Well said

Definitely 💯

You're not wrong

I was taught you can't use a MIG machine to weld aluminum (only a TIG method works)... 🤔😕

Someone has been feeding BS

​@@davidbolhathen welding biofuel tanks would take me months with only tig😂, do american academies teach something else beside stick and pipes?

Sure we do it all the time. Just not many videos on it. Miller, Lincoln, and others have push pull systems that pulse.

I didn't learn anything pulse in the late 90's at weld tech. School but yes we pulse mig aluminum all the time

there is no telling what a company will provide as far as cups and trailing shields. I have a friend who tested for an aerospace welding job and all they had was the large diameter gas lens collet bodies. But if the fixture is adjustable, chill bars can be set close to the weld and will often pull enough heat away that a #10 cup is sufficient to achieve silver color. here is a video I posted a while back using a #10 cup showing that concept

I will put it on the list but you will probably be done before I could get it shot lol. But let me ask some details anyway...Is it a tee joint? stringers or weave? and are you required to do lay wire? Any particular size wire? If root goes in good, but subsequent passes go bad , it could be surface oxidation so a gas lens might help along with letting it cool between passes along with wire brushing every pass.

@@weldingtipsandtricks Hi Jody. No worries. I`m sure it will take time to get videos out. I can answer your questions though. 1) 2F T-joint on 1/4 carbon steel plate. 2) stringers (but slight weave) and I`m required to do lay wire for some reason. Walking the cup is not allowed at all BTW. My instructor wants 6 beads. 3) 1/8 ER70S-6 filler rod. I`m welding @ 140amps on a Lincoln Aspect using Hi-freq start W/ a foot pedal. We also use gas lenses on our torches with #6 cups at ~30CFH. Maybe some surface oxidation, but only the "pretty colors" ;) I can get the root in OK, but getting the other passes in is a little harder for some reason. I made on that looked decent, but my instructor is making me keep trying as the beads favored the bottom plate too much. The problem I have is that subsequent passes are not always flowing right. Meaning they do not always flatten out but can crown up too much and don`t tie into each other. He said I might have been adding too much filler metal (not sure how, maybe too much pressure on the rod?) I try to keep the torch and filler rod at about 90 degrees. I`m running a slight push angle on my torch, but currently, I can only get a decent bead if I push the weld towards me a bit for some reason. I also have to hold the torch handle almost parallel to the joint and it makes my hand hot rather quickly. The first pass is put in at 45 degrees and then the torch angle needs to come up a bit with subsequent passes. My instructor said to point the filler rod and tungsten at the center of the root for the second pass. It is such a simple joint, but it is causing me issues for some reason. It is probably a simple fix once I get it, but now it is a little hard. I don`t know what the issue is. My gut tells me some kind of torch angle problem but I`m not sure. I`ll be talking with my instructor about it more on Monday, but I greatly appreciate any advice you can give me. Keep the videos coming Jody. I always love watching your channel. It is always fun and informative, and you were a big inspiration to learn welding. Thank you for everything. Connor

​@@connormarek1028 Don't run 30 cfh on a #6 gas lens, you could probably run 12 and that's more than enough. Turbulence? Other than that, sounds like you're doing things right on paper.

@@Mike-lt6sj Thanks. I`ll try turning the flowmeter down a bit. Yeah, it sounds like stuff is good on paper, but something is out of whack. I`m sure I`ll get it eventually, but I just don`t want to be stuck on one joint for too long.

@connormarek1028 Turn down the cfh anywhere from 10-15 its usually 2 x the cup size could be that the excess argon is cooling down your weld too much and not letting your puddle wet out as well as causing turbulence also if your pass is favoring the bottom plate on any horizontal position I always place my filler higher than I normally would in other positions to counter act gravity that way once gravity does its thing your bead ends up right where you want it hope this helps.

If you mean can you drag the bead along instead of leading it, no TIG always has to be advanced into the filler. No room to do it backwards and the filler would pile up behind the weld, and constantly foul the electrode. You want the arc pointed at the root of the joint, no more than an electrode width off the material being welded.

weldtec speedway sw320

You're conflating two ideas. First, TIG can also be done with a steel clothes hanger, provided it's clean of all paint and grease. It's just a filler metal. But to your base question, you don't need a shielding gas with oxy-acetylene, because you are welding with a gas already, and the combustion of said gas provides a shield for the weld from our atmosphere. It's built into the process, unlike methods which utilize the heat from an electrical arc. The heat of the burning gases also burns paint off your crappy old coathanger, which if done thoroughly, can prevent you from needing to clean it off like you do for TIG, on your questionable repair. All forms of welding benefit from clean base metals and filler metals. No chance for inclusions if you keep it clean. Save the coat hangers for cleaning drains or chinese steel production, and get some ER-70S2 for that weld.