My pleasure, feel free to reach out if you run into to anything and have questions.

Thank you

Exactly if you put enough mud on the floor and use the right trial you shouldn't need to back butter every single tile

7:30 that is more than 95% coverage he did not make any mistakes, and if he did that just on the substrate with no back trowel then yes he would need a half inch

That tile ain’t going anywhere. Relax.

Thank you glad it helped.

Installer preference, i would have went with not dampening the concrete before mud.

The other issue was dabbing thin set in spots where its lower. Look, to be honest, trowling in one direction and to the shortest escape route for a tile like you said is important but buttering back of tile is non essential unless that floor is going to be a national traffic thoroughfare!

Thank you. It’s way worth the extra work

Appreciate that.

Hard to say without seeing it, but from your description I would most likely go side to side.

Appreciate that

Prolite not even close to being #1

Any medium bed works most times, brand is installers preference.

You back butter every tile no exceptions, the size of the floor doesn’t dictate whether or not you back butter and do it the proper way. I set 8,400 sf of limestone about a year ago and back buttered every last one of them.

Calm down Carl! Whatcha gonna do with that sling blade? 😳

I don't use the clips very much. I'm oldschool

Most of my work is mud float.

I am so worried on how they are going to do our tile, floor and decor contractors are going to do ours, wood tile but I dont want any grout lines visible, any reviews or exp with floor n decor contractors??pl let me know

Depends on how tall the ridges are. And if it is stuck good? I typically try to remove everything and start clean

Of course. Thanks

@@Apexjasonmorganllc hi this is smell a Vsion, Husband, question is my bathroom floors chopped up with the cabinet locked in shower and the doorway and I've got two separate dimension bring up with Kyle's different sizes on the opposite ends of the room in order to balance it out up against the wall and I don't see any videos here on KZfaq explaining the best way to do that except for I've come to the conclusion I need to do an offset pattern and find right spacing in the offset the balance it out so that, the offsets don't jump out at you. I also have a KZfaq channel it's a how to channel, I have videos on how to tile a shower I know nothing about tiling floors I am self taught. but tiling floors is a whole nother animal a bathroom showers pretty straightforward although difficult. But I've never really laid in the floor tile until presently trying to figure it out. My channel name is easy to tips and tricks Etc, my phone's charging presently I'll come back with the comment. I look forward to hear from you.. don't mean to be so long-winded thanks for getting back to me PS did you know if you upload one video a week every week KZfaq after about a month-and-a-half will start recommending your channel here on KZfaq?

@@Apexjasonmorganllc how's it going Jason, this is my home improvement how to channel. I'm stuck I'm trying to figure this floor layout out but I really don't have the experience really so I'm in that curve you know you're able to help me out with some pointers that would be great did you know about KZfaq promoting your videos? One video a week every week from they will. If you have any questions ? bye for now. God bless, Ken

What type of material are you using? The dimensions of the tile?

Jason, this is Ken I'm using ceramic tile with maip thinset but my floor is really offset I have my door opening and about a 2 and 1/2 foot wide cabinet and then my walk in shower is about 5 feet so it runs past the cabinet by about three feet or so my bathroom makes a L shape tile a. Floor the layouts totally different from a shower Denise has to be all chopped up I could send you a link to a video where you could see the layout of the bathroom that might give you a better idea of what I'm talking about and I say it's chopped up

Not overkill. Maximum coverage on the back.

I will also flat trowel on the backs sometimes as well. Just depends on application

Apex floor designs LLC/Jason Morgan yeah those were big tiles and I think you said the floor had some dips.👍

1/2 inch trowel is a lot of mud for 12x24. If your subfloor is fairly flat you can get by with smaller notch and that will help.

@@Apexjasonmorganllc Thanks for the quick reply!! I’m actually doing shower wallsand the tiles are running vertical. I’m pretty frustrated with the amount of thin set popping out of the joints. Would you use that trowel size on walls? Thanks

@@Sectionmillionaire-fg8mm I would use a3/8 notch and apply that notch to the wall and also notch the back of the tile. That will give you enough play to avoid lips but should cut down on the mud squeezing out. Also make sure your thinset is a good consistency. One trick is when you place the tile butt the edge of the tile your placing tight to the other tiles and push it into the mortar before you open it up to create your grout joint. That will help with ooze as it will pull the mortar away from your joint. There’s going to be time when you will get some mud coming out, you just have to clean it with a sponge the best you can and scratch it out with a razor knife once the mud is set. I’ll set one day then the following morning before I start seeing I’ll wash and clean what I set the previous day as it’s easier to clean before the mortar gets super hard.

@@Apexjasonmorganllc thanks man

@@Sectionmillionaire-fg8mm did you get a handle on the walls?

I do when they are needed. Yes

These tiles were fairly flat with a slight bow. We kept the joints random so not doing a half stagger helped with lips. It really depends on the tile you’re working with. I do use clips when I need to but not on every tile.

@@Apexjasonmorganllc Okay, that makes sense. If you don't mind a follow up. What is your tolerance for whether to use clips or not? I typically don't use clips on walls, or at least not as many, with higher quality flat tiles. But haven't even tried a floor without tons of clips for quite a few years. Maybe I'm worrying needlessly..

@@markoshun I’ll use clips if the stagger is a 50/50. Or if the tile has a noticeable crown. These days the clips and wedge quality it way better so I use clips a little more often. If it’s natural stone I do not use clips. You just have to the best judgement call for each tile your setting.

@@Apexjasonmorganllc Ok, got it. Thanks so much. I have come to automatically use them. Just threw me seeing a pro tile setter not using them. I do general renoes, so not tile all the time. I used a Mexican hand-made tile on a shower surround once and even had to throw out the spacers.. was fun. I've got some slate to set on this job coming up, so probably no clips on those. Will check out more of your videos. Thanks

@@markoshun thanks a lot for watching! Yeah anything natural stone I don’t use them.

Leveling systems don't make it level. They keep it flat with out lips but not level.

You can't beat a floor that's perfectly level.

@@Apexjasonmorganllc I agree 100%

Still need a lippage system, making the substrate flat before install goes without saying. But i dont care how flat you make the substrate, only way to fix a bowed tile is with a lippage system, even then its not guaranteed. Only time i wouldnt use one is if it was a class A+ tile.

@@hereticxxx9317 I totally agree....you can have a perfectly level tile floor and still have lippage. I couldn't imagine setting long planks without a leveling system. Your subflooring can be perfect and because the tiles are bowed your still going to get that deviation in your head joints and only clips can reduce that.....I know some guys think using them is not for pros or they leave voids or just think the old methods are better, but you simply cannot beat a leveling system for flatness no matter how good you are

I believe they were a heavy 1/16

He is back troweling 3/8 plus 3/8 is well over 1/2

Right

There’s no such thing as “excess” when it comes to a quality tile floor.

Will fail if you do tile instalation

Eder Zamora if thinset is to dry it won’t bond or grab, it was very apparent that the mud was grabbing very good when applied to the floor and the back of the tile, also that trowel I was using puts down the same amount of mortar as a 1/2 notch. The end result you are looking for is the amount of coverage you get to the tile.

There’s not a lip on any of my jobs. And if the mud was to dry it wouldn’t bond and you can clearly see it grabbed hard. I’m a 24 year tile setter there guy.

You don’t make money on call backs and problems either I’d rather invest a little more time on the install and give my customer a very solid floor.

So stay home lazy in the couch

@@marcopoulin1897 are you a professional tile setter? Do you back butter smaller tile or subway tile?? 🤔 🤭😆

22 years in the tile trade

Apex floor designs LLC/Jason Morgan I have been tiling 31 yrs and your video was great for people to learn from,ignore the haters.

I’ve been tiling for six days!!! Alex is no professional. I am!!!