Hey that is great! Glad to help. Thanks for watching.

Was it easy to do?

thomasville ga toyota 3600.

@west_park7993 that’s probably fair if they are using Toyota parts and getting the head checked.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB toyota buys parts and liquids from autozone. the cheapest. a stp filter costs around 7 dollars, but dealers buy it for 2.75 and then sells it to us for 20. i know cause i deliver parts there.

Glad to help!

Right on! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching!

They installed a fle-pro headgasket 2 years after still running good 188,000 miles.

500 dollars is very cheap.

Anyway you can send me the mechanic information I live in San Diego and I have a 2012 Prius V with the same head gasket issue

@@user-qd2cl1ww6uthat’s a fair price

@@rosaritomex4223 yo send the mechanic shop info

Good luck with your repair!

Thank you kind sir!

Thanks for watching!

How did you get the EGR cooler off? I’m having a HELL of a time with those torx studs. In fact, one of them was rusty and broke off. I’m going insane here!

Look up videos specifically how to remove egr​@@dreadfulrumor6580

Thanks for watching!

I was just about to leave this same comment - had to go online and look up correct torque specs since 190 ft lbs seemed a bit much

Absolutely! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching!

Once you get the wiper cowl out of the way the plugs are easy as a Corolla. I have a video on cowl removal here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJuRZt2G2r3Wkmw.htmlsi=VFjJwryUG2RvAvn3

Even if it takes me 4 hours.....I don't get paid 50 an hour so it makes more sense that I'm doing it. Plus then it's done how about thay

Thanks for watching!

hi bro just wanted to follow up on this, what did you do about the missing blob of gasket goo? was it a problem?

Thanks for watching!

Absolutely! Glad to help.

I use RTV black silicone, it can be purchased at any auto part store.

you must put some lubricant on the thread so all your twisting force goes to stretch the bolt, and not to fight the dry thread surfaces.

C&C Automotive is probably the best place around here for that.

The factory puts it all the way around so I do too. The head bolts are really tight so I would use a half inch breaker to remove.

I use a vacuum filler but you can fill with coolant and run with the cap off for a while and most the time, it will self bleed.

Yes just use a deep 19 mm socket and a 18inch or longer breakerbar, have it set up against the left hand side of frame, and hit the start button for a sec, the crank will release itself. easy peasy....

Yes I would replace those

ok thanks, i will go ahead and replace the guides and bolts

Unfortunately I am an instructor and I am no longer working on cars

Sounds like your timing is off a little. Did you get this figured out?

Thank you!

This is not mine, I have a CT200h! This is a friend of mine, and it has 147k miles. Thanks for the support!

Impact gun.

It's supposed to be a 10mm double hex but you'll be lucky to find one. A 12 triple square fits but the angles are different in the corners. Some people use Allen keys. An Allen is only a single hexagon the double hex is just two hexagons on top of each other. 49nm then 90⁰ followed by 45⁰

No, because the chain link marks set the timing. There are no timing marks on the cams so there is no way to check timing that way.

DONT YOU CURSE ME!

If there is any noticeable wear yes, but there normally isn’t.

I have seen the VVT solenoid fail and cause these issues, maybe it is a coincidence that it went out at the same time.

Hi Jessica, What'd you find out? EGR Circuit like Cooler, Valve, Pipe or into the Intake EGR passages? Anything else? All's is good with yours or still issues?

Colored links line up to marks on the sprockets

how do you draw a line on a black oily bolt with sharpie???. Perhaps, you can take a file and make a cut on the head, so you can see a white line on black head.

@west_park7993 I used a silver sharpie, but I guess you could use green, blue, red, hell even purple if they make that color. There was no issue with oily bolt heads for me, but if there were I'd just spray some brakleen on a rag and wipe each one before dropping it into place. Honestly if you can't figure out how to make it happen, maybe doing a head gasket is too big of a job for you in the first place.

@@GrandPrix46 you are right. the bolts arrive dry, and you can use silver pen. however, when you need this mark, if it is on the head, it will be hiding behind the tool. I can put a mark on the tool extension. sticky tape like a flag? or again, just a sharpie mark on sticky tape. this is my first head job, and i am learning from the best

@@west_park7993 You'll be fine, bud. This isn't a difficult job, most important things are to get the head machined at a good machine shop (mine needed new intake guides at @ 223k), clean everything really well, keep everything you remove organized, make sure everything is clean before reassembly, and use a half-decent torque wrench. Doesn't have to be Snap-On, but I wouldn't use HF junk, either. It's not a race car engine, if you're off just a bit it's not gonna hurt anything. Think I've put about 9k so far since doing the hg on my 2010. Lube the top end up as you're putting it back together, too. I dropped all the lifters, or whatever they call them on a dohc engine, in a small plastic tub that my black forest ham came in half filled with 20w50. Before installing the valve cover, I ran 75/90 gear oil over the top of both cams. Was a pretty smooth first start after putting it all back together. You can use the breaker bar itself as an angle meter too, 90* is a 1/4 turn, etc. So if I start at the 12 o'clock position, 3 o'clock will be 90*, the lines on the bolt heads are also a reminder in case you miss one. You'll know right away when you see one in a completely different position than the others. Last thing I can think of is make sure you don't have a bent rod, if one piston doesn't go as high as the rest, stop wasting time working on it and get another engine.

@@GrandPrix46 thanks for your long encouraging letter. i really appreciate your concern and kindness. i done everything on a car, AC, clutch, rack-pinion, also engine swap . this is my first head job. I work slowly, because i keep everything organized, i clean all parts bbq starter, tooth brush, etc. I place bunches of bolts in plastic bags... i did not loose any valve cap, i put all lifters, all rockers. i have a cheap hf torque wrench, but i calibrated it myself at the 36 ft.lb point.... got my tool box to the local ups. they have TOLEDO balance that's calibrated by the DOACS. Guaranteed accuracy. I adjusted the tool box to 36 lb. Then I placed a 1/2 extension horizontal on my vice. I attached a metal profile to the handle of my torque wrench, so that the 1/2 square is at the mid point center of gravity. So, when the wrench is attached horizontally to the extension in the vice, the wrench and metal bar are balanced. Then i measured 12 inches and hung the toolbox. adjusted the calibration nut to the point of exact click. voila. my cheap wrench acts 36 pounds at 1 ft and clicks..... my wife witnessed me when i torqued the bolts. (GLP: good laboratory practices ) she followed me to which is the next bolt... 36 then 90 deg, then 45 deg.... i graduated from mathematical school, i know what degrees are. 4 bolts form a rectangle, that is very close to a square. the diagonal of this rectangle is 48/42 degrees to the two neighbor sides. so, this is a prety good marker for 45 deg. The breakbar bends, you know, you can not be 100% perfect... as I finished the job, I relaized, i can do perfect 90 or 45 degree. this is how: Prepare 2 wire loops with a straight wire end. the loops are slightly smaller than the extension diameter. insert the extension in the loops and adjust the loops above the xzn-12 mm so the straight ends are like clock arrows. One of them you can fix attached to the say edge of the head. use c-clamps, vice grips or assistant. the other loop-arrow turns with the extension shaft. Set it 45 or 90 degree to the right. As you turn the bolt, the upper hand turns, and the lower is fixed. When they align, this is your exact 45 or 90 degree... see, as we go tru the job, we get better ideas........ i dont have bent rods........ i have some lucas oil heavy duty. it is very sticky, looks like 75/90..... i put a few drops of it in each lifter well, but it leaked the other end. i guess, before i put the valve cover gasket, i shall pour some lucas all over the cams.... i am not bragging, i just want to share my ideas and experience. again, it was pleasure talking to you. timing chain tomorrow.

Make sure your hybrid plug is installed correctly.

@AutoScholarwithMrB thanks, I hadn't slid it to the right....now that issue is fixed, I'm getting a Check Hybrid System fault. If I go into maintenance mode, it'll start and run for 10 seconds or less and shut back down. Cleaned the MFS to no avail. Do you have any thoughts from here? Sorry to wear ya out on this. Thanks

@@alanm6764 make sure the vacuum lines under the intake are tight and correct. If not that just double check all connections.

Cleaning the EGR system, coolant changes, proper tune ups all help. Mostly it is caused by the engine constantly heating and cooling. I’ve seen them blow at 80k and 300k for the first time, so I would imagine how the car is used has something to do with it as well. Thanks for watching!

Keep the coolant flushed every couple of years and that should extend the life.

I purchased my 2011 in 2017 and did the first coolant change around 125k miles. I wish I had cared earlier, had I changed from 50k like they advise.... My head gasket lasted 214 thousand miles, pretty respectable.

I do to check for cracks and warpage.

Exactly..was going to say the same thing. I've done several head gaskets and was prepping for this particular model and noticed removal was complete opposite in this video. My suggestion is to use this video so you have a visual of the tear down and reassembly. Go by repair manual for internal tear down and reassembly. Manual also states to oil thread bolts as does most manufacturers to ensure proper torque specs.

Pin? What do you mean?

@@AutoScholarwithMrB pin I mean the threaded bolt with the star head, a nut attaches it to the exhaust manifold

Just want to update, the reason why my shit sounded like open headers was because the manifold gasket had fell and only half of it was on Lol. So put it on correctly and tightened eveything down to 27 ft lbs as suggested, but I found that it smelled like exhaust still. So I tightened it even more and it improved smell to where I barely smelled it but I do smell something. I’m using a felpro gasket and it’s thicker than oem I believe so not sure how hard I have to toque it down but I have them torqued pretty good

@@radiospankdid you get the manifold gasket on without have to take the cams off and timing cover

@@lane5477 yes, I had to slide it down in there, it was tight and difficult but I had already put on Head gasket and torques down the head bolts so didn’t want to undo that. I pretty much lined up one hole on each side pressing down the gasket one side at a time

It should smoke for a few minutes maybe out of the tailpipe and maybe a minute on the exhaust manifold due to grease getting on it while working. If it is white smoke or steam, there is a possibility the head or block is leaking.

Wow, never knew they made a special socket for this. I’ve always used a triple square, seems to fi perfect. Also I did omit the oil tip, but always oil them. Thanks for the update, and thanks for watching!

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Toyota's not alone in putting all their repair info behind a paywall. Very frustrating, doubly so with the prices the dealerships charge. I'm an armchair, duffer DIY'r, really appreciate these hands-on videos. Watched your brake accumulator video too; just hope ours hangs in there. I chased down some of those missing torque specs you mentioned: 42:23 Exhaust manifold to engine torque: 15 ft/lb It's heat shield: 9 ft/lb 53:32 Fuel rail hold-down bolts: 15 ft/lb 54:05 Water pump: 2 (35mm) bolts towards rear: 19 ft/lb 3 (15mm) bolts towards front: 15 ft/lb 57:00 Intake manifold: 2 nuts and 3 bolts: 21 ft/lbs Throttle body to intake, hold-down bolts/nuts: 7 ft/lbs EGR pipe to intake, two bolts: 7 ft/lbs

There is no way to get a good camera angle on it to show it. Have you tried a small wrench?

I can’t say for sure, but I have never heard of anyone doing it.

Just replace the gasket every 200,000 miles. 👍

Lightly oil with engine oil according to Toyota.

Nice, thanks for the reply👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

I am an instructor, I do not do outside work anymore unfortunately.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB ok ty

Engine will turn no matter what.

I figured it out. You need to lift the front wheels off the ground to spin the crank shaft. :-) That allowed me to move the crank position to TDC. I couldnt find this anywhere online. Go figure. I called a mechanic and they gave the 411.@@AutoScholarwithMrB

I think removing the spark plugs also helps to avoid compression @@AutoScholarwithMrB

Amazon link in the video description for the OEM pump from Amazon. I have used the pump in the link for every replacement and have had zero problems.

The chain tensioner gasket is a problem area for oil leaks on these along with the timing cover. I’ve never seen the head gasket externally leak oil.

is there any way to email a picture to make sure that's what it is? We are praying we don't have to do the head again 😭. Thank you!! We had a trip planned but cancelled due to the oil leak we found. We were so nervous that something was wrong.

@@kristinaamante4074 if you’d like you can send it to me on Facebook. Look up Auto Scholar with Mr. B.

Hmmm, never had that issue. Maybe use a clamp of some sort to hold it still to the cam sprockets?

@@AutoScholarwithMrB How would you recommend releasing the tensioner? Using a ratchet to spin the crank?

@@thomasweis that normally works.

When releasing the tensioner you should, using the 14mm wrench, move away from the tensioner like 1 cm or 2 then back toward the tensioner till you hear a click, that should mark that the tensioner actually released.

No, never do that

Fixed it. When putting the hybrid battery plug back in, I pushed it in and flipped the handle to the left but didn’t slide the handle to the right at the end. I didn’t see it come out initially and had no experience with reinstalling it. Huge relief when I got that figured out.

Oh I missed your first notification, sorry! Yes you are not alone in that mistake, it is very common. Thanks for watching and sorry again for the late reply.

So the labor guide is calling for 17.2 hours for customer pay, but for some reason they are including engine removal in that quote, which isn’t necessary. With the extras thrown in, I would say it normally takes me about a day and a half. I’m somewhat slow on heavy mechanical work like this however. If you are a beginner, three to four days is probably what it would take and what I would plan for.

I assume you have this taken care of but if not you need to put it in park, turn on the manual cable brake and apin it off with an impact wrench. It spins counterclockwise.

just pry up a breaker bar (19 inch or longer), use a 19mm socket and have soemone crank the engine for a sec, it'll come right off... Easy...

Scotch brite is fine! I use a special 3M disk and a die grinder to clean mine but I do a lot of head gaskets. It shouldn’t take much to clean it. Thanks for watching! :)

@@AutoScholarwithMrB would it be ok to sand it with 320 grit wet dry on a flat block and then use a scotch pad to rough the surface?

Links are in the description

I used a customer provided Cloyes timing kit. First time I’ve ever used cloyes but no problems yet. I normally use Toyota parts only.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you!

It should last as long as the first, maybe more if you used the Felpro gasket. Just make sure your cooling system stays clean and you replace the water pump every 100k or so.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Replacing the electric water pump on the motor and also the inverter every 100k is part of my preventative maintenance schedule. Electric water pumps do not usually giving you a warning before they fail.

Yes, sounds like the head gasket may have failed. Is the coolant level low?

@@AutoScholarwithMrB Yes， coolant lose as well. Is it good to replace the engine or replace the head gasket?

@@user-qd2cl1ww6u if you have a lot of km an engine may be a better option.

As long as you stay within the specifications that Toyota gives for machining, you should not have an issue.

@@AutoScholarwithMrB thank you. I’ll keep that in mind when doing the job. It looking forward to it but your video does inspire confidence. It’s my wife’s car so if I kill her car she’s going to kill me. No pressure but I’m not spending 3.5 k for this.

Anaerobic are for seamless metal to metal surfaces. It will leak at the headgasket and camplate gaps

lol, it’s a Prius dude. Nobody is gonna do a full rebuild on a Prius. we just want it to run. No 100hp hybrid is going to be bending any rods. If it passes a comp/leak down then who cares?