Y'know, I didn't even think to mention any of that but I'm glad you did! Positioning of body and wrench are extremely important for consistency. You can see when I got to the #2 main, I was struggling to maintain position as the engine stand wanted to move...but I was thinking more camera shot than best angle for the job. I gave in and stepped to the side for the #1 main. Shooting off the Gopro I didn't know if I'd still be in the shot, and I wanted to run this with as little editing as possible...showing the true flow of the job for someone who has never done it.

Great fourm lmao ✌️

U.T. has some guns.. Ain't no weakling by any means...

I always cringe when I see usually young guys use the wrench and not pull the way your talking about. It's like fingernails on the chalk board

I use a calibrated elbow, torque is only for dry threads.

And a properly torqued bolt is already pre-tensioned, so when it performs its job it can do so without stretching much more, keeping stuff from shearing off or moving otherwise.

That very question occurred to me while I was watching.

You couldnt be more wrong. A straight extension will not effect torque only the distance from the handle to the bolt will.

@@Ticeracing33 The distance between the torque wrench handle and the bolt head will change leverage, not torque. The distance between the head of the torque wrench and the bolt head will decrease torque applied to the bolt as that distance increases.

When building an engine, you never want to have an "uuh ooh" moment. I have had that moment, but it was easily corrected!!

Zen.

Absolutely! Well said! That's one of the points Tony made in his last video saying, I have plenty of power tools etc. but choose to disassemble and assemble with hand tools so I can feel the connections and what have you. I love doing things the old school way, imo,the proper way. Thank you for sharing this with us guys and it's great to hear people learning and appreciating this, regardless of how much experience some of us have or don't. I truly love being a gear-head!!!!!!

As soon as Tony mentioned that I paused the video and went to check my tool-box. Sure enough: I found 1 Torque Wrench that I'd forgotten to set it back to Zero - THANKS TONY !!!

Surprised you didn’t know that

@@yeboscrebo4451 I did know that. Uncle Tony just gave me the reminder so that I could audit my own shop practices. I shall re-double my efforts toward my proper care and maintenance of my tools, as my mantra.

first time i used a torque wrench... my dad said he would kick my ass (not really... id just get yelled at lol) if i didnt turn it back to 0 . . like 15 years later.... its just a natural habit . i dont have to go check.... because i KNOW they are all at 0

I always put mine back in the case that it came in. In order for it to fit in properly it has to be set to 20 lb/ft

I always wondered how accurate clickers are. Clickers are kinda useful in tight spots where you can't see the reading on a beam, but I never heard of the warmup procedure. Makes sense, thank you. UTG comment section is one of the best on KZfaq! Greetings from Florida!

@@Face2theScr33n Yes I'm afraid its all true....!! - and makes sense because the grease internally goes a bit stiff with temperature and age of the wrench...... I'm sure that KZfaq video is out there somewhere but you can google it.... - springs do also lose tension with age... and go stiff stone cold...... Cheers mate to our American Brothers......!! I'll put a shrimp on the barbie for ya.......!

When I was a truck driver, a truckers magazine had an article about bolts. It said they were like springs. They can be overtorqued without breaking, and stretched to a degree where they will no longer have a spring effect. Then they will never stay tight.

Interesting concept on the bolt spacer here, embarrassingly I am confused, does not compute. Specifically, the example in my mind I'm using to compute this concept is: say we have 2 bolts of the same material and diameter, but of different lengths, then why does the maximum force change if there is no change in the cross-sectional area or material properties. The longer bolt would physically stretch a longer raw distance, but proportional the the length of the shorter bolt so it's nothing to do with max force. I may have forgot my materials lessons and got it wrong here.

@@RwP223 it's not the force of clamping that changes, but the reliability of the clamping load that changes. Think about a rubber band holding a weight on a fishing scale. If you have 2 identical thickness rubber bands but one is short and the other is long you can illustrate this. Hang a 1.1 ounce weight on the short rubber band and measure the length and say it stretches from 1 inch long to 2.1 inches long. Do the same with the long rubber band. Pretend that it stretched from 2 inches long to 4.2 inches long. The percentage that they lengthened compared to their length is the same (they both doubled their length, but the length that the long band stretched is 2 inches on the long band, and only 1 inch on the short band.. Now take a .9 ounce weight and hang them. You'll notice that the longer band stretches 1.8 inches to 3.8 while the shorter band stretches from 1 inch to 1.9 inches. This illustrates that for a given tension on a loaded member, a longer member gets "more longer" than a shorter member. Now imagine that our goal is to maintain tension as reliably as possible, under all conditions, etc. Using the thought experiment of the rubber bands, we could say our desired tension for our system to work is 1 ounce of load on a rubber band, and your only way to replicate it is to stretch the band to a set length using imperfect measurement techniques. The longer band will be easier to control the tension based on length, because you have a wider length target that you know will produce the desired 1 ounce tension. You know from the previous experiment that the desired length of the 1 inch band under 1 ounce tension is 2 inches. you also know that the desired length of the longer band is 4 inches. If the acceptable tolerance is 1 oz +/- .1 ounce, you can see that the short rubber band system has to maintain a length of 1.9-2.1 (.2 total tolerance) inches to keep its tension in the acceptable level. The longer band needs to keep its length between 3.8-4.2 (.4 total tolerance) inches to maintain its tension. This is a 2x improvement in ability to hold proper length vs. the shorter band. That length of stretch is what you're attempting to achieve when you torque a screw. What you gain by using a longer screw is more ability for the screw to absorb the minute changes in the clamping height vs. that of a shorter screw. Clear as mud?

@@merr6267 Makes sense in this new light for sure, thanks for laying it out!

Torque of a screw (bolt) is also related to the length of thread, the diameter of the screw, and the force used to tighten it. Washers are often forgotten and that can drastically effect the clamping force and torque value.

You can double click how many times you like. Important is that the last thing you do is click-click 😉

@@woodendoorgarage TRUE! CLICK AS MANY TIMES AS YOU WANT, IT JUST HAS TO END IN A CLICK CLICK!

On some assemblies, like the cylinder head, the manufacturer will specify a torqueing sequence; follow that if stated.

My brake caliper mounting bolts do not have bearings

@@RwP223 CORRECT!

I was going to post something like this too. The breakaway torque is always higher than the running torque. This is also why the double click does not hurt the fastener's torque value.

Exactly, and it's why the double click is a complete fallacy. Smooth motion to the first click is paramount. The second click is a piece of mind click. It does nothing to the torque of the bolt. Which is why anyone who wants to do the double click, you just let them do it, because it does nothing. ;)

Great points, I was going to say the same thing. "Sneaking up" on the torque is okay, but make sure the torque wrench clicks while you are actually turning the bolt. If it doesn't, the bolt is likely undertightened because the breakaway torque (torque required to turn a stationary bolt) is significantly higher than the torque while the fastener is turning. Don't believe me? Tighten any fastener to any torque value, making sure the fastener is turning at a decent rate when the torque wrench clicks. Now try to loosen the fastener at the same torque value. You will see that your torque wrench will click before you actually break the fastener loose.

@@averyalexander2303 i thought I saw one of those main cap bolts Tony sneaked up on c lick on a second pull but not the previous pull with no movement before the click. Hey uncle Tony go back and recheck those main cap bolts.

@@markschmalenberger8301 I thought I saw that too, but it's hard to say for sure on a video.

This is good advice too

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qriCbJl6sa2zgok.html

It's better to over torque a little than under tighten

I'm with you on clickers, which is why I have several ranges in the box. I feel comfortable using the 20-90% range on any of them. Outside that, I change wrenches.

@@markschmalenberger8301 haha that's why our shop ,on the damn Briggs air-cooled home standby gennies has been doing it wrong on replacing head gaskets for about 7-8yrs now and haven't had a comeback. They say dry head bolts ,and 220 inch pounds. I say lube them and give em 21 foot pounds. About 3 pounds over ,plus lubed threads equals no more comebacks.

100% agree on clickers. Ever since I swapped I haven’t gone back. Easier to get a more accurate torque.

Yeah I saw a vid recently that the guy said don't dial it way off ,just put it on the lowest setting.

@@MrTheHillfolk I didn't know that, I've always back mine all the way off. It's still with in spec though. Where I work I can get it tested and recalibrate it for free so I took all mine in and had them done. Out of 4 of them I had one bad one and it was a snap on. My cheap ones passed.

WHen I was in HS, 1984-88, I had auto shop, and our teacher was a DRUNK, he always had that red face, and a cauliflower nose. He rarely taught class, but he was knowledgeable when he did. He was a nice guy, so we never complained, it was a hell of alot better than "english" or "social studies" that's for sure. When I graduated HS, the class no longer existed, sad. I think the availability of such classes are left up to the individual schools and their yearly budgets.

@@quicksilver462 I totally agree and I think my high school start phasing out Auto class just after I graduated in the mid-90s

Uh, no. Every single fastener in a vehicle has a torque specification without exception. The machines that screw them in are capable of breaking every single fastener. They have specifications. Most fasteners though, it snug and then a 1/4 turn, maybe more on large fasteners.

@@tarstarkusz final step, strike end of wrench with hammer

@@graham2631 The universal tool.

@@tarstarkusz "FORD" wrench!

I thought that was the Jiffylube oil plug rule of thumb?

@@Freedomquest08 Jiffylube, Quicklube, Bubba's Shade Tree Auto Repair and Hot Rod, the list is long and indistinguished. :-D

And if it wants to leak a little after turning it back, remove it and wind some Teflon tape on the threads until you increase the thread diameter by three fifths of the original diameter.

LOL

I agree, and believe the quality of all the surfaces involved and the bolts play a role. some metals are really soft especially with wheels

I like the beam type but mine is very very cheap looking so I don't trust it on critical fasteners and use digital one. I would love ratcheting 3/8" beam torque wrench. I will check the video of Project Farm. Thx. Beam type was recommanded to me by guy that restores cars for living. The advantage is that you feel and see the torque in the wrench no matter how you hold it which is super useful when fighting old rusted bolts in weird locations. Safe torque for loosening/tightening normal 8.8/grade 5 bolts is actually quite low: M6 - 10Nm, M8 - 25Nm, M10 - 50Nm.

@@frenchonion4595 Yes. I'm sure the torque specs are plus or minus a couple of percentage points. But my point is that the beam type is cheaper and the way work is inherent in the design and the material used, which generally doesn't change. You have to get the click type one calibrated once in a while. Of course, the upside is that you can always get them re-calibrated, while the beam type, if the metal becomes fatigued would need heat treatment to bring it back to spec and as such is basically has to be thrown away or no longer used as a torque wrench.

@@woodendoorgarage That is one of the nice things about the beam type, which is that they can be cheaply made and still be very accurate. A cheap mechanism in the click type make it unreliable. All they have to do is get the material right. Presumably you can test it by removing a known torque spec fastener. So if you know a bolt has been torqued at the factory to 50 foot pounds, it should take about 50 foot pounds to loosen it. Mine at least has both loosening and tightening scales.

Some bolts call for thread sealant, rather than oil. When sealing bolt threads, I use anti-seize under the bolt heads, instead of oil that can run into the threads.

@@jimjungle1397 Good points, some bolts do need sealant which is why I said "unless the service manual says otherwise". I wouldn't use anti seize inside an engine since it has metallic particles in it. Not something you want floating around in the oil. Regular grease could be a viable option, but I personally wouldn't use it if it isn't specified because different types of lubricants will affect the torque values. Would oil vs grease under the head affect the final bolt stretch enough to actually matter? I have no idea, but I'd rather not find out the hard way.

@@averyalexander2303 Sometimes I have used thick EP grease under the bolt heads, not oil when sealant is needed.

My city college instructor explained this concept in class😅 words of wisdom.

It just helps with the block (or any threaded object for that matter) threads not “ galling “ on the bolts and causing a false reading when torquing them down. I use a CRC spray bottle on the mist setting to shoot all mine

He said not to over oil the bolts. My guess is that sometimes you can hydrolock the bolt in the bolt hole. When ran in fast with impact or even just being torqued it could crack the casting.

@@docfischer7291 Thank you Doc. That answers my ?.

@@timg2776 Yes Tim I got that part but was wondering why oil the bolts to begin with.