I watch this every time I spend a session printing. I'm a newby and find every tip helpful at one point or another. Today is no exception. Thank you ever so much.

Wow, Todd this video was EXTREMELY informative...no BS, no tech talk, just straight to the point good useful info...LOVE it! Bravo!

Thanks, sometimes I find that by not trying to match what is on the screen, the results on paper can be uniquely original.

Thanks a lot, it's a big help. Flawless sound in this vid. Only one camera, but still interesting and well organized. You know how to make a video, that's for sure.

Thank you a lot! A lot of useful and easy-to-understand tips in a short video. Best 15 mins ever spent!

You sir are amazing. I just discovered your channel and I can't be happier about it! Pls, keep it up!

Great, great tutorial! Very helpful!

This is another great video Todd. I always know I’m going to learn something new. For example, I can’t believe I’ve never considered changing my background color to white while editing a print. It’s such an obvious thing to do but I bet a lot of people never do it. I purchased a Datacolor Spyder years ago and have calibrated my monitor many times. I’m glad you shared that simply reducing your screen brightness gives you similar results. In my experience using ICC profiles for paper makes a huge difference. Thanks for the great tips!

Supremely helpful! Thank you!!!

Thanky you very much for those very valuable advices for no-costs.

great video, thank you for taking the time to share your experiences!

Another great video Todd, thank you. Some very useful tips and advice. Well done. Neil M

excellent advice for paper use

This is about the fourth video I have seen from you. Verry well explained. Good Topics. I use KZfaq for about 15 Years now but your Channel is the first I subscribed to. Thank You!

As usual... great video Todd 🙂

Good overview and great tips Todd. What I also adjust on my screen, is the Kevin setting. By default, all screens are way too 'cold'. That is why I set my screen to 5000K to have a better impression of the colors in print. Creative greetings Alain

Fantastic video. I’ve been listening to so many videos on color management, yours was so succinct and thoughtfully put together! Also my RR sample pack comes in the mail today. Can’t wait to try them

Fantastic tips, thanks.

Really appreciated this recording. Gelled some issues I was having issues really wrapping my head around. Just switching to Capture One and have not printed from it yet. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Amazing photoshots!

Todd, great tips.

Excellent video!!

So many great tips👌🏼 thank you🙏🏼

Very comprehensive review and talk 👏Love RED RIVER myself-great company.

¡Gracias!

Good tips

Thank you very much, I whished I had seen this video sooner

Hello. Can you please elaborate a little on #5 re the cropping? I don’t fully understand. Thank you.

Cool

wow the audio is amazing

At least in the Windows version of Capture One, since a few versions, you can change the background color with a right-mouse click too. I lower the screen brightness to 60-80 cd (and still have to lift the shadows, or even brightness a little bit) but I am editing in a very dark room.

A blast from the past - Lifting Shadows - back in the days of dark rooms, chemical smells, loud fans, and wet paper, we called this drydown. With some experimentation, you could figure out your dry downtime and add it to your base paper exposure. It would look a bit dark when wet, but when it dried, it was right where you wanted it. This makes me wonder - can a layer adjustment curve do the same thing, and would it apply to all prints? You could apply it during the print workflow just before sharpening. Thinking out loud - you'd have to select a range of images and pick a set of print sizes - small, med, large, or whatever to see if size affects both dry-down and sharpening. I could see both dry-down and print sharpening being affected by paper choice and size, but if you could work out a universal for one paper, it would make automating the print process easier.

I think this is all good advice for anyone who is not planning to do a lot of printing. If however you think that you will likely print a lot, then buying a good calibrator and a good monitor definitely makes life massively easier. It can save you money from scrapping poor print results, and this can mean a lot when you consider the cost of really good paper like the Hahnemuhle range (not forgetting the cost of ink too). It also therefore takes out some of the frustration that can come when such prints turn out poorer than hoped/intended. I have found though that with a calibration device like a Spyder X you need to use third party software like Display Cal to get good results. The Spyder software is pretty poor in my experience. I would advise buying a used good pro level display if money is an issue. I’ve found that some of the cheaper models will make calibration very difficult if not impossible. Even the iMac 5k display- whilst stunning and gorgeous to look at- is not as desirable as something like a Dell UP2718Q or UP2720Q for colour accuracy (in my personal experience from using a 5k iMac for 3 years). In the UK You can buy these as refurbished from ITC for massively cheaper than if bought as new. That’s what I did and I would do it again any day to save £600. Just some thoughts.

Just as an option - you can rent screen\printer calibrator for couple of days for $20-30 without spending $700-900 for hardware...

2:39 what kind of paper did you used for that photo???? Thank you for the video, you helped me a lot

I was so lucky to be gifted the Canon pro 1000 printer for my birthday so I could finally follow my dream of printing images on my own. I have to say, I am a little disheartened at the moment as all images come either bit too dark or with yellow or purple overcasts. My monitor is calibrated and I moved from pc to Apple computer but it's still not perfect. Your tip for letting the luminosity of the screen is something I knew but I think my screen is still too bright so I'll work on that in a moment. Your tip 7 is brilliant! I didn't know this existed 😂 I am a little confused with the last two tips because from them I understand that I should kind of guess what I want my image to look because I'm overdoing it deliberately in editing. So at the end, i never see on the screen what the image will look after printing. That's quite disappointing to me as I think this will take a lot of testing and printing before I get the desired effect in print. Did I get that right?

Nice video Todd. I use Epson Exhibition Fiber paper with my Canon PRO-1000 printer. I use the Canon Pro Luster ICC profile which works great for this paper. The results are fantastic for color and B&W prints, I primarily print in color. I staked up on the 17x22 as the price has increased significantly the last year or so. I also use Canon or Epson Pro Luster paper "both are identical to my eyes". In regards to red river paper, I am looking at the Palo Duro SoftGloss Rag 315.

I've been using Soft Gloss Rag for a while now. (I use a Pro-10.) I've been thinking of trying a Baryta for B&W although which RR Baryta I should get. Or, is the SGR a fine paper for B&W? Thanks.

What about a UV spray varnish? Do you apply that after printing on all your inkjet prints? Do papers like Canon Premium Pro Luster or Pro Matte need the spray coating to preserve and protect from deterioration and fading? Good video, thanks for the information and tips.

From the video above I noticed that you were using 5K studio display to print proPhoto images, do you have any difficulty to produce the true color of the original images?

lovely video, but whats wrong with canon paper ?

Will reducing the brightness of the display hold true when printing art prints as opposed to photo prints?

rives is the best paper. 300 g

I am not finding any paper at the Epson site called "soft gloss". Do you mean semi-gloss? Thank you.

I'm sorry. One more question. Do you allow the printer to manage color or Photoshop?

I think you explained it backwards on the size of the paper ... paper only comes in set sizes, you can't just ask for 12x18 or 12.5 x 17.5. To get that border around your print, you need to print *smaller* than the size of the paper you bought!

Also, it's a terrible idea to lift the blacks with the curve editor the way you show as a general rule-you're essentially telling your printer to see black as dark grey ... hamstringing your print workflow so you'll never see the darkest black your printer can produce. There are other ways to use the curve editor to lift the dark greys w/o killing the blacks-or being careful w/the sliders & watching your histogram.

Your prints are too dark b/c you should be using 80 cd/m. A calibration tool can lock that in, instead of randomly reducing your monitor's brightness.