i thought same way

In the tutorial I did increase it to 10 seconds. But even then the sync was not accurate. I don't usually have that issue when I'm stabilizing footage on my M6 Mark 2 or Canon R10 though.

@@khanceptbelal You increased the time to analyze per sync point, that's not it. Most important setting is "Sync search size" which is the time it takes between starting gyro logger and video, ie. the maximum sync point offset. You had it set to 0.5s which is obviously too short to find a good sync, because it took like 2-3 seconds between starting insta360 recording and video recording. Leave time to analyze at 1-2s and set Sync search size to 5-10s and use autosync. Also instead of using Guess IMU orientation to get the analyzed parts, use "Auto sync here" and delete sync point afterwards

Adrian, do you know why my autosync button is always offline? Also when Im importing video there is no histogram below like in all this tutorials

@@godancs2 do you have lens profile and gyro data loaded? what camera are you using and what gyro log?

@@AdrianEddy Im shooting on phone with MotionCam app (it has option to record gyro log and it supports Gyroflow as stated in option menu) yes, I created own lens profile and tried to use the one people uploaded. still nothing. Hope you can help

I appreciate the kind words!

You can always add your new perspective! I've been considering making a few more tackling different angles for the use of the software

@@khanceptbelal That's my problem, i could not get my cell phone to line up correctly so i had some weirdness in the footage. Your vid is so helpful on the sync issues. Are you using magic lantern? i love me eos m and i swear the raw footage is comparable to the highest that my gh5 can put out. great little camera

@@Sully365 yes to Magic Lantern! I used to hate using my eos-m for video until I got magic lantern (which was well after I had purchased a gh5). In my experience, the two have paired well together - probably due to the fact that I can shift the colors on the eosm any which way I'd like

@@khanceptbelal good stuff, i didn't realize how much better the M was when using a v60 card instead of a v30. it's not too hard to match up now. I'm really glad i found your channel

Here yo go kzfaq.info/get/bejne/raqoecyomNKcZ2Q.html

One of the things I really appreciate about the EOS m using Magic Lantern is that it forces you into an exercise of creative decision making. Every creative choice is acompanied with a compromise. But, you embrace the compromise because of the unprecedented control you get with magic lantern. First off, the a7s3/fx3 is a far superior camera compared to the m with magic lantern, hands down, no doubt about it. It's not even in the same league. But, what you learn about yourself and the decisions that you lean towards with the m will only make your footage on the a7s3 and other Superior cameras that much better. The idea of a clean image needs to be qualified because you can get clarity and certain things and not others. For example, 1080p 12 bit - there are several ways to approach this which will affect how the image is rendered. One idea is to go full sensor with. But you're not going to get a 1:1 pixel ratio - therefore the image will have a softer appearance. There's your compromise in that setup. You can get a 1:1 pixel ratio in 1080p 12 bit for a clean and sharp image, but you have to embrace the compromise of an additional 3x crop. This is just one combination of creative choice plus compromise scenarios. There are literally dozens more when using Canon eos m. The idea is to experiment with these creative choice plus compromise combinations to get a better understanding of what you like personally as well as discovering your own creative style. Take the above and add on to that the additional layer of lens choices and how that plays into crop factors as well as the use of speed boosters and whatnot

@@khanceptbelal Thank you for the lengthy reply! I was hoping to find something I could match with the a7siii color wise, and it looks like the work flow others are using but converting to slog 3 and using phantom luts will get me the closest. Seemed like the best budget option when I've already got thousands invested on another camera system. The a6000 just looks too awful to be the camera for our main shot, of my cohost and I.

I tried Dynamic zooming but I just didn't like it personally. I'd rather the field of view be constant - personal preference

@@khanceptbelal Then use static zoom, otherwise you're just guessing and risking black borders around the image. You can also use dynamic zoom with large "zooming speed" like 30s

@@AdrianEddy will experiment with it. Thanks for the tip

@@khanceptbelal not sure if you know but Adrian is the creator of GF 🫡

@@AdrianEddy Is it true? Are you really the developer behind gyroflow?

I noticed that. Haven't played around with a workflow that stabilizes first. Will do soon!

Of considered it. But one thing I have noticed is I actually use the ultra wide angle that I capture with my insta 360 or GoPro. The run cam footage from what I've seen online isn't something I would have want to cross cut with my M. However, I have no doubt the run cam would work as expected. The thing I'm unsure about though is the run cam battery life

Thanks for the kind words. Short answer- it depends. On the macro level with regards to choosing a brand at the sub $1,500 level between Sony, Panasonic, and Canon - if you want to take good photos AND videos, the Canon all day. However in the scope of just video, Sony and Panasonic produce the better image simply by virtue of log profiles which gives you more flexibility in post. But, if you're not looking to do any sort of post work then you can't go wrong with either the Canon R10 or R7. I just absolutely love the way the R10 feels in the hand. Just a heads up, although I've had the r10 for a little bit since it came out, I was borrowing it from a buddy of mine who was out of town in that time. I've recently handed it back to him but I still miss it.

@@khanceptbelal thank you Belal for taking your time to reply. Yes, I see what you mean. I am definitely the type of user that likes to colorgrade in post. I love the film look. Therefore, it sounds like Sony or Panasonic is the better fit. Again, thank you Belal. I really appreciate it.

@@cubax26 if I were in your shoes trying to figure out what would work best, I'd consider renting the cameras for a few days to a week at a time from lensrentals. The cameras on my short list would be: GH6, GH5S, R7, and FX30

@@khanceptbelal Belal, that is such a great idea! Renting before purchasing is the smart thing to do. I was not aware of lens rental. I will look them up. Thank you for the list of cameras I should be looking into. Your advice has been wonderful. Thank you Belal.

This case I'm using an insta360 one r

@@khanceptbelal Thanks! I am French and my English isn't perfect, couldn't understand everything you said :-)

@@arnauldbordes no worries. Let me know if there's anything further I can help clarify

@@khanceptbelal Thanks, it is ok. I just bought an EOS M with a Canon pancake 22mm, no IS, so footage is very shaky and I am looking for a way to stabilize the footage...

Yes. You just have to ensure that the Ibis is turned off

Sony does have this feature built into it but if you want to use a camera that's not Sony, the option is there now. The challenge with Sony is the internal noise reduction which at higher ISO makes the image look terrible in my opinion. If you want to bypass that by recording to an external recorder then you're back to pairing footage with gyro data recorded otherwise.

I showcase stabilizing a 200 mm lens here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNlmmbR2yK6bpmQ.html - let me know if this addresses your question

You'll have to see first if the action Camer in question is supported by gyroflow. You can see the list here: docs.gyroflow.xyz/app/getting-started/supported-cameras

Not after export.

I don't know. Haven't used resolve

You don't have to do it with the zve 10. The zv E10 and several other Sony cameras have gyro data built into it. So if you want it you could import whatever footage you shot either into Catalyst browse which is Sony's own software or Gyro flow and all of that IMU gyro data will be in the footage file already

@@khanceptbelal I have used catalyst browse and it’s an amazing app but I’m wondering if using a torpedo with gyro Dow would give me better results. Also I forgot to ask, using the GoPro as a logger, does it matter if hypersmooth is on? Or I need to disable it. Not sure if you mentioned this in the video. Thanks again for your help.

@@timgalletas3856 what's a torpedo? The perk of using gyro flow over Catalyst brows is that you get far more control over stabilization settings. The downside however is that if you are using a zoom lens, Catalyst browse will be able to adjust for the focal length settings automatically while in gyro flow you going to have to do it manually for every time you zoom in or out. But this is a non-issue when you're using a prime lens. With regards to whether or not it makes a difference with hypersmooth, I don't know. Definitely worth checking out in the future since a buddy of mine recently got the GoPro 11. Something to test out paired with the Panasonic s1h perhaps.

@@khanceptbelal my bad I meant to write a GoPro with gyroflow. Not sure where torpedo came from. Lol. You helped me a lot. I will try the GoPro with and without hypersmooth. I do like catalyst browse but noticed sometimes I get like some weird ghosting artifacts in the shadows especially at night with the clouds I have tried a shutter speed from 50 to 250 with same result. That’s why I was wondering if with Gyroflow was different but per your video recommendation, I will keep trying higher shutter speeds to see if that helps.

@@timgalletas3856 the ghosting artifacts in a low light setting with Sony cameras is less to do with stabilization and shutter speed combo and more to do with the internal noise reduction that you can't shut off. The only Sony cameras that I know of that allow you to turn off noise reduction while recording internally is the fx6 and fx9. For all other Sony cameras to bypass internal noise reduction you have to record via HDMI into an external recorder either into something like an atomos Ninja or wirelessly into some other device. It's for this reason why I prefer not to use Sony cameras with gyro stabilization in low light settings and will opt for my Canon instead since I have the ability to turn off the noise reduction.

Unfortunately, this method does not work with DJI action cameras. It has something to do with it baking the gyro data into the footage as opposed to it being its own metadata of sort. Result I've gotten work best with either a cell phone (Google pixel 6 pro), GoPro, or insta360. Easiest was when using the insta360.

@@khanceptbelal Ah ok! Luckily I got Gopro hero 7 to try it again! Thanks for the info :)

Did you select your lens/focal length?

@@khanceptbelal thanks! I solved this problem. For some reason my geo data was effected by language on my device. I changed it to US and everything started to work as it should