Great video!!

Great information!

Hi Jiggy a well done video, great information. I do, however, have a question on flash lighting. How do you know when a flash is needed with daylight or sundown?

Any color shift, color cast?

Hey i'm not sure but the audio isn't as good as it usually is in the other videos. Just a heads up kasi baka may na toggle sa settings niyo po,

Sorry but I have to challenge you on this. The law of physics doesn't change because you add an ND filter. Let's forget for now about global shutter, and focus on cameras that are used by human beings. Bright sunny day is at F16, ISO 100, 100th sec With sync speed at 1/200th, you gain only, and only one stop, hence F11. You add ND filter to go down to 1/200th, but your flash has to hit F11, with or without ND filter. Believe it or not but only AD200 and up can work the majority of my flash need at midday sun. You don't have to go outdoor to test it. Just turn off all of your light, except a modeling light and measure the amount of light your speedlight needs to hit F11. Whether you shoot with a lens at F1.2 or F5.6, that doesn't change anything. On my Ad200, using a 5 feet parabolic umbrella, 3 feet away from a manikin, I have to put it at full power to hit F11 Assume that you point directly that speedlight at the model, while you use a 35mm lens, that is when you can get F11. Sorry buty I don't shoot that way. Besides, you forgot to mention about what seasoned photographers value, these are recycle time and flash safety. I dare you, use your speedlight at full power, every 3sec at midday 100times everyday, and in a week, you will have to buy a new one. Global shutter is a different story. Here, you gain as many stops as you want because your sync speed is now 1/8000th of a second. But I still dare you, shoot at F5.6, say you shoot macro, that speedlight of yours will burn soon. Sony A9 III, does what it does for two reasons; high sync speed, and ISO 250. But if you shoot ISO 100 and F-stop F8, A9 III or not, you will burn your speedlight very soon. This is something that I bothers me with KZfaqrs; they assume that the entire planet do stuff like they do. Not everybody shoots at F1.4 .Many people still use F4-5.6 kit and zoom lenses, especially the ones with speedlights, and KZfaqrs do not emphasize the fact that the whole global shutter thing with a speedlight is for the rich with F1.4 lenses. Finally, not everybody turns daylight to night. When the flash and the daylight are at equal power, say 50% contribution, your model will have to be very stiff to avoid shake. 50% contribution is the most natural looking option, but requires a higher shutter speed, such as 1/800th sec or even higher for dynamic model. If someone shoots at F5.6, flash duration is too weak to fill up for the available light. Besides, 50% contribution allows you to keep rimlight and hairlight from the sun, but most of all; you can bring only one flash. If you kill that sun, you will need fillight and hairlight; hence more flashes. If you are ok to shoot at ISO 1000 at midday, then yes, you won't need enough flash power, and you can shoot at 1/3000th sec while at F5.6, and keeping natural look. Canon R1 is rumored to have Sync speed at 1/1250th sec. That is the optimal sync speed, my opinion. If the rumor is true, you keep all the advantages of non-global shutter, and you gain 2 stops and 2 thirds from your sync speed: at cloudy day and golden hour, you would not need HSS, and at mid-day sun, you would shoot with an AD200 at 1/8th or 1/16th power the whole day long at 1sec recycle time, safely. Remember, from the moment you add an ND filter, the flash has to fight the ND filter. With global shutter, ND filter will be useless. With high sync speed, such as the rumored R1, you will need only 2-3 stop of ND filter, and that is only at midday sun. Hope you see my point. You may or may not agree with it, challenge me please. Say hello to your beautiful wife, I envy, you have such a model available at all time.

ok sana . kung medyo budget friendly .. 😢