Wow.. you have an impressive stable of bikes… you should check out my latest videos on my new custom steel bike.. now that’s smooth… thanks for watching..

Nice collection... I have the Axiom XX now with just under 50K mi and it still rides like new. The Aerios was hit by car, so not so lucky. Sticking with Ti, I need a travel bike and No 22 has the best de-coupler on the market, though I think Seven has the superior tubing manufacturing.

I have 6 ti bikes Seven Seven Moots RSL Eriksen Titus Mosaic And no car

Hi Charles.. many thanks for checking out the channel and commenting on your experience in sourcing a custom Ti bike.. not sure I am done buying bikes, but if I was to pick one and be done it would be another No22 or similar boutique Ti design house… be well, Matt

Agreed..100%.. thanks for watching.. new video coming soon on the additions of a new bike!! carbon? Ti? steel? 👍🏻

Damn!! You're going to love that bike!! There really is something very special about Ti - I hope you love it!! Thanks for checking out the channel!! Matt

@@mylifeon2wheels1 Thanks! I've enjoyed your videos (really like the music editing too). As a Canadian (and Ottawa) ex-pat in Germany, I really wanted to ride around on a Canadian bike. I was delighted to learn about T-Lab.

@@JWFloyd I have heard great things about T-Lab... No22 is kinda Canadian.. kind of... I bought mine directly from one of the founders, Mike Smith who is based in Toronto - some good CanCon right there!!

Hey, thanks for watching.. yeah, finger prints are a thing with Ti bikes.. ROJ really struggled with his.. check out my vlog on my replacement bike. I went custom steel and couldn’t be happier…

Hey thanks for your feedback… I am getting a custom steel bike designed right now and will be interested to see what they say about the head tube angle as I did mention the toe overlap issue with my No22 Ti frame

Hey thanks… going to be interesting to see/feel the difference between this Ti beauty and the new custom steel bike I have coming in a few weeks.. thanks for watching!

Thanks for your comments!! I certainly have a steel bike on the cards for a future purchase.. check out Mariposa boutique steel bikes out of Toronto.. super sweet!!

First world problems, indeed!! Thanks for watching!!

does the squeal go away after a while? is it because of the heat generating from applying the brake on the descent? thanks

Thanks, Harry.. I recall one ride around Ottawa on the No22 and the roads were in brutal shape.. I felt every crack and bump in the road. And I thought it odd that the ride of the Ti frame would be similar to that of carbon.. stiff and unforgiving… but maybe backing off the tire pressure and having wider tires may help with the crap road conditions us Canadians have to endure!!

Hey Luke.. ah the marvels of the KZfaq algorithm!! Excited for you!! Do you mind me asking why you decided on Titanium? Thanks for checking out the channel!! Matt

​@@mylifeon2wheels1 I was planning on buying a new road bike this year as my old bike is a bit of a frankenbike (it's an aluminum Giant that I converted from hybrid to as much of a road bike as it can be and I figure given how much I've been riding in recent years I deserve to treat myself with an actual dedicated road bike). I had thought I was going to go with a Specialized Allez Sprint aluminum frame as the basis for my new build, but then I saw a video from youtuber China Cycling that talked about how you could get a custom titanium frame from Waltly for less than the Specialized frame cost. After looking into Waltly and seeing how other people had had good experiences with them, it seemed to me to be a no brainer, especially as I've always loved the look of titanium and had read many times about how wonderful titanium is to ride.

@@LukeRichardson1981 awesome.. thanks! I really hope you love the new bike… when it arrives!!

Hey Robert, Ahhh, the Aurora.... the bike of my dreams!!! Lucky man!!! The Ti bike is very responsive - it's not as twitchy as a superlight carbon sled - feels way more planted (if that makes sense)... Check out my other vlogs on my new steel bike, the Mariposa - now that's a comfy ride!! I would have gone with the a Ti seatpost, but bought the bike with the Enve carbon one - I have the same seat post on my new bike - just think the Ti post adds a bit more comfort - but comfort may not be what you're looking for?

@@mylifeon2wheels1 Thank you! I forgot to mention in my original post that I was laughing when you were subscribing the over engineering of the ENVE seat post. That was my exact experience and I felt it required a PhD to figure out!

@@robertdevito8928 Right??? Like why over complicate it!!! Still very frustrating and I have a mild panic attack if I feel I need to make any adjustments to the saddle position!! 🙂

Hey.. it’s a SciCon under saddle mount bag…

Thanks Gene… well the website says 30mm so I will give that a shot…

Yeah, I did put 28's on and have yet to try them out for the road-feel aspect.. still have toe-overlap... thanks for watching..

Thanks for watching, Richard…

I was thinking the same thing (assuming the issues being the rear-brake vibration and toe overlap)

Thanks Chris.. birthday is coming up and was asking for Ti cages.. might need to switch that to the Ti seat post!!

@@mylifeon2wheels1 You won't regret it, but it does use the Enve bolt/bracket system which I agree with you, isn't the best, but the compliance is amazing.

Wow... many thanks for all of those tips... I had not checked the alignment. Is there a way of checking that outside of calling No22? You're right though, the damper between the caliper and frame is a band-aid solution... I will investigate those seat-posts!!

@@mylifeon2wheels1 I'm not sure how to check the alignment without some special measuring equipment, but I did ask the Artificial Intelligence, out of curiosity, called GPT-3 (it's an online language model free to use) and this is what it came up with: "To check the alignment of the seat stays on your bicycle frame at home, you can use a string or a straight edge. First, make sure your bike is on a level surface. Next, attach one end of the string or straight edge to the dropout on one side of the rear wheel and the other end to the dropout on the other side. The string or straight edge should be tight and parallel to the ground. If the string or straight edge is not parallel to the ground, it means that the seat stays are misaligned. Another way is to look at the rear wheel and check that it is centred between the stays. It's also possible to check by putting the bike upside down and checking that the distance from the ground to the upper side of the stays is the same for both sides". If it's really bad, you would see it with the bare eye. The method that AI came up with may not be perfect, but it may help. Does the brake calliper feel like it got any torsional movement? This potentially could cause something called "torsional vibration" as well. It's hard to say without actually looking at the bike in person, what causes the vibration.

@@Bear-Jew This is great... thanks. I will try measuring later this evening..

New steel bike just ordered!! Should take possession in about 8 weeks.. full custom build.. that’s a good question.. seems to be mostly carbon from what I can tell… the steel bike will also have a carbon fork.. for weight savings?

Hey Robert.. thanks for the feedback.. not sure what alloy No22 used on this build, but will ask… thanks for watching (check out my latest videos on my new steel bike… very comfy)

It was a small rubber ring/gasket.. and then remember to not tighten the caliper too much against the frame mount..

Yeah.. just put 28mm tires on the Ti bike so hoping for a plusher ride in the spring…

@@mylifeon2wheels1 I once had 32 mm road tires on my gravel bike (with discs); that was a plush ride on pavement. Rim brakes typically cannot handle anything wider than 28mm.

@@hansschotterradler3772 yeah.. I think I am limited to 30’s…

@@mylifeon2wheels1 I want to try out 30s once I need new tires. It'll be tight.

We put a small rubber seal between the caliper and the frame and then made sure we didn’t tighten the caliper too tight.. that seemed to work…

@@mylifeon2wheels1 , thanks, will try the same.

everyone making youtube thinks they need "b roll" and they just get longer and less interesting.

Agreed!!!

Thanks for the tips!! The No22 bikes are pretty sweet…

Hey... I would say steel.. having ridden carbon and Ti and steel - I would say from a pure comfort standpoint steel wins hands down... the way it just absorbs the bumps and cracks is incredible... weight is the penalty for this comfort...

@@mylifeon2wheels1 I agree with that. I've never ridden really good steel frames (I have an early '80s Raleigh), but it is steel the most comfortable. See what I did there? Ha ha Besides weight, the flex in the chain stays is what I don't like so much. Appreciate the reply.

@@justanotherjackleg7073 hahaha… that’s good.. stay tuned for the next video as I have some news on a steel frame… thanks for watching!!

what specifically is wrong with 44mm? A head tube is designed to not flex, to be stable and aligned.

@@catherineseiferth259 44 mm head tubes only exist to accommodate the trend towards carbon (made in china) forks. These larger head tubes were not a solution to the non-existing problem of "flexy head tubes". Because head tubes are larger so that they can make large carbon forks with larger blades and larger steer tubes, the result is an ultra stiff fork and head tube area. When they spec a 44mm head tube, it says they don't care about ride quality. They care more about following the trend of cheap outsourced manufacturing. My next bike will be fully custom, steel and with a 1" head tube, because that's the optimal diameter based on steel's weight, strength while maintaining comfort. That or a Ritchey, who still maintains straight head tubes and forks. Some of the right flex instills more confidence as the bike will absorb more vibrations. Too stiff and the bike feels nervous over rougher terrain.

Catherine Seiferth - Exactly! Nothing is inherently wrong with a 44mm headtube and fork as that clown claims. A bicycle’s headtube has literally next to nothing to do with making a bike ride more or less comfortable and any framebuilder will tell you this. 44mm headtubes were developed to improve the handling of DH and XC MTB racing bikes. It literally had nothing to do with the goal of outsourcing stuff. It’s amazing how idiots will just post complete nonsense on the internet. Why would 44mm headtubes and their forks have to be invented if outsourcing was the purpose behind them? Loads of 1 inch and 1 1/8th inch headtubes and their forks were already outsourced long before any 44mm headtube was ever fabricated on a single bike frameset. That guy sounds like nothing more than some angry and clueless nationalist hack on a rant. 😀

Complete urban legend BS! The vertical flex in a frameset of any material including steel is so little that the claims of comfort or a magical carpet ride are beyond ridiculous. The vast majority of vertical compliance leading to comfort in a complete bike system comes far more from your wheels if they are designed to have more flex in them (lower profile and higher spike count), your tires and the PSI you run them at, your seatpost and its built in flex capabilities, your bars and their built in flex, the bar tape you use and your saddle. Unless your frameset has actual active suspension built into it like a typical non-hard tail MTB your double triangle bike frame regardless of the material it is made of provides virtually zero serious amounts of vertical compliance to produce meaningful increased rider comfort. A simple low profile rimmed wheelset with a higher spike count run with tires at a lower psi will flex and produce exponentially more movement in the vertical plane compared to any rigid steel bicycle frame ever built. That’s reality despite all the urban legend boomer BS claims of “steel is real” and “ohhhh my steel ride is soooo springy and comfy” BS! As for a 44mm headtube resulting in an uncomfortable ride more complete nonsensical BS on your part. There has literally never been a single headtube built for a bicycle that magically provided loads of additional comfort for a rider compared to other headtubes. The headtube’s purpose has nothing to do with providing vertical compliance or comfort and any even semi informed frame builder will tell you this. And FYI, there are loads of 1 inch and 1 1/8th inch forks whose production was outsourced and manufactured overseas long before any 44mm headtube was ever built into a bicycle frameset so your claim that 44mm headtubes and their forks were designed simply to enable outsourcing of them is also nonsensical BS. But I’ll admit reading your silly drivel did provide for some laughs and was good comedy. 😀

And FYI dummy, 44mm headtubes were never made to solve a “flexy headtube problem” clown. They were made to allow use of a larger diameter steerer in the fork for DH and XC MTB racers to reduce flex in the fork to improve handling under high speed and loads. 😀

Thanks.. no, I have not but I would love a tour at some point.. thanks for watching!!

@@mylifeon2wheels1 its in Johnson NY not sure if you can but be neat

@@bonn1771 yeah, it is really not that far away… just not sure if they allow drop ins… 😂

@@mylifeon2wheels1 I am tempted to ask when I buy those fenders....

I think the music is perfect. Unlike some other annoying crap that some people have in the background.

Thanks, Randy… hoping the wider tires/lower pressure helps a bit..

Urgh...

@@mylifeon2wheels1 oh, I was about sell all my bikes and get a titanium one!

@@bullyborg943 I guess... a 3.6Kgs bike would be a pretty sweet deal!! 🙂

I’m thinking of getting a used version of this bike! Thanks for the great video. Question. How much do you weight? I’m trying to see if my higher weight will make the for a more compliant ride. Thanks again !