Johann, thank you. I'm glad it worked for you! Enjoy 😊

Hi @wattie60, Thank you. The kit has been available for shipping to UK since launch 😊. The crazy high shipping cost has now been reduced to about half (still not cheap but better than what it used to be). It still ships from Philippines (for now) and ships between 20-25 days. Please visit my store at Santiluib3.com 😊

Thank you for that fast answer@@santiagoluib3

Thank you John. Are there buttons on the TCA that you are not using? Common examples are those two black square buttons on either sides of the Engine Mode Selector. You can freely solder the wires of the mod switch to any button that you are not using and map it accordingly in-sim. In my case, I used the landing gear button for two reasons: 1) I have a separate DIY landing gear panel 2) it's neater for the wire to be in the same unit and NOT having it cross to the main unit to tap on other buttons. But you can do it of course. :)

@@santiagoluib3 thank you for your response! :)

Hi, thanks! Yes I use PLA. As to the pins on the main throttle (square) buttons, any of the two pairs of "legs" of one of the buttons you can solder on. If you do not want to remove the stock button, you can solder underneath the circuit board, but that would mean two actuations: one from this mod's toggle switch and the other from the stock button when pressed. I would remove the button so only the mod can actuate it, and solder the mod wire with a male terminal pin through those pair holes left from the stock switch you remove :) Run the wires underneath the controllers for a cleaner result by drilling holes underneath. For the switch, you can try this: www.amazon.com/mxuteuk-Terminal-Position-Miniature-Dashboard/dp/B07QGDDTWJ/ref=sr_1_6?content-id=amzn1.sym.e2c28ff9-1053-428b-96a0-2b4986391ffa%3Aamzn1.sym.e2c28ff9-1053-428b-96a0-2b4986391ffa&crid=MAPWIDPAPIF5&keywords=switches&pd_rd_r=0c02d100-27e2-445e-a397-c97a3cfba5d9&pd_rd_w=JsUD4&pd_rd_wg=t6NHk&pf_rd_p=e2c28ff9-1053-428b-96a0-2b4986391ffa&pf_rd_r=2Z3DQ66Y61QE92PCPZQV&pid=FlRzCG5&qid=1693624572&refinements=p_n_feature_eight_browse-bin%3A18644646011&s=industrial&sprefix=2-position%2Bspst%2Bmino%2Btoggle%2Bflat%2Bhan%2Caps%2C340&sr=1-6&th=1 you may need to adjust the position of the switch bracket in case the handle is shorter/longer than the one the video is using. Have a go at it! :)

Thanks for the reply. Yes I will be having go. I will let everyone know the outcome. thanks again.@@santiagoluib3

Hi Aili, Yes I have another guide video for alternate wiring so you keep your landing gear :) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qq6in6ylzeCodIk.html

Hi. The throttle detent mod is coming very soon. To your other questions, Yes and Yes. Just identify the pins of the last two positions of that knob. And when you solder it there, note there will be two actuators of the Spoiler arm - the mod and the default knob 😂.

@@santiagoluib3 thank you for answering! I should be able to find that out. Am I correctly assuming, that I'll need an on-on switch for this to work rather than an on-off one like you used? Also, any plans to mod the parking brake to be a pull&twist lever? :) Cheers!

@@Fahrstuhlmusik the same switch (on-off) will do. If you decide to use this knob, i suggest keep it in the 'disarm' position at all times, then solder your new switch wires, one on the ground pin indicated by the little white triangle, and the other on the 3rd pin after the ground. Then on buttton mapping just find that button that corresponds to the pin you used which is the 'BTV' on the controller label. Do the soldering underneath the board, it's easier. And yes, i plan to do that flap lift-unlock thingy too :)) in fact also the Engine start switches!

Hi, thanks! Sorry I didn't quite get it.... By "white ring", which part are you referring to? :)

@@santiagoluib3 Where you put the white sticker to indicate that the Spoilers are armed. You mentioned in the vid that the sticker would get ripped off by the guides. Could you not widen the gap slightly between the guides to accommodate a full white ring around the shaft

Hi@@buuntaa1986 , it's the actual TM enclosure box that has limited gap, not my railing mods. With the addition of the 9mm tube you now have zero tolerance in those gap, so you can actually feel a very slight rubbing against it, but nothing too tight to cause tension. A solution is to file the gaps in that retract position to allow some space on installation and operation. Anyway, you only need to pull the lever up in that position only :) cheers!

Ahhhh thanks for elaborating. Anyway great job with the mod. Why Thurstmaster didn't do this in the first place astounds me.@@santiagoluib3

@@santiagoluib3 what’s your contact info??

Haha yes! Very old Logitech quadrant, but I used just the handle only 😂. There is a toggle switch at the end of the handle that serves as the actual ldg gear switch. This is sort of a makeshift landing gear panel that I plan to upgrade soon ;)

@@santiagoluib3 dude it’s a brilliant idea, after i saw it i thought of doing one myself, i have an old logitech quad collecting dust in my closet, but where did you get the printout of the panel?

@@baderbattikhi3567 i made the panel myself in Photoshop and printed it on Vinyl sticker and stuck on 5mm Sintra (PVC) board. Of course backlighting is not possible with it, but as long as I get the functionality I'm good with it :) If you need the decal, email me at santiagoluib3@gmail.com I can send you a copy :) Cheers!

Hi, it wouldn't know what software you run, so that means it would literally run on any simulator :)

@@santiagoluib3 ok, thank you :)

Exactly my sentiment. Probably to lower production cost and retail price, at the cost of sacrificing important features. But if you look at my mod, it doesn't cost too much, and it works. A serious simmer would probably be willing to shell off another 30-50 bucks on their product just to get that feature.

@@santiagoluib3 No doubt, you added value to the product. You clearly put a lot of thought into your mod, it's is a simple and elegant solution that adds a missing feature at little cost. Well done, sir.

Hi, can you drop me an email at santiagoluib3@gmail.com please

@@santiagoluib3 sure. can check it. thx!

If you do exactly what I did, then yes no more landing gear knob. BUT, you don't have to use that switch as I did. You are not limited to that switch. There are other choices, like 1) using one of those two square buttons on the sides of the Engine Ignition/Start knob in the main throttle unit. Another way 2) in the same spoiler unit (though tricky to do and access and not mentioned in the video at the time of recording), is to use the pin for position 3 in the AUTO BRK selector knob- the knob just below the landing gear. This position (3) is unused in FBW or Fenix. It goes from LO, Med(position 2), 3=nothing, then Max (position HI on the unit). So position 3 is unused, and therefore you can tap the wire there. You can then bind the spoiler arm/disarm on this knob position in the sim control options. I hope that doesn't sound to complex :)

​@@santiagoluib3thanks

If you read the video description above, there are three links where you can get the tubes :) Cheers!

@@santiagoluib3 thanks

@@santiagoluib3 where can i buy the small blue arduino board, the nano?

Hi, I'd be happy to mod it for you. You can email me so we can discuss our options. :)

hi dominic, I am not sure but if XBox supports the Thrustmaster TM TCA unit, then I suppose this mod works there too! The simulator wouldn't know a spoiler mod is there as we're only using one of its existing buttons :)

Thanks. Either you have the 3D parts printed outsource online service, or Ready to install DIY kits will be available soon online :)

@@santiagoluib3 Great to know cheers

Yes, if you're into such DIY hobby, a 3D printer is a good tool. But of course, if you don't want to spend on a 3D printer, it's way cheaper if you buy the ready-to-install DIY kit :) Cheers mate!

@@santiagoluib3 Ah I see I didn't know you could be these pieces already printed. :P