Yes that's used for glass fibre reinforced concrete projects like countertops and cool things. One I saw was a thin sheet that had a wide radius 90 degree bend in it so the same sheet started as one leg of a desk and became the top surface of it too.

The channel 'Modustrial Maker' does a lot of concrete moulded stuff and that's exactly his process.

Normal fibreglass (glass reinforced plastic) is made this way, a layer called gelcoat is applied to the mould surface before the rest of the bulk material is applied. This leaves a glossy outside face when it is removed from the mould

What are they called? Would love to read some

@@fnytnqsladcgqlefzcqxlzlcgj9220 "Hobby Hifi" and Klang und Ton" are the usual two suspects.

@@fnytnqsladcgqlefzcqxlzlcgj9220 One is "Hobby HiFi" lead by acoustical engineer Bernd Timmermanns and another is "Klang+Ton" from a publishing group which does a lot of HiFi related things.

Isn't that something the Brits also do quite a lot?

@@fnytnqsladcgqlefzcqxlzlcgj9220 A lot of this has moved to online media now: google "lautsprecher selbstbau"

A concrete agitator would have prevented that, I would not have even thought about it had I not seen it on another channel recently.

I was thinking Bondo. Would that work?

@@groggynod Evan and Katelyn recently tested a vibrating pen for that use, worked surprisingly well.

How about one of those massage guns? That'd probably get enough vibration to settle/get bubbles out

That's the plan (and the reason I haven't torn down the prototype yet ;-)

oh an vibration would have solved your surface imperfections 🙂

Thanks! Directly 3D printing the shape would have taken way too much filament to make it work as an enclosure, so I think making molds is a great good middle ground. The amp I used is from Aliexpress, I specifically chose it because has its own 110/230V power supply built in in a way that won't introduce additional noise due to grounding issues etc. You can find it here: go.toms3d.org/1kwAMP

😂👍

There are actually a couple of "adhesive" steps in this project: - Gluing the individual printed mold pieces together: Construction adhesive, as it sticks well to PLA and is gap-filling - Topcoat to smooth out the layer lines (1): "Acrylic modelling paste" (this didn't work well) - Topcoat to smooth out the layer lines (2): Brushed on UV printer resin, cured with a UV LED (this worked well) - Gluing the molded plaster pieces: Construction adhesive, again mostly for its gap-filling properties Hope this answered your question!

I did not, because I did like the texture it gets when if the fibers poke through the surface

mdf, nasty stuff to machine, need high power exhaust fans then you blow all that carcinogen powder all over your neighbours

The advice about the MDF and speakers is concerned about building the case. Changing the little bit of OSB to MDF in this build would do very little, if anything, to the sound quality, especially as it not involved in producing the sound.

@@capitalinventor4823 that makes sense, also holy hell the typos in my original message.

Simple construction adhesive!

There was an old Visaton paper from like 1986 or so that i can no longer find evaluating speaker materials, and yes MDF comes out on top... for the convenience in manufacturing and the price, beating any other wood product by like a lot, though if you had to, you could just use dense wood or plywood and a lot more thickness of it and you'd be fine. Concrete has also been deemed to perform admirably, as was uhhh i think obsidian-bitumen sandwich, but they were deemed not a reasonable way to actually build things that you have to ship and that have to deliver the sound down to a price. The paper was really comprehensive. If you can find, please holler. Plaster shrinks though doesn't it when curing? That can be quite an ordeal to inner-plaster huge parts like these. You have to do it in layers letting every layer cure before the next one, so that the next one can void-fill, or you'll have walls lined with thin but pesky hollows which can start flapping about and making annoying noises when subject to an acoustic load.

@SianaGearz the exothermic reaction of curing could cause issues but if accounted for in the design of the panels possibly. I would wonder if small voids would matter as the plaster should bond to the inner surfaces of the panel ideally. We shouldn't be using a mold release agent but who knows the adhesion strength of plaster to petg or abs? Much to ponder and experiment with I think :)

I did run some simulations, and often end up with somewhat unconventional designs that would be quite lame without heavy DSP assistance. Optimizing for maximum SPL / minimum distortion and good low frequency capabilities, while also sticking with affordable components usually means relatively small drivers (10" GRS 10SW-4 in this case) in relatively large enclosures (60l) with low port tunes (IIRC this one boosts at around 22Hz). However, designing them like this means the speakers end up with relatively poor impulse response, especially once you add the high-gain FIR filters in the DSP to pull the frequency response flat. Always wanted to try IIR filters for that, but now the subwoofer works well as a classic "low frequency effects" / LFE channel.

The driver is actually mounted from the outside - while the OSB is mounted non-removable from the inside, the driver itself slots in from below.

Thanks! It's an Aliexpress "AIYIMA" amp which is actually quite good! go.toms3d.org/1kwAMP

I have considered that option, but with how these parts were designed and optimized, adaptive layers usually ended up being quite similar in output and print times to just printing at a lower layer height for the entire print.

The mix I ended up using was 8 parts plaster, 3 parts sand, 3 parts shredded hemp fiber. This is a little less "filler" than the initial tests, which made the mix a little bit stronger and overall less chunky.

changed again in Almost none of my prints for this project ended up in the final product!

And even before this title was "Almost none of my prints for this project ended up in the final product!"

They change the titles to get more exposure on the YT algorithm.

The chassis is the entry point here. I intentionally mounted it so that it would be able to pop out the bottom of the enclosure, and made sure to angle the amplifier board up so that it would be accessible through that hole. So while not super convenient to access, I did give myself a bit of a chance to repair it should things go bad.