Yep

Glad it was helpful! I'll have to try X-ray mode. I tend to rely on using "k" to see back edges, but they're hard to see sometimes.

Glad it was helpful!

Merry Christmas.

Thank you. Glad you found it helpful.

You are welcome! Glad you found it useful.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Jon! Glad it helped. If you ever hit something you can't figure out in SketchUp... challenge me with a question in the comments here and I'll do my best to figure it out.

Thanks!

Glad you found it helpful!

Moron!

I'm using Sketchup Make 2017. Free version. On Windows PC.

First, you're correct that the way to have it NOT affect all the other instances of the component is to first "make unique" on the component you wish to modify. This will add a suffix (I forget exactly what, but it adds a number to the end of the original component name to indicate it's a variation of the component) and it becomes a new component. The act of "make unique" already makes it a different component so there's no need to "make component" again. You might wish to rename the new component if you want the component names to really indicate the function.

I don't think Sketchup supports that kind of parametric associativity. I think you'd have to manually adjust. However, if you make use of components you can select several components at once and choose "make unique" so that the set you selected are still copies of each other. That way you could minimize the amount of manual effort required.

I am using the free version (the downloadable one in the video description link). I'm almost sure that the step you're missing is making a component. If you're copying a post and only the face is coming, you likely forgot to make it a component, OR, you may have entered into edit mode for the component before making the copy. First, make the entity, then triple-click to select all connected entities, then right-click to turn it into a component. After creating the componet if you use move with the Ctrl option to make a copy, it should take all faces of the component when making the copy. Similarly, when using the materials, if you assign a material to a component, all faces of the component will get the material color assigned. If you haven't made a component or if you enter into edit mode for a component, assigning a material will be done onen face at a time. I suggest going back to the start and very carfully watching the part about creating a component.

@@SalemWoodworks Thank you for the reply. I did make a component.. but I did get a better result when I went back and realized I pushed the foundation up instead of down

This is a simple question with a complicated answer. I'm certainly not an expert. For the three fames I've been working with (one built, one in construction, and one in planning stages) I've relied on existing designs. The design in this video came from the North House Folk School's "build your own small frame course". I'm planning on building the 12x16 building from Will Beemer's book (amzn.to/3i8Mhqp).That book has some information about timber sizing. The truth is that it isn't simple. Sizing timbers depends on their function, the frame design, timber quality (splits, knots, grain orientation), species, ... it's a moderatly complicated science.

@@SalemWoodworks thank you sir

Sadly, there is nothing simple about this. Structural requirements vary by the beam type and loading and strength properties of the timbers vary by species, cut and quality. For simple building like this frame, you can rely on tried and true sizes that have been used in the past, as they are likely overdesigned for such a small structure (overkill by design). For more serious structures, lean on engineers or seasoned experts.

@@SalemWoodworks There are tables that refer to common dimensional lumber uses and capacities. One would think there would be similar information for timber applications common to timber framing. "Overkill by design" equates to waste which one can ill afford, especially these days. Few can answer the questions directly as to why a specific dimension of timber was applied for this component or that. Appreciate the SketchUp tutorial though; very useful and helpful.

The direction you drag makes a differrence. If you drag your box from left to right, everything that is entirely inside the box is selected. If you drag from right to left, anything that is even partially inside the box is selected.

@@SalemWoodworks Thank you for replying. Actually that is not the case. I have tried many times to drag from either side and still it does not select as you have shown. I think the problem is as in your vdo 09:12 when you zoom in on the edges around the tenon the lower three edges are auto highlighted in blue and red. I do not get that in my case. I do realise though that trying to solve my problem like this is difficult. I appreciate you taking time to do these layout and framing tutorials and will use them to come up with my own plan. Thank you again good sir.

My first guess is you've forgotten to go into edit mode before drawing the rectangle that you push. First double click on the post to go into edit mode, then draw your rectangle, then push to form the mortise pocket.

I’ll give that a go. Thank you

That was it. Foow

I've heard of a plugin called TF Rubies from some folks in the Timber Framers Guild Community Discussion Group in Facebook. I haven't tried it yet myself.

@@SalemWoodworks Yeah man. Thanks. I was able to talk to the guy who made it. Will be trying it out, soon. Thanks.

Select Window Menu>Default Tray>Show Tray

Since the weight-bearing edge of the brace is at the far end, it's not critical to cut a mortise pocket that's angled on the inside face. In the frame I built, the mortise pockets for the braces were actually cut as I've drawn them in this video.

I'm no expert in 3D printing, but I don't see why not.

Except these timbers actually come from the mill a true 6x6.

Okay I figured it out. I didn’t follow your steps. I kept triple clicking on the post which then kept selecting the original post. I just needed to select the post once. Then I could flip the one post individually

Glad you figured it out!

@@SalemWoodworks Thank you, I appreciate you checking in. However, I am almost here at the tail end of replicating this build, but I noticed the mortises made in the Girt and the Posts for the tenons from the knee braces were not made as an exact opposite of the tenons. I understand the way you made them will fit the tenons on the knee braces, but I am wondering if I were actually cutting the mortises should they complete enclose the tenon instead having some empty space between the mortise and tenon?

Good eye. Structurally, it matters very little. The important load-bearing face is where brace meets the bottom face of the mortise. You're right that it might be cleaner if the mortise pocket were the negative of the tenon, but it's easier to cut the mortise pocket perpendicular to the beam/girt/post face. On the frames I've built, I've cut the mortises like you see in the model here.

@@SalemWoodworks Thank you. I didn’t know that. That will make assembly much faster and easier in real life and in sketch up. I have finished part one and I’m on part 2!

The braces in this simple frame were not housed. This is one of the frames built in the "build your own small frame" course taught at the North House Folk School.

Thank you for the quick response! I appreciate the effort you make to help us with this program.

I know... just heard it the other way too many times growing up. Now saying "sow-na," sounds like I'm trying to affect an accent... lol

To each his own. Granted, I come at this with a CAD background. For me, I enjoy the futzing and I find it makes me quite productive. I enjoy the old school drawing as well.