I just wanna thank you, I racked my brain for a two weeks, and I did this today and it fixed my issue, never knew the butterfly had to move both ways.

I've been dealing with this very issue on my wife's 2009 Silverado 4.8. I messed up and did the exact same thing. Apparently, it's a popular mistake for us older folk who used to work on cars before every damn thing became computerized. Looks like I'm pulling the throttle body again after work. Thanks, brother.

I'm pretty sure this is my exact problem on my 2009 h3 and I really appreciate your video about it. I notice its MOSTLY in very cold weather such as below 20 degrees or so and I'm thinking you just gave me the explanation for what I need to do. Thanks for your video and time spent to help others!

Thanks for sharing...I just replaced both my Brake Pedal Sensor and the Accelerator Pedal Sensor on my '10 GMC Acadia, but it is STILL giving the "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" message. Now I am being told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be cleaned/replaced. I was told to go with the easy cheaper fix first, but now I am going to be out of way more than the $300 price of this part. I wish I would've watched your video first; would've saved me time and money.

Hey mate. Im in Australia I have the same issue as you and ile do what you did tommorow. Just wanted to say thanx and you helped me out quickly. Ive been trawling the net for days and ya cant really find mutch about these issues here. Cheers mate great Vid

I can't thank you enough for posting this video. It was the exact same problem I was having. You Sir, are genius!

Thank You. It helped me. Same problem, same fix. You are a rockstar sir.

This helped me brother. Muchas THANK YOU!💪 I thought I was dead in the water to have to tell a friend to start buying all kinds of parts. 👍

Dude thanks for making this video, I did the same exact thing on mine and I almost bought a new tb.

This actually helped me. I have been trying to figure out why the car has been in limp mode. Even replaced the ECM. I am going to clean the Throttle body thoroughly tomorrow and hope it runs. Thanks for the video.

Thanks man, You saved me a load of cash. Much appreciated.

Thank you for such an informative, honest video. The part that made me just as happy as learning what you said is the kitty in the background. I lost a cat one week ago today who would have done that same thing, always wanted to know what was going on. Thank you for leaving your little fuzzy friend in the video

Thank you so much. I am going to take another look at my Brothers Cadillac North Star 2004. The pedal sticks every now and then.

I was able to fix my sisters car today thanks to your video! Thank you!

You right I did make a mistake of removing the plate but I was polishing the throttle body all extra aluminum dust got inside where the sensor is. I clean everything and I did put the blade backwards. Thanks because when I saw your video I realized that. But I have a 2007 tahoe and on the blade it has a small circle ⭕️. I don’t recommend removing your blade because the circle ⭕️ is for calibrate the throttle body if you don’t make a mark where exactly needs to be buy a new one. This happen last year now I tahoe is all mod 700 hp. Thanks you is a really good tip.

Thank you for this video; it does help me consider other ideas with trouble shooting the issue.

Thanks! I think you solved my problem on my 2015 chev cruze. I will clean and check the edges that may be sticking. My codes are PO 122 and PO223, Throttle Body sensor-JJ

You saved my skin, man! I cleaned the throttle body in my '07 trailblazer and I thought it would be a good idea to remove the valve plate. I got it all put back together and the truck was idling terribly like it was misfiring. The check engine, reduced power and stabilitrack lights went on and I couldn't drive past about 30 mph (limp home/reduced power mode). I tried disconnecting the battery and driving it to see if that would fix the issues but nothing worked. I thought I was in for a tow and at least a couple hundred dollars in diagnostic time and repairs until I found your video. The plate would not go to the 90° position so i flipped it around and viola! After reassembly it was doing all the same things until I cleared the codes (with my $20 Walmart scam tool) and restarted the truck. Everything works perfectly now! I can't thank you enough!

Awesome video man! Thanks I'm hoping this works on my wife's cobalt !

Thanks so much for this! I cleaned the throttle body on my 2007 Hummer H3, same problem (I removed the butterfly) to fix the issue I simple loosened the Torx screws holding the butterfly and moved it a little, I then verified it would move freely in both directions, re-installed the throttle body and issue resolved! no need for emery cloth, there is some play in the screws that hold the butterfly, just align it properly

He starts getting to the point at 4:09 Idk why no one comentted this earlier

i have cleaned the TB every winter for 3 years now. always went into limp mode in extreme cold. I will give your fix a try this weekend. A new gasket is alot cheaper than the whole assembly.

Your a real man taking shit apart I thought I'd be the only crazy one

It still gets me. The ones I've looked into says it has to close all the way, but on yours it's still open a little. Years ago I worked on one and it closed as soon as the ignition was turned on. Thanks for the video.

I appreciate all you guys who pass the knowledge to us all!! God Bless

Thanks this fixed my problem. My truck was limping after it idoled at stop lights cleaned the throttle body and haven't had a problem sense.

Im gonna go check mine now, Ive been jumpin all over putting new this and that throwing codes but i did take my old one off and had cleaned up same part from a different motor. So Ill clean the original TB see how that works ... thanks.

Dude, you just saved my life, I cleaned that thing for my 2011 HHR, and when I put it back together, ran horrible, I didn't realized that the flap also goes the other way, when I saw your video, I jump to my car and took me 5 minutes to take it off, I checked that flap, flipped it over, so now it could goes both ways, I put it on in another 5 minutes and, VOILA!!! All good now, your video a little slow, but helped me, THANH YOU.

With the video, you can go to settings and adjust the speed to move the video along, good info

Hey man, great video you saved me 160dlls!

thanks bro .. yesterday i cleaned my throttle like you did. and i ended up with (safety reduce performance code) .. hoping your method would correct my throttle ..

Thank you so much for posting this video!! I think you may have just solved a problem I've been having with my second vehicle for a few years that no one could find 👍👍👍👍

Dude get to the point wtf

Thanks for the video! Also, really like your supervisor.

NOTE:.... If your Car / Truck Stalling after Cleaning and replacing all that stuff, etc...... You might want to " RUN " the Engine at " Idle " for a bit, so the " MAF Sensor " can Calculate your Fuel Ratio. Your Engine might be just fine... Just the MAF Sensor has to talk to the Computer. so it can " Re-calibrate " your Fuel.

I had just cleaned my throttle body, and when I put everything back together my car did not drive right codes and the car would go into limp mode, I had watched countless videos trying to see what can help me fix my problems I was having that occurred from cleaning my throttle body. It wasn't until I came across your video and did what what you did because it seem to be the same issue I was having and when I was done my car runs flawless, thanks for the video.

Thanks for posting this...I believe I'm in the same boat...gonna do this fix when the engine cools down

Thanks for the help buddy!

The cat just took the cake bro. Lol

I really appreciate this video because I did the same thing.

Good vid 👍🏻

Having the same exact issues, codes, and symptoms. Cleaned the throttle body twice since it was really built up with carbon and im still having the same problem. Car starts off fine and goes into limp after a few minutes.

Thanks for Sharing Buddy...

The cat is listening....thanks for explaining...

Like the hoody I'm gonna get one for this winter

The Cat.... LOL "Is he goin on about that throttle body again?" :P

Thanks for sharing this👍

Thank u so much ur a life saver for doing that step by step I'm having same issue. Going thru divorce so I'm doing what hubby used to do just. girly style 😂😂.

Thanks!!!! My 05 malibu 3.5 is doing the exact same things down to the codes not clearing. I press the breaks and it shut off.. I was wondering why tf my traction control wouldn’t turn off or anything.. Ima go clean it right now at 3 am lol I’ll comment again to let you know if it works!

thanks for video ill try cleaning mine tomorrow all ready replaced the pedal got a used throttle body got a new gasket ill clean up and re try. I'm getting the dash message on my grand prix starting disabled due to throttle but for would be reduced engine power due to throttle.

Glad I saw this becuase I planned to take the plate off to clean.. Guys who keep it plain when it comes to car stuff feels like walking in the shop

Good Job, nice video

Appreciate the video. Peaches!!!

Thx 4 video, not much about this on net.. on mine the whole butterfly assembly was so stuck I literally used a rubber mallet to get it unstuck

I have same Problem with my colorado I try to clean it hope that helps... Thanks for Help... Tommy

I did exactly what you did and caused myself hours and hours of headache. You helped me solve my dumbass issue instantly the moment i turned the key i knew. Omg i wanna just beat my own ass right now. But thanks a lot man you saved me

Working on a 2000 C5 has all the codes you talked about. It idles really rough in REP mode. I looked inside the TB and it's clean. Checked all sensors and the TAC. Mash the gas and nothing. I don't know, it's a tough thing to figure out. Thanks for the video, I may pull the TB apart...

05:00 and the c30s following. I've had a quick look through the comments and no-one seems to have offered any explanation for this "natural position" of the throttle butterfly. So let me see if I can help: The throttle butterfly has a natural 'rest' position which, if you use live data, will be somewhere around 30% open (on my Saab 9-3 it is 34%). At natural idle the butterfly is at around 10% or so open (obviously these figures will vary from car to car). One of the reasons for this is that the ECM needs a "reference position" of the butterfly that it can use to check operation. Despite what people might think, idle is NOT a reference position because the amount of throttle opening (in %,as we are discussing) will be different at every idle status. This is because factors such as barometric pressure, electrical load (alternator) and ac load are different every time the engine drops to idle. The ECM will be adjusting the throttle to maintain the correct idle speed. Another reason is emissions and fuel economy (I'm considering these together rather than as two reasons). Let's say you are driving along at a steady 70mph and about a half mile ahead you need to stop. At a quarter to a third of a mile you lift off the throttle pedal and the car starts to slow (engine braking, aerodynamic resistance and rolling resistance). The ECM closes the throttle to its natural rest position (about 30% open) and cuts the fuel flow through the injectors. The engine is now a simple air pump and because the butterfly is at an increased opening compared to idle, it is breathing more air than it does at idle. This has several effects, but chief among them is that there is less engine braking than there would be if the butterfly were at idle position. This means you can lift off earlier than you would in a cable driven car and so the car runs along for a greater distance with ZERO fuel consumption (remember fuel is cut off - in a carb engine the carb would be delivering fuel over this same distance). This is good for fuel economy and emissions (of course it is, lol, on any given journey you now have a number of periods where the car is consuming no fuel, reducing the total amount of fuel used for that journey and no fuel consumed also means no emissions during those same periods). You've kept the car in top gear and as you approach the point to stop, the engine speed will fall and at around 1300-1500 (varies from car to car) the ECM will command the butterfly to idle position and fuel injectors reactivate. You press the clutch, the engine settles to idle and you use the brakes for the last bit. During the period of the engine acting as a simple air pump (we call this 'fuel cutoff under over-run' - over-run being when the engine is being driven by the wheels and the cars forward momentum), the air also acts to cool internal engine parts, the turbo turbine (if fitted) and the cat (particularly beneficial if the engine has just been working hard and is running hot as a result). IF my essay made sense to you, you can see that a significant improvement in fuel economy can be had by allowing the car to slow down in gear naturally as much as is safe and practical (being aware of road and traffic conditions) and using the brakes as little as possible. Allow the car to slow down in whichever gear it is in and dip the clutch when the engine speed is down to about 1300-1400rpm. This also reduces brake wear,which reduces costs over time. Don't believe me? Try it! Questions? Ask away, I'll try to answer, provided I spot the notifications. And if you've read this far, why not check out my channel.

If removing the throttle air valve blade, note the front as many have tapered edges. Like a tight fitting door, its outer edge is angled. Fuel enrichment comes from longer injector duration as intake air temp is input for cold start up or coolant temp. Many use both inputs because it does not work like a carb choke.

Dude thank you so very dang gone much. You were so dead on in what you said about both sticky throttle plate and chasing my tail because I've been doing it for a week now. Thank you thank you thank you

Thanks!

Yeah I've already done that twice and it still sticks but cause truck to go into limp mode as well I'm replacing it this weekend to see if it helps

Thanks!! Very helpful

I 2010 GMC Terrain which i had check engine light on dash so i watch on how to clean to with cleaner well all said losen two screws on flaper well i tryed to center by eye so i got all back together started it up now i have REDUCED engine POWER light now iam back in on utube on this prophem so what i learned was in order to center faper you need losen two screws and push faper back the other way this centers faper then tieten scews while holding in this pro

So helpful thank you

To make a long story short don't fuck with the butterfly. You can clean the throttle body without removing the butterfly. Throttle body cleaner, rag, q-tips, done!

You now what that's that video was perfect I'm having the same problem on a pontiac g5 Same exact problem and a car dealership wants 371,00 for a throttle body cause you can't buy the sencer .. that's man

Who cares if he takes a while to get to the point. He’s listening to TURNPIKE TROUBADOURS. He’s good as good in my book just for that fact alone 👍

Hey! Okay so I have this 2011 Chevy Impala LT 3.5 liter. And it is having some issues. And my check engine light is also on. And I’m thinking it could be the throttle body because, every time when I would idle. Or come to a complete stop. You could hear the throttle rattling really loud. And you could also hear it when you are just cruising up a minor little hump. So idk if it’s the throttle. Or if it’s the transmission because my mother doesn’t like to keep maintenance on the car. So I’m thinking it could be the transmission because that kicks often but not all the time. But ever since the engine light came on. The transmission stopped kicking. And it’s just been lagging. So idk if it’s the Tran. Or if it’s the Throttle. I honestly think it’s both!

hey buddy thanks for all that I have a diesel colorado it started with, sometimes when i started the car it wouldent rev over 1200rpm but then go away and run =normally after a short while it wouldent rev at all over 1200 at all I took of the pipe to the throttle body and noticed the butterfly was closed when i cranked it over the butterfly stayed closed. I changed the throttle body over with a second hand one and now it starts and runs but wont rev over 2000rpm Iam not able to plug in a computer and get codes any thoughts please.

Having trouble with mine. Checked all electrical to throttle. Was getting frustrated. I think this could be my problem. Will clean mine and get back to you if problem fixed.

I might be a little slow, what did you do exactly? You jus took it apart again and cleaned the edges? Was that all?

I have a 1999 3.8l Camaro and I'm having Alot of the same symptoms hooked a tester up it reads code P1515 throttle position sensor.. I was thinking if anyone knows more please let me know this videos helped me alot by the way

Thank you

The cat is a paid actor haha and thank you very much

Thank you so much

The best tip for reassembling the TB shaft & plate: push the blade closed when tightening the screws. Better yet, take a VERY thin sheet of something (thinner than paper) to shove in the top & bottom, that will shim the blade and center it since they're set to not touch the edges fully closed.

You can get them for 60 bucks on Ebay ! I bought one for 88 because they give 10 year warranty . There out if Kansas. Another channel took it apart and real good look into it and they do wear . He pit it under microscope and found where the wires do melt .

Had the issue with my 04 Colorado and now with my 08 Sierra. Seems like it only happens when it's cold outside, like the 2 metals expand differently or something stupid like that.

Keep up the good work, ignore all the mouth breathers on here complaining if they dont have the patience to watch a 7minute video then they shouldn’t be working on their own care. And man you saved my bacon I couldn’t find anything on this, I couldn’t figured out why it kept saying this after I took my throttle body off to clean it. It was tweaked up to where it was scraping the top.

Thank you bro.

I've got a 2002 Grand Prix gt and after changing out those infamous plastic elbows for the coolant with metal ones, my car eventually(a few days) seemed to be losing power, but was still driveable.... It starts and purrs like a kitten still, but the engine will not go beyond 3000 rpms and is in one gear...From the articles I've read, it's seems I've discovered gm's LIMP mode.... I did remove the throttle body to get to the one elbow....I didn't notice anything initially, but all this happened fast, as I blamed the limp mode on the PCS(pressure control solenoid), so just got done taking apart the transmission and putting in that sensor, which I"m sure you saw so many people stated fixed their problem.....But so far my car will still not go beyond 3000 rpms and seems to be stuck in one gear, which many have stated is the 'limp mode' to protect the car.. After watching your video, I'm wondering if I did something to the throttle body while cleaning it, without realizing it....I mean why do you think it was your fault? Did you force it to close a certain way? I'm not sure why you say it was your fault? thanks....

what are the good to know thank you something to look into thank u.......

Did you have to relearn the tps again after you cleaned it

my car 05 gtp overheating cooling fan not working so i unplugged the coolant sensor and fan works also i changed the sensor and fan still will not kick on could it be the presser switch/map or no because ac not working any more checked all relays fuse under hood and on passenger door all good i dont get it

hello sir do you have to drain anything like coolant or no?

Forget the haters. Everyone makes mistakes, but cleaning the throttle valve is normal maintenance. If the brass valve is removed, place a wittiness mark on the back with arrow pointing up. The carbon or black gunk is normal unless you install an oil catch can. I do not advocate this as a fix to eliminate cleaning maintenance but many will tell you that normal gasses from the crankcase that go thru the PCV system, blow-by from and worn engine and the addition of a turbo or supercharger increase these gasses. If you race a little when the light turns green, fresh air is drawn in normally, but too much can cause these gases to condense and coat the intake and throttle valve. Putting an oil catch can is fine, but place in a cooler area and engine hoses should run down-hill back toward the engine incase the vapors condense before they get into the catch can. Good ones can run $100+, but need drained and install in a hour. Remove and install on your next vehicle if you trade it off or sell it. Best of luck buddy. Just remember, If someone says they have never made a mistake, they have never done anything. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired

Hello i removed my TB from my 08 Colorado and cleaned it like you did but now when i turn my truck on the butterfly doesnt open when i push the gas pedal, but when i just put the ignition to on and step on the gas the fly opens could it be the same problem?

How do you recalibrate or reset it what do you need or where could I take it?

I'm here to acknowledge the cat😂 that's it

Can the p2113 7:06 sensor paddle stop the car from stating?

Even the car 🐈 was like , hurry up I'm hungry! 🧐 Lol. I was takin a shit watching this, an available finished bfor the vid was over an got to the point!! 😖 💨💨💩 🚽😁

Tanks

I ported/polished a electronic throttle body for a 2008 Dodge Charger (2.7L); and put it back on; now it stalls on idle (while in gear) occasionally and throws a “high rpm in idle” code sometimes. Throttle response seems more sluggish NOT better. I am at a loss and confused.

Thats a good looking shop cat.

The cat is halarious,he should be in all the videos

I have replace the gas pedal and the throttle body and it came back up what else could it be

The slight open position without any power is actually a limp-home position (very limited power, controlled just by spark advance and injectors). Otherwise at idle or more the engine braking the ECU is actually closing it by applying power to the motor.

Good job buddy. screw the duma!!es with there disrespectful comments. It helped me

Skipped threw so much forgot what I was looking for