Look at that insulation in those walls someone passed their 4 way inspection congrats Trent Allie and Brandon on the passing and also Dean the man The HVAC Man🎉😅😂

I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that noticed the 4 way went well. All that insulation on the wall's and no jackets and also no complain that the temperature is low and cold in there by Allie. Catch you all on Trent & Allie, have a good Sunday you'll.

Trent , I see you passed four way inspection with all of the insulation, good job!

I noticed you already pass your electrrician inspection and insulationed your Garage before next Monday's video. I do not miss anything here lol. I'm carpenter by trade. I enjoy everything you guys do the pass two years. Keep up a good work, love you guys.

I love “Trent’s Garage”. My dad was a professional mechanic and body builder. He was great at bringing my brothers in his garage and teaching them. I was always interested in learning but being a girl I was not allowed. It’s so way cool to be able to watch you and along the way you explain all the how and why’s. I thank you for inviting me to tag along via your videos. They are so much fun for me to watch. Trent if ever you have a daughter bring her into your garage as you do your sons. It was a bonding moment with my dad that he missed.

Funny that Trent is doing this intricate engine rebuild and everyone just notices the insulation so the 4-way was done (including me).... ;-) Congrats on that and you made the engine rebuild look easy or at least doable (until this point)

I really respect the attitude trent has towards feedback and learning. Great example for younger folks!

Trent,use break in oil only! If you do, drain it after 250 miles and go back with Synthetic. Valvoline Racing oil and it will last forever! I did that with a 350 Chevy 28 years ago and it still runs and not a drop of oil! I have used this way for over 42 years and never had any issues!

Just for future thought before u install pistons into the cylinder, u should clean out each cylinder with a shop rag and transmission fluid. Transmission fluid is a detergent. And even after cleaning the engine in a parts washer there is still always a little dirt imbedded in the cylinder wall. Just good for thought.

Trent, having done some wrenching in my day, I am enjoying the heck out of your videos of the rebuild. You are light years ahead of anything that I’ve ever done with an engine and I admire your precision and attention to detail. I am looking forward to the first time you fire that puppy up and I’m sure it’s going to purr or roar like a cat! And congrats on passing the four-way!

I see you have insulation up in the shop so that must mean the garage passed the 4 way inspection? Congratulations! It is amazing that your auto mechanic knowledge began in school, they did a great job!

In the good old days I used STP when assembling the bearing and caps. I’m not sure it’s even made anymore.

Took a chance and bid on a 25 yr old Toyota tacoma 4x4 2.7 with 20k on the odo. Flawless and perfect when I showed up. A collector owned it along with a warehouse full of other amazing vehicles. I did change out the tires immediately per they were almost 20 yrs old. Timmy C Arizona

When I use to rebuild engines, I always used STP additive to put on the main and rod bearings. To keep them lubed

LOL the heck with the 4-way inspection let's put a 427 big-block in that thing

In the "olden" days, we used white lithium grease on all the bearings for initial start up. Main bearings, rod bearings, cam bearings and cam lobes.

I noticed that you didn’t check the bearing clearances with plastic gaugei. I know it’s all new but any thing can happen it doesn’t Hurt to double check and make sure it’s right!😊😊

Dave laughing at Trent’s report of snow accumulation…😂😂. Too funny

In my experience with synthetic oil, they are great after 2500 miles 500 is too soon. I have used a decent oil for the initial startup and cam break in. Then I drain it put in a good oil and run the first 500 miles. Then drain and put good oil in drive to 2500 miles then drain and fill with good synthetic oil. Your rings will seat in, and you will have a good broken in engine. As for the assemble lube has been around my 60 years, they have a thicker viscosity, so it clings the parts longer than straight oil and helps with the initial startup. keep up the great videos.

I know this is all about Trent's Garage, and, but I see insulation so you must have passed 4 way? Congratulations!

Another Sunday with Trent's Garage..watching and learning. Thanks for share Trent..Love you 🙌❤️

Sorry Trent should have watched faarther into the video. you are doing great. Lucas is good stuff

Mechanic tips! Never lube bolt threads, it will change the applied torque value! Only lube high friction contact points, lightly coat the cylinder walls with regular engine oil!

Four bolt mains impressive. O what a feeling

Hooray for the insulation!!!

Looks like the 4 way must have gone well. Have fun with it Trent. Had a Stroke and lost vision in one eye and loss of motor function on one side so living my life watching you do all the things I cant any more

This is commonly called rebuilding "the bottom end". Becaue you have to flip the block over to get to the crankshaft, connecting rods, and bearings. When he starts working on the camshafts, cylinder heads, valves and timing then he'll be rebuilding "the top end". Gearhead speak. Brandon needs to ask more questions. I love hearing Trent's explanation.

I can predict the future! You passed the four-way. (the insulation is the reveal!)

even in the old days assembly lube was there to use. I used it in the flathead engine I built back in the late 50's.

In "olden days" we used STP on the parts during assembly....

Congrats on the 4-way pass. I love watching you rebuild this engine. So much knowledge in so many areas.

100% true, 500 miles and then change oil.

Trent, I've never seen an engine being built so I appreciate having you explain what you're doing and why you are doing it.

Looks good to me. I always put the crankshaft in dry with the bearings, then torque the cap bolts using plasti gage. Then take all of the caps back off and check the oil clearance between the bearing and the crankshaft by reading the plasti gage. I've learned not to trust that bearings are made correctly, because like all mass produced things, they're sometimes not, and if you get one that's too tight, it can spell disaster, and too lose will hurt oil pressure. Once I've done that, I put the crankshaft in as you did, and depending on if I'm going to use the engine right away or if it could sit awhile, I've used the same assembly lube you did, I've used stp, I've used Vaseline, and I've used red n tacky bearing grease. As you torque each main cap, give the crankshaft a turn, this way if you have a tight one, or if something binds, you'll know which cap to close in on and check out. Then, when you're putting the rings on the pistons, you need to check the ring gaps by putting the piston in the cylinder straight and checking the gap with a feeler gauge. If the gap is too tight, you can file one end of the ring to open the gap up. Ring gap is important because it allows for temperature. If the gap is too tight, the ends could meet and damage the piston and possibly the cylinder wall. You said something about a turbo or super charger, so you'll want to loosen the ring gaps to the loose end of the specs. The bearings and oil clearances, ring gaps, as well as the piston to cylinder wall clearances may have already been checked at the machine shop, and most of the time they're ok, but then there's that one time they're not that comes to bite you! The only other thing is you need to pay attention to where your ring gaps line up on the piston. The bottom 2 rings are oil control rings, and I like to line the gaps up 180⁰ from each other, then the bottom compression ring 90⁰ from the oil ring gap and the top ring 180⁰ from that. Also, some rings have a taper built into them, so there is a top and a bottom, and usually there is a dot indicating the top somewhere near the ring end. All ring manufacturers are different in how they want that done, and there should be instructions on that packed with your rings, if there is no marking, then there is no top or bottom, and it can go either way. You also need to assembly lube or oil the piston skirts for the same reason that you lube the rings, there won't be any oil getting to them at first, and you don't want a seizure. Spin the engine over a few times and make sure nothing is binding. There is also a spec for crankshaft end play that you should check once everything is together, as well as side clearances between the rods and each other and the crankshaft journals. Wow that got long, and you might already know alot of it, sorry for the novel.

Even Tang is different than what I drank as a child.

White Lithium Lube was the old way for break-in protection

I drove a 2003 Chevrolet S 10 quad 4 door long truck bed for 22 years my Dad n I back in the day had to work on my Ol Truck lots of times I coukd tell you some Truck stories Trent lol 😆 glad I'm a SUV Honda Owner now my Ol truck I miss I sold mine!

hey Trent use assembly lube on all your bearings like lugriplate 105 or power punch. oil will go away after a while. I assume you will not be starting it in a month or so. Personal note. dont use Penzoil it is garbage. Valvoline or Mobil 1 is a much better choice

Ok Trent I don't much at all about motors but I did own a 2007 Tacoma with the 6 cylinder engine which was 236 hp and I never thought it had the power it needed.I test drove a 2022 and to me it seems the truck itself has gotten heavier and the horse power was 278 and it felt really weak so I no your talked about maybe adding a super charger to this engine or turbo can't remember exactly what you said but I think it's going to struggle to move those huge tires and truck. Just my concern but you know what your doing.just don't want you to build that whole truck and engine and wish you had bought a bigger motor for it. But I do no most of the time rock crawling is just that crawling slowly over rough terrain and rocks so maybe it will be ok. It's truly amazing watching you rebuilding the inner parts of the motor.never seen it done so up close like that. It's remarkable everything you know about so many different things and what you don't know you research it until your confident enough to gone it a go. The whole house build now the garagemahal and apartment build now the rock crawler truck. Really impressed with your abilities and knowledge of so many different things. Most of us out here in the world are afraid to change the air filter in our vehicles thinking were going to break something and screw it up and cost us hundreds of $$$. That's me LOL and believe me I am excellent and breaking things and costing me or someone else money. So I hire the pros to do most everything. Now I am pretty proud I have the oil service down really good on my land rover.i sure ain't paying anyone to do that.its like $300. So bought the vacuum pump and full synthetic oil and filter and do it myself. Was really nervous the forst couple times but it pretty simple just have to make sure I use the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing cover to the right spec and done. But I'm no Trent that's for sure. Love your channel buddy keep up the great work and looking forward to next Sunday and Trent & Allie today and Fridays. Yall are awesome 👌 Thanks

Trent put the motor on a engine stand and use an ignition switch while it’s still on the stand and out of the engine compartment. Buena surety!

Plenty of comments here about engine building. Now that the "bottom end" is assembled, I want to offer a little post assembly review. I have built hundreds engines, both for racing and customers cars. I would have checked the main and rod bearing clearances either using micrometers (and doing the math) or using "plastic gauge". Also, the engine break in process is mainly to seat the rings in the bores, not the bearings as you stated. As far as the "tangs" not being there, those are mainly for keeping the bearing in position during assembly. The tangs are not designed to hold the bearing in place when the engine is running. For example, if you "spin a bearing", that is exactly what happens, there is far too much friction and the bearing spins and those tangs do nothing to prevent that. Following the correct engine break in process is critical, I strongly encourage you to spend plenty of time learning and following the process for this type/size of engine.

trent i have rebuilt mostly chevrolet engines and I NEVER EVER try to dry start one without sticking a drill on the oil pump shaft and spinning it until oil runs freely through the entire block..just my 2cents. enjoy the build and when the day it first lights up there is a feeling of euphoria like none other. 🙂

That garage is sure looking warmer 😉 Loving the Tacoma rebuild videos and can't wait to see the finished truck off roading!

Trent, patience is absolutely necessary in machine work and most other things. The fact that you understand why it's important to follow each process carefully bodes well for your success! Great video for anyone attempting an engine rebuild! Thanks!

Trent you are always worrying when yo do things for the first time!! Trust yourself and just go for it!

This takes me back to rebuilding VW engines about 50 years ago. Slightly smaller (and lighter) but essentially the same. It was a fun hobby, but that was when everybody started rebuilding them for way more power than they could handle. I went the other way, and built them for reliability, like lowering the compression ratio to 7:1 so they could run on regular gas. Here a few suggestions, which you may have done and just not showed: 1) You can check the main and rod bearing clearance with plastigage by sticking a piece in the race and then torque the cap. You disassemble them and measure how squashed the plastigage is. 2) You can check the ring gap by installing the rings in a cylinder, and use a piston to push it in evenly. Then use a feeler gauge to check the gap against the spec. File ring ends if necessary. 3: Check all rods and pistons weights to see if they match. They have locations you can file to adjust their weight. Probably already done with your fancy rods. 4) Clean, clean, clean. Run your own clean solvent through every passage in the block, then blow them out with compressed air. 5) Did any of the bolts need threadlock? Not your stretch bolts, but any others?

Brandon and Trent with matching black jeans and Mountain Made Van t-shirts! 💯 #Twinning 😅😅😅

Trent please use break in oil when you build a motor for the first 250 miles then do a regular oil change of your choice.

Don't know much about cars or engines, but I really enjoy your channel

Great video, Trent, and great progress !👍🏻

Really enjoy your content, best to y'all and thanks for sharing.

I really enjoyed watching the engine being reassembled as you expressed the importance of every move and you showed us how. It’s especially great because everything is so clean and easy to see everything going together. I just know the engine is going to work very well. Great experience watching the reassembly.

Great episode, Trent. Looks like you're starting to find your groove here. Really fantastic camera work and editing as well!

You passed 4-way!! Awesome!

Good work Trent. you make every step interesting.

Awesome Trent, motors looking good, Yep we was here watching we enjoyed it a lot catch on the next one

It’s fun to watch and intriguing at how dive into the engine rebuild. Can’t wait to hear it purr. One more thing on your Trent and Allie segment. Looks like you passed your four way, because the wall around your electrical panel was insulated 😊

So glad to see Trent wearing gloves more often these days. Our hands are so very useful they are precious to us but often get neglected and/or abused. I know bc I fell and broke my wrist and lost the use of my thumb in the process. It took many weeks after the surgery to rehabilitate and to gain the full use of my hand again. I am now very cognizant of their value even though the one formerly injured is not as useful as it used to be, it’s close. Im grateful. 😊

Thanks Trent, that was absorbing, this was the most enjoyable video I have watched. Best wishes from Mike. ❤

Such an awesome video! Thanks for sharing and rattling old memories around. Have a blessed week!

Congratulation's Trent and Allie Looks like you passed inspections. Love the Rebuild, Can hardly wait to hear this run. Shop is looking good.

You are doing Great!!

Great tips bro, thanks for sharing ☕️☕️☕️👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👍👍👍🏡🏠🛻❤

Nice work, guys! Looks comfy-cozy in the garage ...

The machinists I worked around always kept rags or old washclothes on the benches so things didn't roll off and kept things in one handy place.

You can get oil through everything in the motor if you can spin the oil pump after assembly, on a Chevy motor I would pull the distributor and on the end of a drill mount a shaft with a flat end and spin the oil pump.

I usually check the bearing clearance with plastiguage on a clean, unoiled crank throw

All the insulation, that's great. Looks like the inspection went well.

Truck coming along great can't wait to see it all done

For first start oil, you'll probably want to use a break-in oil. You can get as complicated as you want, but I followed a 100 mile change and a 250 mile on break-in oil, then with regular, non-synthetic, a 500 mile, 1000 mile and then a regular OCI with what ever oil you want to run. The idea is to flush out the fine metal shavings as often as possible.

Save your torque wrenches by using a johnson bar when doing the 90 degree extra rotation after you set the torque spec.

Great job. Excited to see some insulation. Congrats on passing your 4 way.

Good Video. I never was a "car guy" to this extent, but you make this engine build very interesting. I love the way you explain what you are doing and the fear that goes with it. Allie is doing a great job with the camera. Good luck and I'll be watching...Howard

Rockwool! Good call Trent. I love engine rebuilds.

Insulation!! 👍👍 Nice video, extra information appreciated!

Thanks for a gr8 Sunday mor. Trent looking good remines me of growing up working for the farm next door he was Willys jeep guy lots of hours in his shop

Love watching you work on that motor building homes and working on vehicles doing a great job there Trent keep up the good work God bless you see you and Allie in your next video love what y'all are doing 😊😊❤

I'm really enjoying the explanations of how some of these parts work. Interesting stuff.

You are correct on NOT using synthetic oil on a new engine. BUT you should go one step farther and use Engine Break-in oil.

Insulation looks great! You must have passed your inspection 😊. That must be a relief. Love you all 💕

Thanks Trent!

Hey, first congratulations on four way. Your over using your torque wrench, when doing your 90 deg passed torque use a long breaker bar or ratchet wrench. Your calibration on the torque wrench get affected by using it a regular wrench.

I helped a buddy rebuild an engine once and I learned a lot. Everything you are doing is all coming back to me. Thank you for the video

Boy you explained that very clearly 😊

Lots of people watching both your channels! ❤️

I like the way you explain things as you go. Great video! Thx....Always good to see Brandon and hear Allie in the background. Keep it up!.

💡Trent on first start ups you need to use a (break in oil) that has zinc/phosphorus to promote the break in processes as the engine heats up and parts expand. Basicly it wears/polishes the rings, bearings and lifter bodies down from their full expantion temp size to prevent the engine fron siezing.😁👍

Love the build Trent.

Ok, I may have missed you doing these steps?? Did you use plastiguage to check the bearing clearances on the crank and con rods? Also the ring end gap clearance in the bores, you can also pinch Alies scales from in the house and weigh the pistons with pins and the rods. Then mix and match so the combined weights are close together. If you want to get hectic. Weigh each piston find the lightest and make the others match, same with your conrods.. maybe on the next rebuild😱😱😱 insulation looks cosey and warm🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🇦🇺

Looks good man. Thanks for sharing. Thanks for letting us be a small part. God Bless..

Great to see things been put back together, and congrats on passing the 4-way 😜

I am excited to see the rebuild,Trent.I didn't notice you passed 4 way, excited to see the video when it comes out, but now excited to see this video and learn. Congratulations on 4 way. Hi Alley and Brandon! ❤

Your making it look like fun😊

good job on the four way and the motor

Great to watch you build the engine, even the pro’s worry about the process and the repercussions of missing something simple, your doing fine either way the outcome will be exciting with any engine build 😂👍🏻🔥

nice the insulation is in and garage is set back up, evidently you passed 4way or at least chunks of it! congrats

Ready for the video of insulation! I know you are so much warmer in that garage.

Nice video. Enjoyed the involvement of Brandon. The interaction made viewing more informative and enjoyable.

Good Morning Trent and Allie. You have more than 2 channels on YT. There is a commercial for The Farmers Dog that you made as a sponsor.

Great job!