Absolutely! Originally, the Alaskan Mill was only used with 2x4's or just a slab of wood. A ladder is another great option as well and we suggest that to those who can't afford this set. EZ-Rails were created for those who had the budget and wanted to set up and level their first cut easily and accurately. Happy Milling!

actually steel tubing works great - just heavy, but smooth less flex - I have seen modular aluminum used by others. all a little better than a ladder [less flex] heavy tho :(

I actually took the concepts of the ez rails and adapted them to my ladder sections...that old extension ladder with a crushed end that the kubota ran over turns into a great 12 rail system. Pipe/fence clamps modified to make dogs and the leveling bolts...I greatly thank GB for their innovations.

torx, allen, nut head - avoid straight screws avoid phillips types also

sounds good - we used steel tubing with steel angel iron across and bolts to keep it leveled as we did our 1st cut. no flex, but heavy

Sorry to hear you didn't like the EZ-Rails. What about them didn't work for you? Thanks for the feedback!

@@granberginternational After taking 30 min to adjust the leveling screws, they back out instantly as the chainsaw moves down the wood thereby ruining the level. They need to be locked in place with nylon lock nut style setting.

Thanks for the comment! The rails are extremely strong, extruded aluminum and should never bow while using them. The important part is to make sure down the length of the log, that the rails are straight. You achieve this by adjusting the leveling screws. But straight is not level. Once the rails are straight, then you level across the log using the leveling screws again. Now if the log can easily be moved and it is relatively even in diameter end to end then you can first level the log by using spacers of some kind, 2x4s or 4x4s or whatever pieces of wood you have around. Once the log is level, you can then use a level along the length of the EZ-rails. However, since many logs are not in position to move it is unwise to do so, thus the utility of the Alaskan Mill to allow you to cut in place! In this situation the EZ-Rails need to be set up as above. I hope this answered your question. Best, Granberg Team

Removing the bark is a tip we find quite helpful and that is because a lot of dirt and rocks reside in the bark that tend to dull your chain much faster . Not having to stop milling and sharpen your chain can save you a lot of time.

If you are going to mill a 30 inch hardwood tree, you need a lot of power, and a ripping chain will make it a whole lot easier. The Stihl 880 has enough power, but is not a beginner saw, or a beginner price. Depends where you are, but in my area there are sawyers who will mill for you on site--yes, it is costly, but you pay for their skill, time, and equipment, and they will get the best lumber out or your tree in a reasonable amount of time. If there is good access vehicle access, you may be able to take the tree to a small lumber mill--assuming the tree has a long straight section at the base, and is of a desirable species.

Shoot us an email at info@granberg.com and we can give you some tips on that!

I add a deck screw(s) through the other holes in the cross pieces to produce tension on the leveling screws. They also add additional security should a dog pop out.

We have also found that the backout can usually be counteracted by setting the screws, then the dogs, then releveling the screw, making sure the leveling screw makes solid contact into the log. This should create enough upward tension on the dog spike to prevent that walking out of the screw.

we used steel tubing with steel with bolts to level with a couple deck screws (just because) - much less flex [the log/dogs would be a great addition] those should help. *uh yeah we made our own rails as none were available 40 or so years ago. ;)

You could add a nut to the leveling screws and snug them up to the square stock they thread through. Would essentially work as a double nut does.

Good question. It is not a necessity however, it is helpful in making sure the whole setup is square. It could very easily be done without a square though.

it helps us that are picky about the dimensions. our first efforts were thick and thin until we paid a little more attention to our guide rails. :D

What's most important is measuring from the center of the log to the top of the rails on each side and making sure that distance is the same. Then you sight down the log, and using a level down the length of the log isn't necessary if you follow the first step. Then you level across the bars where the 'leveling screws' are at. Do that at all the screws. Then go back and hammer in the dog and recheck with your level, making any minor adjustments needed. Also make sure the leveling screws are tight in the log. ( you don't want them coming out while milling - and you can ensure this by screwing the leveling screws in first and then hammering in dogs - that way the dogs lock in the screws) Hope that makes sense!

yup our old rails were steel tubing welded with cross bars that were also ez to level with bolts :) [the pitch kept them from rusting] lol

We are always open to feedback from our customers, can you please email this idea to lindsey@granberg.com and I will share it with our engineering team. Thanks!

We do sell longer leveling screws (6") for those who need them. We never push our First Cut accessories on folks, our only goal is to make the milling process easier. Many people use ladders and thats great! Whatever works for the customer works for us. These rails are extremely strong as well as being light weight, so they are easy to manage and easy to set up.