experiment on a bmw, stock intake was 102F and the BMS instake was 122F air in

Thanks! Argh, why did I buy the S&B cleaning kit?? The K&N one is so much cheaper

Ok listen guys hes not wrong but as a future engineer and certified hood vent researcher yes DCI makes more power on a DYNO but once you are at speed intakes like dinan will perform better because it takes air right from the high pressure area in front of the radiator which is basically the perfect spot (cool+dense) the intake is a low pressure zone connected to a high pressure zone this equates to high flow like a ram air intake DCI just has the area advantage so on the dyno it works better and for peak flow but if I were choosing an intake I'd go dinan for the extra snorkel over stock to beat the DCI area advantage (sidenote I have DCI on my car so I'm not biased)

DCI is setting off engine overheat warning then limp mode... After 30min driving then stuck in drive thru lines, have to pop hood and cool for 10min. Trying AFE enclosed $400

can we get another update on the turbos? i’m thinking about buying the same ones.

How often do you clean your BMS DCI? I have the same but just don't know when to clean them.

Exaclty, its not for getting mo powaa, its for getting a better air flow for the turbo.. i dont understand why alot of ppl make video saying "its useless, that dont give mo powaa" yeah true but garanty, that give a better air flow when the turbo spool and make the turbo more reactive.

I bet mum was out when you were cleaning your filters in the kitchen sink.😊

I did not know you had a ig, bro grow your ig page, it will help you grow your KZfaq page, just gave you a follow on ig keep these KZfaq videos coming , love them

I have the 2 K&N cones, or air intakes which ever you wanna call them, how often should you clean them ??

So my Injen intake Don’t wirk?

So from what you outlined in your vid makes complete since. Although I’d recommend you head of to gale banks channel. He’ll argue that the “they” are in fact hot air intakes even with any inter cooler because of density. If the air under the hood is hotter than the air out side your missing out on “compressing denser air”. Even with an inter cooler and cooling the hot air to out side temp it can not increase the density of the air from what was initially ingested. Now if the density under the hood matches that out side the hood then no further questions but if it is hotter apparently there’s the performance still left. Just some food for thought.

Also, I would like to see relocated inlets AIT's vs Stock location AIT's temps. Where would the coolest temps be at?

Would it impact the life of the turbos since hotter air is being fed to the turbos?

So I thought that the fabric filters with oil mess with the mass air flow sensor because of the oil? Does this car have a MAF, where is it located? After the intercooler? Thanks for clearing up the question about it being hot air, I had wondered that. The real test would be to install some thermocouples at various locations in the intake to see.

burger better send you some money, this video will sell a few DCI kits, lol

Why do turbo cars feel like they pull so much harder on a cold winter night then? Is it just placebo?

But wouldn't that just mean your intercooler is working harder...if air from the intakes are warmer? I could see your point if I had a bigger intercooler, but on stock ones?

Does the concept you explained still hold true when the ambient air going over intercooler is extremely hot? Would it be better to start with cooler air going into the intakes when external air temps are higher? Great video. Love your content. I cant tell you how many times your vids have helped me maintain my e90 330i (2006)

I like your other videos, but on just a FBO car dci's are worse, tested myself with 100-200 times, true driving IAT and throttle response, like many other have stated and proven on forums. Colder air in the turbo inlets means the turbos have to work less to compress the air to a certain boost level, also colder thus denser air after the IC has more oxygen in it so more fuel can be injected. Also most FBO just have a 5" IC and that is not enough for dci higher intake temps at maxed out turbo. Only when you target let's say 23 psi on stock turbo's in high rpm you may gain more airflow with dci's and at one pull it may be a wit more whp but on multiple pulls the turbos get way hotter inlet air and need to work way harder. I have Z4 airbox with K&N dropin and MHD V5 E40 map and I gap every other FBO dci N54 I know with car lengths...Even M4 is no problem to gap. Now I agree that when you do big upgrade turbos and 7.5" intercooler you will need inlets and dci's because of inlet flow restriction, but you WILL get less throttle response and some lag, multiple people have stated that on forums.

Pretty sweet , these are just two 2.25" pipes and two air filters though...the hot air intake debate is pretty stupid. The volume of "hot" air in the bay will be consumed instantly and replaced with outside air anyway

Think you'd ever relocate the vacuum canisters? Can you delete them? I wanna see a video on that 👀 love the content!

Do you own your own shop? I live in B/CS and have a 2008 M3 and would like you to service it.

Nice hot air intakes

How do you remove the stock airbox? This is infuriating

is there a certain time when the filters should be cleaned?

So hot side Relocation kit. Wouldnt make it worse it would actually make it less restricted the heat doesnt matter?

So I assume these suck in hotter air than stock airbox?.....the stock airbox pulls in cooler outside air into the intercooler which then cools it even cooler than the dual cones....

Not that it matters but why didn’t you use the S&B cleaning kit? $29 on Amazon. You can choose between red and blue oil’s. That’s what filters BMS uses.

Fun fact I upgraded intercooler as I was getting major heat soak, I ran 50f colder IAT and lost 7hp back to back on same dyno. We also tested airbox and cone filters and the airbox (with 17t turbos) caused a 50hp loss at one point in the rev range. Anyone who says cones lose power just let them be an idiotb

It's clickbatey incorrect to say they are not hot air intakes, because they are, but it's mitigated by intercooler for those who have turbo/intercooler.

The turbos are having to work harder (spin faster) to achieve the same output when breathing in air that is warmer.

AFE enclosed claims more cooling effect and 20% more CFM vs DCI

I’d still rather a cold air feed then hot air that’s less oxygen dense being cooled to then to be burned, the colder the air the better the burn, why do you think on hot summer days or nights when there’s been sod all rain for weeks the car feels lethargic but as soon as it’s rained and the airs cooled the car performs better? Also cold cold 🥶 dry winter night? The car performs really hard and pulls strong 💪 why? Cold air, cold airs better for the turbos and compressor housings, it’s already hot with exhaust gases and water feeds going through the chra so having the air as cold as you can get it will help them out, aluminium is very heat conductive, so feeding it hot air is just adding to the heat caused by the air being compressed, in all fairness this setup could do with being charged cooled as well as being intercooled🤷🏻‍♂️

Put in DCIs on 135i.Didnt like them.Lost low end ,sound not my cup of tea.Have installed ECS tunning carbon fibre box with dual cone.Much better.Great throttle responce,flatter torque curve,no hot air.😛

Regardless intercooler or not the intercooler has to work a lil harder to cool that unnecessary warmer air. But it still looks cooler barring its function.

I agree with what you're saying, but you're still taking in hotter air before the turbo than the stock configuration, thus the name hot air intake. Would be interesting to see you compare this setup to a real cold air intake with actual numbers, using the stock config as a control.

You can get away with it since intercooler is taking care of hot air before entering engine. Those who do this on NA engine will suffer from heat soak.

Offcource it adds heat!, but also airflow! Please! , do not compare an intercooler to an evaperator, #notthesamething. Dot saying that dci work, but don't tell me the air temps do not go up:), that's redicolous.

Well your theory is flawed ..i did an experiment with my Z4 351 by putting an electronic thermometer in the engine compartment..Driving along at around 100kl the outside temp was 24.5c iat temp was around 32c inside engine compartment temp was around 62 to 72c so with cone air filter your intake temp would be 62 to 72c plus an other 20c or so after going through the turbos your fmic will reduce temp for sure but it already getting air at a higher temp close to 80c plus, but unless you have a super fmic your iat temp will be much higher then 10c over ambient temp . A t a stop light witn in 1 or 2 minutes the engine compartment was reading over 90c that what you be sucking in on a take off. So i cant accept the cool air intake will give performance noise yes ! Ill stick with my oem air box with a k&n air filter

I wholeheartedly disagree with motorsports I drive an 11 N 55 335i and can see a major difference from 80° to 100 in power loss I am in Florida this is a stock car I'm about to do modifications on it cold air is the answer to power The colder you can bring that air through that air box the more effective your power will be it's just that simple an open airbox in a hot compartment is just nonsense it's been proven by very few people but it has been proven and it's called heat soak and then when you have that problem that's when you need to do the test not under normal conditions.

Yes, it IS a hot air intake.

Sorry but I’ve given you a 👎🏻 as the fashion police will be after you with the socks and sliders😂. Good vid for the newbs.

So what you're saying is it's not a cold air intake or a hot air intake. The intake just takes in hot air and the car handles the rest. Gotcha.

The gains of adding cone intakes is so small its not even worth it. Better off replacing your oem intake with a performance K&N filter and keeping the oem airbox.

Sounds not right to me. On really hot days you can really feel, how the car has less Power. And thats just because the air who enters is maybe 20 °C warmer then usual. So Samen effect you should have, if you suck in the hot air from the engine-bay

Lol, people are so gullible to believe a thread started by a company selling you the product they are promoting. Graphs where the only thing you want to see (IAT) is not on any axis to see the numbers, we just have to trust the number the retailer put down. This has been proven many times by independent parties to increase IAT, not decrease it. With such a compact motor and turbo pushing decent PSI you will not see a difference in IAT in most situations, you will however see a difference in torque sucking in them hot engine bay air.....

Not sure why anyone uses these, there is ZERO performance increase from the stock...plus you can buy the K&N to replace the stock filter.

They made my car have loads of lag