Mr Pete, you do such a great job explaining things. It makes it such a pleasure to watch your videos.Thank you.

Mr. Pete, thanks for your preparation time to make this video possible. It made sense and it was easy to understand. No doubt in the early days it took immense trial and error to get a reliable design for these drill chucks. Thanks for passing on your knowledge. Understanding how the intricacies of mechanics and machinery are key to reliable and successful outcomes of ones efforts.

Thanks Tubalcain I never been inside of a chuck before, good info.

Thank you! I've wondered how to do that. I've got a few that need some attention and now I know how to go about it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Fantastic video. My neighbor gave me some older chucks like you show. Now I can clean them. They just feel so solid and so much better than the new ones. Norman.

My Lord my friend you have embraced technology you are spectacular technology needs to embrace you thanks for the help

Another Great Vídeo by my Favorite Shop Teacher. Thank You

Informative vid, well worth the watch. Always wondered how they worked Thanks for posting.

Always a good learning experience. I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.

Lovely little sensitive drill and great video as usual !

I like how you get directly to the point! Very good, informative, and clear videos! High quality information and instruction. I appreciate all of your videos!!

Thank you for sharing this information. This is the kind of Info. that is soon lost if we older generation don't take the time to pass it on.

Another GREATvideo Pete. Thank You again for being a great teacher. Thank You

Thanks for showing how this chuck works. I always wanted to know what is inside one of those and you showed it all. It all makes sense now. I will probably never take one of these apart but I do have a better appreciation for the Jacob's chucks. You also show how they are attached to the tool and how to dismount them. I have learned a lot from watching your videos and have a lot of stuff I did not know what they were for like the wedges to dismount one of these chucks. Thanks!!!

I don't recall ever seeing someone make a drill chuck. A considerable undertaking I would imagine..

Thank you for the video! I have several 1/2" chucks that are jammed up and need repaired. Now I know how to get them apart!

I have thought about those chucks and wondered how the heck they are made so this was really fun to see.

Thanks for the instruction. Helped immensely.

Well you solved a mystery I have had with that demo thanks Lyle

Informative, and, interesting. Thank you!

Another mystery solved thanks mr. Pete.

that's awsome Mr. Pete. thankyou

I always wondered how they worked/looked on the inside but didn't know how they come apart. ( not that I ever needed to, was just curious ). Excellent info; thank you.

Well, now I can take all the extra Chuck's that need real serviced and good cleaning, thx Mr Pete, Bear

Very good demonstration. Thank you.

Great video, thank you for teaching so much in so little time.

I watched this when it came out. Today, I had to reference it to help me with my Atlas |#1020 drill press. I purchased it used and I am trying to make a more precise hole to install some larger wheel studs. The chuck originall would fall off and I used some valve grinding compound to lightly clean up the taper and was successful in getting the chuck tight on the shaft. I just dismantled the quill and cleaned up everything and it is looking good but I must mount the shaft in my lathe and dial indicate the shaft to see if I have a problem. Next, I will be taking the chuck apart and will purchase new jaws if needed. With new bearings, this should spin truer than for the past 20 years. Thanks Lyle for posting all your videos.

Nice video, very informative. Thanks for putting it up.

very informative, thank you

Thank you Mr Pete

My only comment is I deeply appreciate the videos and instruction. You teach better than most of my former teachers,in all my attended schools!! How is it possible you have not been recognized as a top tier instructor? I realize it is probably not in your nature to self aggrandize,however you should be granted Living National Treasure Status!!! the precision and ease with which you Instruct. You should be teaching other teachers in the fine art of instruction

I watched this a couple of years ago , back for a quick recap before I start work on a bad old Jacobs.

Thank you for this video. In fiddling with drill chucks in my woodworking shop I've learned to make correctly sized - what are they called? - disassembly collars? - with a single bit fly cutter and that the easiest, most effective materials apt tp be found in a woodshop are sheet aluminum and Micarta. Even baltic birch plywood may prove too soft to resist crushing while trying to push Jacobs' tapered parts apart in a good metal vise.

Thanks for the demo

cant wait for the next one!

A warning about disassembly! Mr. Pete, I like your videos so much because you remind me of my junior high school shop teacher. your voice, accent and tone are amazingly identical. Except Mr. Jones (was my teacher) he was always yelling "Stay out of the Aisleway boy! Can't you see the yellow line" and he'd be pointing at your foot that was barely touching the line. These were safety zones for machine operators. LOL! I just want to say that I could not figure out how they come apart. then I saw your video. you said all you need to do is press it out. just back the jaws up and do not press on the jaws. As soon as I heard that I said that's right I have an Arbor press. Ran out to my shop, I backed the jaws up all the way and used a ring spacer on the back part and pressed. crrrack !!! oops I broke the teeth on all the jaws and the nut! Don't back them up all the way! just enough to clear the front part of the chuck body! it was a good chuck, but in my plan, I didn't need the teeth or the nut anyway. I'm going to repurpose the taper attachment and make it into an ER collet. No worries!

Mr. Pete, I love your videos and hate it when you get hateful comments. But, you really got me this time. You didn't mention the incredibly important fact that you can't have the jaws all the way in when you remove the collar. I just watched your video and commenced to destroy a very rare 633D chuck. After it was too late I saw in your comments people trying to warn others about this problem. This video should be removed and redone to prevent more people from destroying their expensive chucks. In your vast collection do you have any extra 633D or 633C collar mount chucks for a drill press? I need one in the worst way. I know you mean well and at least 99% of your instruction is correct information, thank you for that!!

THANK YOU...for sharing.

That was cool. I used to do machine and tool and die work and I never even thought about how a chuck works, much less re-build one! Thanks for a great video and I just want to say that you have a great voice. You sound like a TV star I just can't place who. Everything you say sounds interesting :)

great video as always!

Great video very informative

Helpful! Thanks!

Mr Pete, Though I never trained in the field of machine shop engineering, I nonetheless am very interested, and love watching you videos. My field was audio and television servicing - I served a five year apprenticeship for my vocation. Repairing audio and television is no longer done any more. I was surprised to see and hear Jacobs chucks are an American company (which are now global), I always thought of them as being British. Jacobs Chucks was a long established manufacturing business here in Sheffield, England, where I was born, and still live. Though the factory closed down sometime during the latter quarter of the twentieth century, two of my late uncles clocked up over sixty yeas of employment between them at Jacobs Chucks. Strangely, though Jacobs have long since gone, the old factory building is still standing , and is used for some other purpose. Many old, very ornate factory buildings, some dating back to pre-Victorian times, have been demolished which in my way of thinking is very sad since I would have considered some of them as worth preserving as an important part of Sheffield's tool, steel, engineering, silver wear, and cutlery manufacturing heritage. Regards, Phil

Word of warning. On the Jacobs 2A/2B chucks, you do NOT want to retract the jaws fully before re-installing the outer shell. It will chip the teeth on the jaws when you press it back on if you do. Instead retract the jaws just below the face of the chuck. Learned that one the hard way.

@mrpete222 It is good folks like yourself that I grew up learning from in the 70's and 80's. It's a shame that schools have removed shop classes to save a nickel.

Excellent video

SO HELPFUL .THANK

Thank you for this information!

Great video.

Very nice teaching.

Fantastic video

Thanks for sharing sir...

Thanks for sharing.

I know this is an old video so you may not answer, but there doesn't seem to be any reason, if you're just cleaning it, to simply soak the chuck in say mineral spirits or paint thinner, work the jaws in and out to clean out the dirt and grime, blow it out with air and run some 3&1 oil in it running the jaws in and out. Kits are expensive but so,s a new chuck. You pay 150 bucks for a half inch drill brand new and a new chuck costs 100 bucks crazy. Thanks for the video. Very helpful.

Now, I know why I never finished a "servicing" of a drill chuck many years ago, when I was young and thought I knew "everything." Now, I'm older and even "wiser," so I just buy a new chuck (or even a new drill). :o)

a lot of keyless chucks are junk but the all metal jacobs brand keyless chucks are actually really nice.

Whilst agreeing with the comment below about Albrecht, there is a price to pay for that German excellence. Also Mr. Pete, the biggest challenge I found when taking my Jacobs apart was replacing the jaws using the drawing which did not seem to match my old jaws. Kindest regards. Jo

Thank you. I had heard of the fractured nut but have never had one apart. But soon will the one on the drill press at work is getting hard to close on smaller sizes i shall attempt to to be a hero are zero soon.

hey mr. pete, after watching your last version of this i tore mine down, interesting details, the main body is not hardened (and come to find that some one used the wrong key, buggering up the key hole at the verry bottom where the jaws pass by, thus why mine was being goofy, a round bastard file took care of that). but it is a ball bearing body, so the only difference is above the jaw driving thread ring, is a pair of races, with a cut out in each one to slip the ball bearings into.

Love that little domore drill press. Heck of a machine. No video on it?

That was a good clear video and I learned something from it. Thanks for posting it. By the way I figure the jaws have a linear gear down the side so it was clear what you meant. If linear gear is not the correct term then it ought to be.

That's interesting. I have a couple that could use an EvapoRust bath and a little polishing. I'll have to think how I'll press the collar off since I don't have a metal lathe; maybe I'll use turned piece of hard maple.

How can anybody dislike Tubalcain's videos? I don't understand it.

Thank you!!

I watched your vedio! I backed the jaws all the way back put in pres ? The ring caught the end of all three jaws DESTROYED MY WALKER TURNER CHUCK! DONT BACK THE JAWS ALL THE WAY BACK. Gene Inman

Thank you Mr. Pete. I have an old chuck, from a 16' drill press, that locked up on me. Perhaps there's hope if I can locate it.

Dr Pete, What do lube your chucks with? Do you have a video on Albrecht chucks and Albrecht knock offs? My favorite is not holding bits well.Thank you so much for the wealth of info and enthusiasm!

Thank You

Thank you again

Cool video didn't know that you could rebuild a chuck. And I agree that the new keyless chucks are absolute junk. GW

I never knew that sleeve was pressed on. Good design. On an older or damaged chuck... Is it recommended to true up the three teeth with a fine round file (like a chain saw file and drill) in its assembled state?

Never seen a chuck stripped down....very interesting and damn that's a lot of work for a machine to make, no wonder they cost so much. If it was me buying a powerdrill today I'd split my funds, half for the drill and the other for a decent chuck. Those keyless ones are garbage

You can get good quality keyless chucks too. Röhm makes some very nice ones - the Extra-RV for instance. I agree it's too rare to have great chucks on drills directly from the factory but in the keyless vs keyed it's not because the keyless is cheaper. It's because customers demands it. These days time is money and especially with drills used professionally they don't want to mess around with a slow keyed process. I do however agree that often keyed chucks are better quality than keyless for a given price. I've been looking like hell for a better chuck for a small cordless drill I have as the factory one is horrible - have a bad runout. Have looked everywhere but it's very difficult to get one that fits. It's 10mm but with 1/2x20UNF thread and lower diameter is quite narrow as the drills clutch collar sticks out over the chuck. Found one for a better drill in the series which should be good - at least enough for a hand held drill - but that one costs as much as a new drill. At my work I can buy some of the Röhm chucks at great discount. So I've settled for a keyed one - very good quality Röhm made in Germany and it only costs (me) a few bucks - retail price is higher. Same length as the original - many other keyless are quite long - but even a little bit narrower. A small drill you typically also want as short as possible. A bit odd retro like looking but hey if it's great :D I would have preferred a keyless one. Less time to change drill/bits and no key to mess with but it's about impossible to find a good one fitting.

similar to old polish ptrk chuck, the difference is you have to push the sleeve the other way, and the scroll ring (also in 2 pieces) is a part of the teeth ring where the key goes the thing i would like to know is, how to keep the chuck from rusting i live in humid area and no mater what kind of oil or polishind work i put into it, it always rust with time.

I like your idea of making "Witness marks" You would think the manufacturer would make them standard

tubalcain, im trying to speed up production on my manual lathe. noticed you had a morse taper tailstock turret, i was wondering if you had a BXA style morse taper tool holder, and if you would demonstrate drilling using the carriage on an engine lathe with the mt3 turret

great video, i've since disassembled a couple of my old jacobs chucks, cleaned them up. they operate much much better one of my drill presses has a "supreme ball bearing" chuck, any tips on that one? it came on a 1946 beaver drill press(made in canada)

I was gifted some old machinist tools and I made a quick video about them. If anyone can tell me what some of the tools are or if anything is worth anything I'd really appreciate it.

Mr Pete, Can you resurface the old jaws and reuse them if they're worn? I'd assume you'd need to grind the surfaces that mates to the drill to the same #'s on all 3 jaws? Maybe you could make a fixture to locate and hold them while you grind them?

Very interesting way the nut was dealt with. I wonder if BMW borrowed this idea when they "pioneered" the big ends of some of their conn rods?

I have a 633C chuck, when I put it back on the press, the collar pulled the spring clip that holds the collar on the chuck out of its groove. Do you have any suggestions for the best way to re-install that clip? Also, how tight should I make the collar when I install the chuck on the press? This happened when I was tightening up the collar.

Off topic, but I have the exact same little Dumore sensitive drill press that's in the background. Still manufactured, but really pricey.

Wish I was a student back when you were In Your prime, also like when you beat a subject to death 🍻

Think it's not worth to repair if one has to buy new parts. I have 3 Jakobs, 0 - to 1/2" which I bought about 35 years ago...the only problem I find is the key doesn't fit well...too loose, the round, 5/16" diam. engaging part not long enough. About 15 years ago I welded it up..made longer to fit better, now worn out again...I cut it off, drilled with carbide and reamed, pushed a 5/16 dowel pin into and cut longer, better then original...working good again.

All that I can say is: "The krappy De Walt key-less chuck on my battery powered drill motor holds on to the T25 bit that drives coated deck screws in the fences on the ranch, now that my wrists can no longer drive nails. That is what I need. Ron W4BIN

Thanks! I am disassembling and cleaning some vintage Jacobs chucks I have on my machines. I have a 34-02, a 34-33, and a 7B. Do you know anyone who has vintage US-made rebuild kits? I know they are like a unicorn these days, but I don't want the Chinese-made jaws in my nice, old chucks. Any sources you are willing to divulge? I really need a kit for the 7B - the two 34 series chucks are both doing pretty well. But one day they will need renewal, too.

Mr. Pete, Good video, however I wish you had done it with an uncut Chuck so that people can see just how tight the assembly really is. I know you did mention it but a full demo with an uncut version would have been a bit more realistic. Also instead of notching witness marks into the face of the Jaws, I would have read the instruction sheet to viewers that shows how to figure out which Jaw goes where - just so some viewer does NOT notch Jaws and then blame you.

Who needs a press? I just took apart a Jacobs 36B with a hammer and a punch. Now to clean this thing up and see if I can't get it running right again.

Good job. You should summarized in the short time of your job by sequential manipulations.

I have a cheapo HFT 10$ drill with keyless chuck, IT JAMS the jaws.

I am not afraid to admit that I really like keyless chucks, especially Albrecht type but even the cheaper ones on Dewalt drill motors. With a modern reversible tool, who needs a key? IMHO, some types of nostalgia are misplaced.

Dear Mr Pete, The problem is that my ring is stil a ring it has never been broken. It took me 1 day to get the taper out and another day to get the sleeve off .... i asked my old neighbour a retired welder looked at my chuck and he said ... you must put in the vice and get your 14" Ridge on the keyhead. Then turn it loose .... then you can remove the jaws. The problem is that my ring is stil a ring it has never been broken. It took me 1 day to get the taper out and another day to get the sleeve off .... I tried but the chuck rim just cutted my welding handgloves i am using big vice. I cant say what brand it is the marks are worn out.

Mr. Pete, I think that you have repeated a recently posted video - just a heads up.....and not a criticism. Keep the videos coming.

Firstly thanks & secondly the story, I recently acquired (today) a keyed Drill Chuck, its chicom so a healthy deburr & greasing is in order, but how dose one disassemble it? Then I thought Tubalcain! & shore enough Tubalcain showed me how.

very interesting thank you. Any chance to see a couple of different chucks and compare them to each other.

Did you ever run across a Jacobs HP-100 precision chuck for tear down? If so is it like the "normal" #34, 14N, etc chucks?

Hi again. Another great informative video. That tiny drill press in the background is similar to my Mini-Max drill press. Mine has a Jacobs No. Oo chuck but no key. I bought it at an estate sale in poor (abused) condition and I am attempting to bring it back to working condition. Have you any experience or info on this model? I did a quick google of the name without any luck. I would sure like to see an original picture or drawing showing the complete unit as some parts of mine have been lost. Thanks for the great channel.

I completely deadlocked a chuck by letting a small bit get between only two of the jaws off to one side, by mistake, then tightening it. Of course it was evident once turned on... The real damage became apparent once i tried to take it back out. After seeing the prices for rebild kits, sadly, i bought an import chuck for 5$ new in Houston... Its still on the drill press & the deadlocked jacobs is in its box...never could get it apart. Maybe ill try again now that I've seen under the hood.

if jaws don't come together right, just swap any two jaws and it will be correct.

Tubalcain can you show how you originally pressed it apart?