What vendor ICF did you go with?

How did you get a termite letter for your C.O.? Most companies will not touch an ICF.

What did you do for the roof?

I am planning to build my house as an ICF to Passive house standards (without paying for certification) with in floor heat and geothermal. Designing the southern wall for Passive solar would be ideal.

I doubt it

It's weird to use technology when talking about plastic and Styrofoam.

I feel you. Going through exactly same difficulties right now with some other type of build. So ICF is my fall back. Would never build my forever home with wood.

Where you located, if you don’t mind me asking, there’s hardly anyone here that builds icf homes

Is there a per sq ft approximation with these to figure cost? Wondering if these will pass code here in earthquake country (NCal) I cant figure how they tie steel together unless they dont at all. Saw the offsetting of the horizontals to slip the verticals inbetween. Appreciate any response thx.

That is my plan: ICF to the roof!

@@cpad007 You can use ICFs for the roof and floors too!

I've heard that poured concrete is somewhat radioactive. True?

@@pistolpete9978 Natural Radiation, same is true for any material even wood but to a much lesser degree than concrete with that said your cell phone is casting off way more than any concrete would.

Foundation only or all the way to the trusses?

@@jamess5872 Cellphones don't give off radioactive radiation, i.e. alpha or beta particles or gamma rays, which is what I think Pistol Pete is talking about. Concrete can potentially be significantly more radioactive than your surroundings depending on where the source materials come from, but normally it still falls well below the thresholds where it's considered to be a problem.

@@siggyincr7447 Your right, I forgot cell phones would be non-ionizing radiation. Sorry that was my mistake

Matthew Shultz you don’t even notice. So cool to work with.

Bluetooth head phones. Just got done encapsulating my crawl space and it's the only way I made it through that project.

i know it's quite randomly asking but do anyone know of a good website to watch newly released tv shows online ?

@Jordan Willie Ehh I watch on Flixportal. Just search on google for it =) -bruno

@Bruno Case Thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :) Appreciate it!!

@Jordan Willie glad I could help xD

I understand the thought, but in reality he only needed to use that adhesive to repair that.

@@gacomeau2000 Sure - and he only needed to use a hose and a squeegee to repair the dump issue.

@@boedillard8807 I’ll relate a story about the ICF house that I (the construction company I hired) built. The porch was to be at the same height as the entry door. They cut holes in the foam to attach a ledger board (using the anchor bolt method). Then the wife decided to put the porch lower so snow would have to be one step deep before it is at the level of the door. Cut new holes 8” lower than the old holes. Take the foam cut out and use them as plugs for the old holes. Use pumped foam to seal. It is as good as new. The point is the pumped in foam can fix many things, however, it won’t do squat for the crap on the windshield.

This segment was a promo for the ICF company. I doubt the contractor had to pay for the demo materials shown in the video

It's basically unlimited. From wood shiplap and shake to brick to natural stuccos. Whatever you want

Lol!

I did not catch that first time around...

that guy is a hack lol, he installed this louver gutter system that does zero to taking water away from the building. Go watch it haha

How could termites possibly be an issue? They eat wood.

The way it slips between the bars and clips its considered fully incarcerated, it can only slide in and out the direction it's dropped in from

Drill on centers

There are vertical plastic ties running every 6-8 inches.

You don't. The form also serves as insulation. ICF = Insulating Concrete Form

3 choices, either rolled&brushed on, sprayed on, or adhesive sheets (like they use on roofs for ice damming). Sometimes they add a drainage mat to facilitate water flow down to the footer drain.

Look up Poly-wall.

It doesn't really matter.

The ants haven't touched our ICF house over the past 10 years. Ants don't eat Styrofoam.

That’s BS, ants don t eat styrofoam.

Braces. Look up giraffe bracing, or plumbwall bracing

The outsides are can be finished using exterior coatings from the various EIFS manufacturers.

Think I remember seeing someone mention in another video that it's about $15/wall foot including labour.

Depending on your location and labor rates and technicality of the design, the price varies. Material cost of each 4’ block is about $20, corners $25, and (for 6” thick which is what I use most) use about .099 cu yds of concrete per block. At an average of $150/yd of mud (my mud is usually about $130 and I factor pump cost as the extra; some places it is much more expensive), and each form covering 5.33sq ft you get (150*.099+20)/5.33=~$6.54/wall sqft material cost. Some designs are great and have no seams (made to fit perfect block dimensions) and have just a few corners and are less than 10’ tall, and will run you closer to $10/wall sqft with labor, and others will be obnoxiously complicated with seams in every wall, tall walls, stepped foundations, curved, excessive rebar, etc. and end up be closer to $18-20/wall sqft. So, if you are doing the labor yourself, guesstimate $10/sqft, and if you are hiring it out, plan for about $16. That should get you close. Feel free to ask me any questions. I am a master installer and have no brand ties; I install and consult on all brands. I have used 5 brands so far but recommend them all and continue to try new brands to find my favorite.

@@joshualruby have you tried perfect blocks or what are your thoughts on that from video ?

@@andreycham4797 I have not used Perfect Block or seen it in person. My opinions are as follows from what I have seen: Pros: structurally sound, good air and water sealing, simple to erect, seems less to no bracing required, uses less poured concrete, more pest deterrent Cons: proprietary technology so is shipped from Peoria- shipping costs could be exorbitant (I typically recommend uses whichever brand is closest for this reason), uses an unconventional corner that requires shimming and strapping (not difficult, but strapping is the bane of any system- the perfect system has no screws to install that ever need to be removed, I am close to that but currently need about 1 screw for every 2lnft of wall...), needs highflow mix design (may not be suitable for all rebar schedules in all seismic zones, much less room for rebar posts and beams and such may pose concern for certain designs), blocks are heavy and can’t be tossed (I typically have one guy on rolling scaffold and one guy on the floor pushing him around and tossing up block and rebar sticks so there is minimal ladder work and elevation changing), electrical Chace’s may be more difficult but the chainsaw method may work just as well, drywall is able to be screwed anywhere? (Would be a nice perk, but I fear without ties it needs glued on or omitted and use just plaster like Gigacrete or such; could be a pro or con I suppose, but definite con if needed to glue it...), same for exterior; pro if going stucco, concerns if going with other finishes (both of these concerns are dealing with embedded anchors which from my limited knowledge of the block does not have any through straps, I may be in error on that point), need to level each course somewhat (this is really a misnomer; if the first course is level the rest self level, but without interlock you need to maintain plumb and shim for horizontal is a possibility if the footing is not flat. I prefer to just stack clear height and laser point the corners and snap a line and cut the top level and not worry about the field at all and just foam gaps in the bottom of there are any), can’t carry bundles without equipment (I typically have no equipment or limited power on job sites so only require my hand saws and can do everything from staging and such manually carrying bunks alone), more abrasive and chance of injury on sharper corners; rougher on hands and more intimidating for novices (I typically work barehanded and help homeowners build their own homes) Conclusion: I would try the block as I love to try every method of fabrication available. I would likely only try it if I was within 4 hours of Peoria. I would also only do it on a job with less than 6 corners. And I would require at least four people due to excess weight, usually I work with two. Fatigue would be a concern. I think it’s a decent system and will provide a good wall system. If the cost for block were cheaper and you are doing it yourself I say it’s a great option. If you are hiring it out, the labor side will likely be more than standard ICF because of the fuss. Ps. Their block topping off tool is sweet and think that’s a great idea. I use a stepped top nowadays to eliminate sill plate thermal bridging, but for a flat top that’d be nice.

Spray foam

No. I don't think so. (I'm not a pro) You would need to let the concrete cure for at least 28 days before you can cap it with a slab. Technically, you would probably pour the floor after the walls cure, adding another 28days then build your support forms on top of the slab and then, pour your suspended slab.

Just bury them. You would be amazed with what they bury under the lawn.

These guys are contractors. Cleaning is not in their dictionary. They’ll leave debris anywhere

Deeper the better... i found an old coke can in my wall when i was installing an egress window.

Google "shop vac"

I have the same problem and looking for the same answers. Have you had any luck ?

FLEXSEAL IT

Electric gets installed before the drywall. A small chainsaw with a bolt through the bar at the proper depth (same thickness as the foam) makes quick work to cut troughs into the foam wall to run electric.

I'd personally still want to put up studs for the drywall. 2x3 would be good enough but at least I'd have something to screw into if I want to mount shelving, a TV, electrical panel, etc...

Dynamic Solutions Matt Risinger has some good cost and general info on his channel

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g7iZo9180Mu1mZ8.html

Generally they are DIY friendly. I consult for DIY ICF builders professionally. Expect $10/wall sqft material cost and about $3-8/wall sqft for labor to hire it out. Complexity and rebar schedule make for the large variance in labor cost. Feel free to reach out and I can give you better numbers of your project if you want.

Yes, termites can eat through foam. However, since the structural strength of icf is concrete termites will not change the integrity of an icf wall like a wood frame wall. Since icf has a concrete core, termites are unable to eat through that concrete, therefore icf is a better solution than wood frame.

@@ctrent859 I'd like to see some of these ICF manufacturers improve the foam such that bugs won't like it. The Perfect Block has an interesting product: no bugs, fireproof, uses recycled material.

Lol.. did you forget about the 10 inches of concrete?

@@ctrent859 why would they? It is not a natural food and if they could possibly detect what was on the other side it is non food concrete.

Ideally, yes. Often you can’t get a stinger in the first layer and you hit the sides of the forms to try to evacuate the air. It’s also ideal to cross vibrate the transition level to blend the upper lift to the lower lift. I typically pour in 8’ lifts with a 6.5” slump and just vibrate once I can reach it with a stinger. I also have beaters on the sides to check for voids and help some too. A looser slump is nicer, so I use a 4500 psi mix in case the looser mix doesn’t reach maximum strength it is still over done.

Looks like zip sheathing. Probably for sealing holes and cracks that they made.

The corners will spread from the concrete pressure. To prevent this, plywood is screwed from the plastic ties in the corner form to the ties in the abutting icf form. Some scraps of plywood and a few drywall screws is all it takes.

Quaddeck tilt up roof ;)

Furry Donkey it’s7+ inches of reinforced concrete it is incredibly strong stronger than a block wall.

And styrofoam has incredible compressive strength as well.

Depending on the build, sometimes you need to put in the floor joist members before back filling. I have seen a wall break when someone was in a hurry to backfill. Frankly I prefer a standard poured foundation, then icf from there up

Yes

The footing is poured first with the vertical bars embedded and extended upward with the ICFs.

The foam is held together before the pour, and they are just adding concrete inside it.

Rewatch.... He mentioned that the plastic ties can used, to screw or drill into... Or for something heavier, google all the anchoring methods for concrete... No, Duh....

what do you mean hang? this is a foundation, its not an interior wall lmao

@@bigboat8329 Uh, it IS an interior wall...in the basement.

@@cpad007 wouldn't you still put up studs and drywall? You wont be screwing into the foundation if you're hanging something

@@bigboat8329 It depends on the ICF but most seem to have "plastic studs/webbing" contained within the form that is perfectly fine to screw directly to if desired. So one doesn't necessarily need to put up furring strips or studs but one certainly could.

With ICF, your energy costs will be low to heat/cool. You won't necessarily need too much.

It is a low energy way to live. Our house is ICF from the basement to the top of the first floor. It's great.

The ICF material kills the termites, as I understand it (purposely, with a chemical)

Termites eat wood. Styrofoam has not been a part of their diet for 100's of millions of years.

Yeah I used to work with a lot of people just like you

I also enjoy watching other people work from my comfy chair

I never heard of it , I’m about to build an icf home on my lot and doing lots of homework before I start my building project.

shoebert31 built my ICF home for $80.00 a ft2 forms and concrete relatively cheap

@@TheMarpalm Where are you located? How much of the work did you do yourself?

Herbert Massey live in Eastern TN. We did all the ICF work up to the pour.. hired someone to help do the pour. Pretty much everything else was hired out. We did some interior trim and some painting. I did most of the final plumbing. I did act as general contractor. If you are on Facebook I can PM you and send pictures etc

@@TheMarpalm when did you build?

@@TheMarpalm could you PM me some pics as well please? Or email? pivutpoint@gmail.com

The Earth wanted plastic for itself, didn't know how to make it, needed us. Our job is done now.

@@robertf6344 George Carlin

They say it's no more than softwoods, but I don't know, that's an asston of foam. Also it costs 30-40% more than a traditional method.

I highly doubt it is. It’s all about cutting costs

From what I understand expanded polystyrene doesn't off-gas much at all if the manufacturing process is done correctly. I'm guessing they produce truck loads of these everyday, they should have the process nailed.

There is no off gassing with EPS products because it is expanded with steam, like puffed rice. XPS (extruded polystyrene) does use some gas and does have some off gassing, but no ICFs I am aware of use XPS. (In fact XPS is usually commonly used as the foundation insulation when doing conventional forming, so ICF would win from that standpoint.)

Depends on where you want to build, but in most of the country that's not true.

Yea, that’s false... unless you live in Commiefornia. But still even there you could do it.

Literally doing it, I'm 30 years old. Make less then 40k a year. Building 2760 sqft.2500 sqft garage.

Banks would not loan on construction loans if they were not comparable. It is possible to build a quality house for $50/sqft of you do all the labor. I have two clients building theirs for $75/sqft or so, in a market where average is $130/sqft. They are building their own to SAVE money, because existing homes are in short supply. So, this notion of buying existing is cheaper is not just very relative to location and supply; it is usually erroneous entirely.

This weihan person must be a struggling realtor.

Anchor is the right thing. You drill a hole into the concrete with a pneumatic drill hammer and insert an anchor into the hole and then you put a screw into the anchor. Before anchors were not invented, or if they had none, they made a hole much larger than required. Then inserted a piece of wood into the hole and fixed it with plaster or mortar. Sometimes the broomhandle was a bit shorter after this. In my basement some of the light switches and the lighting fixtures were installed that way. Still holds up good after almost 70 years. Styrofoam is one of the poorest choice for indoor insulation, for the outside it will be ok. On the inside it should be mineral based, calcium silicate plates which you install like tiles on a wall with thinset. With styrofoam you could get a problem with mold.

Here's the company that makes it, you go tell them that. :D logixicf.com/

Built my ICF home a couple of years ago. There is a lot you are confused about. The “plastic” is much stronger than wood and it is tied into the concrete, into the whole pour really. Screw a drywall screw into the plastic web and then try and pull it out- you will be convinced right away. The styrofoam works really well. Our house is very thermally efficient. This is a really good building system and I would build with it again in a heartbeat. You would be amazed at how strong the house feels. It is hurricane and tornado proof- for that matter it is bulletproof

Not true, drilling into the concrete will create thermal bridges at every screw. Screw a 1x4 into those plastic braces with 2 drywall screws and I doubt you would have the strength to pull it out. This sort of construction will easily last as long as a conventionally build basement wall, if not longer due to lack of materials that can rot over time.

@@siggyincr7447 I still don't think that polystyrol on the inside is a good thing. Only if you have HVAC. If you have a conventional heating system, like it's the case in colder climate regions (Europe or in case of the US in Alaska), you'll get a problem with mold. So on the inside it should be a mineral based insulation.