Great info, thanks! And nice find on that Necchi!

+Jane Doe I'm really liking this machine myself. I'm actually thinning my sewing machine herd a little, getting rid of one machine, and I'm keeping this one over my 758 Touch-and-Sew (which I've loved). Thanks for watching and commenting!

Jane Doe I

+TMT1473 Thanks for watching, and good luck in your search!

Thanks! I still find myself coming back to this machine, it's great. Thanks for watching and commenting!

I have the same machine mine the thread keep breaking . Pl help.

Me, too. My husband gave me the Kenmore which I still use regularly in 1985. It needed major repair for the first time in 2013.

Jason, All these years of repairing and restoring vintage sewing machines, I have ignored these machines because I presumed that they had nylon gears! In another video you said if you narrowed your sewing machine herd down to two machines that Singer 237 would be your domestic swing needle machine. This video clarified that Singer 237s are vertical oscillating hook, class 15 bobbin and all metal internal mechanism. Not only have you redeemed the 237s in my mind but one is listed on local Craigslist for $30. It is obviously very dirty with dried oil mixed with dirt but clear coat cleaner wax and a lot of elbow grease can solve that "problem". My wife regularly teaches young students who need an affordable quality sewing machine and the Singer 237 fits the bill.

@@yasminmughul5957 The tension is too tight. If the bottom thread breaks there is a tension on the bobbin that can be too tight and will break the thread. The thread should spool out of the bobbin quit easy. If the top breaks you can back off the tension. You must run the thread in the tension holder correctly so check that you have it threaded correctly.

Wow, that's a great find! I routinely see these on craigslist with asking prices of $100. I want to go dumpster diving in your neighborhood! Thanks for sharing.

Good Save!

+Danthefordfixer Thanks! I found a new bobbin tire for it, but I got distracted by other machines. Hopefully soon I'll replace the tire and dial this machine in some. Thanks for watching!

That's great to hear! Thanks for watching and commenting!

What is it with people throwing these away?!? I think you're the third person to comment about finding one in the trash. Great find, enjoy the machine, and thanks for watching and commenting!

thejasonofalltrades, why? One, People would rather buy cheap stuff ready made from China, Turkey, India, Bangladesh or Mexico. Thus, Two, not many people bother to have sewing skills anymore.

Thanks! The oil you see got on the tire (inadvertently) after the problem was discovered, but you're right, oil on the tire would not help. The tire was very worn, however, and replacing it did the trick. I have a follow-up video on my channel if you'd like to see how it turned out. Thanks for watching and commenting!

I was going to mention that myself - keep the bobbin tires dry!

That's great! Here's a link to Singer's website and the 237 manual. If you're machine is a different model, you can search for the manual there. www.singer.com/search/support?title=237

This machine continues to be one of my favorites! Congrats on scoring one for free! Thanks for watching and commenting!

I found on on E-Bay for £5. It now sits in a treadle table as the motor was not too good. It was a straight swap for the original machine. I love it. All the best from England.

Mandy Young That was do wonderful! May you have many years of enjoyment. Hello from very cold Northern Texas😍

Hi! If you're OK with a digital version, Singer has all of their manuals online. I think there are some hard copies available for purchase online, as well. Good luck! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks Jason. I do have the pdf of a manual for the 237 - but it's the "wrong" one! It's close enough tho' so if I don't locate the specific manual for the 237 sans feed control, I'll be fine. By the way, I'm really enjoying your sewing related videos - thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience

Hey Tim, I'm not very familiar with the newer Singer models, but it sounds like you're doing the right things by cleaning and oiling it. Rust is definitely an issue in FL! The 237 is a pretty simple machine, and there should be plenty of info online if you need to do any work to it. I looked at the ad on Craigslist you refer to. Neither of the black Singers is a 201 (maybe a 66?). If you have any interest at all in learning how to work on these things, that sounds like a pretty good deal to me for all three. $40 for a working 237 seems to be a pretty good price, so the other two are basically free, if it's in your budget and you have enough interest in them. Good luck, and let me know how it works out!

Hi Bernice, My first guess is are you inserting the needle in the correct orientation? In this machine, the slot in the back of the needle goes on the LEFT, and the needle is threaded from LEFT to RIGHT. Needle breaking could be a sign that the timing is way off, or something else could be bent or misaligned, so if you are threading it correctly, you might want to find a sewing machine repair person to look at it. If you don't have the manual for the machine, it can be found on Singer's website as a free download. Good luck and thanks for watching!

@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you for mentioning the manual download at Singer.com! I just got the manual for my own 237.

Hi, It's possible the belt is too loose; you can adjust the tension by loosening the bolt that attaches the motor to the machine and moving the motor. If it isn't loose, I would try changing the belt for a new one. They are available at several online retailers. I hope that helps!

Man, I wish people would stop throwing these things away, but I'm glad you found it! You might want to check out my "Sewing Machine Basics" videos (1 and 2) to get you started. Let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for watching and commenting!

I am happy that you lucked out, but I am stunned that folks can’t be bothered to even take an old machine to a thrift store - you know, benefit a good cause, make somebody else’s day great.....but I try to be nice and imagine that maybe they just can’t do it or don’t know any better.

Anastasios Zarkos hi

Hi

Hi Vanessa, I'm not familiar with that model in particular, and while I have managed some simple repairs on my machine, I am not a sewing machine repair person. Singer has manuals for their machines for free on their website - I think this one should be right for your machine, but if it's not the right one you should be able to find it. www.singerco.com/support/instruction-manuals/search A good KZfaq channel about vintage sewing machine repair is called AndyTube. You might check his videos to see if there is something that will help you. I hope that helps, thanks for your question and thanks for watching!

I haven't found a Necchi BU at a price I can't refuse yet, but I'm keeping my eyes out for one!

Oh. I guess I got a bit lucky then. I paid only 40€ for it. :o

Hi, Nice find! Basically, thread tension and stitch length are dependent on several factors, such as the material being sewn, weight of the thread and what kind of seam is being sewn. I would suggest setting the bobbin tension so that if you hold the thread tail coming out of the bobbin case, the bobbin will hang in the air, but if you give it a shake it will start to unspool. Then set the upper tension in the middle of its range. Test on some scrap material (the same material you'll be sewing). A good way to test tension is with different colors of thread in the top and bobbin, so you can more easily see where any tension problems are coming from. If the bobbin thread is coming up through the top of your material, you need to REDUCE the TOP tension. If the top thread is being pulled underneath your material, you need to INCREASE the TOP tension. In most cases, if the bobbin case tension is correct, you should be able to make all tension adjustments at the top tension adjuster. When the tension is set correctly, the intersection of the two threads will be exactly in the middle of the material being sewn. Regarding stitch length - basically, you would use a smaller stitch length on finer materials or where you want a stronger bond, and longer stitch length on thicker materials or for decorative topstitching. There's a lot more to this, but if you're sewing the kind of projects I do a lot of on this channel, the stitch length range on this machine won't really matter that much. On my domestic machines, I rarely change stitch length from the longest length, because it isn't very long anyway. Again, this will depend on your materials and intended use. I hope that helps, congratulations on your 237, and thanks for watching!

Suggest plugging it into a good quality power strip. I'm not an electrician, so can't tell you what's involved with adding a ground wire to the wiring assembly of this older machine. FWIW, it's what I do, when I have a concern with older two prong power tools. Hope this helps.

Sorry, I just saw this comment! I am not an electrician, but I like Old-timer Lee's suggestion of using a power strip. I also am fanatical about unplugging my machines, since most don't have an on/off switch, and I have cats; I fear they might somehow coordinate with one another and sew stuff when I'm not home :) I have my Singer 20U and Pfaff 260 plugged into a strip, and turn the strip off when I'm done using them. And it sounds like you got as good of a deal as I did. It's a very good machine.

I also plug my old two-prong appliances into good power strips with circuit breakers. I hope that will prevent problems, though I am no electrician, so I don’t actually know that it will. I am terrible about unplugging my sewing machines, for whatever reason I find it easier to remember to flip off the switch on the power strip.

I like to add a light to the power strip...leaving the light on unless I have unplugged the machine.

Hi, According to the manual, this machine uses Catalog 2020 (15x1) needles, available in sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18. These are still readily available. As long as you make sure any needles you have or purchase are compatible with Catalog 2020, you should be good! Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!

thejasonofalltrades thanks. Those are the kind that I have purchased. Have a good one!

I have been using this brand since day one and even though it's needed minor maintenance maybe twice, I'm still not convinced a newer 'plastic' brand would be better, quieter, maybe, but better? most likely not. I ran across this handy website: www.sewingpartsonline.com/singer-237-sewing-machine-parts.aspx one day, most needles I buy at JoAnn's though fit fine too...as long as it has that flat end and threads left to right, you're good. Happy sewing!

It's not stupid to not know something, you just don't know it yet, so don't sweat it. The needle gets inserted into the vertical metal bar at the end of the "arm" of the sewing machine - all the way to the left as you're sitting in front of it. If you google "Singer 237 needle bar" you'll see some images that might help. Sorry, it's hard to explain without showing you. If the pictures on google don't clear it up, let me know and I can shoot a video that will show how to install a needle. Thanks for watching and good luck!

I was able to find this, I have no affiliation or experience with this site. www.sewingmanuals.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/Singer_Service.htm Scroll down the page until you get to the 237 manual. You might also check out videos by Andytube. He has repair videos on similar vintage sewing machines. I don't know if he has a 237 timing - specific video, but you might be able to find enough information to get it done. Good luck, and thanks for your question!

sometimes people think the timing is off but that is very very rare on a machine like this. You may have a bent needle and when it hits the side may seem like the bottom is out of time. Try a new needle first.

Hi Ian! I think this machine "can" sew MOLLE/PALS webbing (particularly if you use the correct "17337 Military Flat Webbing"). Cordura should be no problem, although at thicker seams it might need a little help. It's not ideal, but it should be capable. If you haven't, check out my Sailrite review - even if you aren't interested in the Sailrite. I do a side-by-side comparison sewing some thick materials with the Sailrite and the 237, and you can see the difference pretty clearly. I've been getting a lot of questions on this issue (and this machine in particular!) lately, and my opinion is this; for sewing stuff like heavy duty backpacks and similar items that involve Cordura, webbing, light leathers or vinyls, etc., you will probably be best served by TWO sewing machines - something like the 237 or similar vintage machine for the lighter materials (like the lining fabric on the interior, for example), and a walking foot machine (Sailrite, Thompson or industrial) for the heavier materials, webbing etc. That said, I've made some of that stuff with my Pfaff 260 (similar to the 237), and while it wasn't as easy as it is with the Sailrite, it can be done. Before spending $650 on a Sailrite, definitely start with a vintage machine like the 237. You can get a LONG way before you truly NEED a walking foot. But, there will be seams your machine will struggle with, and you'll have to go slow and help it along (and maybe have to live with some inconsistent stitches). I hope that helps. Let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!

thejasonofalltrades thank you so much for the fast and detailed response! I'll check all those out! Been seeing some pretty good deals on Craigslist! Again thank you! Helps alot!

La gemela de mi máquina ,la compre de segunda y me enamore me gusta

For what it’s worth, when something’s too thick for one of my machines, I get out one of my large heavy leather cutting point needles and waxed thread and sew it by hand. In my case, I don’t sew enough with heavy fabrics to make it worth purchasing an industrial-type heavy duty sewing machine. Clearly that would not be the case for someone who sews sails or the like.

Hi Joe, Sorry for the delay. Short answer, yes* Long answer - I find the 237 to be among the more capable vintage domestic sewing machines that I've used. For more on why, you might check out my video, "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines" if you haven't already. I think a treadle-powered one would be great! I've never used one, but a friend once upholstered his car interior using a treacle machine. Making something like a backpack will present a few challenges to a non-walking-foot machine, but they can be overcome. Good luck, let me know if you get the machine!

@@thejasonofalltrades Yes, I couldn't pass it up. Fully functioning, but a bit bound up with old grease, ans 20 years of sitting. It will get a good cleaning this weekend and then the fun begins. Check out Andy Tube. Really long videos, but he gets into it on cleaning and repair. Swears by Krud Kutter on the vintage machines. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r8iCdMJi1r_bZWw.html Some really good stuff!

Yeah, Andy is a great resource!

I'm not sure about fixing that, but there is an Alphasew motor that is supposed to be a direct replacement with more power. I've been considering one for years, but just haven't pulled the trigger.

Hi David! Sounds like your machine may be slightly out of time. The springs in the tension adjuster can wear out over time, that might be causing your tension issues. Hopefully they can get it sorted for you! I'm pretty ignorant of how electric motors work, but in my experience, everything from sewing machines to belt sanders will "bog down" under load and stop turning. When sewing with a sewing machine, particularly a vintage domestic, encountering a thick seam or other hard-to-penetrate areas will cause the motor to stop. Often "helping" it with the hand wheel is enough to get it going again, and I frequently find that it happens most at slow speed and when starting. I've experienced this with every one of my domestic sewing machines. I suppose it's possible that the age/wear of the motors may be a contributing factor. There is a higher speed/more powerful motor available for the 237 (Alphasew, I think?) but I haven't used one and can't comment on its performance. Good luck with your 237, I love mine! Thanks for watching!

@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for the response! I love the statement you make about not having to give up your man card to sew! That's funny. If they can fix the machine then I may look into the Alphasew motor. Just FYI if you didn't know there is a you tuber, Andy Tube, that has detailed videos on the 237 and how to fix many problems. The videos are long and sometimes a little slow for my gen x, get everything now, mind. However he is very thorough. That's where I learned how to clean the motor. It made a huge difference in how the motor sounded. I'm just starting my journey. Is there one machine you recommend for people interested in sewing? If I were to buy new I would not want a computerized machine. I like the design of the Baby Lock Jazz II with its large throat of 12". I'm piddling now making double hot pads. I'm upcycling old aprons, sweatshirts, etc to make these. I am trying to make them thick enough to handle the heat of hot cast iron pans cooked at about 450 degrees. Something most hot pads cannot handle. Anyway, I'm looking for a machine that will do this. The 237 has done well so far. Thanks again. Sorry I write a lot of words. I'm gonna subscribe to your channel now.

Thanks David! Yeah, I've recommended Andy Tube a few times now, he is definitely a wealth of knowledge!

Hi Bridget, I bought a stitch width lever for this machine from sewingmachine221sale.bizland.com The lever is no longer available new, but they have a stock of machines to pull parts from. The lever arrived in very good condition and worked perfectly. Another site you might try is sewingpartsonline.com. Good luck, and thanks for watching!

ebay

Hi, If it's a Singer machine, the first thing is to go to Singer.com and download the manual. You will need to know what model you have. In the menu near the top click on "manuals/support" and then put your model number in the search box. The manual will show how the machine is threaded. If you have a 237 or similar model, the needle is inserted differently from many other domestic machines. The needle is inserted so that the groove on the needle is to the left, and the "scoop" near the eye of the needle is to the right. The thread is inserted through the needle from left to right. Most tension adjustments are made using the tension knob just above the needle. Adjusting the bobbin tension is done by adjusting a screw on the bobbin case in VERY small adjustments. I hope that helps, good luck, and thanks for watching!

@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you

www.sewingpartsonline.com/tension-complete-singer-422403-455.aspx Do yourself a favor and order the race cover too www.sewingpartsonline.com/race-cover-singer-352075.aspx Both are to what I consider the weak parts in a good machine. I have 2 fashion mate 237’s. Both have a crack in the race cover and one had a broken tension assembly.

@@tomminor1394 Hey! Thank You for your reply, I dont see any thing that even resembles a crack in the race, however, the whole upper tension assembly may need to be replaced, and I will order one! Appreciate your help, and like your video also! Stay safe, happy life!

@@nonyabidness1623 it is not my video. I just recently purchased two 237’s and am in the process of restoring them. With regard to the race gate, the cracks were right at the pivot point, by the metal “pin”.

@@tomminor1394 Ooops, I apologize for my confusing you, with the video, I thank you just the same for your help and kind reply regarding the issue. This machine makes beautiful stitches now , but I have to hold the thread going thru the upper tension it gets stuck, anyway I'm going to try to order that part/ assembly it will most likely solve the problem! I hope it does! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me !

Congrats, sounds like a great deal! I'd definitely keep the table, it's nicer sewing in a table than a case, in my experience. My Thompson mini walking foot machine came in a generic plastic case, and the Thompson fits in the same table as my 237, so I imagine the 237 would fit in that case. If you Google "generic sewing machine case" you'll see some to choose from that might work for you. Thanks for watching and commenting, and let me know what you make with your machine!

+thejasonofalltrades Thank you.. I will let you know how my first project goes..

Hi, Sorry for the delay in responding. I have read varying opinions on lubricating sewing machines. I lean toward the "only use sewing machine oil" opinion. WD40, in my opinion, isn't a great lubricant ("WD" stands for "water displacer" as the product was originally designed to remove water, not to lubricate). Current formulations may be fine as a lubricant, I don't know, but I think a product that is actually intended for sewing machines is likely to be better. If WD40 is all you have access too, though, I doubt it will hurt anything. I have a ton of project videos, and more coming, so stick around and feel free to ask questions. Thanks for watching, and good luck!

@@thejasonofalltrades It's okay, it's KZfaq, I never expect a fast response, lol! Thank you for the advice, I had no idea about wd40. I definitely will be checking out more of your stuff, thank you!

I'll have to look to be sure, and my machine is not convenient to me at the moment, but I think it's just to turn the light on/off. That's the way it is on most of the machines I have, at least. That said, I unplug my machines when I'm done with them for the day. Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!

Hi Jessica, First, welcome, and good choice of machine (especially for free!). My first guess is that you have the needle oriented incorrectly. On your machine, the needle threads from left to right (as viewed from sitting in front of the machine as when you are sewing). If you look closely at the needle, you will find that one side of the needle has a groove running down its length. That groove needs to be on the LEFT side. The other side of the needle has a "scoop" near the eye. That "scoop" section should be on the RIGHT side. Pass the thread through the eye from left to right. (Many, many domestic sewing machines thread from front to back, and this is a common mistake for machines that thread from one side.) If that isn't your problem, let me know. You can also email me at "the jason of all trades @ gmail . com" (remove the spaces) if you need more info. I hope that helps, good luck and stay safe!

@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for the advice! I made the novice mistake of not having the foot down. It seems to be working great now! I just have to remember how I managed to thread it. Can't wait to learn more.

LOL yeah, been there, done that! Enjoy, and stay safe!

Hi, If you would like to email me at the jason of all trades @ gmail . com (remove the spaces) I can send a picture to you. The part should be readily available.

@@thejasonofalltrades I sent an email so hopefully you've received it if not it may be in Spam. Ann

Hi, I haven't received an email (I checked the spam folder as well), you may need to confirm the address and try again, sorry!

I believe mine is an Italian, I can't remember if I ever confirmed that though. Some of the later (I think?) machines have a knob to lower the feed dogs for free-motion embroidery. Enjoy, and thanks for watching!

Italy @@thejasonofalltrades

All of Singer's manuals are available on their website.

Hi, Do you have the needle inserted correctly? On this machine, the needle threads from left to right instead of front to back. Other things to check: Is the needle inserted fully? Try re-threading the machine and the bobbin. Check the timing - the hook on the shuttle should pass by the "scarf" of the needle as the needle is starting to come back up. Let me know if any of that helps, and good luck!

NO I Didnt...lol took me downloading the manual to figure that out

Siento que estés teniendo problemas con tu máquina. Desafortunadamente, no soy un mecánico de máquinas de coser, así que no sé la respuesta. Si alguien en su área hace la reparación del motor eléctrico, es posible que pueda ayudarlo. ¡Buena suerte!

I've sewn up to size 92, and I use 69 almost exclusively. This machine is my usual #2 machine, running backup to a Consew 206RB-1 and/or a Sailrite LS-1. It's been a great machine, highly recommended if you find one. Thanks for watching!

¡Hola! Lo siento, mi español es pobre, pero uso Google para traducir. Singer.com tiene manuales disponibles para sus máquinas más antiguas como la 237. No sé si tienen versiones en español o no. Sin ver lo que pasó, es difícil para mí ayudarte, lo siento. ¡Buena suerte!

Im taking in thursday thanks again

Hi, The Singer 237 is as capable as any other domestic machine. It can sew thinner leather or upholstery fabrics reasonably well. A walking-foot machine will work far better for those kinds of materials, but of course they tend to cost much more. You might want to check out my review video on the Sailrite Ultrafeed - I do a direct comparison between that machine and this one that you might find helpful. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!

Hi Frank, With all due respect, I don't know where you got your information, but it appears to be incorrect. The 237 has no plastic gear on it. Every reference I've ever seen on this machine refers to this fact, but more importantly, I've been through the mechanism of this machine, and if there is a plastic gear, it is also invisible. (I've also used this machine regularly, and hard, for the last 3-4 years, and it has been completely reliable.) If you have a reliable source of information that says otherwise, I would love to know what it is! There is always the possibility that things changed during the production run (I think 1968-1972 for the 237), so perhaps there are some that do have plastic gears, although I've never seen reference to that. I'm not a professional vintage sewing machine researcher, though, so it's a possibility. Anyway, let us all know if you have evidence to support your assertion, I'd love to learn more! Thanks!

@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks for the reply. My comment was based on speculation on production run. Late 60s and onward, due to production cost, machines were constructed using nylon/plastic parts (inclusing gears). Like I pointed out, the 600e (touch and sew) 1964 used metal gears on early runs but later machines used plastic. Lookng at your video again closely, it looks like your machine is all metal underneath - confusing to me since its run started in 1967. So, I stand corrected.

I paid $20 for this one, and I've seen them priced up to $150. My opinion (and it really is just an opinion) is I think $75 is a good median price for these. Maybe a bit more for a truly exceptional example, and less for one in rough condition. Having used this one for several years now, I would happily pay $75 for a good, clean example, but I don't know that I'd pay much more. The real price of anything is what someone is willing to pay for it, but if someone asked me how much to pay, that's where I'd land. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!

thejasonofalltrades thanks a lot!!

Can you describe the noise, or any idea what part of the machine it is coming from? I am not a sewing machine mechanic, but when I've had noisy machines I generally go over the machine thoroughly, looking for anything loose that shouldn't be, any place where parts are making contact that shouldn't. Sometimes it's something simple like one of the rubber feet on the bottom of the case is missing, causing the whole thing to vibrate when in use. A thorough oiling is also a good start. The manual can be found on Singer.com if you don't have it, it's helpful for identifying oiling points. I hope that helps, good luck!

You are correct that there was oil on the tire, however, the problem was there before I got oil on it. I changed out the tire and it's worked great ever since. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Gracias por su pregunta. Lo siento no hablo bien español, espero que Google translate obras. ¿Me puede decir más acerca de su problema? Si la máquina se ha quedado atascado, podría deberse a la corrosión, la sincronización o algún otro problema. No soy un experto en la reparación de la máquina de coser, pero si usted me puede decir más, estoy feliz para tratar de ayudar!

Thanks for the feedback! Keep in mind this was 7 years in the past, I've upgraded my equipment since then. It's still not movie-studio quality, but better than this was 😂 Thanks for watching!

Awesome! I haven't used this machine a lot, but I've enjoyed it when I have. I have a video coming on a repair on this machine - I broke the stitch width lever off - you might want to check that out. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Sure will when it comes on. I didn't get machine lady changed her mind said she sold to daughter? But still interesting see how to repair it.