Thank you for your kind words, Ernest! 😁🤘

Since that’s a more specific breakdown, that will be in an upcoming tutorial. The majority of my audience seems to be those fairly new to home theater, so external amps aren’t on their radar yet. But the video will be coming soon!

@@ealanosbornethat's fair, looking forward to that tutorial. However, you recently reviewing the Emotiva AV Processor... your base is maybe a little more sophisticated than you give us credit for. 👍🏽

Right , the correct way to Double your power . Far superior . Turn 100 WPC to 200

I don't know what your plans are, but I would highly recommend you do some research on biamping before you start playing with external amps. When you are using a multi channel receiver to biamp, you're doing what's called a vertical biamp. On modern audio equipment, vertical is the only way to biamp that makes sense. It avoids all kinds of problems that you will run into if you go with a traditional horizontal biamp. There's a fair amount of information you'll need to go over to learn about this method, and its just not possible to cover it in a post like this. If you're thinking about using one amp for the highs, and one for the lows, or mono amps in some configuration, stop. You can waste a lot of money if you don't know exactly what you're doing. For a vertical biamp, this is what you need. There's only 2 amplifier choices. You can use 2 stereo amps that are identical. They have to be exactly the same. Or, you can use a 4 channel amp where all 4 channels are identical. In a music setup, 2 stereo amps is the norm, but a 4 channel amp is OK. Obviously, your receiver will be using the 4 channel setup. You can't use separate mono amps to vertical biamp. To give a quick visualization of what you're doing, I'll explain how the amps are connected when you have 2 stereo amps. In a traditional horizontal biamp, one stereo amp is used to drive the highs and the other amp is used to drive the bottom half of the speaker. In a vertical biamp, the right channel goes to both inputs on one of the stereo amps. One channel of the stereo amp goes to the highs, and the other channel goes to the lows. So, instead of one amp driving the highs on both speakers, and the other on the lows for both speakers, you now have 1 amp driving the right speaker, and the other amp driving the left speaker. The main thing to take away from all this, is vertical biamping is plug and play. As long as you follow the rules, everything will work, and you'll get good sound. Not so with traditional, horizontal biamping. Even if you are using 2 identical stereo amps, the bass amp will be working a lot harder than the amp for the highs. How hard an amp works, changes the way it sounds. Also, power output is a function of frequency. The lower the note, the lower the resistance the amp sees. 4 and 8 ohm ratings on your speakers are just averages. The actual resistance constantly varies. So, if you have an amp that puts out 100 watts into 4 ohms, and 50 watts into 8 ohms, those 2 identical amps are not identical anymore. If your bass frequencies average about 4 ohms and the other amp 8 ohms, you literally have one 5o watt amp and one 100 watt amp. And, as you can imagine, you now have a volume problem. Not only will the amps sound different, they'll be putting out different amounts of power. In otder to set the levels right between the 2 amps, you'll need to use an external active xover, and that's something you really don't want to get involved with. This may look like a long post, but it's not. I'm just scratching the surface here, and there are plenty of details that I just can't get into. If you want to biamp with your AV receiver, just do what he tells you to do in the video and you'll be fine. However, if you are going to be using a different configuration, you definitely want to do more research before you spend a lot of money. Its too easy to make a mistake.

A little late to the party. My thought was just the opposite. I have an older 7 ch Onkyo. 100 wpc 2 ch. driven. I'm running 5 ch with the front L& R bi-amped. Another comment below stated that he doubles his watts with the bi-amp mode. I don't believe that's the case. My belief is a 100 wpc receiver will only put out 100 wpc ( 2 chs driven ) no matter what you do with bi-amping. So for 2 ch, 100 watts is all I'm going to get. Bi-amped or not. The bi-amp mode only comes into effect when in home theater mode. Now I"ve been wrong once so far this year, so it's possible I could be wrong again, Anyones thoughts.

It’s mainly for music listening, so if that’s your goal, DO IT! 😁

@@ealanosborne Its for the family room that is just 5.1. The receiver is the strza3000es which sounds phenomenal, and my record player is hooked up to that receiver as well. I think this will be a prime candidate as the Amp can do it and we listen to a lot of records.

Was it?

Well, at least you can still bi-amp if it’ll be a 5.1 setup. Thanks for your input! 😊

I have the same receiver with paradigm monitor 9's up front and notice a big difference in detail when setup to bi-amp. Music sounds great..

Hell yes! Excellent setup, my friend! 🤘

This was the exact question I had. I have Crown amplifier so I was wondering how you biamp with an amplifier

@@crashedcorvette you would have to use one crown 2 channel amplifier per speaker using left and right channel, one for the Lows, and one for the highs, possibly using the internal crossover of the crown 2 channel amplifier if the crossovers in the speakers are bypassed by doing this, while still using the high Pass crossover in your AVR to send the lowest frequencies to your sub. If you’re already using an external amplifier, then you really have ample power to run almost any speaker unless they’re ridiculously hard to drive and you’re in a very large space. My two cents. Hope this helps.

Awesome! Glad I could help! 😎🤘

Ha!! “Bi-far…” 😄🤘

You’re welcome! 😉

It depends on the AVR. Which one do you have?

In theory and on paper, you should be able to use your old AVR as an external amp, given that it has a 7.1 channel external input section. But there might be complications with bi-amping. Using an old AVR through its Pure Direct mode can definitely power a 2 channel system no problem. But I would still have to personally experiment with such a setup to know for sure if it can be used for bi-amping as well. What’s the main reason for upgrading? Is it having 8K support and Atmos, etc?

That’s great news! It’s all about experimentation, so you’re already ahead of most! 😁🎉

@@ealanosborne ha ha. I agree so. Very few of my friends are into audio, home theater etc., so can’t really discuss these things and get and idea. The only way for me to know what I like is through experimentation. Thanks for your reply though.

It shouldn’t, since it’s clearly meant to handle it. If you were experimenting with things outside of what the manual says, then you might damage things. But otherwise, no. 👍

Lemme know how it goes! I wonder if a completely bi-amped surround sound system would be that much better? 🤷‍♂️😄 Now that would be a killer experiment!

Yeah, if you listen to music quite a bit and have those unused terminals, might as well experiment! 🎉

How loud your surrounds are depends on how close they are to your main listening position. Are they near your head? Then not too loud. Are they 6 feet behind you and to the sides a bit? Then louder. Audyssey does a pretty good job initially when determining the loudness a speaker should be depending on how far away it is. Then it's just a matter of adjusting the dB to your liking after that. 👍

@@ealanosborne thanks man!!! That’s an awesome explanation

Nice!!! Interested to know if you hear a difference regular vs bi-amped! 🤘

@@ealanosborne I just got them this morning. I have a (dumb?) question, though. Since I've never owned a pair of speakers with more than one set of terminals. For "normal" use, do I use the outside, inside, left or right terminals? I'm a little disappointed that FedEx left a (normally) $750 pair of speakers on my front porch and as far as I could tell never even played 'ding-dong-ditch'

@@garyausten5939 Doesn't matter. The jumpers are in place.

@@DavidEVogel Since I don't have any height channels I thought I'd go ahead and bi-amp. I think it makes the bass a little tighter, but with my hearing the way it is it's a little hard to tell...they sound good, though. The woofers are about 2x as large as the ones in the satellites I replaced. Listening to music (jazz/classical mostIy) really don't even need my sub. Movies sound good too, although I did notice how crappy the old center channel is now. Darn it...I gotta get another new speaker. There's one on sale that's a "Reference" instead of an "Reference Premier" that would fit under my TV without having to buy a mount or a new AV stand, but I've heard cautions about mixing qualities even in the same brand...I should stick with an RP. thoughts???

@@garyausten5939 I have a pair of Polk speakers and bi-amplify them. Consider that woofers eat about half of your power. 100 watts/channel and 50 goes to the woofer. If you have enough amplifiers why not use 2 to amplify the woofers?

They’re jumper cables that connect the high and low frequencies for when you want to connect the speaker normally (plugging into just the bottom red and black terminals). Then when you want to bi-amp them, you remove the jumper cables so the high and low frequencies are powered independently. 🤘

Sounds solid to me! 😁🤘

I actually did test this out...kind of. But since I only had a 2 channel amp on hand, I didn't want to include my results in the video, just in case they were false due to not having a 4 channel amp in my possession currently. But I think it's a software thing. At least with my Marantz SR7015. It seemed as if when setting the mode to "5.1ch (bi-amp) + Zone 2, it only activates the front left and right pre outs, because I never got a signal coming out of the "Height 1+2" pre outs. BUT...I think you still could technically use a BasX A4 by using RCA splitters, so 1 RCA goes into the right front receiver pre out, which then splits into 2 in the back of the A4. Same with the Left Front pre out. OR...you could take an A2 and bi-wire instead. You connect the right and left front pre outs to the A2 with RCA patch cables, then have 2 sets of speaker wire coming out of the A2 right front speaker terminal and connecting to the HF and LF terminals of the right front speaker. Then same with the Left Front speaker wire. Totally sorry if this isn't exactly making sense. I'm still not 100% sure that I'm correct in this assessment, so don't quote me on this. Bottom line is, it's complicated. 😄

@@ealanosborne hahaha thanks so much for the reply. I appreciate your help!

It might help it a little bit to distribute the load across more internal amps, but it would significantly help if at some point you off-loaded the need to power your Sonus Fabers all together with an external amp. Are the Sonus Fabers the only 4 ohm speakers that will be in your system? If so, I’d stick with 8 ohm if the rest of your speakers perform best at 8 ohms.

No. Bi-amping is two amplifier channels powering two terminals on a speaker. The two channels can be on the same AVR like in the video, or an outboard amplifier. Bi-wiring is plugging two pos and two neg wires into a single amp channel, and then connecting to the two different binding posts on the speaker (with the connector removed). Same power coming through, just through 2 different sets of wires, rather than just one then jumping to the second with the jumper connector.

I don’t currently have bi-amping set up, personally. The video in question was made a couple years ago at this point. Going with 7.1 + Zone 2 or 5.1 full bi-amp is up to you, really. I’m not really into using more zones, so I would probably go with 5.1 full bi-amp. 🤷‍♂️

@@ealanosborne thanks, I will contact Marantz support and let you know what there advice is. Keep up you’re good vids, I like them👍

Wow. If money isn’t an issue (which it probably isn’t, given your incredible Hi-Fi setup) and you LOVE to listen to music A LOT, then yes, you might want to get another PM-10 for even higher fidelity playback. It’s still not going to be a HUGE difference, but different enough to some. Otherwise, I’m sure one PM-10 by itself is good enough for most applications. 👍

In my opinion, that would be a mistake. If you're going to spend double the money, just so you can biamp, it would be a waste. You'll get better sound, but it won't be worth it. For that kind of money, you can get real high end gear made in the US, Canada, UK, etc.... Remember, when you are adding another Marantz, you're not getting a better amp you're getting another amp. It will sound better, but it will pale in comparison to what you can get if you buy 1 really good amp for 2x the price. If you already have an amp that is close to state of the art, then maybe get another one. But your Marantz, while very good, isn't even close to that level.

If you happen to already have the equipment to make it happen (speakers with 2 sets of binding posts), then yeah, check it out! But would I go out and buy speakers that can be bi-amped? Probably not. 🤷‍♂️

Sounds like a great idea! 🤘

@@ealanosborne Finally hooked up, The sound.... Effortless🤌

@@steverosales2616 🎉💯

Yes, that should still be fine, unless you plan on playing the music very loud for hours on end. 😄 It’s actually good to have a lot of headroom with a more powerful amp, as opposed to an amp with not enough power that’s trying too hard and introducing distortion into the signal path.

According to the manual, you use the surround back terminals for the lower front speaker binding posts

@@ealanosborne Ealan, hereby, as promised, the Marantz respons on the Bi-amp settings (SR8015) in a front Bi-amp 5.1 setting. If you only want to connect the front speakers Bi-amp 5.1 mode, you must choose the 7.1 (BI-amp) + Zone2. The 5.1 Full Bi-amp is not an option because the S8015 then thinks that all speakers are in Bi-amp. See diagram in Manuel SR8015. Regards Wim

@@abzeker5877 Ohhhh, gotcha! Thanks for that! 🙌🎉

Hi! Yes, you can use them as regular speakers since they have standard +/- speaker terminals, but are IP ready, if you decide to do that at some point instead. 👍

@@ealanosborne Thanks for the quick reply! Now looking for an Amp/ Reveiver that will be sufficient for a six speaker plus one subwoofer. If you don't mind...can I ask what I should be looking for without breaking the bank?

@@georgematos9380 Hmmm…well if you want 6 speakers and a sub, a 7 channel AVR would work best. Something like the Onkyo TX-NR7100 or Denon X1800H or X2800H, depending on your budget. Those are all fairly future proof, supporting HDMI 2.1, 8K and 4K video, next gen gaming features if you play video games a lot, and sufficient power for an entry level speaker system. 👍

@@ealanosborne Once again thank you for your guidance! Great job on the videos and in particular with the inserting of humor! Sincerely...

Cool. 👍

Correct, you wouldn’t be able to use both internal and external amps combined to pull off bi-amping. In order to bi-amp with external speakers, you’d need an RCA Y-splitter, which I also have a video on. 😉

@ealanosborne not sure why you would need a splitter. Can I not designate the appropriate channels say channels 1,2,3,4 to preout to a quad amp. Then say channels 1,2 be biamp 1 and 3,4 biamp 2. Then use channels 5,6,7,8,9,10,11 for the other speaker and they will use the internal amps? Giving me 5.1.4 with two biamped fronts.

@@nickmaddalena985 No, sorry. The software just isn’t that intuitive to make it that customizable. If you want to bi-amp the front speakers, you need to connect a Y-splitter into each Front L/R preout and connect those to 4 channels on an external amp.

@ealanosborne sorry for the delay. So what you are saying I'd that I use only two channels and Y split the preout signal into 4 channels. In an amp. So basically 2 channels will be a duplicate of the same signal, which internally get fed into the two sets of binding posts on the main speakers? Will the preout signal be degraded going through the y splitter? Would not the resistance be higher?

@@nickmaddalena985 Yes, you are understanding what I said correctly. 👍 The pre out signal does get split, yes, but any degradation at that gain stage is very minimal, and the external amp will do most of the work anyway. When I tested it for this video, it seemed to sound just fine! 🎉

Niiiiiice! 🤘

From what I have researched, bi-wiring is the same as having a thicker (lower gauge) cable. So bi-wiring with two 14AGW would be aprox. the same as having a single 8AWG. But someone correct me if I'm wrong.

@@Donly1pt removing the usual crappy plates and using more copper, as you describe, both make a difference. However, the two pairs of wires carry separate frequencies, in line with the filter circuits in the crossovers, so there is less contamination of the delicate tweeter feed by the thundering great bass currents. No doubt bi-amping is better but bi-wiring is a still a worthwhile upgrade.

Find a 3080 from Yamaha, cheaper and pretty much does the same, you only need an extra 2 channel amp for 11 channels.

TRY IT!!!! 😄

I agree 100%. An AV receiver, unless it's the size of a house and cost around the same is never going to have the power.

Bi amping with a receiver makes a huge differences. Let’s say the amp is 100wpc, with bi amping, the woofer and tweeters each get 100wpc. Without bi amping, the tweeters and woofer have to share and thus get 50wpc each. Bi amping doubles the output. I’ve always heard huge differences and I’ve bi amped 3 different pair of speakers using different AVs.

😄🤘