▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ Miter saw holding stick: lddy.no/1ir6y *The BEST blades I have ever used are from Ridge Carbide. These are the three I think every shop should have:* - Ridge Carbide 40-tooth table saw combo blade- (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-super-blade.html - Ridge Carbide 80-tooth table saw OR miter saw crosscut/plywood blade (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/miter-radial-saw-blades/products/10-x-80-ar-4-1-5-hk-087-115-rs1000-super-miter - Ridge Carbide 24-tooth table saw rip blade (use discount code SNWJ10): ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-full-kerf-rip-super-blade.html *My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/ *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★ - #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

Regarding #4: Never cut a piece that is not long enough to fit between the gap between the fences. When you need to cut a short piece, create an auxiliary fence by putting a board that is wide enough to span the gap between the fences behind the work to be cut. If your work is narrow enough, you can use the backup piece repeatedly without cutting through it.

I agree to all. I’ll use a sacrificial piece long enough to more than bridge the gap. Wide enough not to cut all the way through and thus have an issue with two pieces going askew or flying around. But that hold down tool is cool.

Really great tips, especially love the first one to measure more accurately. That reminds me of something my grandpa would’ve told me back in the day.

As far as the small piece that doesn’t bridge the gap, I do use the fork stick, but I also put a longer sacrificial backing piece behind the short piece to support it all the way across the gap. Very safe.

I got one of the Million Dollar sticks when you showed it a few months ago. Tip #1 about how old timers set the kerf so they have a reference point for measuring where to put the stop is just an amazing tip and I plan to start using it tomorrow!

All great tips. With regards the 2nd, I'm often cutting larger prefinished solid pieces that have a tendency to chip or splinter if I use the way you show. What I do instead is I score the material with a light forward pull, and finish the cut the proper way.

Stumpy, you suggested the Miter Saw Holding Stick in one of your videos a couple of years ago. I think it was called the Million Dollar stick or something like that. I ordered that day. Don’t think it was from Amazon. After using it one time, I never risk my fingers again. It is the best safety device in my shop. Glad you mentioned it again. Hope everyone pays attention.

Always appreciate your videos and especially your humor. I rewatch the old videos with you and Mustache Mike often when I need a good laugh. Always good information

I absolutely love my holding stick! I got a scare this year from cutting into (not through, thank God!) my fingertip on my table saw, and it made me examine my safety equipment and practices. A featherboard for the table saw and a holding stick for the miter saw are the best investments I have made in my shop.

One tip that I haven't seen on KZfaq I have used quite often. This will work only on a relatively narrow board- maybe 1 x 4 or so. If you are fitting a board inside a fixed space and it is very slightly too long try this. With the saw comletely stopped and lowered, place the board against the blade but not on the carbide teeth. Raise the blade, strart the saw, and make the cut. You will cut only a few thou off the end of the board.

Thanks, James. Another safe way to cut small pieces on a miter saw is to make a zero-clearance sled plus using a hold-down device to keep your fingers out of the way. I’ve made such a sled (was it you or Colin Knecht?) and it even makes me feel safer when it is installed. No little pieces flying around or down the gullet of the throat plate, and because of the back fence there is no place for the off-cut or the good piece to get dragged behind the blade or fence.

I have been in the business for 40+ years. I still get good info from your videos. Stuff I have not thought of. I now buy Ridge Carbide blades exclusively. Run-out is superior. Cut is excellent when using the right blade for the task.

Thank you - I'm 65 with 40+ years carpentry - you still taught me something new.

Tip no. 1 is very good. Nos 2&3 I already knew, and I agree with Roger Hodges' comments below regarding No 4. An excellent vid though and admirably concise; so many vids with lists of things are spoilt by interminable preamble. This one gets down to business straight away.

Another thing you can do and I always have. You can see @5:28, the slotted holes in the fence, they are used to put a sacrificial fence on. I put a solid piece of baltic birch plywood across my fence, put screws in those slotted holes from the back (making sure they don't poke thru the front) and then just make a cut thru it. Now you have a zero clearance fence. Gives you cleaner cuts and it's way safer to cut smaller pieces, if you must, but I would also recommend using that holding stick as well. If you need them off for a reason, its only to short screws on each side.

Thank You for your tips. I really enjoy them. I also have two suggestions. One: allow the saw to come to a complete stop before lifting so any scrap end on the right won't be thrown. Two: when cutting small pieces, cut another piece first to make a zero clearance backing. Thank You again

Even though I have seen many safety videos, watching another one is worth it. Repetition is something that many companies promote in their safety programs.

I bought a Million Dollar Stick after watching your previous video about it and makes tricky cuts safe - I've learnt a lot from your channel but this this was a tool I wasn't aware of so many thanks for that 🙂 I often use kerfing cuts without actually thinking about it and I always swap blades when say swapping from rougher framing to finer trim work.

That first tip blew me away... great idea

For the small piece, a “0 clearance auxiliary fence is a great addition to the hold down.

The 10M Dollar Stick is a safety tool no woodworker should be without. I have 1 and have purchased several for friends as well. I still work as a Paramedic, and I can tell you from terrible experience how saws and fingers do not get along well. Fingers ALWAYS lose! And the victim is always a woodworker with years of experience.

Love the safety tips. Questions for J.H.: Why don’t you have a zero-clearance backer on your miter saw? Wouldn’t that help with small pieces falling in the gap? It should also help with tear-out on the backside. One can add a zero-clearance insert as well.

All excellent suggestions. Your videos are appreciated, even though my miter saw remains virtually unused; by far the least used tool in my shop.

My Bosch manual clearly describes your tip #2. That doesn't mean anyone will follow it, but I do.

This video made me happy as the 10 Million Stick was a stocking stuffer for me this year. I had literally just received it in the morning. I don't remember where I saw the 10 Million Stick first, but it was probably here, and I'm glad to finally have one!

I bought one of those 10 million dollar sticks about this time last year when you talked about it. IMHO you can't mention that tip too much. The radial arm saw tip is pure gold. Thanks!

Thanks Stumpy. One of your best videos ever. I have the same miter saw.

Your videos are invaluable and my fingers thank you.

Safety is always important, especially the Ten Million Dollar Stick, which I use all the time. Keep 'em coming!

As always, I appreciate all your videos because I think they are made with the intention of expanding my knowledge and helping me keep all my fingers

Excellent tips! Thanks for sharing (and caring).😌

This might be the most useful tips video I have seen…..and you’ve done some good ones! Thank you.

One of the best vids yet, Stump. #1 rule for miter saws is at 3:11. I was amazed at the results when I replaced the stock blade on my saw.

I didn't know i should clean my table saw blades, worked great. Thanks for saving me money!

Thanks for the safety reminders and tip on positioning stop blocks.

Cutting from the front of the board to the back increases the ability of your chop saws dust collection boot to effectively pull the sawdust into the vacuum (assuming you have a vacuum attached to the chopsaw) because it more easily directs the sawdust from the cut up towards the dust collection boot. I do this on short boards and haven't had a problem with splintering. On boards longer than a couple of inches, I make a shallow cut the length of the board by pulling the saw from back to front starting about an inch into the board, thus creating a kerf channel for the dust to be pushed up towards the dust boot. Then I push the saw back in the kerf. If the board is thick I make several shallow cut to use the kerf channel to direct the sawdust into the dust boot. I make my final cut from the front of the board to the back. I hope my instructions made sense because it really does decrease the amount of random sawdust going everywhere, but your chop saw has to be tuned up to create a perfect perpendicular cut to the fence. Try it, you'll see.

Excellent knowledge about the sliding miter saw cut direction! I'll definitely pass that info along.

Thank you for the safety tips. I believe hearing old and new safety ideas will always remind you how vulnerable we are around machines, who have no feelings. I'm glad I watched your safety video today because I had forgotten the name of that hold-down stick and the discount code on my new favorite blades.

I do agree with you, but in the UK they are regarded as Chop and Draw

Thanks. Ordered the push stick and the first tip was gold.

Thanks for the safety tips! Per your link, just purchased that 3rd hand small parts holder. Ive been often finding myself putting too much risk on my little body members, and this will make it so much more safe!

Got myself a $10 Million Stick and I absolutely am sold on it. Before I got it I did a few sketchy (at best) cuts--now when I do cut small pieces my nerves and fingers are at a bit more of an ease. Was just at the FastCap warehouse two days ago and they have them in stock. When I initially looked for them a few months back they were out for a few weeks. James, again thank you for teaching us about safety... I'm new to this craft and very much appreciate your teaching style.

Great tips. I also use the Ridge Carbide thanks to your recommendation, best blades I've ever used.

Awesome info as always. Thanks James...never stop learning on this channel!

Great tips and well appreciated. I have two of the holding sticks. They are invaluable. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

Nice tips as always! I've been using the Fastcap stick on the mitre and tablesaw for years now and, yep, it's a great and easy to use holddown.

Thanks for the tips.....really beneficial!

thanks for information and with all your videos its good to have these safty reminders to prevent problems before they happen and clue me in on what could happen.

The first tip is a great tip that I have never come across before that I will use. All the others I practice as a habit. I remember when I done woodwork at school (many years ago) the woodwork teacher used to say "Keep your workpiece as long as possible as long as possible" which amonst other reasons is also a good safety tip.

Really thoughtful and important post.

Miter saw holding stick!!! I can't tell you how many times something bad almost happen trying to cut small pieces. I have tried all kind of techniques. These should come bundled w/ miter saws.

It still amazes me that we still hold lumber with our hands on these machines. Here we have had saws for almost a hundred years and they are still making them like they used to!

All are excellent tips. Didn't know about the holding stick.

Wow, measuring from the kerf is a great idea! Thanks for sharing.

I set the depth stop to cut about ¼ inch deep on a kerf cut, but do the kerfcut on the pull. I then cut on the push full depth after flipping the stop up. This method virtually eliminates chip-out and it is more stable and controllable

All great suggestions. Thank you for sharing these safety tips. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

thanks for the tips. I recieved the hold down stick as a gift about a year ago. I think it's the best gift a woodworker can recieve.

Best tips I’ve ever seen thank you

Great tips. I think that the first one will save me hours and give far better results for a big project that I have planned for our beach hut in the new year.

Great tips! Ordered a stick.

Nothing but good ideas coming from you. Thank you.

Love the first to eliminate kerf width issues, plus good safety tips as well

All good tips! Thanks a bunch!

Oh that first tip! Nice. Thanks James! Thumbs up.

I purchased one of those miter saws sticks about a year ago....after watching one of your videos about it.

Great vid, Stumpy. I believe that the push cut is already in the instruction manuals for SCMS. If not, it should be. One safety tip to add is to always make sure the workpiece is tight against the fence, and no offcuts are anywhere nearby. I was sloppy one time, the blade grabbed an offcut, slammed it violently against my thumb, which hurt like he77. Nail turned black & i throbbed for hours. I found out later that it actually bent the fence (no replacement part available) and bent my 12" 80-tooth Forrest blade. That was a painful and expensive lesson!!! The video thumbnail is what makes me share this.

Excellent tips & suggestions SN! Happy Holidays to you & your family! 👍👍🌲🌲

Good video as usual. On the last tip about small pieces -- if your piece is that short, holding-down stick or not, just don't do it. Miter saws are just not intended for that. Use a bandsaw, use a tablesaw with a sled and clamp - but using a miter saw to cut tiny pieces is just craziness.

Such good tips. I'm pretty sure I learned the kerfing technique from watching you years ago when I started in woodworking. Had one scary cut and then I've just always done it ever since. All of my cuts are clean and scare-free. Thanks for providing such great information.

Great tips James! I love my ten million dollar stick and I couldn't agree more that it is the best safety device for cutting small parts on the miter saw! The kerf tip was cool and yes they should all be in the manuals!

I have been using Radial Arm Saws for over 60 years and I have just learned a safer way here. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks a bunch for all the tips, James! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy holidays!

All great tips. I have the holding stick. It's great.🙂🙂

all great tips, especially your last one. I haven't seen that doohickey, but i often use a scrap piece of longer wood to apply the downward pressure while cutting small pieces.

Appreciate this and all your videos. I would suggest a small auxiliary fence made of two pieces of 1x and clamped to the miter saw fence as another or augmented approach to #4. Keep up the great work.

I guess you could call me a blade snob. My blades of choice is made by FS Tool. Now I've got to try a Ridge Carbide. Now allow me to share a hidden secret with you. There is a small family company in Canton Ohio called Cammel Saw. They sharpen anything that can be sharpened. They are hands down the best at what they do. I've come to appreciate them so much, that I won't even use a brand new blade without them putting their edge on it first. If you want the BEST potential out of any one of your blades, give them a try.

Great video. I agree w/ all 4 points. Sure wish that manufacturers would add a simple paragraph & picture / graphic about the best technique for cutting using the sliding feature. I learned this by watching more experienced woodworkers. It would been nice to have this explained up front. I’m also a fan of the hold down stick. I’ve found that they’re tough, yet flexible, and do a perfect job holding on to the small piece. They’re also very inexpensive. Much cheaper than a new index finger & thumb!

I picked up the hold down stick from a previous video of yours and just a couple weeks ago had my saw pull a small piece out from under the stick it and fling it away. I'm really glad I wasn't holding it with my hand or I wouldn't be typing right now. Thanks for the tips!

I bought the safely hold down device a couple of years ago. Worth every penny.

When I am cutting a small piece of lumber, I tape it to a longer sacrificial piece of 1/4" plywood of similar width, and cut both at the same time. Has always worked well for me.

About "Climb Cuts" - - These are only dangerous if the operator is careless or doesn't know the equipment. Manuals for Radial Arm Saws even give instructions about resisting climb, etc. Operator must learn the feel of the cut. Practice ! Pull-cut is cleanest way for face-up. Pull-cut forces material down & back to fence - better way & more secure. Pay attention & Practice, as with any other machine. Appreciate the great videos.

Thank you for your great insight and straight to the point advise, I appreciate such things.

I got one of those miter saw hold-down sticks and it’s great. I also use it when drilling small parts on the drill press. It saves me time from getting a bunch of clamps out and keeps my fingers away from spinning metal.

I have been using Ridge Carbide blades for years. They are one of the finest blades out there and I have tried a lot of different blades.

Fastcap is great. I ordered one of the holding sticks in this video after seeing Stumpy show it off in a previous vid. It came missing one of the little rubber feet and Fastcap priority mailed me a whole new set of them for free, and didn't ask me to go through any of the hassle a lot of companies will for replacement parts.

All good tips. I especially like #3 as I cut large stock at work and have seen the binding problem I’d kerf cut Is not used. Thx for the reminders.

Thanks for saving me... I stopped cutting small pieces with my miter saw because even with my safety gear I have come to close to losing a finger or an eye to small pieces flying away. I'll be testing the stick as soon as it arrives!!!!

I have used the first tip for several years ever since my Dad gave it to me about 40 years ago with my radial arm saw. Don't have a sliding miter saw but wish I still had my old radial arm saw. I agree that all of these should be in any radial arm saw manual Great video...

Got the stick. Great tool.

Bought a Ridge Carbide at a woodwork show long long ago. Great blade. FS Tool right up there as well. Tip to improve the stop block, shamfer the bottom and back edge to compensate for splinters and sawdust.

Very helpful tips !!

I thought the tip about cutting a slot in a scrap of wood for measuring was brilliant and so simple Thank you Regards Chris UK

Great tips. The first one is so simple it's a "Why didn't I think of that" kind of tip. I also can't tell you how many popular woodworking channels I have seen doing climb cuts with the sliding miter saw. I think the main reason is dust collection. Since there's a gap at the kerf the dust doesn't get blown back as much.

For #2 my saw has a holder to make sure the piece does not lift. I suggest adding such a holder if you don’t have one. It not only holds it down, but holds it to a measurement as well. #4 is great! I have had small pieces of trim go flying and done that nervous count to five after. I have a shop made tool to hold small pieces, but will be ordering that product ASAP because my solution is still a bit sketchy sometimes. This is my most uncomfortable operation on the miter saw and I often just pull out a handsaw in these cases just to avoid the inevitable. Thanks for that tip and product link!

Great video James. I bought one of the hold downs the last time you showed it and it works brilliantly. Take care James. Cheers, Huw

A+ on the miter saw holding stick.

Great tips as always. Thanks!

Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and especially safety tips like these. These are all really great tips. Now all I have to do is remember them! 🙂 Thank you for all you do for the woodworking community!

When necessity demands small piece cuts, I'll place a long scrap piece against the fence, the place the smaller piece in front, it will have full support. I also use the hold down stick cuz I have an affinity for my fingers. The scrap piece is wide enough to not be cut all the way through when the small piece is cut. I have four miter saws and ten digits along with forty years experience. Never get complacent, it'll fix stupid very quickly.