Hey Bruce: I went to Northerntools.com for both the pump/reservoir and the control valve. Pump is a #1261009, valve is a #RD2575T4ESA1. The cab locks are Power Packer #LH50000104. They have a website, PowerPackerUS.com that could supply everything you need including cylinders. May not be the cheapest, but I like their quality. In case you haven't seen it, page 7 of my showcase website, www.vintagetrucksbarn.com/, has some decent pics of the tilt mechanics. Yeah, you can definitely spend some serious hours on this stuff! 4 years in this project and that was just the running gear! Hang on to that 7.3! I sold my 2000 a few years ago and still kick myself!!!!!

Did some scrounging on the web and came up with a source for the cylinders. I'm sure they're foreign, of course, but they were off the shelf in a variety of stroke lengths making the design phase easier. I didn't show them in this video, but I did add a pair of smaller air bags between the existing front leaf springs and frame for the sole purpose of augmentation. The air was already available due to the requirements of the transmission. That 1 ton lump of iron for an engine & tranny sitting squarely over the front axle kinda took the steam out of the front springs!

+enginenut5 Please give us a tour of that sometime. It would be cool to go to total air ride.

All toll, about 4 years once I decided what I was going to do with it. Wanted to keep it as original looking as possible, but also use vintage for the mods.

Haven't yet, but can as the weather improves. Will try to cover the linkage both in and below the cab.

Sorry I didn't get that into this video. The steering is made up of 4 U-joints plus a slip joint in order to keep the steering intact, though unusable with the cab up. Brakes, clutch and throttle all stay with the chassis in a "pod" that mates up to the floor of the cab when down, as do the stick shift and e-brake. This allows all the hydraulics and mechanical to remain undisturbed. All wiring is required to flow through a main harness along with any air lines, all of which flex around the hinge points of the cab near the front. Problems encountered with the steering design almost killed the project at one point!

Hi Ramin: Actually both in original factory form and my modified tilting form, the cab is rigid mounted to the truck frame in both the tilted and lowered positions. There is spring suspension between the frame and the front axle which is unaffected by the cab tilting. However, the steering is modified to bend and stretch when the cab tilts or is lowered to the driving position. All other controls remain in normal position with the frame. I'm hoping to make another video shortly explaining this.

Thanks Moins, for your time and efforts.

Unfortunately, the website was taken down July '17 after 20 years, but I do still have the content on my system(s). What exactly is it you're interested in? I'll paw through the files and see if I can find what you want. Note: I'm making an effort to put together a possible slideshow series that will bring back the info I originally had posted on the website. So far, have not been impressed with the software available out there.

I've finished a new website showing all the things done on the truck. Check out www.vintagetrucksbarn.com .

For access to both the engine and transmission, and due to the size of both, a tilt cab was required. Since all potential connections with the cab needed to flex with the tilt motion, several things (brakes, clutch, shifting, throttle) were modified to stay with the chassis, and only the steering and electrical were required to flex. The steering linkage was the most difficult to design.

By coincidence, I just a day ago established a new website. I will be updating and posting my build pages (about 11 with around 300 pictures) from back in the days of the build. I don't have the support software I used to, so it will take a little time to get it all put together, but it's in the works. www.vintagetrucksbarn.com

Jump over to www.vintagetrucksbarn.com . Most of it's up now.

That's an Eaton/Fuller RTO-910, a 10 speed (5 & 2) with the overdrive option done. Way more box than I needed (capacity wise), but the price was right!

@@enginenut5 2 speed rear?

@@WARD5KUSTOMZ I wish. Original single speed 5.62 gears only. OK for the local runs, but would be nice to have something in the mid 4 range, tho this would never be out on the highway.