Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Brilliant. I just wish I'd seen it before buying a replacement actuator (that displayed the same behavior as the one in your video)! Amazing. Well done, Sir and thank you!

Good dope right here!! These videos explain why the things go haywire if they're stroked while disconnected like my 96 C3500 was. I centered the pot, tossed a little fresh grease on the gears and presto - The air goes where the switch says it should go! Thanks so much for the info!!

Excellent video. Very well done and informative. I wish all how to videos were as clear and clean 👍

Thank you so so much for your easy to follow video. I just changed my actuator out on my 04 grand prix and heat started working asap!

Thank you very much for your video, i was able to go right to the task at hand and fix it. I will be one of your followers

Great video. I have same actuator on my 04 Tahoe. It drives to full hot always. I bought a Amazon replacement and it didn't fix it. I suspect a bad part. Now I'm going to try open the original and test it.

Very Very Good Video..Like the way you explained it..Thank You!!!

Very thorough. Thanks so much for this vid.

Awesome..a lot of good info, thank you

Thank you! This was HIGHLY informative. Ordered a replacement tonight for my 2005 Buick LeSabre, essentially the same part. I went aftermarket on purpose since obviously the factory part failed. Maybe a different design will hold up better.

Thank you for sharing your experience with us! You have helped me !!!!

Thanks, great guide on how to do this!

I got a BRAND NEW actuator, SK604100, from Rock auto. Didn't get a chance to put it on there til after 30 days- they won't take a return. Found your vid and it inspired me to look at that pot. I did, and it had a LEAD UNSOLDERED! BRAND NEW! You are THE MAN! MAGA from TX.

I bought one from Amazon and I will keep and fix the old one as described herein

Great video. Thank you for posting it. I have a 95 Buick riviera that uses the same actuator. I’ve cleaned up the one on it and it works sometimes but not always. Has anyone reading this tried this calibration on a different GM Vehicle? Thanks again and thanks in advance.

Good job brother

From one Georgia boy to another thanks it works

It def was that actuator,although it takes a minute to get to,because of the awkwardness of the screws,I haven't replaced my actuator yet but I did turn it from the bottom and opened it up by hand,my heat in the front automatically came on,thanks for the great info,I replaced thermostat for nothing

Got the same cheap replacement. Mine went out of range as soon as I started the car. Now it won't go back. The manufacturer is telling me it's because I plugged it in and started the car without it installed on the spindle. They're sending me a FREE replacement.

Actuator on my 05 Silverado fails to relearn. Continues hunting in hot or cold position. I suspect a dirty or defective actuator. Will repost when solved. Great video

Bought the blend door and mode door actuator for my 2000 Pontiac Montana when I was getting clicks. Blend door turned out to be fine. The clicks were from the fresh/recirculate mode door actuator where one of the gears was cracked. It will settle and won’t click depending on your mode selection. Are you sure the fresh/recirculate mode actuator wasn’t what caused your clicks? That said, the instructions said not to connect/disconnect with the key in place so that it will not skip that homing process that happens every time you turn the vehicle on.

I have no power to the plug ok with the old one but after installed the new one the plug has no power. would you help me Thanks.

once a new actuator is installed you must pull hvac eac 10 amp fuse, leave out 10 minutes, reinstall start engine turn on AC let the motor run a few minutes, it will got through the split, mid defrost modes, when it is done, shut of engine. wait 2 minutes, restart engine, turn on AC should work fine, the ECU will self calibrate the actuator. Google your procedure depending on split controlled or auto AC, before you fuddle around needlessly

have a '94 Silverado, had a '95 GMC, both went bad, gear split. this is an '04?? Can't believe they didn't fix these issues within that amount of time. very common, not easy to get to to replace, not cheap either

Great ! Ok so I purchased brand new AC door, put it in, and it goes all the way to the one end - and recoils about 1/4 way back. Never stays all the way in full cold or hot. It is brand new unit. I called the store I bought it from, they tell me it is "plug 'n' play" device. Any suggestion ?

Ive come across your video and im having the same problem with my 2004 sierra with the same actuator as the one you bought with it going to far but it will not always go back the other direction when move the drivers side heat control. I pulled the fuse and did recalibrate it the first time everything was recalibrating (could hear it) I waited 10 mins turned on truck and It still giving me just hot on drivers and cold on passenger side. I bought another actuator ( same exact one) thinking something is wrong with the first one. Still having the same problem with that one. I’m completely stumped and don’t know what else to do or what the problem could be. Any ideas you could give me?

my 2005 chevy suburban does not change from hot to cold on the driver side it is hot all the time and on the passenger side if it changes

What does this control? What symptoms did you have for you to know this was bad?

How much the peace?

Typical Engineering Failure. Remember days of cables guys. My 70 GT 37..For those of you it was a Pontiac Tempest with400 Cid Ram Air. 345HP. Cables where great. You move a slider that had a cable. Heat, Defrost, and you blended the Temperature anywhere you wanted it to be. all this other shit is pure nightmare. My blower stooped it is the fan relay. more crap to take apart. Good video. But dude. You get what you pay for.

cut the boot guard w cut off wheel easier access to screws,popped open,has no little green gear,seemed to be out of sync,...recentered reinstalled all good 05 gmc sierra 6.6 2500,...recalibrating wasnt working for me ,anyhow its fixed for now little super glue on the clamshells,keeps it tight,...i had just replaced batteries(diesel) when it got outa sync

You probly made it go out of alignment on your own you are not supposed to turn those on and power them up until they are hooked to the bland door

After taking my actuator apart, I think the manufacturer purposely put a dollop of grease on those copper fingers that ride on the inductors looking track contacts

There is no calibration. It's a continuous rotational motor , forward and reverse. All you need do is make sure the replacement motor shaft is in the same rotational position of the original motor. That can be done on the test bench , simply with a 9 volt radio battery and two jumper wires, utilizing a small protractor. Since the shaft is not keyed , you can get it put of position by 180 * and still get it right.

Before attempt try antioxidant on the connector

What does an engineer say to the basic stuff and not designed garbage

Passenger side buddy not drivers side. Doye

Shayzuskeyrist! You gotta find a better place to get your parts than e-bay

Stupid electronics! What is wrong with cables ? like on my old 72 GM truck. Repair shop charged me $500. to fix this on my 2003 GMC.

After taking my actuator apart, I think the manufacturer purposely put a dollop of grease on those copper fingers that ride on the inductors looking track contacts