an occasional chat, share a little gossip, and invite her when you have a barbecue, and you'll have advanced warning whenever someone's been poking around.... also a neighbor who you probably wont have fights with, and a new friend!

@@Gantradies Exactly!

​@@jayschafer1760lol exactly! a few weeks we moved the nice old lady across from us yelled at my wife for putting a bag of dog poop in our driveway as she passed back by on a longer walk. she apologized after she recognized her but I thought it was amazing. free security!

Can confirm.

True. I was once looking at a house to buy and I asked the realtor "so, have there been any home robberies here?" and a little old lady walking by heard that and instantly started talking. "Yes, that house across the street got robbed, that house over there they used pickaxes to get through the door, that house there..." The realtor wasn't having any of it, and at one point tried to physically push her away. I just got in my car and left, but not before explicitly thanking that old lady. But man, that realtor was PISSED! This was in Vrbicany, Czech Republic.

That tends to be more a residential issue. Typically commercial and industrial doors don't tend to shift as much, but as far as residential goes... I hope this helps. As a locksmith myself, who lives in the coastal southeastern US, so large seasonal shifts in temp and humidity, and a lot of old buildings, loads of thick weatherstripping. SOME of that can be mitigated with door hardening packages, as replacing the half or 3/4 screws especially on the hinge side (and even better with jamb pins installed) can make a BIG fairly long term difference once you get into the 4in stainless deck screw range so it penetrates the frame, and also both studs. The other thing I do personally is push deadbolts.. It still amazes me that people trust knob locks on exterior doors for residences. Also (and I don't mean this as a slight, but not everyone in the business knows) learning how to shim a hinge, and investing in a hinge doctor, can make a BIG difference... As well as making sure you know WHY the door isn't latching, is it sagging and catching the plate at the bottom of the hole, or is the door unable to properly close all the way... Two separate remedies. Next is just customer education... I get big surges of "door sag/swell" calls in both spring and fall, especially from folks who recently moved here. I start educating them over the phone before I even go out, as soon as I suspect that's the case. Sometimes you just have to politely explain to folks, "you live in a 60 year old house, in an area that can get 30 degree, and 40% humidity shifts over the course of a day, and you have wood doors (and/or frames), this is just part of home maintenance from time to time."... If you can get the knack for explaining it to them the way WE understand it, without talking over, or down at them, they're usually pretty understanding. I get very few "make good" calls... Maybe one a year, at which point I just eat the cost, because maybe I missed something and making it right is free advertising. Lastly is modifying the deadlatch strike, after making sure it's the right one to begin with... If the door is starting to sag and won't latch and can't be adjusted up at the bottom to get it back in line, grinding out a 1/16th at the bottom of the strike isn't going to effect security on the door... If it's a swell issue where the door isn't dead latching because the door isn't closing far enough, or closing too far and the deadlatch pin is going inside the strike, WORST CASE, I mean we have almost a quarter inch to play with if the strike was installed even BARELY right, and both Schlage and Kwikest both have that backing tab that faces the opening side.. If I need to, I'll either cut it down, or bend it flat and Dremel it down and then just replace the screws with more substantial ones to compensate for whatever BARELY measurable loss of kick resistance the tab provided. It won't impact kickin resistance on a customer grade residential lock and frame either way, but it WILL prevent the latch from being slipped while providing smooth operation.

@@derekbroestler7687 Good points, all. I also make use of 4 inch screws on the hinge side, shimming and/or adjusting the knuckles as necessary, and will also make use of the self-drilling wall anchors (the semi-conical shaped metal ones with the aggressive thread). I find one of these installed behind the top hinge, along with the 4 inch screws will resolve a lot of sagging issues if not caused by the frame itself shifting badly for one reason or another. For industrial applications, you're dead on, the build quality is simply much better, as are the larger, more well funded commercial buildings. In my area, there exist a lot of businesses housed within all wood buildings, some of which date back to over a hundred years old. Many are converted houses, or old sawmills, etc.. Unfortunately, many of the conversions begin and end with the construction or removal of a few non-load bearing internal walls, and a paint job. Small, rural town in the north-east, surrounded by more of the same. I personally prefer it over cities, and honestly think it's pretty cool that we have this many old buildings still around and kicking. I appreciate your detailed reply, and you're spot on with your observations. Maybe I try to provide too much detail when I explain the issues. I want them to have a thorough understanding of what affects the hardware, but maybe it comes off the wrong way. I like your tactic of explaining that it's simply part of the maintenance from time to time. Appreciate the response, thank you again 🍷

@@Ghost_Os I appreciate all your detail 🙏

​@@Ghost_Os I appreciate the response and also that you understood my "tone"... Sometimes it's hard making suggestions to another locksmith because neither of us knows what knowledge the other has. As for the type of buildings and doors you're working on, I know EXACTLY the type. I didn't mention it earlier, but I'm based out of Savannah, GA, so a LOT of old buildings... and locks, to the point that one of my specializations is antique lock keymaking, opening, repair and restoration, and I love it too, but working on older doors and locks just comes with it's own set of problems that a lot of locksmiths in newer areas almost never encounter. I sounds like your setup and knowledge is on point and it's just it's just a customer education issue. I've found that's always a fine line, simply because most people see and use doors all the time, consider them to be really simple, and never realize all of the factors, tolerances, and considerations, that go into good door fitment, even BEFORE the issue of locks comes up. . When I get a call about a door not shutting, latching, hard to lock, etc, I automattically think alignment, so if it's "hard to lock" I'll ask them to open the door and lock the deadbolt with the door open. Nine times out of ten, surprised customer tells me it's now working just fine. That's when I typically start with the basics "Sounds like a door-swell issues, see, doors and frames expand and contract with temperature and humidity, and houses settle, this can throw off the alignment and that can cause a lot of problems as the seasons change... ". Right off the bat they're more inclined to consider my suggestions because I've diagnosed the problem over the phone. Then if they're interested or it seems like they don't believe it's that complicated, I might give an example, like "Most latches and bolts needs to be within 1/8 of an inch of center to work properly, but if each of the three sides of the door frame are 1/32 off, it won't work without adjustment" That might lead them to ask what's involved (which I've found usually means, 'how much'), so I might say "It's hard to say without looking at it, but my service charge is $X, and if it's going to be any more than that, after I look at the door, I'll give you a quote before I begin working on it and you can decide if you want to continue." Also, if they call me for a door that's REALLY bad off, and I do an adjustment, I ALWAYS ask if they have any other doors that "are starting to stick" Since those are typically MUCH easier adjustments (tightening top hinge screws, etc), I'll price them accordingly at a much cheaper rate (or even free if it's THAT simple), and make it a point to say something like, "I'm glad you pointed that out to me so it could be fixed before it got too bad, so in the future if you notice another door starting to stick, give me a call as soon as you notice it." IME, that helps them understand the idea that it's not a "one and done, never worry about it again" issue and that it may just be part of yearly or every few years maintenance in some, especially older homes. Hope that helps a bit.

@@derekbroestler7687 Many thanks for all the additional detail, my friend. I know what you mean about "tone", and making suggestions; I always happy to hear them though, you never know when someone might have an idea you never thought of. I had one customer about 4 years ago who had constant push/pull issues; when it was warm, it would either work fine, or he would have to give it a little extra push while turning the deadbolt. When it would get cold, he would have to pull on the door while turning the deadbolt. Because the weather here is a bit crazy, it was a constant battle for him. For example, a few days ago we were having mid-eighties for highs and lows around forty. Today, our high was 38, and our low will be around 12. When I got the call, it was during a cold period, but knowing he sometimes had to give the door that extra shove when it was warm, I moved the strike about 1/16 inwards, and then made a small cross-shaped slit in the weather seal in between the knobset and deadbolt (I had tiny holes drilled at all four "points" of the cross slit to prevent continued splitting). Sunk a screw into the center of that, and it acted as an adjustable stop. So all he had to do is drive the screw a little further in when it got warm, and if it got to the point where he was having to pull on the door, back the screw out a little bit. Since he never had up and down issues, it was about as perfect a solution as could be had; he could easily adjust it himself as needed, but the screw head was hidden inside the weather seal. Which meant not only was it not an 'eyesore', but the weather seal would protect the door from being marred by the screw head. Ran into him a week or two ago, still working out just fine. If I did it again, I would probably epoxy a rubber washer onto the screw head as an added hedge against damage to the door or seal, but he said it hasn't been an issue. I'm definitely going to be embracing your style of explaining the issues with future calls. It seems like have a really nice balance in providing sufficient detail, without over-explaining. Thanks again, I really do appreciate the time and thought you put into your replies 😊🍷

I dont know about pool room golf course, but as an irrigation tech that needed to do work in apartment complex pool areas. 7 feet of 1/4 inch PVC can get you into a lot of pool areas.

Probably not very.

Pretty easy, if you're thinking of a particular Southern golf club, I suspect...😏😉

You aren't kidding I was at a local brewery for a get together went out to smoke and noticed the back door, the one deliveries to the brew room go through, and thought huh I wonder if they changed that code when they set the lock up. 2, and 4, 3. Handle turns. Guess not. Let the brew master know he should probably have it changed...

Quite easy with a rake pick or a comb pick 🤣

I drive by my work every night after dinner, if the lights are on I go right in and start asking questions

I second this request.

I have had luck with a 1/3 sized metal pan. Used to mess with my coworkers in the drive through when it was slow.

The problem with that is that 0.00% of companies see any value in expending any cost whatsoever on treating people right in order to get better human security when 99.99% of them will never actually be attacked by anyone. And the 0.01% that actually do will just install a new alarm system. As a confidence artist being familiar with human nature, Ollam should be the first to know that his message is 100.000000000000000% wasted.

He reused them a few times by now (and every time I'm like: "I want to hear all the other ones, too!")

Probably amounts to something akin to the doorking exploit or physically modifying the safety mechanism.

That map alone has me wanting to buy him a drink or coffee or whatever if he's coming through my town.

1:30:50 Hell yes! My whole family are ‘fleeing’ FL for MA this summer for this reason!

As someone in a state where those rights are slowly becoming at-risk, I was beyond happy that he mentioned that.

How are they unsafe?

@@davidabest7195I don’t expect that you will receive an actual answer to your question.

yeah, we got a few new stories this time!

👍 Thank you very much!

yeah... having the right tools on you at all times is a help =)

Same

I relistened to that talk yesterday and was a little disappointed he was calmer in his execution this time

+

And yes in NorCal an Feok1 key and a door king keys are on my keychain. In case life goes sideways

Expect that they will fook up.. Humans are lazy, and very often not impressively bright.

Guessing based on current German standards, I'd guess the compromised key was the master for the prisoners' locks. Those are just standard locks the prisoners can use for privacy, so there's no real need to not have all cell doors on the same master. The guard lock on the cell is the important one, and those are probably one per tract without a master.

&? What adventures have you wandered into?

A jail cell?

Same here, he's such a font of information, and he presents so clearly and entertainingly. I'm not particularly invested in any of the topics he covers, I don't pick locks for a hobby, don't shoot or own guns, don't have cause to fiddle around in elevator pits, but I'll gladly watch Deviant talk about any topic that catches his fancy, any time, anywhere.

two things i want to note.. that fucking map is heartbreaking.. but that those letters.. shows the power of knowledge.

Hard to prep for so many different possible kinds of hardware/software unfortunately

@@Shuroii It really shouldn't be that difficult, plenty of conferences handle multiple speakers with disparate hardware configurations and don't have anywhere near the volume of problems that Defcon and Black Hat et al seem to have. For example, you can mandate the presentation format to one or two specific platforms (PowerPoint for PC, Keynote for macOS for example) and require that presenters inform you ahead of time whether their presentation includes audio or video and if so allocate them a five minute slot to test their presentation on the equipment they'll be using on the day. You can either provide a specific machine that all presentations will be run on and require that presenters send a copy of their presentation a day or a week in advance so the organisers can do a test run with every presentation to make sure they all work, or if each presenter is allowed to use their own hardware, require that audio be output via headphone jack exclusively. There should be no reason whatsoever for audio and video not to work under those circumstances, the video component is simply screen mirroring and audio over headphone jack is completely agnostic to whatever hardware is amplifying the sound on the other end.

Typically people love the idea... Until they find out it costs extra..

Jim Beam on ice. worth it. =)