Glad it helped, thank you for watching!

Glad to help! Thank you for watching. Let me know if you’d like to see anything else covered.

Spot on.

I would even go as far as to say that you don't even need that mandrel step in there. You've worked the brass with your bushing already, no need to rework the brass with the mandrel. Let your bullet be your mandrel. Some folks say this technique actually leads to better neck tension, due to the brass spring back. I tried it this way and saw zero difference

Pretty much what I'm doing. Simple is best, less steps to introduce variation and the added benefit of taking me less time.

@@redrock425 simple is best! I tried simplifying it even more and doing without the mandrel. Big mistake! Maybe it's just in my head??? But the expander mandrel shrunk my groups significantly

Same experience for me.

Some factory ammo out there is decent, but even the best is no where near as good as a load that is tailored to specific rifle. But you are correct, no matter what you do, you will never make a poor rifle great with reloads, maybe better, but not great. As for bedding, the chassis rifles I build, with no bedding, shoot as well or better than a properly bedded rifle in a lot of cases. Were talking consistent 5-shot groups under .25" like the five match rifles I just built. This is not to say bedding doesn't have its place, but we can't make a blanket statement anymore that bedding is 100% necessary. I take several factors into account before offering bedding to a customer - I usually*** only bed carbon fiber / wood stocks, I take into account how the action mates to the stock (this is fairly easy to see and feel when torquing them down), and what kind of action we are using. Often times the factory actions I re-barrel, including the Remingtons and Tikka's, leave a lot to be desired with how true and straight the OD of the action is. This becomes apparent when you bolt an old 700 action into a nice, CNC machined chassis inlet.... In some cases you can see and feel the tension put on the action as the action bolts tighten up and attempt to straighten out the curvature in the action. This is no good and requires some work to rectify. You are spot on with a good barrel. A barrel is also what I consider the "make or break" component of a rifle build. Fortunately we have some VERY good barrel makers out there these days, but every once in a while we have an issue with one, this is very rare. Thanks for watching sir!!! Great points.

Thanks for watching, much appreciated! More good stuff to come. -TPM

100% spot on. Buy Lapua when you can. Forget the rest of that unnecessary stuff and exactly like you said, maybe look into neck turning if your getting into bench rest and need to wring out every little bit of accuracy.

I'll check them out. Area 419 just came out with a sizing die as well, I want to get ahold of one to test.

HAHA, I've seen that as well! It all comes down to the neck....

I have one of those....😢😂...it's far more forgiving on the runout readings than the 21st century equivalent.....🙇

Any time. Thanks for watching!

Much appreciated!

All great points. There is a lot to be learned from the bench rest guys. My buddies who shoot BR are very secretive about their reloading practices. The accuracy they obtain, like you said, is absolutely mind blowing. Are you seating bullets on an arbor press? You mentioned Bryan Litz - I first read applied Ballistics several years ago when it first came out and was amazed. I just recently re-read it to refresh myself. That book is a bible for precision reloaders.

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc - I need to re-read Bryan's book "Applied Ballistics" again. I like to do long range shooting for fun. For the benchrest loads I do use an arbor press. Along with a L.E. Wilson in-line seating die. I don't think there's anything special about the seating die. Maybe the combination of good brass, turning the necks so they're the same thickness all the way around, and doing the in-line seating allows you you end up with very little runout. Like less than 0.001". Might be more like less than 0.0005". I need to check that out for grins. I think where the benchrest shooters really get their small groups from is the equipment. The actions are glued into the stock. The stock forend is very flat and 3" wide. The stock's toe has to have a slight angle to meet the rules but the bottom of the toe is just a few inches below the bore. The front bag and rear bag are shaped to match up with the stock and have a somewhat slick surface to allow the rifle to move consistently. And, of course, a really lite trigger - like 1 ounce. I'm still new at this benchrest game but the few people in my area that do it have been totally open about what to do. I bought a used rifle off a guy and following the steps in preparing the brass and fire forming I was able to use a load development approach by a famous benchrest shooter and came up with a load that has done well. I haven't competed with it yet due to winter weather but this coming summer I'll give it a go. I'm pretty sure I won't embarrass myself but we'll see. It sounds like aside from getting the equipment and load worked out then it comes down to being able to read the wind flags and making slight adjustments so that the bullets go near each other. This is the area I need to learn more. I can explain the steps the bench rest shooters use to reload brass. After firing the cartridges we do these steps: 1. Wipe off the outside of the neck. I'm using extra fine steel wool. Some guys use a paper towel, some use a crokus cloth. 1b. Some people run a nylon/polymer brush on the inside of the neck. I haven't been doing that so far. 2. Apply die wax on the outside of the case. I'm using Redding Imperial Die Wax. The guy that got me into this uses Ford Wheel Bearing grease. 3. Resize the case with a full length bushing die. 4. Wipe off the die wax. 5. Clean primer pocket. Currently I'm using one of those Lee primer pocket cleaner things. It's a small shaft with a small blade for like $2.95. I may go to a Primer Pocket uniformer tool at some point. 6. Prime the brass 7. Drop the powder charge out of something like a Harrell's powder measure. 8. Seat the bullet with an arbor press and inline seating die. That's it.

Man, absolutely awesome information. Thank you very much for all of that. I’m pretty unfamiliar with the bench rest world so a lot of that is new information to me. Much appreciated. These are all things I’d like to experiment with and see if I can get even better accuracy with a small amount of additional effort. Question for you… you mentioned you lube your necks. I’ve experimented with this before and seen bullet setback from a mag fed rifle so I don’t lube inside the neck any more and generally run .002” neck tension. Are you running really light neck tension with the bullet seated long, so it seats into the lands and is pressed back into the case upon chambering? I’ve heard of this a few times. Thanks again. Truly appreciate the information and engagement on the channel. -TPM

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc - If I mentioned lubing necks I didn't mean to do that. What I do these days is count on the carbon build up on the inside of the case neck. This acts as a lubricant when seating the bullet. I've been using neck bushings that are 0.002" to 0.003" smaller than the final cartridge neck diameter with a seated bullet. We're all still learning how to make our weapon system better. It sure sounds like you have a lot of experiences and I'm always interested in sharing.

Thanks for sharing, I'm always open to learning new techniques and refining my process. This game is and endless pursuit of perfection.

Glad it was helpful!

I 100% agree with you on all points. Very well explained. There is no debate that neck turning has a positive impact on velocity consistency and accuracy. Like you alluded to, the decision of whether or not to take to time to go through this process depends on what the shooter's expectations are, what they using the rifle for, and what they hope to accomplish. Awesome comment. Thank you. -Shawn

My pleasure!

Thanks, will do!

You nailed it. Probably the two most important things in reloading - quality components and consistency. Consistent and accurate powder charges, seating depth, and neck tension is where I have found the most benefit. Thanks for watching! -TPM

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc Agreed! Let's keep those groups small, my friend. Thanks again for the informative video!

You're welcome!

Oh ya! Thats a good one. I know a few bench rest shooters and none of them do that. Most of them do measure the bearing surface on their bullets and they separate them into different groups. In that game, everything matters. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching! -Shawn

A load density of 80-90% is where you want to be. I typically aim for 90% LD. I've found no benefit to getting near 100% or compressed, and only problems with premature pressure signs. Benchrest guys will load to 100% commonly, but they are running very fine tuned loads in range conditions. To answer your question, one way you can change LD is changing powders. Each powder has a unique density / grain value.

Thanks 4 your help

No problem!

You're welcome! Thanks for watching!

Glad to help, feel free to shoot me an email with any questions you have. Happy to help any way I can.

Thank you!

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc Its sometimes hard to weed thru the useful steps and not so useful steps. I am right now teaching a friend of mine the basics of reloading. I am always trying to learn more from people who shoot precision rifles and loads so I can improve my own loads. Thanks for your video

Anything else you'd like to see, reloading wise?

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc I would like to see detailed load development and testing

You got it.

Awesome cartridge choice. I run the 30 Nosler and found it to be one of the easiest magnum cartridges to load for. It has almost the same performance as my 300 Norma Mag. I've thought about doing a 28 Nosler for hunting, especially with the excellent high BC bullets that are available today. Do you have brass for the 28 Nosler?

@Triggered Precision Machine LLC I have 150 Nosler brass from factory loads breaking in the rifle. I'm going give that a shot as I'm only hunting, we will see how that goes.

I'm also a 24 year machinest and under stand the importance of precision.

Awesome, have fun!

So you can relate - once you're used to doing things with that level of precision, especially in the defense / aerospace machining sector, it's hard to do anything to a lesser quality. It pays off in rifle building and reloading, that's for sure! 😁

Sounds about right. If I remember correctly, your'e shooting a moderately warm load also, correct? My dad just got up and running with a precision arbor press setup with a digital load cell. When he seats the bullets, a computer gives you a live view of the amount of pressure it takes to seat the bullets. Long story short, he has found some interesting information. Some of it we already know and he confirmed with numerical evidence, and some of it we had never thought of. When he's done using it for his testing, he's going to send it up here for me to mess with. I bring that up because the sizing processes and intervals played a huge role in consistent neck tension, as we all know, and he has the data to show the direct correlation between neck tension consistency and accuracy. Next he's going to play with some moly dust in the necks, neck reaming, and turning. Very, very interesting stuff. I'll be sure to share the results are. This stuff along with all the harmonic tuner stuff is really next level stuff only considered by bench rest shooters, even though tuners are starting to become more popular amongst other crowds. Fun stuff, its great to see constant innovation and evolution in this old sport. -Shawn

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc That seating data will be great to read when available :) and yes to moderate loads ! Myself being a new shooter have now switched to the Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die vs. the Hornady die bushings for two reasons. First the die bushings require the neck to be moved inwards then outwards using the expander ball working the brass and extra step. Second the Lee die uses a mandrel & collet system which moves the brass only in one direction eliminating the potential of overworking the brass and lots of shooters swear on the use of mandrels. I'm assisting two other shooters who are just getting into reloading their 223s but don't advise and what to do more that I advice them on what not to do and capitalize on my mistakes lol

Spot on!

The only time I lube the inside of the neck is when I'm running an expander mandrel in the case necks as a part of my re-sizing process. I completely remove it prior to charging with powder and seating a bullet though. Other than that, I keep lube out of the inside of the necks for a couple of important reasons - First, the wax / liquid type of lubes will accumulate powder on the inside of the neck when you dump it in. Second, you are inserting another variable into the equation in my opinion, can you be confident is applied evenly, to every case, every time? ***Some people do lube the inside of the necks with dry graphite or mica powder and I've heard of people using sizing die wax too. I've never seen any evidence showing it was beneficial and I'd say the vast majority of shooters are not lubing necks. Also, the lube will reduce the effect the neck tension has on your bullet. I would imagine if you were shooting a light, heavy recoiling hunting rifle, you may experience some bullet setback as well. That's just speculation, although I have had bullet setback occur on 300 win rounds I had in a 7lb hunting rifle.... and those necks weren't lubed, but the neck tension was on the minimum side. People go gray over chasing down accuracy, and sometimes, the most simple way is where to look. Some rifles have some odd quirks as far as what they like to eat, ammo wise. If you are running out of options and have the time to tinker, it might be something for you to experiment with, just make sure what your doing is consistent and repeatable. Hope that helps on that. As far as SD's and statistical measurements..... I always record my chronograph readings for each round along with my high, low, and average velocity, I never mess with SD. 99% of the time, and I just had this happen over the weekend, I will have one or two rounds that are unexplainably fast or slow (+/- 20 FPS) compared to the majority. That tells me something I did on that cartridge was different. Human error, if you will. After I shoot, I look at all the data and its pretty easy to see those outliers and either throw that data point out, or include it. Whether to include it or not depends on the how many rounds you have data on. If it's just 5-10 rounds in that sample and you are confident in your reloading practices enough to call that a true random outlier, I will throw it out because it has too much effect on getting an accurate average velocity. On the other hand, if your sample is larger, like 20+ rounds, I'll keep it in because it has much less effect on the average. I hated statistics in school, but here we are! 😆 If your reloading practices are correct, meticulous, and you are using good components in a good rifle, there should not be any reason for an excessive extreme spread. The spread you should see, in a perfect world, is the natural velocity spread due to the individual powder burn, ignition, etc. My extreme spreads are in the neighborhood of 10-20 ft/s generally which has served me well out to beyond a mile. I've competed in matches where we were forced to use factory ammunition, so Federal Gold Medal Match (.308 Win) it was. When my partner and I were gathering the data on the ammo in our rifles, we discovered the particular lot of FGMM we had was showing an extreme spread of over 60 FPS, yet it still shot tiny groups at 100 yards and managed to secure third place at the match with no misses I could attribute to the ammo. Kind of a long winded response, but that was an awesome question on a very interesting topic. Thank you very much!!! I appreciate the questions and engagement. Cheers! -TPM

100% agreed.

Yessir, it does make the work easier if you need to spin your brass. I got it from: kmshooting.com/product/power-adapter-without-shell-holder/

Unless you use separate body die and neck die. That was how I loaded for a long time simply because that’s how the Redding Competition die sets come - a micrometer neck sizing die, body die, and micrometer searing die. I should have clarified what I meant by skipping a step. Thanks for bringing that up. 👍🏼👍🏼

Absolutely. Everyone puts their unique twist on their reloading process and as long as you are aware of the effect your individual operations have on the outcome, you can learn a lot on the way. Like you said, if you stay consistent you should have a natural progression towards the mean and shrink that bell curve. Starting with good components will put you ahead of the game from the start. And honestly, the biggest thing for me has been the 2-way sharing of information about techniques and experimenting with one thing at a time and finding what works for me. Too many people get stuck in the mindset of "I do it because it's what I've always done." I think its important to keep that goal of constant improvement in the back of your mind and be open to new stuff. If it works, then that is awesome. If it doesn't, then rule whatever that is out and log that in the memory bank. It's a never ending rabbit hole for me. Just in the last few weeks I've been contacted by several viewers with suggestions of things to try out with reloads. Constantly learning and improving is the way. -TPM

@@triggeredprecisionmachinellc thank you for your thoughts and video

You are welcome!

ABSOLUTELY! Both very solid dead ends. Awesome addition. I forgot about those because I haven't done them in so long.

Yessir, excellent topic! I’ll work on getting something out in the next few days.

@Triggered Precision Machine LLC thank you looking forward to reviewing it

Thanks for the idea for the topic, Fred. Released the video this morning and people seem to appreciate the info. Anything else you want to see covered? -Shawn