Thanks for watching. Good luck with the repair. 😎👍

@@RCinginSC Thanks, going to be interesting. First time soldering. Going to practice on an old board before I try it for real. You should start a service shop! Be happy to use your services. Be safe.

Thx but I'm sure after some practice, you will be just fine. Just be sure to use plenty of flux as demonstrated in video. I like to use the Ruby Fluid soldering paste. You can find it on Amazon.

@@RCinginSC will do

Where did you buy the replacement antenna? Mine just snapped today as well :(

Sorry to hear that. No worries. Simple fix. Take your time and you'll be back flying in no time. Thanks for watching and have a blessed day . 😎👍

Very nice. It's really pretty simple . I'm sure you'll do fine. If you have any issues, just leave me a comment. I'll be happy to help. Thx. Have a blessed day 😎👍

Thanks brother. We all good. Hope you are too ! Happy Easter.

Thanks. You would be more qualified to do this though with all your experience with shielded cable and such. You probably could have explained it better. Thanks though. 😎👍

Glad it helped 👍

@@RCinginSC It helped so much that I got to switch the vtx to a foxeer lollipop rhcp. You definitely gained a subscriber

Thank you for all the support. 😎👍

Thank you 😎👍

Yes sir, all true. Steady hands is a must. 😎👍

😎👍

So glad I could help. If you have any questions feel free to message me. 😎👍

Thank you I definitely will have some questions in the future Im going to build a race drone soon.

This was requested. I didn't plan on it. But happy to help those who seek wisdom ! Lol. 😎👍

Sounds great. Good luck. 😎👍

​@@RCinginSC Got the quad going again works like beut! my first time soldering anyhting lol, thanks for the straight foward vid to help.

@@Jackrichardsvids hey brother. That makes my day , I was just getting ready to hang it up for the night and saw your comment. I'm so glad it worked out for you and that I was able to help. Great job ! 🤘😎👍

Oh btw, you should post some flight footage . I'd love to see it. God bless brother. Stay safe.

@@RCinginSC Hey man check out my channel, I just posted some flight footage with the tinyhawk!

Glad to hear it 😎👍

Thank you. 😎👍

You're welcome 😎👍

I hope it helped. 😎👍

I'm very glad. Thanks for the support. 😎👍

Thank you 😎👍

Yep, not too bad a job. 😎👍

I hope this helped you

Thanks Ray. Hopefully this helps the sub that asked for it. 😎👍

@@RCinginSC I hope so buddy. It takes a really steady hand also. Great video. 👍👍👍

@@electroddxful for me it's my eyes more than my hands. Lol 53 yr old eyes. Lol.

@@RCinginSC 😂🤣😂🤣I'm 50 and feel the same my eyes as well. I been doing electronics for many years. Ever since I became a ham radio operator many moons ago.

@@electroddxful I feel ya brother. If it were not for my trusty magnifying led lamp, I couldn't do these kind of repairs. Although I couldn't use it on this video because the camera was in the way, so it was especially hard for me to see clearly. I actually used the monitor on the camera most of this video. Lol.

375 C is where I like to be. If it weren't for my trusty LED magnifying lense lamp , I wouldn't be able to do these at all.

Yes, if it's soldered on like the TinyHawk FC then yes

Thx buddy 😎 👍

There's really only only style suitable for a receiver Antenna. Heres a link to a 10 pack. www.amazon.com/10PCS-100mm-Receiver-Antenna-Replacement/dp/B07JFZDYVS These will work. You will need to cut the ipex connector off and prep the end to be soldered to the FC. You may be thinking about the vtx antenna which you could swap out to a Circular Polarized antenna. But the RX antenna definitely needs to be a linear antenna tuned for 2.4 GHz. Hope that helps.

If the original antenna is unrepairable, the you can purchase these and you will have to prep them as described in the video. www.amazon.com/10PCS-100mm-Receiver-Antenna-Replacement/dp/B07JFZDYVS

Either I don't understand the question or you typed something wrong. I'm not sure what you're asking. What exactly are you trying to do?

This is what I bought a while back. www.amazon.com/iFlight-Receiver-Antenna-Generation-Controller/dp/B06XGD445X These are replacement antennas for XM+ and Rxsr and others but you can cut the ipex connector off and cut it to the size you need. It already has the active element stripped back that is calibrated for 2.4ghz. It appears to be RF113 cable if you search for it in bulk. Hope this helps.

Yes ! Absolutely. I posted a video over 2 years ago on how to add an XM+ to a tinyhawk and the steps will be nearly identical. Here's the vid kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8ikZqSX06iylHk.html Since you're adding a FS receiver, some of the steps in the video won't be relevant to you. But basically here's what you do. If your FS receiver has 3.3v then find the 3.3v pad / ground pads and solder those wires. If it's 5v, then simply solder to 5v pad instead. (Pretty easy ) Next. Find the spare uart pads. You may have to connect to betaflight and see which uart is not being used in ports tab. Probably uart 2 , but definitely check first. Since I'm not familiar with FS, I don't know whether it has a rx and tx pad for telemetry or a single wire for outputting signal. (Non telemetry like the frsky xm+) If it's a telemetry receiver, then connect the tx pad from receiver to rx pad on FC and connect rx pad from receiver to tx pad on FC. If it's a non telemetry receiver, then just connect tx pad from receiver to rx pad on FC. Then in betaflight, go to ports tab and under the "serialrx" column , go down to the spare uart you connected to and make that selection active by clicking the slider button. This will automatically override the spi receiver. DONT FORGET TO CLICK SAVE AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE SCREEN. At this point you can connect to betaflight and under the Receiver tab, you can verify if you are connected by moving the sticks around and watching the channels on the screen. You may need to have a battery plugged into the quad in case the FC does not power up the receiver when plugged into USB alone. Obviously at some point , you will have needed to bind the receiver to radio. If betaflight is showing stick movements, then you're done. Button it up and go fly. If you still do not have stick movements, then first, double check all your steps first. Be sure you're bound and the connections are correct. If you still do not have stick movements, then go into the CLI with quad connected to betaflight, and type " Get serialrx", press enter. You should see a line that says "Serialrx_inverted=off" OR "Serialrx_inverted=on" If it's OFF, then turn it ON by typing "Set serialrx_inverted=on", press enter Then type "save" , press enter If serialrx_inverted is already on, (unlikely) then do the opposite by typing "Set Serialrx_inverted=off", press enter Type "save", press enter. If none of that gets you connected, then change the "serialrx_inverted" setting back to what it was and drop me another comment. I have a friend who runs flysky who I can put you in contact with who may be able to help if all else fails. Goodluck, and drop me a comment if the video doesn't help and this procedure doesn't help. We'll get it sorted out. -Brad

Yes. Absolutely. I have a 20 pack of spare XM+ antennas that I have used to repair an SPI rx Antenna in the past. Simply cut off the ufl plug to the desired length while being sure not to cut or damage the active element on the other end. As long as it's a 2.4ghz antenna , that will definitely work just fine.

Absolutely ! Just cut the ipex connector off and to the length desired while leaving the active element untouched. Strip the end that will solder to the board as per instructions in video and you're golden. It may even improve the range. If you screw it up , just snip off the end again and start over. If you need help , just holla. 😎👍

No ! A "lollypop" or CPA (circular polarized antenna) is used for the 5.8ghz video , not for the 2.4ghz control signal. You would need to put a similar whip antenna back in place of the damaged RX antenna. But the vtx antenna could certainly be replaced with a lollypop or CPA. It will add weight so keep that in mind. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. 😎👍

RCing in SC my vTX antenna broke right above the bulge on the antenna and I don’t have a soldering iron, is there another way of fixing it?

@@MichaelNelsonYT sorry to say bro, but not really. Don't be intimated by it though. There's plenty of inexpensive soldering irons on Amazon. Just practice some before you try to do it. There are tons of soldering tutorials available on KZfaq. I know you can do it !!! 😎👍

RCing in SC thanks man! I’ll try my best, it’s a great quad!

Yes. That will work. Just be sure to only supply the camera and vtx with 5v each and simply connect the video out wire from the camera to the video IN to the VTX. You will not be able to change the VTX channel/band via smart audio but you can still change it with the button on the VTX.

Thanks for speedy reply appreciate it!

Yes you can . But as I mentioned you will still have to prep the end that will be sodered to the board. You will simply cut off the ipex connector and size the antenna to whatever length you want as long as the active element remains unchanged. Just remember...2.4ghz will all be the same. As long as the active element is 31.2 mm it will be tuned for 2.4ghz.

Please like and sub if you find this useful. 😎👍

@@RCinginSC Awesome... thank you sir... liked and sub'd!

@@ChristKrew-Rev1.8 thanks brother. Btw. I may not know all the answers but I'm always willing to help if I can. Please don't hesitate to hit me up if you run into issues. Have a blessed day. 😎👍

@@RCinginSC Will do. Yea my eyes failed me and put a press on prop on the wrong whole and it burnt up an esc on the 1s aio.... now all that is available is the the frsky aio. Live in learn. Thank you again as this will help until Kabab gets his 1s board made.

The TH has three aux motor pads next to each connector. You can de-pin the motor leads from the motor connector, strip them back, tin the ends and direct solder them to the board.

@@RCinginSC Thanks for the reply, I would rather not do it that way ( unless there is no other way ) [soldering those tiny pads/wires are hard to do ] I was hoping to know if that connector on the board was glued to know for sure, I assume I can just place the contacts where they need to go and glue it down and see first...will solder IF that is the only way...LOL...but Thanks for letting me know how to do that...

@@FlyingBuzzard the plastic connector on the board just presses over the 3 pins. It's just a press fit. I would not use glue

@@RCinginSC pins are still "in" the brown/tan plastic connector so not sure what to do...can I remove the three pins and solder them on the board and then slide the plastic over them? They look like the pins are attached to the bottom of that plastic piece ( not sure )....even at that those pins are tiny, they do not appear they were ever soldered to start with ( quad worked tho ) Thanks again RCing in SC

Honestly, my first advice was the best thing you can do. Just cut the motor connect off and strip back 1mm of insulation and solder the motor wires directly to the aux pads located on each esc next to the board connector. As a matter of fact, for better performance , you can do all 4 motors that way. I'm not sure what other advice to give you since the pins have been pulled from the board.

No. Replacing the antenna has no effect on binding or the internal flash. Thx for watching 😎👍

@@RCinginSC awesome, thanks man this a great video, super informative. subbed

@@Jackrichardsvids Thank you for the support. Have a blessed day. 😎👍

Since the tinyhawk RX is a D8 RX , it's my guess that the range issue is solely because of binding in D16. You can certainly install a D16 RX. I did a tutorial vid on installing an XM+ . Look on my tutorial playlist for it if you need help. The only issue with that is if the xlite pro is the new ACCESS protocol, then you will need a rx with ACCCES protocol flashed to it.

Also, if it's not ACCESS protocol, then I would just put an XM+ in it.

One more thought, will your radio bind in D8? I'm guessing not or you would have done that .

in fact, my radio does not connect in d8. i will follow your tutorials. thanks you were very kind 👋

I would double check everything and go thru the binding process again. You can also bind using CLI commands. Maybe the bind button isn't working. Also be sure you're binding in D8 mode. Hope that helps.

RCing in SC definitely binding in D8 mode. The bind button seems to be working fine (blue LED goes solid when pushing bind button). I haven’t been able to figure out how to bind through CLI. When I give the bind command I get an error :( I’m too frustrated to look at it any more tonight (those damn motor wires really gave me a run for my money)

Lol. This hobby can drive a person crazy sometimes.

That's not much to go off of, but I'd run thru the basic checks, 1) are you certain the VTX and goggles are on the same channel? 2) is the VTX antenna damaged or missing? 3) have you changed props ? Sometimes a bent prop can cause so much vibration, that it will bleed noise into the system causing electrical interference in the video. 4) be sure all the motors screws are snug. Same reason as #3 5) be sure the camera is secure and nothing damaged. Try going thru this checklist and see what you find.

So glad, had this problem for over a mounth and it just was a loose motor bell..., But i am still getting video brake up when i land cause of Vibrationen

Vibrations are always tough to solve. Perhaps spin one motor at a time while connected to betaflight (without props) in the motors tab and see if you hear any vibration or odd sounds like a bearing noise. Quite possibly the camera sensor is loose inside the camera . Not common , but it does happen and the only way to trouble shoot that is try another camera. Save that for last if it comes down to it. Glad you found at least one problem. If you still need help, just holla.

Hi, I don't have the freestyle 2, but I'm pretty sure the FC is nearly identical and the repair would be exactly the same. Was there another repair you were interested in ?

Lowe's, homedepot and Walmart all carry flux, but you have to be sure you're getting pcb rated flux. Thanks for watching 😎👍

So for a VTX can I just get a foxier Liollie ooo and dice the end up solder it on

You certainly could , but be aware that even the weight of that antenna will be a significant addition in overall weight.

@@RCinginSC what do you recommend

@@timmytson1 www.amazon.com/SRA-Rosin-Paste-Flux-135/dp/B008ZIV85A

That's easy. Just order a new baord. Lol. Yea, that beyond most everybody. Hardly worth the trouble if you had the equipment. Sorry for your troubles. Thx for watching.

@@RCinginSC haha yea or do what I did... Buy a Mobula7 👍🏻😁

That's what I did too. Lol 😎👍

Hi, can you paste the link to where you got your Mobula7 please? I live in NC

@@trianglesky380 I got mine from Racedayquads.

Can you not just take the props off and the motor screws out and pull the FC out with the motors ?

Actually i just looked at some images, maybe that would be pretty tough. If the motor wires go through the body the same way as original TH then yes, definitely a pain in the butt.

Yea i would have to mark the motor wires to keep track of where they go aftet i remove them its definitely a gonna be a pain in the ass i just picked up a weller 60 watt soldering iron from lowes hope this thing works.

I guess i could desolder two of the motors and flip the flight controller over to one side

@@Takeover738 good idea. Motor plugs sure would have been nice huh ?