Thank you very much!

Thank you very much

Thank you very much and I give credit to more then just one teacher sharing the experiences they learned

Haha thanks a lot. I will take that and have been called worse

Thank you

Thanks a lot it's really great to hear that

Thanks a lot I appreciate the feedback!

Hang in there, If they make full panels I recommend going that route first as it would save you a lot of time. Also patching if you try and patch close to a body line your risk of warping will be far greater and easier to correct. This was one example of a harder area to weld / metal work as it has no support around it.

That is a good tip and you are correct, personally in what I am doing it just isn't cost effective to go that route

Thanks!

Thank you. If you get to sit down on a system start out with 1/8 to 1/4 mild steel scrap and don't even mess with filler rod. Strike an arch and do straight line runs controlling the puddle with the amperage walking it in a line. If your not welding two pieces together no need for filler. Once you're comfortable with the Torch side of things then you can go ahead and add the filler hand. This will allow you so walk before you start running.

That's great to hear, thank you and good luck if you decide to try it out.

Haha thanks a lot

Your welcome thanks for the feedback and checking it out

You're welcome!

Your right I have also heard about drilling a hole to stop cracks. I also feel when you round your corners it keeps the heat from peaking that area. Thanks a lot for the tip!

Thank you Skip!

You're welcome thanks for checking it out!

Hopefully down the road you get a chance to try it it, thank you!

Thank you and very good input. You are correct on everything you stated with. The rod hardness settings do play a role in it which I did not cover and with the .030 rod usually I twirl up some mig wire which i know would be harder. I do use silicon bronze on usually seams or unlike metals that need to be adhered, however personally I try to avoid it most of the time on body panels being you are not actually welding the metal together since the bronze melts at a lower temp its like soldering in a sense. I don't feel a butt joint would be as strong. Saying that how much pressure will these pieces have so I am not saying your wrong and we all have our styles we are comfortable with. I agree the SIB is so much nicer to hammer out, Thanks again for the input you contributed.

Thank you and great advice, I will suggest it. I informed him this was territory I knew nothing about minus the actual closing of the door handle portion.

@@carthageclassiccars use an electric door openers was popular 20 years ago people eliminated inside and outside door handles and then got involved in an accident that cut power to open the doors and got trapped in the cars and they caught fire they couldn't be saved. Hot rod magazine strongly suggested keeping inside door handles manual not electric

@@mrpurcountry That makes complete sense thanks again for all the advice and feedback!

Thank you very much!

You're welcome

Thanks for the support!

Thanks!

Thank you

Great to hear and thank you!

Awesome to hear and Cheers!

Thanks a lot appreciate you checking out my videos!

Your welcome thanks for checking it out!

I can't remember if i mentioned it but that 18 gauge sheet metal usually I will use red band 1/16 inch tungsten or lately I have been using a CK woldwide "all in one hybrid" tungsten

The car will be unique but hard to not like a old Challenger with a cage and mini tubs that should have a bunch of HP.

The only reason I use fiberglass on metal patches is that is it water proof and won't absorb moisture like most every other filler. A lot of time when MIG welding in patches you can have pin holes in the weld that could get behind filler/ paint and rust. Fiberglass would put a waterproof barrier between the patch and the painted surface.

haha is it sad I had to look up who that is.

Thanks for subscribing. Unfortunately I did not film that repair. For some reason I did not think there would be so much interest in that kind of repair. I think next time I have a similar repair that is needed I will do the filming on it since there have been a few requests on it.

De nada, gracias por mirar. La varilla de relleno que uso es ER70s-2

Thank you very much!

haha yes all the above ...thanks for the comment!

I honestly wish I could give you a recommendation however I don't want to lead you wrong. I have only actually used 3 different machines so far in my life and the one in this video actually was the cheapest out of all of them. Its more of the miller starting ac/dc line but still really pricey for what I have seen the off brand systems go for. There is also a lot I upgraded on this machine that I wasn't really happy with once i really started working it a lot. Look at reviews, the largest price jump I feel is going to the AC/DC vs the straight DC systems. If you know you have no use for aluminum now or in the future a DC only system might be your best bet to get your foot in the door. Thanks for watching and good luck on your purchase if you do end up buying one.

Mike, maybe email me if you get really stuck at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com if this doesn't help. Usually I am around 45 amps on that thickness metal and have the ability to back it off on the pedal. I think you are getting ahead of yourself and need to run just a puddle on some scrap metal first with no filler. You need to learn to control the arc puddle. What is happening is your not getting a puddle formed first so you need more initial heat from the torch with no filler. If you add filler before the puddle forms it does exactly what your running into. The filler rod especially with tacking is mostly to catch the blowout from the penetration if needed. When I run a weld on 18-19 gauge mild steel actually I barely even add filler to it just every so often when the gap is tight. It gets hard as you do need to pay attention working the amperage on that sweet spot with good penetration, walking a puddle, and not adding filler but letting the puddle suck it into itself. I know this was a quick summary of a major technique that takes some months of work to even get usable and years to master. I would recommend watching some 100% welding beginner tutorials before really getting too involved in the art of sheet metal TIG welding. Good luck once you figure it out the world of fabrication is really opened up even more.

Thanks Rick. I appreciate your comments. I'll practice some more based on your suggestions. Mike.

On this since we can get to the back I feel there is no advantage if you were using the silicon bronze. Actually the weld here is going to be a lot stronger since its fused together not glued with the SIB.

I still personally will usually use a TIG most of the time if I can't access the back most of the time. There are spot weld pullers and other ways to get the panel planished out. If there is a way try and plan your cuts around how to get them stretched out. I will Use the MIG fast on edges a lot of times when adjusting gaps.

@@carthageclassiccars Thank You

Rule of thumb for mild steel sheet metal is 1 amp per every .001 inch of thickness. 18 gauge on this door skin is 0.048 inches thick so i set my welder amps to around 45-50.

Haha thanks, I have worked on smaller projects with some people local.

I think the only way for the DYIER to afford something like this is buy the welder and try and learn. Thats how I got started in this process in building cars. I do agree its not like it was back in the day and harder to enjoy this hobby without going broke, but what isn't that way now and days.

@@carthageclassiccars agreed amazon sells stuff cheap enough to at least learn with.

Ill have to work on that more lol!