*TOOLS WE USED FOR THIS JOB and ONE SPECIAL NOTE* *If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.* www.amazon.com/shop/timmythetoolman?isPublicView=true *Steering Rack Driver Side Long Bolt Torque Value - 141 ft-lbf (I've heard from people this might be a misprint in some FSMs. After working on other Toyota models, I concur there is a misprint in some manuals for this long bolt and nut. The value should be 96 ft-lbf.)* *6 Ton Jack Stands - (strong stands to support vehicle while you're working underneath it) amzn.to/2MM91w6 *Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks - (nice heavy chocks that don't slip) amzn.to/2mttRWp *Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - (strong gun that's great for removing wheel lug nuts and a host of other fasteners) amzn.to/2M2Y9J1 *Dewalt Batteries amzn.to/2urcx59 *Dewalt Battery Charger amzn.to/2Ud8RlY *Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set - (nice set for removal of different size lug nuts) amzn.to/33uatZt *Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D *Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8 *Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/2m6kQ5y *Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (great for speeding up the removal and reinstallation of fasteners) amzn.to/2utRZsE *Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack) amzn.to/2uoQlZs *Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery amzn.to/2HEFTpu *Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger amzn.to/2uo2o9x *3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set amzn.to/2OehCao *3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set amzn.to/32WIh0M *Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (very handy for multiple applications) amzn.to/31x8BOo *1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (awesome ratchets that will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA *3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set amzn.to/37iQjVt *1/2" Deep Metric Impact Socket Set amzn.to/2WfSTGD *1/2” Drive Impact Swivel amzn.to/2Kv2dBE *Small Digital Caliper - (if you found your tie rods were also way off and needed to figure out how to get them in better alignment side to side) amzn.to/2OfIgB4 *White Paint Pen - (for making match-marks for the outer tie rods) amzn.to/34T8FLs *Large Metric Wrench Set - (for disconnecting and tightening the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod) amzn.to/2TCXLmY *Knipex Diagonal Cutters - (to facilitate the removal of cotter pins and cutting off excess of new cotter pins) amzn.to/300BRRE *OTC Front End Service Kit - (great puller kit for disconnecting the tie rod and balljoint connections) amzn.to/2LuisQc *1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (awesome ratchet you'll fall in love with. The flex head capability and 120 click points of engagement make life easier) amzn.to/2Wnbq2r *1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set amzn.to/330QjGh *1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set amzn.to/35dKQwW *Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (nice set. you might use a small one for prying the passenger side steering rack grommet bracket away from the cross member) amzn.to/2Ob8THw *1/2" Drive Breaker Bar - 24” Long - (you'll need one for breaking free that center bolt for the steering rack) amzn.to/343Vcix *Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set - (these makes disconnecting and retightening the power steering lines much easier) amzn.to/32GoIdy *Oil Drain Pan amzn.to/2QK6kh9 *Silicone Plug Kit - (in case you also wanted to plug the fluid lines to lose less power steering fluid) amzn.to/34Joap7 *Crowfoot Wrench Set - (to use with a torque wrench in case you wanted to get the power steering fluid lines to the exact torque spec) amzn.to/362U9Bo *Brake Cleaner - (to clean up parts before reassembly) amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw *CDI 1/2" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (nice affordable torque wrench for larger fasteners) amzn.to/2UPhyjK *CDI 3/8" Drive Foot Pound Torque Wrench - (nice affordable torque wrench for medium size fasteners) amzn.to/2U2vUA4 *Cotter Pin Set - (for tie rod castle nuts) amzn.to/2OoD38K *Oil Funnel 2 Pack - (to refill power steering system) amzn.to/37z6sG2 **As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.

Video is over 3 years old so you may or may not read this but if you do I'd want you to know that you're inspirational and deserve nothing but respect. Rare video with 0 profanity and 100% educational demonstration. Thank you sir :-)

I use your videos for my 3rd gen 4Runner and I can’t say how much I appreciate guys like you who take the time to video the repairs.

I just finished using your videos to completely replace all the suspension components and steering rack on my 1st gen Tundra. I never would have been able to do the job without your channel. You've explained everything so thoroughly even a backyard wrenching Jabroni like me can get the job done. You guys are unreal,Thank you my man!

Well I’m at the alignment shop and everything turned out great. Thanks Tim , who knows how much I saved in labor costs. I even found the Toyota steering rack for a little over $500 bucks online. So thanks again guys for all the incredible work you do to help the rest of us out!

2002 tacoma 4x4, 300K plus miles, new power steering pump at the same time. Surprised at the amount of gunk in the screen and how difficult it was to clean it out. Great video, really appreciate your efforts and the completeness of the coverage and the additional information.

Fantastic quality video as usual Timmy. This video allowed me to replace the rack on my 2001 Taco. Everything went smoothly.... Until I stripped the intake hole of the rack😢. Murphy's Law😂. Anyways the guys at the machine shop in my area retreaded the hole. No leaks so far. I succeed today because of you Timmy. Much thanks. Keep em coming.

Just wanted to leave a thank you on this video. I was able to do the rack replacement myself and I saved so much money. I really appreciate the videos you guys make. 🙏

Toyota wanted to charge over $90 for just for the rubber grommet on the passenger side. Centering the adjustment on both sides was a great idea! Oil does leak from the valve covers but don't forget to check the oil cooler for leaks. I had a leak for years & finally removed the driver front wheel & skirt to access the oil cooler. Cleaned the block under it and sure enough that was my leak (o-ring cracked) because I did the valve covers twice thinking I missed something. I only changed the grommets because the leaking oil turned them to gel. FYI- Toyota does not sell the middle & driver side grommets, they only come pre-installed on the new rack. Another great video brother!

I can’t thank you enough for all the work you do making these videos. I’ve done my valve cover gaskets, timing belt, steering rack and a whole lot of other maintenance jobs all with your help!

Not all heroes wear capes... some wear coveralls. Thanks a million Timmy!

Maybe the best repair video ever. To the point and not much fluff at all. Didnt skip over anything. Thank you. I think my leak is coming out the seals of the body

Thanks Timmy. The flex head flare wrench was key. I had to leave the low pressure line attached to the rack, I disconnected the hose line from the fitting and managed to get it off while the rack was on the bench. Also couldn’t get my slip joint to slide up the intermediate shaft, but made it work. Thanks again for the videos, I’m extremely jealous of your rust-free rides...

Sway Bar bushing, Control arm bushing, upper and lower ball joints, valve covers, steering rack, rear axle seal, and trailing arms! Thanks for all the videos. Couldn't get those jobs done without you man!

Recently replaced my steering rack, tie rods, upper and lower ball joints with toyota parts after I suffered a LBJ failure on the road in my 2000 sr5 4Runner. Cannot thank you enough for your excellent and thorough instructions on these repairs; I'm back on the road now!

Thanks Timmy! I replaced my 2000 Tundras steering rack with this video. Didn’t have to take out the stabilizer bar cause had just enough access. I tied down the steering wheel and also did new outer tie rods too by just counting the turns. Took me less than four hours. 👍👍

Thank you very much for informative video. I did this job yesterday on a '97. More room to negotiate lines etc on 2wd fortunately. You can follow this video to a tee and be happy with the result!

Thanks for this guide, which was a great assist to me for the rack replacement on my '04 Tacoma. While my Taco is pretty clean, the job was quite time consuming due to salt belt conditions; a few frozen fasteners led to new sway bar retainers and end-links, new PS pressure and return lines, and the requisite toiling beneath the rig - that was fun! This video helped me overcome those challenges, thanks again!

Just completed another job thanks to Timmy The Toolman! And Shawn! Pretty straightforward following your video. Major complications I had were due to a non OEM return line installed that gave me hell upon reinstallation, a broken nut on the right bracket for which I had to get some help from a nearby mechanic and OEM tie rods not fitting due to non OEM lower ball joints installed. A few curve balls, but I was able to deal with them. The one thing that was interesting was that eventhough I measured a million times to avoid having the same issue you had with the steering wheel ending up not straight, I also ended up with a slightly turned steering wheel. However, the guy on the alignment shop was able to straighten it up from the cabin (I don't know how he did it as he was up on the lift) without having to adjust the splines the way you did it. Thanks for all these awesome videos you make!

Such a good teacher! Most men I’ve been around fixing trucks are angry and swearing, negative. Lol wish I could do this work to my 4Runner, but at least I learn from you and know what they are doing and how long it should take. Wish I could hire you instead. 😍

thanks again for the videos, My new rack and pinion arrived here last night off of the UPS truck around 6 pm, so after a bite of supper I went out to the shop and at 2:30 am I staggered back to the house with the new rack in place, then today after a through flush job and reservoir clean out, my 2000 4 runner is back on the road. Took it to a shop for re-alignment, so hats off to you for the helpful videos

i also like to add if you have problem with the intermediate shaft just buy a new one at the dealership. The Toyota p/n 45860-34020 and I purchased it for $74. It made the adjustment centering the steering wheel and wheels that much easier. Thanks again!

You're definitely keeping my truck going. As long as I can control the rust (which I've spent hours grinding and painting) and replacing parts I'll be good for at least 10 more years! Great videos man! Just gotta take care of the leaky valve covers and rear main seal haha

Keep these videos rolling in Timmy. This is all going to come in handy as I am doing all suspension work on my 2001 and cleaning up the bottom of the few rust spots with rubberized paint etc. I currently have a 2013 and I love the way it drives, but the 2001 I really want to keep as a reminder of when I thought I could never own a 4runner. This is the reason I am working on it as a hobby to get that new drive feel again.Looking forward to the next video as you mentioned below.

Timmy says some of the same stuff last year in his comments above regarding the rag joint, ie flex joint and how to slide it out of the way. I elaborate on this so I hope I don't bore you. Warning: Disconnect your battery when performing the steering rack replacement. When the steering rack is disconnected from the steering wheel do not turn the steering wheel fully to the left or right. Leave it in the locked position until you are ready to install the rack. Starting at time 21:00 in the video Timmy has us taking the flex joint apart to facilitate the removal of the steering rack. This is not necessary and just makes life difficult. All you have to do is spray some penetrating fluid on the ends of the flex joint where the two shafts (spleens) are connected. There is a top and bottom bolt that tightens the collars that hold the respective spleens in place. Remove both of these bolts. You can't just loosen the bolts and not remove them because they go through the collar and enter machined grooves in the shafts. Once the bolts are removed slide the flex joint up off the steering rack shaft. You may have to take a screw driver and hammer and tap up on the flex joint to get it to move. There is up and down movement in the steering wheel shaft also. Once the flex joint is slid up off the steering rack shaft push the flex joint, still connected to the steering wheel shaft, off to the side and proceed with removing the steering rack. When the new rack is in place lining everything up is much simpler than what Timmy has us doing because of the way he took the flex joint apart. There is approximately 3.5 turns in the steering gear going left to right or right to left. To center the steering rack, BEFORE INSTALLING, place some vice grips on the steering gear shaft and turn if all the way to the left. Now, counting the turns, turn it overall the way to the right. Should be about 3.5 turns. Turn it back 1.75 turns or half of your turn count and you have centered the rack. Take measurements from the end of inner tie rods to the respective boot end to double check both left and right inner tie rods are sticking out the same distance. Turn the steering rack shaft to make minor adjustments so both ends are perfectly centered. Remove the vice grips Now you can start your install. Be careful not to move the steering rack shaft from its centered position. Once the rack is installed except for the rag joint or flex joint unlock the steering wheel and make sure it is straight. Now move the intact flex joint back over the steering rack spleen and slide it down over the steering rack spleen. You might have to turn the the flex joint just a little to line up the spleen but not very much. I had to tap on the flex joint with a little hammer to get it to go down. The flex joint needs to come down so none of the steering rack shaft spleen is showing. Replace the two bolts in the spleen collars. If the bolts do not go in move the flex joint up or down until the the collar holes lines up with the grooves in the shaft and the bolts go in easily and can be tightened. Timmy's 4runner had an off center steering rack which he had to take into account. You can forget most of what he did with the measurements. With the centered steering wheel connected to a centered steering rack the outer tie rods screw into the inner tie rods about 18-19 turns and should give you a fairly reasonable alignment to get you to the alignment shop regardless of what they were in the beginning. Attach the outer tie rods to the the LCA and install the castle nuts but don't tighten just yet. Eye ball the alignment to make sure it is close. If it is not close you can do what the alignment shop does. You can remove the boot clamps and turn the inner tie rods equally in or out to correct the alignment or you can spin the outer tie rods in or out to get the alignment close. Fine tuning the alignment can only be done by turning inner tie rods since the outer tie rods have to be turned a full turn each time, which may be too much. Once you get the alignment close tighten the castle nuts and insert cotter keys Tighten the lock nuts down on the inner tie rods locking the outer tie rods in place. Reinstall the boot clamps. Of course a professional alignment is necessary So there you have it, a centered steering wheel, connected to a centered steering rack with a close enough alignment to get you to the shop.

By far, the BEST and most detailed video i have found on this procedure. Thanks

Timmy, I have to tell you that of all the KZfaq videos I spend my time watching, yours are probably the best! You are thorough, you do not rush, you do a fantastic job! Being a diy shade tree mechanic myself, I really appreciate all that you do. Keep up the great work!

My buddies' 2002 Sequoia has a really bad leak from the steering rack on the passenger side, where the big rubber grommet lives. I suspect corrosion underneath that bracket assembly has eaten away the metal- it is the original rack also. When we change the rack, we will utilize your video as a guide, because of your great detail brother Tim! Will keep you posted.

Thanks for the detailed video. It helped me get the job done. Took it in for an alignment and the shop called me back and said it wouldn't align and they think I got a bad rack. Ahhhhhh! Took it in to a different shop the next day and they got it aligned perfectly. Got my $ back from the 1st shop and I didn't have to the job twice. Thanks again.

Finally replaced all front rear bushings, bearings, seals, springs, ball joints (except upper). I never want to do this again :) but thank you so much for all the suspension videos and torque specs. Not everyone posts torque specs!!

5:18 Most of my power steering fluid quickly leaked out while driving. I pulled over and looked under the truck "2002 4Runner". It looked as if the fluid was leaking from under the rubber grommet. I bought some fluid from a gas station and kept filling it with fluid to try to get it home. On the way home, I stopped at a service station that I usually take my Honda to and told him about the fluid leaking from the center of the rack and ask about replacing the rack. He was swamped with vehicles to work on so he couldn't look at it or receive the vehicle for repair, but he did tell me that the only places a rack can leak from is on the ends... Not the center. He said it's probably one of the lines leaking. He told me on what day I could bring the truck back so that he could troubleshoot and fix it. I figured that if it's a line that is leaking, I could easily replace the line myself. The next morning I jacked the truck up, removed the under carriage plates, wiped everything down, so that I could look for the leak. I put more fluid in it, started the truck and got under it to look for the leaking line. Under pressure, the fluid is pouring out and still... None of the lines look as if they are leaking. The fluid still looks like it is coming from under the rubber grommet as if the rack casing has a crack in it. I am taking it in to the mechanic for repair and will update this comment with the findings, but has anyone else experienced a steering rack leaking from the casing itself?

Great video. By far the dirtiest job I ever done.

Awesome video as always, I hope anyone who needs help or wants to see how the job will look like finds this video. Thanks a lot Tim! Keep up the awesome work!

Thank you for a great video, it helped a lot when I did my rack. Something that people might find helpful is that my outer nut was seized on good and tight and I could not get it to move. What I ended up doing was this. The outer pipe is a short 4 inch piece of pipe that feeds into a rubber hose with just a pressure clamp. I disconnected this hose which allowed me to get at the inner nut which I was able to get loose. I removed the whole rack and once out I then took the outer nut off and got the job done. I had to use a pipe wrench to get it off.

Keep them videos coming! I use your videos more than anybody else because you go more in depth and do your best to show that you are doing while explaining it. I have used many other videos of yours to do repairs and it has always turned out in the end. Thank you!

Just did my first ever steering rack swap on my 95 Surf (4runner) thanks to this awesome video. Thanks Tim, your videos are the best!

Thank you so much for these videos. Everyone has helped me do these projects just as you described down to the size socket needed and torque specs to go back together.

Tim - you da man...what more can we say brother?! Just wanted to add this - I was able to loosen the hydraulic lines into the rack and pinion with a normal 17mm wrench. I agree though - if you have the style wrench Tim does, it makes more contact. Luckily I didn't strip the nut. If that nut gets stripped, you're basically going to have to buy a whole new line. Also, getting the 22mm and (2) 19mm bolts loose was a total B using regular ratchets. I almost had to break down and buy the same big ass Dewalt impact gun Tim uses, but I went medieval on it and hit my ratchet with a small sledge hammer. After already spending over $4,000 on a JDM engine and Magnaflow Overland exhaust, the wife was NOT going to allow a purchase of a $300 impact driver. :) Thanks again for all you do Timmy. Toyota truck owners everywhere owe you and your team a debt of gratitude!

You have more faith in Jack stands than me! I always default to placing wood under the frame out of paranoia. Awesome video, and I may tackle this now since you've provided such a great tutorial.

I have a 98 Tacoma that I'm going to do the same job to. Your video is a great tutorial. THANKS

Tim, thanks for your advice recently on my pwr steering. Looks like the trouble is something I never gave a thought to. There's a u-joint at the end of the steering column which allows an almost 90 degree turn to the pwr steering rack. Looks like that's the problem. Who'd have guessed. Not available new, but I have a lead on a good used part. Figured this out by lifting the front end with the engine off, and turning the wheel has the same lumpy feel as with power. One for the books. Don't know if 4runners have this joint or not, but you might want to store this one in your head somewhere.

U guys are awesome! Replacing my daughters right now on her 2000 4Runner.

Thanks Timmy I watched all three videos I’m going to check steering shaft for play and the inner bushing in the rack. rack bushings already done.

Timmy and Sean, you guys are simply amazing. Another great video for my 4Runner. I just sent you $10 as a thank you!!

Thanks for sharing. I am sure you already know this, but when I work on my FJC's alignment I use the seat belt and wrap on the steering than click it into place. Wheel will stay centered.

Can't tell you how helpful your videos are. I have a new rack I'm installing soon - THANK YOU.

In depth and specific. It's a gnarly job. I'll be watching this few times. Thanks for the video!

The instructions with my new rack said it was centered at the factory and not to turn it. So i put a piece of pipe through the windows and taped the steering straight. Then you know when you slide the sleeve back down everything will end up centered when the wheels are straight. The last guy who worked on your 1999 thought he could center the steering wheel by adjusting the tie rod ends. Doing that takes the rack out of center (like yours) and it won't have the same range of motion from side to side.

Thanks for the video doing the steering rack this weekend on my 2001 Toyota Tacoma with 286k miles. Very informative and thorough video.

whoever gave you a thumbs down are butt heads. This is such an OUTSTANDING video. Thank you Timmy.

As always I say Timmy thank you for your time to share amazing videos to the 4runner fans here and best regards from Houston

Why would you thumbs down these vids? I mean they elaborately explain each step and the entire process of the repair. Maybe the thumbs down folks are just sucky mechanics who can’t fix stuff smh lol. Thanks for the uploads!

Timmy, Thanks for this video. I really like the way that you are pretty thorough with your explanation of the jobs your show. I'm going to attempt to replace the rack on my 03 Tundra this weekend. It looks pretty similar to the 4Runner rack. Thanks!

Thanks for the walkthrough man, didn't know if I could do this job, but because of y'all I got it done. Thanks!

Great detail, awesome work!! Refreshing to have almost no rust on the vehicle in the West Coast.

Thanks for the great video! I just wanted to add if you live in the northeast and deal with the winters with the salt you might have seized 17 mm nuts on the high pressure and return line at the rack. Just cut the old lines and order new lines.

I’m doing this job right as I’m typing. Thank God everything is going pretty smooth. I just need to disconnect the 2 fluid lines and the 4 bolts holding the rack and it’s out. Gnna take a break, drink an energy drink and cool down for a bit. I still have time tmrw if I need another day. 1:45 p.m

nice video tim. With these......i feel like i can keep my 4runner for another 20 years! Keep the repair vids coming!

fantastic vid man, I may tackle this with my son, but first, need to buy some more tools (grunt grunt)!

When centering, why not just count the revolution at the steering shaft connection (rag Joint). Go from one stop to the other and then split in half. So if it is 8 full revolution from one stop to the other stop, then turn it to one stop and go back 4 revolutions (half way). I think that should put your rack at center. -That is what I did for mine, and it was pretty close on the tie rod threads. Took it to the shop and the guys loved doing the alignment, with all new parts it was the easiest one of the week. :-)

Thanks I’ll watch the video on the reservoir cleaning see how that goes

I’m a little joules on how easy you got that upper rack bushing mount bolt out..

Great video, just one thing about the alignment, if your talking about toe in, toe out if one wheel is out a lot it will split the toe and both will be equal all the time no matter what, one side cannot be more out then the other side.

Another outstanding video with excellent teaching points. Thank you.

In the middle of this job last night had to quit. Couldn't get the 17mm flare nut wrench on the bigger nut of the tube going into the rack. For some reason I can get the regular 17mm open end wrench on there but not the flare. Gonna try again now. Also, on my truck, for the power steering pump, the hoses aren't 3/8"! I got a "power steering return hose" from the oreillys that's 3/8 to replace the old cracked one (and also putting in a magnefine filter), took off the old hose and is clearly a bit bigger. Couldn't get the 3/8" hose on there.

Very thorough! Thanks! Replacing the rack on my little sisters 2002 4runner now. This has been a huge help!

Hey Tim, do y’all have any merch? Would love to buy from you guys, I’m very appreciative of the work you guys share with us.

If you have an old wrench you can make it into a flarenut wrench just cut a slot out. Another trick, clamp vicegrip pliers around outside of flarenut to lock it on for no chance of slip. Works great on smaller flarenuts like on brakes.

Good afternoon, before I watch the whole video. My question is will this video also work on a regular rear wheel drive 97 4runner

Great Work Man! Love your videos and commentary. I think the steering wheel ended up off kilter when you were all finished because you moved the entire rack over 4.8mm. Since the mounting bolts on the frame are fixed in one location, you are essentially resetting the "center" point of the rack/wheel connection. Lengthening the tie rod on one end and shortening it on the other should certainly require you to reset which splines you use on the rag joint.

I have a '99 Tacoma and a '97 4Runner; I'm an instant sub!

Found that some plastic wrapped around the rack boot & some clear tubing w/ 1/2" ID (slipped it right over the steering fluid lines at the rack) helped prevent steering fluid all over the rack boot. Looks like I waited too long to do a steering fluid flush. My steering fluid reservoir had a hole in the screen!

Maybe a good idea would be to make match marks on the rag joint where the 2 plates meet and that would definitely make things a whole lot easier. I’m literally next to do this job. I already ordered the the brand new TOYOTA steering rack and should be here by the 9th, so looking to you guys to steer me in the right direction! The drivers side was leaking like crazy.

Fantastic video as always Timmy. I'm here because of a leak in my 2001 Taco. Wanted to know what tool I would need and the difficulty level involve. Thanks to you video I will do this joy myself. All the best to you.

awesome video!!! love my 3rd gen and this video is saving me money! Thanks man!!!!

How do you know when it's time to change the steering rack what are what are the symptoms on any vehicle??

Thanks man! Im using this to do it by myself. I hope.

It’s also probably worth mentioning that it looks like there are rubber “o” rings at the ends of the flare nut fittings that could/ should be replaced. Who knows for some people it may be the difference between a leak or no leak. Just my 2 cents 🙂

Thank you again Tim. Awesome video, I learned a lot. Keep up the good work👍 And I’ll see you in the next one 👌

Holy damn mate, I never comment on youtube but this was great. I might even be able to do it without messing up. Thanks Tim you rock!

I sure appreciate your advice to drop the 141 ft lbs on the long bolt to 96 ft lbs but that got me wondering how we know that the 96 ft lbs is correct? The Sequoia example is a good one, but is that bolt the same dimensions as in the 4Runner? Got to be sure and safe when dealing with the steering rack. Keep up the good work,

LOL Your f--- funny. Sorry my 61 year old eyes missed it.l bet Sean was rubbing it in to you.I’ll keep my glasses on for now on.Thanks again.😎

You, sir, have saved me a lot of money! Do you have a 3'x5' flag I could buy for my shop on your schwag site?

I was about to replace mine but it seems to be too BIG of a job to do alone. Thanks for the video.

Thanks Tammy I’ll let you know what I figured out

Hey Timmy, I’ve pretty much replaced everything in the front end besides the steering rack and the Lower control arms/bushings. Where do you recommend I start? Should I replace the lower control arms or just the bushings, or should I start at the steering rack. My 4Runner has 280,000 miles. Thanks for all hard work and videos that you guys put out!!

Ok. Your videos are amazing and have made me feel like superman with all the tasks I have accomplished with your tutorials. However, I am now struggling big time. I've done some work with my steering rack like replacing bushings, and moving it out of the way, but thought I'd watch this video again to see if im missing something. I swear I must be missing something because it seems like you have so much more room to work around your steering rack than I do (1998 4runner V6 LTD). I've tried 3 different types and sizes of ratchets with various sockets, and seem to have zero room to work around the vertical bolt in the center of the rack ) i know you reiterate this is the most difficult part, but ya, its difficult. Very difficult. Almost to the point where I'm going to throw in the towel. It takes me forever to tighten that bolt since I can only get a click (if Im lucky) out of a ratchet, and have not been able to get a torque wrench in there no matter what I try. I keep watching your videos and it looks like you have way (+/- 2cm at least) more room to work with than I do. Heck, the pressure lines coming out of my rack are in contact with the undercarriage (near that vertical bolt) and it looks like you have inches of space to work with. What am I missing?!?!? Thanks again for the great videos!

Tim, thanks so much for all the work putting your videos together. They are so helpful. Do you recommend buying a Toyota steering rack? They are double the cost of aftermarket ones, $720 or so. If you were to buy an aftermarket steering rack, what brands would you recommend or do you have experience with?

Replacing my rack for the second time... Blew the seals on my replacement within a year or two. The commentary cracked me up. "Sway ba,r steering rack, blablabla". "If you're looking for a torque spec for this, dont have one, dont care" LOL I think we call that good-n-tight (with german accent)

Great video Timmy definitely helped me out I used this one and you’re bushing replacement video to help me do the rack and sway bar bushings. 👍

Thanks Timmy for the very detailed and well explained videos! Keep up the great work.

Dam.....so glad i found you, this video is amazing and going to help so much, thanks for all of your help and willing to do this for everyone. Amazing!

Just 1 ? It looks like you reused your outer tie rods? When do you recommend replacing those? Thanks for all your help 🎉

Awesome video Timmy, very thorough and informative

Timmy, I’m about to knock this job out on my 3rd gen 4Runner next week. Keep me in your thought lol 😂

19:15 helpful KZfaq ad. Thanks Tim for all your help😎🏁🚗

What a pain in the patootee eh? Thanks again for a great tutorial

For the life of me I couldn't get to the pressure line bracket from the power steering lines. But I finally realized that I could access it from above via the open hood. So maybe that will help someone else in the same situation. Now if I could just those nuts free from the steering rack....

I love those tekton impact sockets so much

Really appreciate your videos! They've saved me hundreds. And I've learned alot along the way! I'm just in the middle of this project and have realized the new rack and the new outer tie rods did not come with the outer rod lock nut. My old lock nuts are pretty rough (it's got 340k miles so to be expected). Do you happen to know a part number? Maybe from another vehicle? It seems to be a M20x1.5mm. Cheers!