truth

How much for the TDI upgrades?

@@19keverick91 Usually around 1200€ for the drop in cams alone. But you will need all sorts of other complementary upgrades for the cams to fill their potential. Intake and exhaust manifolds. Each manifold ranging from 500€ to 1000€ No idea how much costs the new oil pump lately. And a good ECU tune at the end would be around 500€? But never ask your engine for more power if it's got some mileage under it's belt, first it should be taken and have it undergo general repairs. So the internals are in top notch shape once you ask them for more power = more stress. Overall, it is quite expensive. It's only for those who enjoy getting more power from NA engines and better yet, if they can afford it :D

@@smokeguru4107 k20 with 220.000km, your opinion, what should be rebuild/engine refreshment before upgrades?

​@@SasaDraskovic Depends, is it burning oil? If it's burning oil, then pretty much complete general repair. Sleeves, pistons, crankshaft(?). Check Camshaft for lobe damage. At this point I'd say a repair like this or keep it before you do it. Right now it will run well. It will still work, when you take it apart without replacing almost everything, once you take it apart, it won't fit the same when it's put back and it will make everything worse. If it's not burning oil and doesn't have any serious issues developed, I'd suggest not touching it. Unless you really want to do something with it. Then just whole rebuild. Cost might be around 10 000 dollars or something, but at that point the engine will last another 250 000 km. Maybe even more, as any maintenance can be done by you and proper. Just make sure the chasis is in good shape too ^^

not only brembo , torsion rear suspension when the rest of the world got the independent rear suspension

@@javali6027 Driving my FD7 trough german autobahns and else on the limit since 1 1/2 years...in fast corners it does make a difference, the rear is just gliding trough :D I know 140 HP ain´t much, but it still rocks and it´s a rarety in germany, only the hybrid was available here, hope I can realize my K20Z4 swap asap

I think it's because fd2 doesn't meet euro emission standard?

@@sovan781 Torsion bar is because the 8th gen Civic hatch is (half) a Honda Jazz, that's pretty fundamental to the car and floor pan compared to other 8th gen Civics! "Why they didn't give it the K20A from the FD2 is still a mistery" Emissions, no 100 RON fuel in the UK, reducing cost to build etc. At least it got the newer parts like the RSP cylinder head & FD2 gear ratios & lightweight flywheel which the 8th gen Civic Si in North America did not get (the Civic Si still had the older cylinder head that flows less, the old gear ratios, the old heavier flywheel; it has the same non-Brembo brakes too). [Of course the Si has independent rear suspension if that's important to you, but conversely less interior space with the seats folded down compared to the Honda Jazz platform which is incredibly spacious.] The oil pump with balance shafts is bespoke to slightly increase refinement to suit the FN2's position of being targeted more to middle-aged buyers (as well as the RSP intake manifold with longer runners for more torque, and even the interior being a more discreet maroon compared to bright red in the JDM car). Not to say the FN2 Type R won over *every* prospective middle-aged Mk5 Golf GTI buyer, but certainly it may have won over *more* than the EP3 could have (and more GTI buyers than the FD2 Type R with rock hard suspension, no sound insulation, no cruise control, and a bright red interior could have)?

Me too bro! I love my FN2. Last mohicane 😏

I’m thinking of getting one.

They could not meet rainbow transgender green agenda emission for European market this is why the age of NA is over.

FD2 & FN2 gear and diff ratios are exactly the same? You mean using DC5 4-5-6 gears? They'll be shorter because originally the final drive ratio was taller on the DC5 compared to the FD2 & FN2. The OE flywheel is only 5kg already (it's the same as the FD2 flywheel), I don't think you'll get a big benefit by going to the aftermarket Exedy/Toda 4kg flywheel (it's the same flywheel as the OEM lightweight FN2/FD2 flywheel, just with more holes in it as far as I can tell!).

@@TassieLorenzoI’m on a rpc 3.51kg lightweight fly wheel in my fn2

Thanks, Benedict. Really appreciate the kind words.

@@noahdam8532 not yet… probably going to get an RRC inlet manifold now

True! LSD/4-2-1/HONDATA.

@@HondaK20 agreed...just did mine mfactory racepack 1 LSD

put the RRC intake on it ...and you will net another 10 BHP

@@lexzenis2544 better put RBC, RRC need piston FD2 to works better

@@lexzenis2544 I don't think the RSP manifold is that bad. The Spoon FN2 still had the RSP manifold on it. There's less top-end potential but more mid-range potential with the RSP than the RRC manifold I believe, especially on K24 engines that could potentially benefit from the RSP's longer runners in the mid-range rpm band. If you referring to the plot by Kowalski, the RRC gained 10hp over RSP above 7500rpm (and therefore 10hp peak as well) *BUT* it lost 10hp at 6000rpm and lost 5hp at 5000rpm while the two were pretty much the same everywhere else up to 7500rpm, so it's not completely a free lunch in favour of the RRC -- the RSP comes with longer runners for a reason after all. By all means, gaining 10hp from 7000rpm to 8600rpm is good, but it's nowhere near as clear cut of an improvement as gaining 10hp all the way from 5000rpm to 8600rpm as your comment seems to imply the RRP does (indeed you *lose* some from 4600-6600rpm instead, while 6600-7000rpm is pretty much no difference)! It's not like the car's ratios are so close you can avoid dropping below 7000rpm, after all. The advantage too of the RSP is that is "free" as it comes with the car, so you could always port it or shorten the runners. I think the RSP could be a particularly good manifold for K24s IMO, but it's not common in North America so that hasn't been explored that much.

@@TassieLorenzo great info there , appreciate that... perhaps the tuning is the all important net of the power. Ive been watching dynodaze tuners in UK. They have had tremendous success at getting HP increases from 4200rpm all the way to redline which was why i made my statement . there are no trade offs. just gains . pls see the dynograph results at the end of these three vids from them with the addition to different k20 Fn2s starting with...... (search in youtube ) You need to See these Results! My own FN2 Gets RRC inlet manifold. ( graph at 10:47) LISTEN TO THIS! Honda Civic Ep3 TypeR Tuned after RRC inlet Manifold ( graph at 6:05) Honda Civic Fn2 TypeR New Chain RRC Inlet Manifold and Map with Ecutek (graph at 9:14)

@@TassieLorenzo great info there , appreciate that... perhaps the tuning is the all important net of the power. Ive been watching dynodaze tuners in UK. They have had tremendous success at getting HP increases from 4200rpm all the way to redline which was why i made my statement . pls see the dynograph results at the end of these three vids from them with the addition to different k20 Fn2s starting with...... search in youtube ) You need to See these Results! My own FN2 Gets RRC inlet manifold. ( graph at 10:47) LISTEN TO THIS! Honda Civic Ep3 TypeR Tuned after RRC inlet Manifold ( graph at 6.05) Honda Civic Fn2 TypeR New Chain RRC Inlet Manifold and Map with Ecutek (graph at 9.14)

Yet everyone loves Renault Sport cars with their torsion beam rear suspension..

Forget that it says 'Type R' and consider it a 'Type S' model. It's not a track car. It has some sound insulation where the FD2 & DC5 have no sound insulation, it has cruise control, et cetera et cetera. Hopefully that makes it make more sense. It was positioned as more of a Golf GTI rival to try to sell to middle-aged buyers and it was pretty successful at that, not to mention setting the tone for more modern Type Rs like the FK2 and FL5 that merged the English and Japanese product lines and retain the "luxury" amenities to this day. [The LSD version of the FN2 is certainly much better at power down, but it's not like the European-spec EP3 had an LSD as standard either. That was about keeping the price/cost down.] Here in Australia we had a detuned DC5 Integra Type R, which was a Integra Type S/RSX Type S engine, suspension and brakes, but with LSD gearbox and Type R exterior and Type R interior (the part numbers for all the exterior and interior bits are exactly the same as JDM Type R so does that make it a "real" Type R? but the parts numbers for the mechanical bits are mostly the same as RSX Type S, so does that make it not a "real" Type R?). "Type R" is Honda's brand they can do what they like in terms of mixing and matching parts I guess. 🙂 For the complaints, many of the parts like the front seats (apart from the colour), the engine block, head, crank, conrods, timing system (apart from the cams, pistons, oil pump & sump), shifter/gearbox/LSD/flywheel/clutch etc etc, are exactly the same between FD2 and FN2 after all.

@@TassieLorenzowith some mods you can achieve mugen20 performance and more than that. Without lsd it isnt type R, and rear sway oem is 0 mm. It transforms handling. For me Fn2 is cheap platform to make fd2 tracktimes if modded properly(4+pot brakes, big rotors, suspension, sways, lsd, breathing and engine mods). Mugen version had better track times than standard fd2 type R. For me it is enough.

@@SasaDraskovic That's all true! The FN2 is still a very good platform! Once you do FD2 oil pump and aftermarket drop-in cams (and all the other stuff intake/headers), the only difference at all in the engine is the compression of the pistons by 0.7 points which is not a big deal. 🙂 The chassis, as you imply, is more than capable -- it was raced by JAS as a rallycar and by Team Dynamics as a Super 2000 touring car.