mines exactly that but halfway through the hangboard sesh i look over at the moon board and spend the rest of the session destroying my skin on that beast

@@evanhales2283 To be fair: Thats leggit training!

every "take it easy" session... always ends on the Kilter Board 😂💪

My sessions are a lot of times just kiltering 2 hrs in a row, perfectly fine on some static routs that dont delete your skin

Haha yeah I’m not always great at it :P but it’s something to always strive towards!

Thanks friend! I appreciate the support :-)

Lucky you! You have so many hours of top notch content waiting for you on this channel 🍀

Hey! Thanks a ton for taking the time to say so, I really appreciate it ☺️

Haha you’re too kind, thanks mate

Cheers mate! I always say V9 was my favorite grade, there's an endless amount of climbing to try but you can still have a go at top level stuff and still enjoy it

Thanks for the reply!@@EmilAbrahamsson

It depends on your goals! If you want to reach the highest grade you can: work your strengths. If you want to be as well rounded as possible, work weaknesses! For instance, I'm quite large and am relatively bad at static, tensiony moves on pockets. My hardest grade in that style would probably be around V11-12, but in my style (dynamic, slopers, etc) I climb much harder in grade

It's one of those climbing mantras that isn't supported by much. Emil answered that in a good way, but also, keep in my mind that there are some critical qualities for climbing, and an endless list of "useful, but not critical" qualities too. You can spend as much time as you want on those useful (or, not totally useless) qualities, it won't make that much of a difference to your level. That's a first thing (so, yes, you can work on your kneebaring 3 hours per week, it's not totally useless. won't change much in your climbing, i can guarantee) My advice on that, is : do both, and work in a "critical path". On a given climb, your path would be : -find at least one solution for every move -find at least one whole sequence that gets you to the top -optimize/refine (which is, find different solutions, and choose one of them) -send. In the refining process, you can either always choose your "natural" style, or choose a "weakness" that suits better the climb. For instance, you're tall, and oftenly choose to keep your feet low when you can, since you have the reach to do so. But on this mantle, it's really random to do so, you end up quite stretched. Your shorter friend uses a heelhook, which enable him to do the move 100% of the time. On this example, it's perfectly fine to try to flash the boulder with your low foot. That's very probably your best chance to flash it. But while working on the boulder, you might want to try different approaches, as it may prove to be a better way of doing the climb. My take on that is ultimately that you will still default to your climbing style 2/3 of the time. But this last third is critical to overall progression and sending, and while not getting a master at those weaknesses, you'll be at least decent in that. Lastly, there is absolutely no problem at really sucking in something. Usually, it's also because you don't really enjoy that. You can hate crack climbing, or slab, or overhangs, not because you fear that, but because it's not enjoyable for you. You will usually end up sucking at those, and that's perfectly fine and acceptable.

it most certainly is!

I have definitely considered it! It’s a bit of a drive, so I’m not sure when I’ll make it down there, but I certainly want to

Haha just a coincidence, I almost always use the 2.0s nowadays :-) Breaking in a new pair, and decided to go with these for the session

On routes I’d agree, but generally speaking on boulders I believe moves are best practiced in isolation. The thing is, if you don’t have enough finger strength left to properly hold onto the holds, you can’t apply any form of technique

Moumo (where this video was filmed), Klättercentret Telefonplan and BLX (The long Dyno gym) :) Those three gyms will get you far.

The advice above works well for the gyms! There’s a nice vegan place called Chutney close to Moumo :-) there’s almost always vegan options around also!

Thanks guys. Appreciate it a lot! I'll give moumo a try then :)

He did his anti style boulders later in the session, at easier grades.

I feel like unless you wanna actually go pro, if you want to push towards the highest grades it makes a lot of sense to push your natural strengths as far as possible. Of course keeping up your weaknesses is good as well but for me personally, im totally fine staying 2-3 V grades lower on my antistyle. Overall, unless you are a pro its all about whats fun to you! I hate slab climbing so why would i spend hours on it to get better?

You don't have to want to go pro to properly train and want to improve. Being a complete climber is pretty important to perform on every type of boulder/route.

​@@zoroox64yes, having a well rounded skill set is pretty important to perform on every type of boulder. The thing is however, performing on every type of boulder is not important (unless you're a pro, obv). It depends on your personal goals - if you want to be able to do every type of climb, train your weaknesses. If you want to have fun and just do some highest graded boulders, train your strengths. That easy Circling back to Emil's last point, don't overthink it. Have fun.

Around 11 years now! Quite some time

Nice i ve been climbing for 6 years now

Thanks mate!

No. Sometimes you hit a plateau. Sometimes you have to do exercise you don’t really like. It’s all part of the journey, but you don’t have to like every minute of it.

@@Mike-oz4cv okay 👍

That’s not quite the entire tip, but if that’s what you took from it then I can’t help yah!

if that's all you got from the video that's your bother..

You're half right I would say :-) The difference lies in body sizes and how that affect grades. For instance, Nikken who set it is a fair bit shorter than me, so for him my method would be more around V13 probably, but equally so since he is a bit shorter his intended method puts him in a much more manageable box, making that method V11 for him and maybe V12-13 for me. E.G both methods are the same grade, but my method is a bit harder for the average human, since I'm a bit above average height

That makes no sense.

The correct way to look at grades (i take that from Henning Wang, who has formulated it this way) is to understand that grades are a somewhat consensus among climbers. This consensus is set, in a vast majority, by male adult climbers. Those climbers average a certain height, weight, wingspan, finger size, and so on. Keep in mind that the higher you get in grades, the less diverse the sample of climber gets. The representation of climbers others than male adult gets lower and lower. The more you deviate from this average sender, the more frequently you'll feel different from the grade that is given to a climb. The beta chosen from the climber is a consequence of this fact (and has then no impact on the actual grade : the real impact is the climber). A child will very, very frequently not feel the same about a problem compared to the consensus. A female will (on average !) frequently not feel the same about a problem compared to the consensus A short climber, like me (1m57) will very frequently feel different. A tall climber, like Emil, will very frequently feel different.@@TheBanana202 When i say "feel different", it can be both way, harder or easier.

@@TheBanana202 doesn’t surprise me you feel that way. Most climbers seem to have little to no critical thinking skills when it comes to assigning objective grades to a totally subjective activity.