but seeing the editor's rants is hilarious

@@crayfish9966 Totally this ^^ Also wanna Smell the Kenosha early enough :D

My sanity is in pieces... we may never recover...

tbh the chat encuragement is a minor risk

The same thing happened on a line near me. A train with 2 small diesels broke down, 1 out of 2 died, the engineer put on the automatic and independent on the front loco and only the independent on the other. Later around 3 am a spare loco came and coupled up to the front, the engineer put off the brakes in the front loco but not the back one so he ran 80km before he noticed the loco was flatspotting. I think that loco got flatspots around 3cm long on all wheels around the entire wheels of them.

I see what you did there~

We’ve only ever got one rule, never ever let it cool.

I was going to say the same thing!😂

Which is so easy now... when you could still kick in the reverser and give it all the beanz to help braking, that was the moment where you really wanted to stay on top of your transmission temps. I genuinely wonder if there's an actual technical limitation that this change was based on.

and i thinkfully do this :P i also tend to run spicy runs that cause me to change from breacking to not QUICK

​@@CakePrincessCelestiaI believe due to the way the torque converters work, overheating the "oil" is more like overheating the silicone sludge between the transmission components. Doing that causes it to turn runny, which is the exact opposite of what you want for it to work, and will wear it out right quick.

It is really nice to manual service the locomotives, one time it would have cost me 35 grand just to repair it normally but with manual service it went down to 17 grand , so I do highly recommend manual service

Would love to see the DM3 being money$hifted and Hyce LHAO. To be fair, if you don't do the heaviest trains with it, there pretty much is a shortcut pattern or two. 1) Just slam the left one forward and forget about it. Just use the right one. 2) If you're heavier loaded or less patient, start by advancing the left one only first and then go to 1) This is basically gears 1 - 3 - 5 - 7 - 8 Alternatively: Move the right one to the middle position and work the left one and put the right one forward last when applicable And this would be gears 1 - 2 - 4 - 6 - 8 Other than that there's just two things to be wary of: 1) If you want to coast, put both forward. Lower gears will slow you down, because there's no clutch 2) Never shift down at 40% or higher rpm. If you still happen to do, don't shift back up. If you heed this, you can actually leave the throttle in and shift, especially when using the jake brake for slowing down (works best with just a bunch of flat cars or no cars at all)

oh yeah, it is cheaper to manual service.... but servicing those 4 engines would have cost very close to the 76k (i think it would have actually cost more) + having to deal with finding parking for each individual engine and then going to service the next one.... anything that remained would have been more of a convenience fee

Squirrel has a good tutorial on how the whole DM3 works. It is quite hard to get a grip on but you get used to it I guess.

I always gernade the dm3 gearbox

And doing it surprisingly fast.

It’s Hyce, man is a danger to any and all locomotives in a given area

Our friend Mr Hyce is very talented.

The first and so far only time I blew up a DH4 was because i was sunning the remote controller on the dash on my way to MB, and when I exited a tunnel, the controller was thrown back into (literally) the engine, locking the throttle wide open and the brakes fully on. In hind sight, I should've hit the fuel cutoff.

The cynic in me thinks it's because a run where nothing happens is boring and doesn't get views, so content creators crank the throttle up to 11, never look where they're going and ignore all the signs, so they can act surprised when things go south. At least with Hyce it appears to happen quite naturally and together with the narration it's highly entertaining. There are some KZfaqrs that are just dumb as rocks (or are very good at pretending) so I can't stand more than half an episode, whereas I'm watching all of Hyce's (DV) episodes.

how funny do the derails get for that

Depends on where you do it. I've managed to derail the thing on a 40 speed limit by going... fast, there's no speedo on it so I don't know exactly. But I can imangine careeining off a bridge somewhere. Also the brakes are terrible on it so I can also imagine ramming a consist at a unreasonable speeds.

@@TheReminblacknow this is something i do know well as holy crap did it run the moutian run to steel in record time

A collateralized debt obligation (CDO) is a complex structured finance product that is backed by a pool of loans and other assets and sold to institutional investors. Thanks for paying the fees and fines 'investors'

Woohoo 🎉

Or it's Hyce's title as chief destruction officer. @@cliff4377

I'm going to remember that...

Out of all the engines excluding steam, I find that the DH4 is one of my favourites. Even though it is not as powerful as the DH6 or anything like that it's a solid engine and I actually like the sounds of it due to the hydraulic system it has. It's just a nice, reliable and easy to use engine.

The thing that really sucks about that one is that you can't drop stuff in the cabin without having it yeeted to the back side, most often even outside the whole thing when entering tunnels. Makes it rather tedious in VR since you're better of putting stuff on the table there since you don't hotswap with the number keys, but rather want to have the stuff right there to have a glance at, like the map(s) and ready to grab, like the remote thing or that other remote thing (pun intended). It sucks, however, having to collect half of that stuff from the lnf constantly because of that bug making stuff getting dropped somewhere in the tracks... XD

@@CakePrincessCelestia I exclusively play in VR but haven't experienced this issue.

You mean the Car alarm?

@@jaredstafford3354 yup!

That is classic tunnel vision (use train brake to control the speed). That is how real accidents happens and that is how people just start hate their jobs or partners because they can only see one thing and every things else becomes invisible.

So true. Forgetting it is one thing. Not seeing it like 69 times whenever operating the automatic is just pure comedy gold!

Yup! The krauss maffeis. Wacky things.

Happy to hear I got it right. :D

@@zeibach9075 Nice! BTW is there an actual reason we can't throw it in reverse anymore past 8kph? Was a great way to brake the thing, especially when shunting. I'm simply just interested in the details. If it's more realistic now, that's fine.

@@CakePrincessCelestia More realistic. In real life it would completely destroy the gearbox to switch while moving. Just like any automatic gearbox car. Except there's no electronic protection, so the knob is just jammed.

@@CakePrincessCelestia From a realism standpoint, the reverser is actual gears that have to mesh together. This is not something that's practical to do when the gears are moving at dramatically different speeds. In contrast, on an electric drivetrain the only physical components that move when adjusting the reverser is electrical connections in relays.

Lmao

Choochoo! Why! Are! You! SLEEPING?!?!

DARLA!

Never mind that, how are they still in business, if they're covering the ES&D and it's sibling companies with those tiny premiums?

How many are we at now? 1 de2, 2 s060, 1 dh4, not to mention all the other ones from sandbox mode

That's exactly how it works **looks at that thing that goes up to M 2.5**

Legend has it that the screams still echo across the valley...

*unintelligible*

Badum Tss!

Is it a V90, because the DH4 _is_ a V90.

"editing hyce" = Mickely :)

I don't know about locomotives, but automatic transmission car can start in gear.

Only reason an automatic car won't start stationary in gear is due to the shifter lockout. Not because it can't. The shifter lockout is just to prevent the vehicle running something over if started in gear.

It just sucks to get disappointed when you think there's something gonna derail three times in a row and it kept not happening! :D

I was thinking the same thing about the smell. That's not danger. That's brake shoes ... and Kenosha.

This Exactly this

Not in the expert mode he's in.

Mmmm yes

I agree

Feels.... _great_

So far, I have not racked up too high fees fro the copay to really matter. I don't like when the bonus time limit goes down though.

I think 'learning the pattern' is the wrong way to do it, sure it technically works, but you don't understand what's going on so it's easy to forget or get confused. The 'A' gearbox (on the left) does 1st 2nd 3rd, and the 'B' gearbox does 'low' 'high' and 'overdrive'. (This is why the 1-3 positions are left out of the 'pattern' guides, because what the hell are you doing putting 1st into overdrive)

@@lordsrednuas That's one way but it still doesn't explain how to shift. So I prefer to think I have M&M on the left and I have L&H on the right Always advance, as available, in order: L, M, H. Every time you advance an M, you lower L. Every time you advance H, you lower M. Skipping gears is OK. Much easier to remember than memorizing the multiple sequences (I actually only remember as 3 separate things, instead of 9 separate things) BTW, the highest torque is at 600rpm (right in the middle). Changing gears at 800rpm is my recommendation. In practice, that rule leads to: 1-1, advance L 1-2, Advance M lower L 2-1, advance L 2-2, Advance M lower L 3-1, advance L 3-2, advance H lower M 2-3, advance M 3-3 In other words: 1-1, 1-2, 2-1, 2-2, 3-1, 3-2, 2-3, 3-3 I just can't memorize the sequence (8 double), so I memorize the ratio size M&M, L&H. The other 2 rules are easily recallable because it's the most logical and easy to remember.

@@brunoais I would haver thought knowing what the gears actually are would transition directly into how to shift to the gear you want. I don't have to memorise any of these rules. If it helps you that's cool, it just strikes me as needlessly complicated. I just had a thought, are you accustomed to driving a manual transmission car? I am and I'm just thinking maybe that's contributing to why I don't have to memorise sequences to change gears, or have to come up with M, L, H rules to avoid going into a higher or lower gear than I want when changing.

"If it doesn't fit, just shove it harder" _~Linus G. Sebastian_

Would watch. I want to see and hear him scream when Hyce keeps the independent plugged! :D

"Shaking fist at screen" happens more than you might think

@@MickelyMC that must have been such a paint to edit lmao

I'm still just 58 minutes in and already I'm sure your career the next two years would consist of gluing timetables to walls. *lol*

Train cars expected: X Train cars received: X-1 Money received: 0

I found the DM3 really painful. Even in the highest gear you struggle to get more then 60 or so out of it.

First of all, General Rule: obviously lower Gear means Higher pulling capacity but lower Speed. Only Shift when you dont apply throttle and never in neutral. The gears (lowest to highest; first number lever left, second lever right): 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 2 3 1 3 2 2 3 3 3 I wrote myself a Note and Put IT at my Monitor the First Times using it. It hast enormous Power at lower Gears and geht's suprisingly fast at Higher Gears. Important: mechanical damages come at more than 1000 RPM. When going down a Hill Shift Info high Gears.

@@Gnrnrvids Yes, it really shows that it's a shunting locomotive, not a freight one.

@@tiksmaoc9497 Yes, I've seen this order on the wiki, but I think remembering the exact numbers of individual levers and then calculating the needed ratio on teh fly would be easier. Writing down notes feels liek cheating a bit, basically like having a wiki open on the side all the time.

I prefer to think I have M&M on the left and I have L&H on the right Always advance, as available, in order: L, M, H. Every time you advance an M, you lower L. Every time you advance H, you lower M. Skipping gears is OK. Much easier to remember than memorising the multiple sequences (I actually only remember as 3 separate things, instead of 9 separate things) BTW, the highest torque is at 600rpm (right in the middle). Changing gears at 400 (lower) or 800rpm (higher) is my recommendation. In practice, that rule leads to: 1-1, advance L 1-2, Advance M lower L 2-1, advance L 2-2, Advance M lower L 3-1, advance L 3-2, advance H lower M 2-3, advance M 3-3 In other words: 1-1, 1-2, 2-1, 2-2, 3-1, 3-2, 2-3, 3-3 I just can't memorize the sequence (8 double), so I memorize the ratio size M&M, L&H. The other 2 rules are easily recallable because it's the most logical and easy to remember. Edit: @JTCF I Agree

I'd be so down for some steam MU in that order of magnitude...

He tried the slug out on a recent stream already.

@@tomthebuilder794 dang i must have missed that one guess i know what im watching next then :)

@@tomthebuilder794Where's the video? I'd like to see

It also go boom