LOL! Same with me!!! My arrows look like they fly like drunk!

Good point. Can make a difference. I use a bit af Scotch tape to tape down the plastic vanes. Not perfect but keeps the weight very similar and saves a lot of work stripping the vanes without damaging the carbon shafts I use.

The Amazing Goldfish Used different colored nocks for each weight.

Whip the nocking point, makes it easier.

Totally does, English longbow are much more susceptible to arrows of wrong spine going off, as they don't have a cut out, the arrow have to bend more to travel round the bow. I shoot English long how and American flatbow, flatbows with cut out arrow shelves are much more forgiving to wrongly matched spines

Altering the brace height effects the performance of the bow, I'd go with manufacturers recommended brace height and tune your arrows. What youre suggesting is effectively tuning your bow to the arrows, some bows (English longbows) have a very short tolerance for brace height adjustment, bows are much more expensive to replace than arrows, tune arrows to bows, not bows to arrows.

Makes me wonder then, is it the broad head or the arrow? I would have to say the broad head. Bare shaft is big, it is not hard and just gives you better flight, why not do that?

Archery 101 I always do

Try it at longer distances the differences will become more apparent. My experience is spine weight does make a difference, although certain bows (the wider the more the arrow has to bend passed the bow) are more susceptible. Recurves and flatbows with cut outs mean the arrow needs much less bend and so are much more forgiving of wrongly matched spines

That is called FOC. I for one do not understand it, but it works and works really well.

hi love archery but that test over that short distance does not prove a thing because of the archers paradox is to great at that distance i would also like to add his jumper sometimes interfered with the string

There is no degree to the Archers Paradox, a bow either has it or it does not. As for distance, the vast majority of Traditional archers shoot 20 yards and under.

​@@TradArchery101 okay i shoot a recurve olympic style bow up to 100 yards and the spine of the arrow makes a hell of the difference

@@electoplater yes. but at 100 yards, every mistake and mismatch is amplified. what he's saying is that feathers will hide a poor spine selection. Having the correct spine is still important - especially at the extreme level (like olympic). not to mention that many olympic archers use fletchings such as spin-wings which promote higher degree of spin while being short so that they are not as affected by cross wind. Traditional fletchings are great for correction since they have more surface area, however over a great distance, they will also drift more than something like spin-wings.

thank God not much around for left handers

Learned a lot, debunked some old wives tales. Some I always doubted! So very very true feathers are your friend and can overcome some other variables. GREAT VIDEO! THANKS MUCH.

Yes, Getting that properly tuned arrow, will increase speed, distance, energy etc, due to losing less energy in correcting the flight. There is a line, if you are a target archer, then you want that perfect flight. Then again, if you are new and learning, then not so much, same for the recreational archer. They can shoot just as well with one that is "close" as opposed to being "perfect".

I whole hardheartedly agree. Operator head spacing and time.

Sure it does

This is how I look at it. The correct spined arrow will tolerate more varibles in your shot cycle, while the wrong spine will not. I use too shoot 400 spined arrows out of my bows, that is what the charts, the pro shop told me to do. I shot just fine. Then as I progressed, I could start to see things in the arrows flight, that I did not see before. So one day, I bareshafted them and found them to be too stiff. What I found, was that for me, 600's work the best. My point is, 400's were just fine for me, for a while. The as I got better, they no longer were. This tells me that people (read newer archers) need to stop worrying about having that perfect arrow and work on getting that perfect form first.

Btw, I am a fellow lefty

talk is cheap u gutless piece of shit. your mouth is bigger than your brain. to attack some one on another persons channel is ignorance of the worst order. your a stupid ignorant bully. i've seen you attack many people now but real men don't call a prick a wee wee big fella. harharhar. how petty and jealous can you be. little man with the big ego. real men ride harlies. how did you get one. you should clean up your back yard it looks like a scrap yard. have a bad day in every way. stay off my channel goofy. if you don't have any thing positive to say hit the road. move along. your not welcome here. i saw a couple of your shows but there just stuff you have copied usually and your so inarticulate that you can't teach. when i see a show like this i say thanks to the guy for the good work, but your so ignorant ho bo or is that beauregard that any wisdom is wasted on you. @Combat Archery

Not always, that is a myth. A clean release really helps (not that I have one).Feathers also correct a ton. So many variables go into it that there really are few absolute answers.

Exactly, the stiff spined arrows still shot right. Both myths are fact not fiction.

Pattyboybx I believe I said that

I question that. What is the average distance most trad hunters shoot at? 15 and under. It will not make that much of a difference. I have shot in the pouring rain with no problem in a shoot and in hunting.

​@@TradArchery101 Do you doubt that wet fletchings make them ineffective? Or just doubt that ineffective fletchings would make a significant impact? Out west in the open country where I live shots are very often 30+ yards, so if there is an impact on flight it would really hamper your ability to shoot that elk, for instance. I could have sworn I saw a slow motion video once of an arrow with wet fletchings, but after a long search I couldn't find it. So I guess I don't have proof. You could make proof to the contrary though, I don't mind being proven wrong, and it could make a cool video for you to shoot arrows of differing spines with wet fletchings at different ranges and show the results.

Christopher Rowley 30 yards? Using a compound bow are you? Check out this video of us shooting a 3D course in the pouring rain. With no affect on our arrows. Have done it many times. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pKuheNyhyeC2lIU.html

I would agree.

The rig will give you a "false" result. The Tradlab found that when comparing feather sizes, that they got one result for the rig and a very different result with done by a person. Unless you can have a shot cycle as consistent as a rig, then, yes it would apply. But we are nothing more than a walking variable machine. Every shot we take, has some degree of variance. You also missed my point. I can on average, at twenty yards, shot a group that is 6". The arrows with the weaker / heavier weight and spine still falls into that 6" group average. So there is no difference. Now if you can shoot a 2 or even 3" group consistently at 20 yards, then yes, it might be true. If you shoot a group that is larger than 6" at twenty yards, then there is no difference.

According to the engineers at Gold Tip and Easton that I spoke to, at that range it would not.

Archery 101 cool thank you.

The cause can many different things. The first is your bow and arrows. Is the bow cut to center? At first glance a 340 spine is waaay to stiff. Personally I run 500 or 600’s from that poundage bow. With that said, plucking can give you a false reading, like what you are seeing. The other, and this is a big one, is the material you are shooting into. For the best readings, new material is preferred. Have a Buddy stance behind you and watch your arrow flight and you release hand and work from there.

@@TradArchery101 I understand what your saying, and agree that these things can affect the outcome. I took your videos to heart and I've changed from hay bales to a 4x4 Bulldog target and I shoot multiple times to try to eliminate those bad shots. I was shooting from 17yds. I knew I would have to really weaken the 340 spine because these are used as my high FOC hunting arrows but I thought the 400's would be good for the length and weight of bow? The 340's give me 300gr up front and 620gr total weight. I also shoot a 500 Victory and I tested it with a 125gr and it also had the same effect, far right hit and as I increased it to 200gr it came back to center. I have the 600 Victory arrows that I'm going to be testing to see what the difference is. I normally use these for my lighter bows. The Bear riser is cut to center. One other thing is I removed the strike plate and replaced it with some tape quit a while ago to move the arrow body further right on the shelf. I use this as another adjustment like a plunger. I'm going to do a lot more testing to make sure I get good shots. I will also get someone to video the flight and my release as suggested. I normally shoot a consistent 4-6" group at 20 yds. I consider myself a experienced shooter but this is definitely playing with my head but I know I'll figure it out with help from people like yourself. Thank You for taking time to help me sort this out.

That variance, means that in any group the 125 can and will be closer than the 200. How is that confirmed? Shooting without sights has an inherent level of variance to it. That level is equal to or greater than the variance between weights with feathers.

I'm grateful to you for many things so don't get upset with me. We're traveling the same path. I just bet that, say in a shooting machine, you'd still see the impact difference and certainly the flight difference, minor as it may be. Clay Hayes posted a video just now on arrow spine which is a good watch.

But how much? When you shoot at 20 yards at a target, what is your average score? That will determine the size of your shot group. Most people have a grouping size of 8 to 12" at 20 yards, yes, the best have much smaller, I understand that, but we are talking about the regular Joe. I score an an average of 7.2 on the WA Target and a 4.3 on the NFAA. That means my average grouping is 6" at twenty yards. Notice that all those arrows, even with different weights, spine, etc, all landed in that 6" area. In the end, I'm not consistent enough for it to make a difference to me and I'm willing to bet the same applies to the vast majority of archers out there. I never said there is a flight difference. What I said or meant to convey is that just because you are shooting to the left or right, it does not mean your arrows are off. It could just as easily be you and most likely is.

OK, I can certainly go along with that. In essence that's what I was trying to say. So the observed reality is largely fiction because of our skill level shooting barebow...but the science/math is still fact. How's that? Enjoy the arrival of spring. Looking forward to seeing your adventures.

@@dmouse522 What science / math says that it will? Not being combative, but if there is something I missed, then I would like to know. I can shoot arrows of various spines from my bows (and do) and still get the same scores, if the myth was so true, that would not happen.

The 200 grain was within the same distance of the tape as the others. When shooting without sights and using split vision or instinctive there is an inherent degree of variance to your groups and that is exactly what the groupings showed. That all the areas consistently landed within that distance.

I cannot say yes or no to that. Look at it this way, how much affect would a little bit less of feather have in an arrow that is in flight under a second?

I spoke to several engineers at Gold Tip and Easton and they said something that really blew me away. They said most trad bows don't shoot far enough or fast enough for it to make enough of a difference.

@@TradArchery101 That might explain why their spine charts suck so bad for traditional bows. What I have found is that if your arrow is well tuned to your bow, the difference between three fletch and four is that you use one more feather per arrow with four fletch. On the other hand, feathers create drag, which helps stabilize even out of tune arrows, more feather = more drag = quicker stabilization. Wooden arrows are not by their very nature as consistent as aluminum or carbon, so many guys use 5 1/2" high back feathers to quickly iron out those inconsistencies. Being mostly human, archers add to that inconsistency, so most of us need feathers for that as well. World class archers are models of consistency, which has a great deal to do with their consistent high scores.

@@30cpe I use four feathers for one reason only: They show up better on camera.

@@TradArchery101 That makes sense.

HawkEye Great question. It all depends on what you want. I use to bare shaft from 8 yards (that is how wide my basement was). Once I got familiar with it. It went to 20. The closer is great because you are getting great flight much earlier. The longer distance can have some wobble and such, but it will still hit where you want. So in the end, what is more important to you is the question.

Try 35 yards, work up 5 at a time after that, see what you like best.

I cannot agree on a shooting machine, why? Because an archer is the biggest variable there is! On each shot we make, we do something different. A shooting machine is not a reasonable or accurate simulation of an archer, so why use one? As for the paradox, the flexing of the arrow is NOT the Archer's Paradox, sorry. Here is the correct definition of it: "The archer's paradox is the phenomenon of an arrow traveling in the direction it is pointed at full draw, when it seems that the arrow would have to pass through the starting position it was in before being drawn, where it was pointed to the side of the target. The bending of the arrow when released is the explanation for why the paradox occurs and should not be confused with the paradox itself. Flexing of the arrow when shot from a modern 'centre shot' bow is still present and is caused by a variety of factors, mainly the way the string is deflected from the fingers as the arrow is released." That is why a bow cut past center, does NOT have Archer's Paradox, neither does a compound or crossbow. Having OCD myself, I'm a stickler for what is and is not Archer's Paradox. You like some others are speaking and thinking in absolutes. I do not. I cannot, have not and most likely will not see any discernible difference, why? Because i have a 6" shot group at 20 yards and the variance between a stiffer and weaker arrow is not enough to show at that range. Now, will it show at 50 yards or more? Maybe, but I, and most archers do not shoot that distance.

@@TradArchery101 I used too shoot regularly between 50-120ish yards, but I mention the contraption to take the human variable out of the equation. the reason is once you have the most reliably repeatable bow and arrow combination then a person can work on themselves and their form being repeatable KNOWING what to expect of their equipment. the same thing goes for long range rifle shooting, once you have matched your ammunition loads, barrel harmonics, etc. then you can work on form, breathing, trigger pressure, gauging wind, coriolis effect. but if you change variables with the rifle and ammo itself or had something happening with the barrel seating then the tool that you are using is unreliable. so variances from one shot to the next the archer will try to compensate for the last shot, which may have not been the equipment, but rather their grip pressure, string release, a minor tremble in their hand they didnt notice. back to the long range rifle shooting, once I can remove all variables then I can see things like "I was 10 inches left, what did *I* do to cause it?" and not have to guess "was it me or the equipment?" in archery you have several things that even with centershot bows will create the archers paradox. now even as your video on AP said (I liked your explanation of it there btw), newtons law comes into play, if the arrow is not perfectly true, if the bow is not perfectly center shot aligned, if the nock point of the string is not perfectly parallel it will cause the oscillation to happen. everything has to be perfectly trued up to stop this from happening. a similar thing happens in rifle shooting, where the barrel actually flip flops (flexes/oscillates) around a centerline, thats when you adjust bullet weight, powder load and burn speed so when it leaves it does so in a repeatable way that has the least amount of course alteration when leaving the barrel. and a simple leaning into it to hard or on synthetic stocks to tight of a grip on the fore stock can effect the harmonics. I had that very issue on one of my rifles, but because I was shooting it myself, I couldnt get the sight to hold a zero in and make the same shot twice. I would be 18 inches left, I would adjust and then shoot 35 to the left or 25 to the right. it was because one of the anchor/brace points for the barrel had broke and the barrel was shifting around and causing the harmonics to be off. until it is fixed it will never be reliable. if I had it in a rifle brace I could have found this issue MUCH sooner, rather than me trying to compensate for it. its not that I dont like what you've done, it does show a reasonable pattern, just saying it would be nice to see a more exacting degree. yes partially is alignment, but also the lighter the tip the less it will do this, the arrow spine stiffness is a way to artificially correct that. now I am not asking you to do such a lengthy setup, a true scientific approach would take hundreds of shots with each spine weight and tip weight and making sure all their spine stong/weak sides match etc. lots of math and recordings. just saying I would LIKE to see it (somewhere)

@@brettleisy356 I’m well versed in firearms, having used and still use them for the past 35 plus years at work and in the service. In all courses, the first thing you are taught is form. In basic, in the service (I was Airborne Infantry), we did the Dime Washer exercise for a full week before we fired a single round. In Archery, every instructor will tell you work form first, then tune. Not vice versa. You cannot have a good tune unless you have proper form. They teach using the Acronym of RAT, Repeatable Shot Cycle, Aim and finally Tune. I still question it. Let me ask you, how big was your shot groups at 50 yards or 100 plus? Wide weren’t they? Check out the Lancaster classic, the best shooters and they are trying to hit a target the size of a dime (17mm) at only 18 meters, and yet they do not hit it all the time, heck not even most of the time and they have the best equipment and form out there and they are not even consistent enough. That is why a machine is not indicative. If the best out there cannot group tight enough for it to matter, how will it for you? Nope, to me, it is just something for you to worry about, that you don’t need to. Now, I’m not saying tune is not important. I’m saying that if you make your arrow “stiffer/weaker” (all within reason of course), you are not going see any significant change in your shooting. Sorry, but nothing you have wrote has changed my view or opinion. Center shot bows will not have it (Archers Paradox). Arrows must oscillate, basic physics, but it is not the Archers Paradox. Too many have corrupted the mean into that, but that does not make it true. I shot plenty of arrows and when you see a consistent pattern, that is when I stop and call it. I shot all the arrows with the same weight and recorded where they hit. I then shot them one at a time with different weights and recorded it and finally I shot them mixed and recorded it and I no measurable difference that could not be accounted for by form variance. Like I said you want absolute, but there is none here. Too many variables to take into account. No one is a machine and no one can or will duplicate the results of once on a consistent basis.

@@TradArchery101 80% of my shots were within a 10 inch pattern. I practiced until I was sure of it being reasonably consistent, as I was using my bow for hunting a large portion of the time I wanted to ensure a heart shot (approx 10 inches for a grown dear's heart) I understand the imperfections of machines and manufacturing, I was only suggesting removing a variable. you can have the greatest form in the world, but if the tuning is not proper or erratic (mixed arrows and tip weight etc) you will never pull in the group size. its like when I went down to buy a new driver to add to my golf bag, I hit a few SMASHING shot straight down the middle. took it to the course and couldnt hit the fairway. went to a gold instructor and swung a few dozen times and even tho I dont have a "perfect" swing it was very repeatable and other clubs seemed fine. so he took the club in and did a quick test to see if the spine was mis aligned. not only wasnt it aligned it seemed to not have one and it would just go all over. 85 dollars later and new shaft in the club and I was hitting the fairways again. now if that problem wasnt corrected I would have been making constant adjustments trying to fix the problem and my form would actually get WORSE as I would constantly be changing my stance. swing plane, alignment of head at address, weight shifting. an archers, long range rifleman's, and a golfer's accuracy and precision have things in common. (even down to playing pool) form will limit the equipment and equipment will limit the from. we can not out of the box fix form, that is a learned thing, but we CAN make sure our equipment is set up properly. I am not saying spend 2 grand on a bow and arrow set up, this is true in many aspects of life. I dont care how good the nascar driver is, you put him in a gocart he wont be beating the average joe in a race. there is only so much skill and form can make up for. put average joe and the nascar driver in the same vehicle and the professional will humiliate the average joe, but now the ceiling of the average joe to get better and is raised. if this were not true no advancements would ever be made to archery gear cause it literally wouldnt make any difference. I would just go grab a stick, put a string on it and shoot smaller sticks with it. pro golfers would still use hickory sticks and wooden heads, etc. my rifle once fixed will be 3/4" MOA @100, so anything more than that will be an error on my part. last rifle I had that shot like that I shot 1.5" MOA which means 3/4" was my errors. but if the rifle was 6" MOA I would never be able to improve past that 6" group and would only lead to frustration. and no amount of drills would EVER fix it. I do like this video cause it explains things to a lot of people that otherwise wouldnt understand certain principles. and you at some point will be buying new arrows including the people watching this video. and a little testing can help. I know at the cabelas here I can test shafts etc, and I can even test without the fletchings and find what is the best raw shaft/tip combo, then the appropriate veins. you are very correct in that a persons form will alter things, string release torquing the string, anchor point repeat-ability, etc. but removing those from testing and physics are figured, then the archer can work on form in a more productive manner. ESPECIALLY when learning basics. I'll take this back to when I first started around 8... my parents bought a cheap archery bow and a bunch of random practice arrows out of a bin. went to lessons, learned a few things. but I saw very little improvement. I was still missing the target at times no matter how much I adjusted and changed. but I REALLY wanted to learn. my parents broke down and got me an actual set and some extra arrows that were the same that came with the bow. MAJOR difference. I was hitting the target regularly and after a couple hours of practicing I was inside of 4 rings pretty consistently. a couple of weeks later and practicing 2-3 hours a day I was starting to stack arrows to the point I was having to replace arrows more often as I was breaking them. no I never "robin hooded" an arrow, but not for the lack of trying. some of it was down to odds as I was lazy and didnt want to walk and grab three arrows every time so I would shoot 8-12 at a time. but that other bow and misc arrows, when ever I took it out to use it was all on target... but that's about all that could be said for it.

Brett Leisy 10” at 100 with a recurve? Sights? Not barebow. Your example is not the norm. That first bow did not have arrows even close to being correct. I and most recurve shooters do. The video is about if stiffer or weaker arrows will consistently fly off to one side or the other. That is what I tested. And my conclusion is that it does not. Not given the normal variance the we have. I based it on many “experts” telling people on FB and on the forums that the reason they are shooting to the left (for example) is because their arrow is too stiff or too weak. That is nonsense. And all my test confirmed that it is nonsense. Again, this is not about shooting with a 20 pound bow and 340 spines. It is about having a reasonable setup. I also disagree with drills not correcting things. Been doing drills all my life and if they didn’t help, then why did I get better because of them and why does every top coach / instructor use them on a regular basis? Why? Because they work.

It may appear that way on first impression. In all my testing, the arrows landed within a 6" area of the "X", otherwise known as the four ring on an NFAA 300 target. I even tracked where they hit, using a grid square I imposed over it. There was no consistent result by the different weights, no one type of arrow would land in the same spot on a consistent enough basis for me to say that. What it did show, is that I, and not the arrow has more of an impact on shooting left or right of the target. To say it is due to the arrow, is most likely wrong, it is you, the archer who is most likely making the arrow miss to the left or right.

@@TradArchery101 there was a clear correlation to the shots you showed in the video. The 200 grain and the 800 spine arrows were closer to center on both the fletched and bare shaft arrows. The more spined the arrows, the more right they went. It's just that the fletched went right to a much less degree than the bare shafted, but they still went right of the lower spine. So basically fletchings mute the effect, but don't remove it.

Btw, I enjoyed the video

I understand what you are saying. But what you did not see, and I did not show was all the other rounds I shot. While, the 200 Grain Point and the 800 Spine flew better. When I shot at a 300 and a 450 target, that did not bear out. I kept getting the same scores and the arrows were not consistently in one spot to confirm it. The one really comes down to how tight of a group you can shoot. Me, like I said, my group is around 6", with a group that big, there was no appreciable difference. I could shoot the 600's with a 125 grain point and maintain my scores. Now if you have a group smaller than mine, then I could see it. If you have a group larger than mine, then no way. I can see that I did not do an adequate job of describing this and for that I thank you.

I do not have the answers, just some questions and points. The first being (and I think I "might" have a way to test this) is how much difference does that 1" of feather make in correcting an arrow? The next one is, if an arrow can travel 30 plus yard in a second, and you are shooting at 20 yards, that means the feathers have less than one second to "correct" the flight, so how much influence can the feathers have in less than a second? As for drag, I do not know if it produces more, we all assume it does. But how much? Is it enough to change the flight of the arrow that much?

I think with your Scientific and technical background, this could be a good one to cover, as there is so many different vane shapes and sizes, what is the optimum based on arrow weight and bow power etc, how much of a difference do they make. I found your videos on no vanes very interesting

I could nevber matched that silky smooth voice of Paul's

Great Question and one I do not have the answer too. I only shoot feathers.

You are missing the point. Those archers with large shots groups, like 6” groups, it makes no difference. Their form varies so much that you cannot get a clear reading. You are working of the premise that they have a repeatable shot cycle. Case in point: archer does as you say and they get a “reading”. Turns out they had a pluck the whole time. Once that is fixed, the arrows will now read different and be incorrect. So was the first reading accurate? The arrows said they were. It will not matter until you start to get tight groups, until then, to many variables to say it is dokey a stiff or weak arrow.

@@TradArchery101I agree with "do not bother with the tuning" until you can shoot, but your conclusion is not true if someone looks where the arrow are landing. Maybe I argue with the "fiction" word because it is definitive while in reality it is not. Even with your consistent form you were not able to move the stiff arrows from right side to centre / centre left - feathers can cover some of the dynamic spine issues, not all. You don't need perfect arrows to shoot would be a better conclusion.

Nice!

No, not really. You want the arrow to hit where you are looking. If I did what you suggested, my arrow would never be on target and that is just another complication.

@@TradArchery101 Well, what if you picked the arrow that wobbled the least, and tried adjusting your form to get it to hit where you're looking, possibly by canting the bow to get the arrow directly under your eye?

@@DarxusC Canting does not generally affect where it hits. Unless you throw in a heavy cant. Then we come up on the quandary of "What if you are not able to cant your bow". Would it not be easier to change your anchor point to get the arrow under your eye? I would not worry about the "wobble" so much, that is why you have feathers.

It could be several things. Using three under or split can change the tiller enough to have an affect. It really depends on several factors. Your set up could be at the point where that could affect it. Also, your release does change between the two, that could also be a contributor. For me, I just make an adjustment to my aiming. It is just easier than chasing a new set up.

Thanks a million!!! I think you are absolutely right! I will accept it as a fact... Will give myself some time the form to re-adjust to the change...and after that if it is needed I will re-adjust the arrows!

Space Jockey Thanks for watching. This video is not about bareshaft tuning. It is about the myth, which I have heard over and over that your arrow will fly either to the left or the right if it is Stiff/weak in spine. Cannot tell you how many times I have seen a person shoot and have someone tell them that their arrows are too stiff or weak, all based off of where they land. This is what I tested

@@TradArchery101 "It is about the myth, which I have heard over and over that your arrow will fly either to the left or the right if it is Stiff/weak in spine." and so was my comment. Pretty sure I concurred with your observations and findings. That I offered an explanation for the "myth" is not contrary to your findings, it's additional. I reiterate- "if you don't have the 'three fletched arrows' to provide a baseline, whereby the fletchings are the ONLY variation between the 2 groups of 3 arrows, there's not much point to the exercise." The "myth" you're addressing emerged from common misunderstandings of 'bare shaft tuning'. A detail worth stressing if trying to dispel/debunk the "myth" that spine is the cause of errant arrow flight. That was the point of my comment, not to disagree but to add more information.

@@space.youtube Did not read like that to me, my apologies.

Now you know what it is like to be left handed! :)

Hello, Was out for a while and now I'm back. Looking at this aspect (again). What is that shattering glass all about?

Lars Blankenfjell I was always told that it is the same for wood and carbon

It is and is not. I use to shoot "stiffer" spines in my bows. 400's and 500's. Shot them pretty darn good. Then I was taught something and then I went to 600's. At 25 yards and under there was no difference. But what it did was give me "cleaner" flight, which bled off less energy.

@@TradArchery101 i agree i shoot 500 in my longbow shooting a 31 inch draw with 250 grains up front if i use carbons. carbons recover so much faster that you need a softer spine too get the best flight around the riser. aluminum i need too be stiffer then cedar i can go way stiffer

Not what the video is about and it still applies to center shot bows.

Does the nock end twirl in a circular motion? Is that what you mean?

You can move the Nock point up or down. Feather size and you can play with your rest/shelf and riser padding. now, the last two will only make a difference to an advanced archer who has good shot control.

I think that the contact between the arrow and the bow and the forces acting on the arrow are symmetrically reverse for the right hand bow.

Great question. My only thought is that force applied to the arrow are from a different direction.