Thanks so much 🙂

Glad you're enjoying them, thanks! 🙂

So happy to hear! I'll be doing more video editing vids in the future 😀

Coming to this video a bit late, but something I think was overlooked was that there really isn't a need to be using a 24 fps timeline for non-slow-mo footage. A lot of sports and nature documentaries are done in 30 fps vs 24 fps which is more "cinematic". I shoot a lot of my slow-mo in 60 fps and then use a 30 fps timeline. In this case, the camera only needs to drop every other frame and the numbers work out cleanly and so the footage looks fine. If I was on a 24 fps timeline, then yes it would be all jerky and look weird as it would have to drop frames more unevenly. But there is an easy way to hedge against the downside. Obviously restrained by the constraints of your overall project, but I just stick to 30 FPS timelines because I'm not stuck trying to replicate movies from the 1930s. ;)

Thanks so much, happy to hear 🙂

Happy to hear, thank you! 😄

Happy to hear! Thank you 🙂

Thanks so much!

Glad you enjoyed!

Watching videos and getting deep into nature for shooting wildlife has also sparked my desire for shooting video as well as stills. I never cared about video until now.

Thank you 😀

Happy to help! Goodluck with the video 🙂

Glad you enjoyed!

Happy to hear, thank you 🙂

Thank you!

Happy to hear 🙂

Glad you enjoyed!

@@StefanoIaniro Yeah of course but I need more videos like this with full details...

Thanks so much for the kind words! And yes, I can definitely elaborate. Let's say you film all your footage in 100fps, and then go to drop that footage into your 25fps timeline (without slowing it down), in order to match the clip frame rate to the timeline frame rate, it'll drop 75 frames per second from the original clip. If there's not much movement in the video, it may not look like a big deal. But if you had a clip where there was a lot of movement, the footage can look quite jittery. (As an example, imagine if you had one of those animated flip books with 100 pages, and somebody ripped out 75 of those pages. When you go to flip through the pages to animate the image, it wouldn't look very smooth). So it's just something to be conscious of when shooting at higher frame rates - that if you don't intend to slow down the high frame rate footage, it may look jittery once you place it in the timeline. In terms of setting up 100fps on the S&Q mode, I'm not too sure about the a7RV, but on my a1 it doesn't appear to have an option for that. For f-stop, I'm usually shooting my aperture wide open but I use focus magnification and focus peaking when manually focusing. Not sure if you're familiar with these, but focus magnifier will "punch in" when you're manually focusing so you can see your subject more clearly while focusing. You can use the joystick to move around the frame until you're on your subject, and then adjust the focus accordingly. And I also use focus peaking, which is a setting where the camera will highlight the in-focus areas of your frame with a specific color (you can choose this color in the settings). I had these settings on my a7rIV, so I'm sure you'll have them on your a7rV. Hope this helps!

You can do them on any footage. How much you zoom and pan will depend on your personal preference and the quality of the footage. If you have really clear footage with minimal heat/environmental distortion, you can zoom in a lot more than if your footage has heat haze or your subject is really far away.

@@StefanoIaniro Thank you. The keyframe concept that you should will be a huge improvement for me, so thanks for sharing this info. I hope you continue to share your knowledge and experience. You have a really good and clear presentation style and you are definitely helping a lot of people.

@@PictorialWhispers Happy to hear, Tim! Thanks for watching!

That's a male Ruddy Duck! Such a beautiful bill!

I use Cine 2 for most of my video. It's sort of a middle ground between a picture profile that's totally flat and one that's mostly color graded. Slog2 is definitely useful for more flexibility when color grading/better dynamic range, which is really great for wildlife. But as a day-to-day profile, it takes me longer to properly dial in the color grading for slog footage, which is why I mostly stick to Cine2. Also, slog can be trickier to expose properly in camera, so if you plan on using it, be sure to get some practice in before going out in the field!

​@@StefanoIaniro Thanks, Yeah i heard some tricks when using slog2 is to expose 2 stops over and to set your zebras to around 70 and try to Expose that your subject is a little under the threshhold that shows the Zebra and also to add a little saturation so it is easier to bring the coulors back in Post. Ill be trying more Video out for shure the next weeks! Great Video, got me motivated a lot!

Yes, the key is really pushing your footage to the right of the histogram so you're "overexposing" the image. The most common mistake is exposing normally and then having to increase the exposure in post, which introduces a lot of noise. Goodluck with the video work 😀

Very informative video, thanks! I would have a question as well regarding the shooting process...you said that you shoot in cine 2 pp. But how about the exposure settings? Do you aim for 0.0 exposure or do you eventually overexpose the scene so that your subject is correctly exposed?

Yeah the little camera icon below the preview

Yes, depending on the situation. If it's a project for a company/client, I will. If it's for KZfaq I'll usually use one of the Cine profiles for quicker turn around.

@@StefanoIaniro awesome! Thanks for the quick reply. I appreciate it. Great videos

@@QCshooter758 No worries! Thanks so much for watching!

You can, however if you do that, then you're committing to all your footage being in 60 fps. Which means you can't slow down that 60fps footage, and you have to play all of it in real time. And secondly, If you happen to film a clip in 24/30fps, you can't add that to the timeline without the footage becoming very choppy. So personally I would slow down the 60fps to 24/30fps and get the benefits of slow motion and smoother footage, rather than editing in real time at 60fps. Just as a reference, most movies/productions/shows are edited in 24/30 fps. Hope that helps!

@@StefanoIaniro thank you! And thanks for the video!

Thanks for watching 🙂