Exactly what I was thinking.

Looks like that piggyback fuse holder has two fuses so the output wire must be protected whichever side goes to the battery to me...

@@TheC15jon *That's not true.* The "front" one is for the original fuse if you are tapping into a slot that initially had a fuse. The "back" slot is for the device you are connecting to the fuse tap. The "far" leg of the fuse tap MUST go to the hot connector. Secondly, if you are tapping into a slot that already had a fuse, the original fuse has to be higher amperage than the new fuse. Last but not least, never tap into "important" fuses, like airbags, etc. Use something like fog light instead.

I've set my multimeter up exactly the same way as you have shown and I am getting no readings whatsoever with the ignition either on or off.What the hell is going on?

Remote wire

+thetraindriver01 thanks for watching :)

Hi Craig, I elaborated a little bit more on another video I did. If you skip to 3:58, I think it will answer your question kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l9mapJtm1Zq7ZKM.html

As noted above, the airbag / alarm / sensor circuits are probably wise to avoid.

complete

Yeah you can use if for a dash cam with a permanent live. A regular car battery would be able to power a dash cam for weeks without it being recharged.

It doesn't matter in this particular case. Yours probably displays 12.10 V and his 12.1 V.

yes you could

^^This. You need to use the voltmeter to determine which fuse slot is the positive and negative side. If you put the tap in backwards it will bypass the fuse and there will be nothing stopping overpowering what you have plugged in.

@@diamondheat9 well, not quite... think about how the "add-a-fuse" is actually configured internally. The circuits will be protected (both) but the original fuse will carry both its design current plus the additional circuit current if the installation is backwards.

There's no positive or negative end of a fuse. It's all positive. No wrong way to place it.

Sorry if this sounds like a dumb reply. Is there any particular reason that you need to connect to an ignition wire instead of an ignition live from the fuse box ?

Actually, I'm not replying, I'M ASKING... THAT'S A BIG DIFFERENCE. You see, I need the "Start or Cranking wire" which is the switch pass the ACC? these are the sequences on the car keys right (OFF-->ACC-->ON-->START or CRANKING) I need the cranking power instead of the ACC. In the cranking mode, it's only supplied when the key is on START position, after you release it, it will turn off. That's what I need.

The reason why I need the "Cranking 12V Power" instead of the 12V constant as in the ACC is because I need it to turn on a RELAY, which will turn -On the "Transponder Chip Module" that I created so that the transponder module will have only power when I crank the car, and turns off automatically when I released the key or when the car has started already. In short, I'm making a Transponder Bypass, and I need the cranking power to power it instead of the ACC power which is constantly ON.

Yes I was replying to what you was asking. Hence my “sorry if this sounds like a dumb reply”. I was talking about me, not you. I never said you was replying. On to your question. I’m not an electronics expert but I would imagine it would work a little bit like this. The ignition barrel is essentially a switch. So the ACC position would be like a toggle switch (on/off) and the cranking position would be like a push switch (it’s only on as long as you’re pushing the button down. ). I imagine you would be able to splice into the wire coming from the back of the ignition barrel and run an in-line fuse from it. If you wanted to trace where the wire ran so you could tap into it in a more appropriate location, you could use the continuity feature on a multimeter. How much amps does this transponder need ?

It's OK buddy, I already found a Service Manual for my car, and I think it's a Yellow/Black on a Nissan. By the way, I applied your tuts-video on my Front Camera monitor since they needed a constant 12 volt power, great thanks for the vids.

Nope. Whatever was fits best for you.

Yes it does!! One way it bypasses all the fuses. And the other way power passes through both the fuses. Also. If you have empty slots like I see in this video. I would check those first and use them over “piggybacking “ Just sayin.. Larry

@@mafosa8519 you're right! Make sure the piggyback is placed in the right direction {on the HOT side of fuse) to allow current to flow through the fuse and not straight through. Very important!

Yes it does. The fuse-taps are direction dependent.

Every fuse has a number on it representing the capacity of the fuse in amps. If this number is upside down, the electricity can get confused and flow the wrong way. Make sure all the numbers on all the fuses are facing in the proper direction.

Maybe he was after a permanent power fuse

One of many

No part is grounded. It is actually the -ve terminal of the battery that is being connected to when you connect to the chassis.

WHICH WAY SHOULD IT BE, IN OR OUT?

because it doesn't matter and you won't be screwed

Watch this one and tell me it doesn't matter kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bshpdtmGssmygaM.html

@@61Benster It matters..