Whilst I agree with other commenters that a crank seal issue could be the problem, Id wager that the issue is weak spark particularly at low RPM, Honda designed these engines with the bare minimum flywheel and magnet 40 plus years ago, to save as much weight as possible in a race application, over the years and the many heat cycles those magnets have weakened IMHO resulting in no idle / poor start , the solution would be to either get an engineering company to remove and replace the existing magnets in the flywheel (preferably with modern neodymium magnets) or find a good after-market one.

It may have compression, spark and fuel, but there's one thing you guys haven't checked. On a two stroke, you need to check for leaks in the crankcase. It's how you find bad crank seals, cracked carburetor boots and blown cylinder base gaskets. Those will all create air leaks that make the bike run super poorly and be hard to start.

You changed the stater but you DID NOT change the MAGNETIC BELL, Remember when the magnets failed in the 670 dragster? That is why you have weak spark. ?

Call Craig. Everybody needs a Craig.

Need to check your crank seals on the engine. If those are bad they will allow more air in and your tune will be way off and also causes a very hard to start issue.

Old 2-smoke guy here-- Engine overhaul. Rings and seals at minimum. Unfortunately, what happens to old carbolated 2 strokes, as the rings wear, they have compression, but not vaccuum. Or crapply vaccuum. So they don't draw into the crankcase worth beans on the upstroke, and they don't transfer the air-fuel mix up top effectively on the down stroke. Manifests as impossible to start, without a ton of piston speed, and terrible idle quality. (Or lack of idle.) Just because of lack o vac. For testing, I personally don't bother with compression testing, a cylinder leak down tester shows how things really are. Pain in the spleen to use, but if you have cylinder leak down over 10%, it's time for a top end. The other thing I have seen on the ols Suzuki Water-bufflos, and Yamaha Rz350's-- If the head gasket is a little old and a touch porous, when you shut the bike off on a hot cooling system, antifreeze will slowly trickle into the cylinders. Not enough to hydraulic it, but enough water/antifreeze to "put out the fire" so to speak. Although, usually a guy gets an over-pressure cooling system at the same time. I know it's a hard pill to swallow, but that's how the old 2's are. This is also why they put in the corner of someone's shed and forgotten about. "It was hard to start, maybe it needs a carb job!" "It doesn't idle very good, I think the carb got some junk in it." Hopefully this helps, even if it's in a few months when you're less sick of the thing. :) If it makes you feel any better, these are my disease. You know how you guys are about the carts, and minibikes, and sometimes they beat you up trying to make them work? That's me and old 2 stroke bikes....

Those reeds were fine, a 2 stroke has pulsating crank case pressure, when the pressure is a vacuum they open and pull fuel in.. When the case is positive pressure it seals the reed cage, the seeing daylight rule is referring to a very large amount of damage

I diagnose weak / faulty spark. You should test and re-magnetize the rotor. That magnet gets weak over the years. A weak magnet produces a weak spark and no spark at low rpm. Plus rebuild the AC to DC bridge and smoothing condenser (which dries out) for ignition primary. Better yet is to measure the primary ignition voltage and replace the stator coil with a small battery (+ resistor). Dont touch the mag pickup coil for ignition timing.

You haven't really tamed that bike, until you can hold on throughout the PowerBand hits lol

I would definitely pressure/vacuum test the engine for for air leaks, not idling no matter the carb adjustments is a good sign air is getting in somewhere it shouldn't. like others have said spark does look a tad weak at low rpm and make sure you guys run 2 stroke engines at high rpm, they dont like to lug down low like 4 strokes do.

Not hating guys, that is not meant to be putted around on..u got a greyhound in an apartment

This dude must have the strongest leg on the planet.

Clean the contacts between the frame and the coil for best spark

Hi guys, and happy birthday, John! Two strokes are considerably more finicky than their four stroke counterparts. If you’re getting into them for the first time it can be an excruciating, defeating and overwhelmingly punishing learning curve. A couple things that the same frustrations taught me over the years, air leaks; I couldn’t see if you guys used any sealant (Hondabond and genuine Hondabond is the best) on the reed cage and the intake. Every surface from the cylinder, the bottom of the reed cage, the top of the reed cage to the bottom of the intake needs a light layer when sandwiching it all together. The rubber gasket alone isn’t sufficient in my experience. Try running an unlit propane torch around the intake at a lower but steady RPM and see if it picks up at all. Not being able to idle it’ll be harder for that test to generate an obvious but well worth it. Two strokes don’t idle for crap with even a slight air leak. Not to mention they’re a lot more detrimental on two strokes. Another source if you haven’t already, crank seals. They’re vital for any engine to live but again, being those seals could potentially be original that would more than cause instability with idling and hard starting being an air leak. Lastly, if your pipe cools off that fast after riding it long enough to get it up to temp, that screams a rich condition. Use a fresh plug and get that thing good and warm, row it through the gears and in your highest gear go WOT for a second, pull the clutch in and kill it. Come to a quick stop and pull the plug, if it’s wet or black you’re way rich, if it’s ashy or grey you’re lean. The ideal color is milk chocolate. Google a plug color chart and you’ll find it immediately. Forgive me if some it not all of that information is redundant but hopefully it’ll help get that thing going easier. Keep up the good work and don’t give up, the end result will be worth the headaches.

Yall need to get that bike in the power band.

If the spark is still a bit weak try switching to a ngk B8ES instead of the BR8ES. Looks like your coil has a resistor boot on it and you also have a resistor plug.

Don't be afraid to try a hotter plug and to replace plug with a new one each time when it doesn't start. Use the choke to start, not the trick. Verify the timing is spot on. Mix seems very oil heavy. Seems that it takes too long to come up to compression.

The reed block has to seal better. The black block side has to be sanded flat around the openings. If you want to fix this bike replace the crank seals if you haven't, check the intake boot for cracks, find a good V-Force reed block if you can't get the stock reed block to seal better, make sure the float level isn't to high. Get new rings and hone the cylinder if the piston is still good. Don't use ethanol gas. Find a good used Flywheel with good magnets.

This channel has quickly become one of those few I wish I had found years ago to follow the progress of things. I’m very new here, but I’m gonna be binging a LOT!

I used to hang around with a lot of friends who had bikes back in the mid 1980s. We had loads of different types, and of course when someone got a new bike, many of us would try it out. Perhaps my favourite of all time was the model 2 Suzuki 250 Gamma. I swear that thing would handle anything. But one friend bought an offroader with a view to get it up and running. A Honda CR. When he did, he took it out and I surely got a go on and it frightened the hell out of me. Across a ploughed field it just went stright through it.

You flooded it you don't need to tip it over when it's warm

So you guys figured it out. Took a while but you got it. The reason it's so hard to kick start is that honda made the start gear to short. That's why it pops soon as you push start and drop the clutch.

check the crank seals its ok

Arm chair quarterbacking is not fair but for what it is worth: you checked the compression but that was the only data you took before throwing parts at it. What is the spark voltage? Is it weak. You said it looked weak but just changed the plug. Spark testers are cheap. How about pressure testing the crankcase? Seal leakage will definitely cause hard starting. Is the exhaust too rich? Exhaust testers are old school and maybe hard to find these days but might give you a clue on what the mixture is when cranking.

Definitely needs a rebuild, it not wanting to start cold but will start fine once warm is a sign it needs to be rebuilt. I promise with a fresh rebuild and it jetted right it will start fine. Yall dont understand two strokes they will act up like crazy if they need to be rebuilt

Always wide open throttle when testing compression. As a bonus, wide open throttle is how you start a flooded dirtbike. Give that a try!

The older bikes like a mix of 32:1 on my '89 rm250 i use VP fuels vp110 or 118 octane. also the older bikes are harder to start unless you get what I have because not much power to make a good spark stock ignition but if u add what I use its an ol school brand "roost-boost" made by answer added to my ignotion system its like an amplifier for the spark plug you'll see the huge difference it makes with how much more spark it makes vs before which by the way it also helps with idling cuz it amplifies that spark ther like $30-$40 on ebay and amazon

It *STILL* sounds like it's rich down on the bottom at idle, like the pilot jet is open too far. Easy way to tell is, while you're keeping it running with the throttle at idle, shut the gas off and wait for it to drain the bowl. If it speeds up considerably before it finally shuts off, it's too rich! I think you may still have mag problems as well. Seeing as that's the original flywheel, it may be getting weak, and need replacing. Also check the timing while it's running (with a timing light). It looks like it may be advanced a little further than the the other stator plate was when you pulled it out. The reed plate looks fine. They will slam shut on their own as soon as they detect positive pressure in the crankcase. Hope this helps!😉

You’re not getting on the pipe like it’s ment to be. It’s a 2 stroke it’s meant to be in the high rpms. Use to have a lt500r that was just a bear to kick start broke my dads leg . I’ll never forget that

*100% Bad Engine ground*, this is why the spark is low at lower Speed , and will not idle Take wiring harness apart and clean it up! check all grounds. I have had this issue way too many times. Or Magnets are junk...

The shop now has CR500 corner😆

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE LOOK UP HOW TO DO A LEAK DOWN TEST ON A TWO STROKE. My 1976 YZ400 had the same problem and it turned out to be a bad crank seal. it is worth looking into.

How about some vintage two-stroke (Yes pedal cranks) mopeds? Puch, Peugeot, Honda, Tomos, Derbi, Kreidler, etc...But built into fast tuned off road bikes for your track. There are a lot of great tire options for "17 motorcycle wheels. Some for "16, like Tomos has. You can make some episodes with Ike's brother, since he's into bikes with pedal cranks..... There are a gazillion engine parts available for European vintage mopeds. You can get 20hp out of a 50cc two-stroke moped engine. And you can find lots of even larger cylinders. 70cc is common, and many use reed blocks. 😉

File out the holes in the pickup coil. Fold a pice of paper an place it between the coil and flywheel pickup. Turn the air/fuel screw out 1.5 turns. You may need to downsize the idle jet. Also in the video he is cracking the throttle when he's kicking. Either don't twist throttle at all or open it 1/4 throttle and kick. Thers other stuff but those are the biggest things for now.

Know a guy that raced those in the CA desert 40 years ago. He still limps, badly... Be careful on that thing!

Not gonna lie. The way Ike eats that cake looks like somthing i would do 😂

Finally a cr500 video

Happy birthday, john

Petition #3 to bring back the 670 craftsman racing mower

I think this bike deserves a full build. It's an Icon, 80's CR 500. This is the beast of 2 strokes. Engine gone through, frame sprayed budget wise, new bars, grips, and then just enjoy... we got to keep them alive or they will be forgotten, just like manual cars.

Intermittent issue seems like a loose Ground; Verify all ground connections. 2 strokes rattle, the vibration w/ trail riding will jostle & loosen all bolts. Could TEST the first ever Odyssey 500!

41:15 - 44:18 You can see the frustration combined with disappointment creating a form of anger that John was doing very well at keeping suppressed within. Most people who become possessed with this form of anger would have the bike crushed by now or tried to blow it up with tannerite or something, but John showed an unbelievable amount of restraint. My Honda 185s 3 wheeler got to where it was doing the exact same thing this bike is doing so I just threw in the towel and sold it. When something gets to the point its effecting one's mental health in a negative way, that's when you know its time to walk away immediately. John needs a couple days off to relax. 😵‍💫

You guys ever take that thing over any sweet jumps?

Back in 1987, I Owned a CR250R !!!!! I Loved it! When I joined the Navy, my parents sold it to pay their bills.

What a bike. I would love to own a cr500 one day, truly a bike every rider and or collector wants.

Hpi ignition ftw. I've used it on all my 480s and 500s. Works great everytime!

It took a while to get that compression up. Rebuild?

I remember the first time I saw one of these in person, someone blasting around dirt back roads. I was blown away to see a 2-stroke dirt bike make so much low end torque and zip straight to red line so quickly. And the sound is AMAZING when they run right. These bikes are bonkers.

One thing that i haven’t heard mentioned yet are crank seals, worn crank seals will cause all sorts of issues with a 2 stroke, i think that the crankcase should be pressure tested

I’ve always been told and it’s always worked when shit floods you hold that throttle wide the open.. it was burble back to life

If you guys would contact dirt bike Fab he'd tell you everything you're doing alright everything you're doing wrong he knows them bikes inside and out

Your spark plug may be too cold. SPARK PLUGS, SPARK PLUGS and more SPARKPLUGS! I raced this bike back in the day and I needed at least nine plugs with me every weekend. I would carry three different temp plugs and dry them out after every run but sometimes would only get 2-3 starts out of them before fouling out and into the trash they went. Hot plugs last a little longer. It's just the nature of the weak stock magnets and poor ignition system which is why we all used aftermarket ignition and still had to tune for the day. As far as the idle, fat idle jet and fairly high idle. It will sound too high but you'll get used to it. Don't give up because you will love that power band for future projects.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY JOHN🎉🎉

It’s all about jetting on a 2 stroke. Owned multiple 500 2 stroke bikes. Once you get it’s jetting right you will have to rejet the carb for every 15-20 degrees.

Back in my teens in the 80's I knocked about with many 'crossers' and it was widely known that if the bike didn't have lights it was a 'race' bike and will NEVER IDLE because it's a safety feature. If your right hand is not of the grip to keep it running, it WILL CUT OUT! Don't argue with me, Google Carl Nunn and tell him he's wrong, He was a kid when I knew his Mum and Dad. My bag was an RM465, a complete beast I couldn't reach from the ground.

Dude, I've hated 2-strokes ever since I was 13... I'm 52 now... When I was a teenager I used to go find 2-stroke bikes just so I could take out the POS 2-stroke and put in a Decent Honda 4-stroke. One that I put together was a 1979 Kawasaki KM100 frame that I put a 1978 Honda XL125 engine into, now that was a fast bike... I "almost" outran an 84 Chevy truck with a 305 V8 on a flat straight paved road. He just barely passed me and he said he was doing over 85mph.

have the stand under the bike when kickstarting. the suspension is eating up your momentum.

If im correct the idle adjustment is by turning the choke in or out and adjusting the throttle cable that air fuel screw should be like 1 3/4 - 2 1/2 out from all the way in

That bike is made for WOT all the time. Find a real long straight and see if you can hit 2nd power band. 😂

Okay got a couple questions and maybe solutions. When you first started it in this video just after you the replacement of carb, reeds, plug, and points. Did it not fire right up? When you park it for the day do you shut fuel off tank? What about emptying the bowl before putting it up? Have you pulled the plug after it shuts off to see how wet it is? And is the carb sitting level according to the bowl? Try this. Pull the plug after you get done riding see how wet it is. Leave it out for the night. Put the piston to the bottom of the cylinder so it can air it out. Turn fuel off and use the dump screw on the bowl to empty it out. If I was to guess the bowl is leaking fuel into the cylinder while it sits on the kick stand over night. It would explain why it fired up first thing after swapping the parts because it was sitting and not loaded with fuel already. If that works try just shutting the fuel off and dumping the bowl. If that works try just shutting the fuel off over night leaving the fuel in the bowl. Also you can try parking it straight up not on the kickstand so the bowl never spills out drawing more fuel. Maybe one other thing that will help try adjusting the float to close a little earlier. Will keep it from over filling and spilling out into the carb and dripping into the cylinder when on kick stand. causing a flooded condition before you even start it.. it won't fire right with a saturated plug. Had a Honda 125 that had same issues. That was the issue bowl leaking while on kick stand. We shut fuel off and dumped bowl nightly never had a issue after that.

yall definitely need to make more dirt bike content!!!

I’m sorry but the way Ike just ate that cake and drank the milk at 19:07 has be crying😂

Its called a bump start because you need to sit down hard on the seat when releasing the clutch in order to not drag the back tire due to compression. Bump start gives you aprox twice the engine rotation for starting. "Higher" compression, single extra large big bore, and 2t you will need higher and longer rpm to start than a kick will give you. New, thats a different story. PLEASE DONT LET THIS SPOIL 2T FOR YOU GUYS! I would love to see more 2t in the future!

Guys if you're gonna store it for a while you should fog down the motor as I used to do with my 299hp Yamaha Saltwater series outboard this will ensure you don't get any gumming up of the carbs (The outboard had 6) and put a good coating into the combustion chamber them put some WD-40 directly into the cyclinder but you do have to remember to remove the plug and kick it quite a few times so you don't hydrolock the cylinder and possibly bend the connecting Rod. Had my boat for 12 years, did all of the work myself and followed what I outlined above and the beast came to life every year without a hiccup and mind you I live in NY so the winters here can get brutal.

I'm favoured, $50K every week! I can now give back to the locals in my communitv and also support God's work and the church.God bless America

I really think you still have an ignition issue. That weak spark in the beginning of the video told the story. The slower you turned the engine, the weaker the spark was. That's why it only starts pushing it down the hill. Test, or replace the pickup coil with a good unit, and make sure you can get the proper gap. Then check the spark again. I'm willing to bet that solves a lot of your issue. Idle tuning is impossible without proper ignition. Good luck boys!

That is a simple bike and motor to work on. You guys do not know what you are doing! You do not read comments. I have told many times how to start that bike. I know what I am talking about because I raced that same bike in open pro class in 85.

You guys should really consider the following, #1 getting one of those start roller things they use for race bikes they use to bump start the old flat track bikes. #2 installing a front HUB motor so you can just keep bump starting the bike.

When the bikes are maintained good, they start no problem. If you know the starting sequence, you have to prime the engine you have to get it into the compression stroke and then you’ll have to jump on it. I was doing it when I was 15 years old our bike always started

Hey guys, I have an idea that I don't see posted anywhere else. Remove the spark plug cap and look inside to see if the internals are removable. It's usually a wide flat head. If it is, you will find a spring and a resistor that looks like a fuse on the inside. These can go bad and cause weak spark and arcing internally or if you have a modern spark plug that already has a resistor inside you've doubled up essentially, all of this can cause hard starting and weak spark. I removed the one on my xt350 and replaced it with a folded piece of 10 gauge solid core wire. It's much easier to start now and idles significantly better.

Happy birthday John. The problem you're having is a weak spark at low rpm. Close your plug gap. You can run as small a gap as 0.12. so start w/0.20 and go smaller until it starts. Try it you might thank me.

I agree,forget the idle,keep it On the pipe,what it's designed for,you're having good fun as usual,keep the vids coming

I would lean towards a vacuum leak either between the carburetor and cylinder, cylinder and case, or possibly crank seals. If the crank seals are the culprit, check the crank bearings for excessive wear. I have found that the exhaust pipe and/or muffler can be clogged causing hard starts as well.

From experience I always carried at least 4 extra plugs,some hot and some cold tip ones. As for the reed valve petals simply turn them upside-down so they seel. 👍❤️

Man, the sound that thing makes.... memories. I had an old friend that had an CR 500 back in the 90s. LOL. he was so short he would have to get on the bike from his front porch. That thing ripped it up though for sure. Seems like his bike went through spark plugs alot too. Fouling them out all the time.

Just a couple things to say, Castor 927 @ 32:1, thank me later! Should have gone with a V-Force reed valve, a new or rebuilt stock carb, Honda part #16100-hn1-A43 Keihin and proper jetting, those air strikers are hit or miss, meaning they work for some but not others (works 60% of the time all the time) where the stock carb with proper jetting cant be beat! You can see as Ike is ridining it, its going lean, rich, lean, rich, lean, rich,(thanks to the carb) hence the wet plug! Happy B-day! And its pronounced (KEY IN)

I had a 85 cr 500, how I got it to start was to rotate the kick starter forward, it takes more of a stroke to get the speed of the kick up enough to start them. The kick starter should lean forward about 20 degrees so it starts the kick at the top

I remembered one of bikes that we abused when was younger. Basically same deal. One of the engine halfs was bit tinged . And this was located between crank and gearbox.

I have a 1988 CR 500 full off the frame restoration I got more money in the bike than if I would have bought a 2024 but it's worth every penny I love the older bikes I'm looking for a KX 500 mid to late 80s early 90s project bike. You guys got yourselves a real power house they just don't make em like that anymore.

When you kick a big bore cold you need to roll it over slow through a few rotations. After slow roll find point of highest resistance then let the kick starter ratchet back to the top of the stroke and give it a full force clean kick being sure not to linger at the bottom of the kick if you value your foot. Been running 500cc+ dirt bikes for over 20 years and as long as they are setup right and stored right the only other issue is a weak right leg... That said your spark does look a little weak and I always rely on my tuners instruction based on my elevation (after considering bike modifications) for my slider clip adjustment and jetting.

John, ol Buddy, ol Pal ... *HAPPY BIRTHDAY* I am not going to offer any words of wisdom because I have clear memories of several occasions when I was somewhere in the California or Arizona desert 10+ miles from another human and didn't have the energy to start my bike. I will recommend a good source of education. While this KZfaq channel is not without a few bad habits, he does possess the most critical of all repair ethics. The belief that if he takes it all apart and fixes everything he finds wrong, it should work perfectly when he is done. Spoiler alert...that is not always the case. 2Vintage is a KZfaq channel I can recommend for anyone who wants to learn more about motorcycle repair. I am not affiliated in any way with ANY channel, but like cars&cameras I recommend a few.

This is a long shot guys, but I wonder if your problem is air leaks. That would always lead you down the garden path with carburation as it's inconsistent with results. I note that how the airbox assembly bolts to the seat frame and when you strike it up the carb rattles around like crazy. Given you've already had reed seating problems, couple that with the fact the seals on the ducting from the carb and from the airbox might not be so good anymore, I would be trying to make sure they're as tight as can be.

With my little knowledge im going to plumb for compression related problem ,2 strokes rely on compresion and the kick start doesnt spin the engine over fast enough.on the compression test it took a long time to build up pressure.you cant set the carb up properly as if it has a vacume leak.i would check the crank seals again .put a smoke machine on it .?

I had this same bike in 1994. I was 10 but looked 18. It was used of course and looked exactly in the shape yours was/is. I was terrified of it for the first yr and my older brother rode it some… when it would start. Then one day I got on it and was hooked for the next 2 yrs. I had the same problems youre having, but had no idea how to fix them and nobody to ask either. My mom finally sold it when I left for college as it had been sitting for like 5 yrs. I wish I had youtube and was mech. Savvy to give it what it deserved.

Love the sound of the big bore 2 stokes. I used to have a Suzuki PE400. It too was a big pian in the butt to get started when it was cold. Got to the point that it was just way easier to push start then spend 10 minutes kicking it over. But once you got it started it too was a beast. Found out more than once that it could mess up your day reel quick if you push it just a little bit too much.

That is a CR-5, not an XR-5, wring its neck, it loves to rev, it wasn't designed to idle or putt about, but be ran at full throttle. Use your gear box, and stay 1 gear down and hang on. Power band is great fun once you find it and tame it. I have fond memories of these and YZ490, but my heart is still with my IT465J.

Imagine having the right tools to fabricate new crank cases to graft 2, 3 or four of those CR500's Cylinders together, 1000cc Twin, 1500cc Triple and the bonkers 2000cc V4 would be highly enlightening

Never throw cheap parts at those machines if you can at all possible help it. Always try to go genuine or close to if you can find them. Also adjust your idle using the cable adjustment on the carb slide cap. Use idle screw only for fine adjustments

I always had better luck with getting good spark out of the NGK BR8EV. The BR8ES was a cheap plug that worked, but didn't last long and run as good as the BR8EV. Another trick I used to do was hot spark it by leaving the plug cap floating off the top of the plug. I agree with the pilot jet being too big. It did sound rich.

Ok Issac, digging the CR500, i have a challenge for the "Cars and Camera" team...take the CR500 drivetrain, source an electric start for that motor, no more kickin that mule, and build an AWD cart with the drivetrain and blister the GP course... Build it, they will come...

I feel so guilty for loving your CR500 content so much. Every time I see it I can't click fast enough but I also know that it's just gonna be a video of poor Ike suffering for an hour with that damn motocross kickin' boot on. Bless you guys for this one.🙏👏💪❤️

I remember on my buddies 500 I could get my foot below the crank case with the kick start, looks like Ike’s foot gets level with the trailing arm and bottoms out 28:00

The AIR screw controls the Idle. ... Once you get it running, turn AIR screw to fastest idle and leave it. Then turn idle screw to desired RPM. ... To read sparkplug, outside ring tells you Low jet (rich or lean) center of sparkplug tells you high-jet.

Pretty funny a mini bike is faster around the Grand Prix than a CR500. Probably has a lot to do with the rideability. Goes to show how fast and far mini bike tech really has come.

I have a buddy that had a kx500. He would bring 5 sparkplug with him everytime he would bring that bike trail riding. The more and more of this video I've watched. The more and more it's the same exact stuff me and my buddy would do to get his kx 500 started. It brings back so many memories from 20 years ago. 😂 Except I had a Suzuki yzf400 quad. Still couldn't keep up with a bike that could run 90mph. But trail riding was a lot closer. 😁

I don't think you are getting enough rotation with the kick, my old big bore 2 strokes would start rotating right from the top with the kick starter. Seems like a lot of slop in the kick start gear.

Just rig up a big drill to start it every time. I had 2 83 Honda 480s. They were just like this… hard to start but once going very hard to hold on too 😅 check all seals and get the hottest spark you can.

Chuck Sun at the nationals and High Point in the 80s he showed everyone what that 500 factory Honda! He was clearing the triple, when no one else could. He could ride the wheels off that , and it was worked bike

1 am and this Old Man from Washington NC enjoying with my coffee ☕. Always a great video guys 👍. One thing for sure y'all put a lot of effort on this bike 🚳. Isaac sorry the GoCart purchase didn't happen yesterday at the auction 😭. Happy Birthday John🎂. Love You Two. 🛵🧔💝💝

Happy Birthday "Ole Man" I hope you had a Good One.... Great Job on the 500, I Love it.... You guys do a Great job of Filming and telling us all what is going on... Thanks for all the Videos my Fronds... From up Kentucky way...