Whenever you use the brakes. The left front on the trailer gets all the power. By the time it gets to the right rear, there's no power left. Whenever I rewire a trailer, I mount an electrical box center of trailer and centered between axles. Run 4 equal length wires to the brakes. All brakes get equal power and work better.

Hey Robert Those scotch lock connectors are junk for trailers as they are not weather proof. You really need to be heat shrink butt connectors if you want those connections to last. I wodk on traileras all the time and never use tbem for that reason. Keep up the great work.

the adventures of SGH. the most entertaining hotshot videos by far.always looking forward to your videos!!

Eric that's awesome I'm glad everything went well and you not letting anything stop you. I donated my best friend/brothers organs after his head got crushed wearing a helmet when are Yamaha Rhino upper arm failed at 60 MPH causing it to rollover crushing his head between the asphalt road and roll cage. His organs went to 7 different people saving there lives. Hardest decision I have ever made in my life but knowing that he helped 7 people it was the best decision I have ever made.

I could become a Jack of all trades just from watching your videos.. I enjoy the repairs and everything else. Always learning something new. Stay safe.

My friend,Your patients level is unreal.You never give up that’s awesome.I would have dumped that thing by now,that’s me though.Love the videos.

Your channel is like a drug to me. I have no interest in becoming a HotShot driver, but I look forward to each of your blogs.

Robert, just be thankful that you have the knowledge and skills that you can do most of the work yourself. I believe I would put a for sale sign on the trailer. Keep up the hard work. Be safe out there. 👍🙏🇱🇷

I pulled a lowboy for over 35 years let and old timer give you some advice every place you spliced that wire you need to put a junction box they are sealed and cheap the way you did it you will always have problems even time they get wet

I have re-wired two of my trailers with same wire you are using. And soldered all connections. All lighting and braking issues resolved.

Good job on keeping the maintenance up on the truck and trailer Robert. Safety first ! Stay save & healthy !

I'm glad you figured it out . Good job Robert. You and Lida be safe

I’ve wired a lot of trailers and your doing the right thing on everything except those blue squeeze connectors They aren’t worth crap and will give you more trouble when the moisture gets to the copper wire and it will deteriorate I use either heat shrink tubing with a straight connector or one a straight connector and squeeze some silicone inside of it and put the wire in and squeeze it together This keeps moisture from getting to your connections. If u have any problems with ur lights after you do this it will be a bad bulb or a pigtail connector going in the light itself

Hey Robert, your trailer is jacked up. Literally and figuratively!😂

“Goin’ down the road squeezing your thing”? Stop that, you’ll go blind.

i gotta hand it to you you do your best to be ready to go i try to carry a wheel bearing and spare parts to keep me going im not a hotshot just average outdoors person my friends always say i pack to much crap until they need something iv learned this from years of working in the woods great channel and good luck

Gotta love the way you were pointing at your mailman...your videos are awesome!

Hey just want to say your one of my favorite channels to watch and appreciate the videos you put out. Thank you and stay safe.🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞

You only need to run the 7 way to the axles, after that just lights

I know its probably too late but when I redid my 32' flatbed I did like you and used the nice wire. But I also ordered 3 more of the breakout boxes so all my connections/taps are tight weatherproof connections inside the box. This works great for adding lights or testing in the future. I got everything on Amazon. I also left my hubs oil bath and never had a leak.

Absolutely love your videos! Do a little research on a company named "Frozen Rotors" just south of Minneapolis, MN. They cryogenically treat rotors to make them harder and then they last a lot longer. They also sell special brake pads for things like racing and towing. I bought some rotors for my old F-150 when I was towing and they worked great until a caliper froze up and ruined the thing!!! Boy was I pissed. They are not cheap, but will last maybe 3 times as long as stock (without a defective caliper). I first heard about them when I lived in the Rocky Mountains. Lots of truckers use them out there because of the severe braking conditions coming down the mountains. Best of luck. Think of them as an investment, especially if you are going to keep the truck for 500,000 miles.

Love your maintenance videos! Thanks again!

Good catch on the magnet wires. You may be use to getting a few turns out of you rotors on cars, but you are trying to stop alot of weight (for that size of truck). The factory pads are pretty hard material so it will wear the rotors. I would run another junction box down under the trailer to where you need to start splitting the wires (brakes, side turn signals), from there you can run a 4 wire to the back for the lights. The reason is (1) if you ever have another issue you can check if its front half or back half. Then (2) if you have to replace wire again it's smaller section.

Hey Robert, I’ve had a trailer before that I couldn’t find buddy bearings for, so I drilled and tapped the original caps with a grease zero and pumped grease in that way!!!!

Robert I hate that you are having so many problems with that trailer. I called southern trailer about a year ago and was going to order a 40 footer. Started asking questions about the axles and he told me that a local guy was making them for him. That was a huge red flag for me because of parts. Started researching his trailers and your right. The quality is not there. Suck you have to go through this crap and I understand why you bought the trailer. Glad you found the issue on the brakes.

Hi Robert, glad to see you are still hanging in there, I stopped around Thanksgiving. Im trying to get rid of my trailer, if you know anyone that needs one, 2020 33ft Big Tex, all new tires and all the equipment anyone would ever need to start a hotshot business. I'm in Florida, but can deliver. Lee

Once you get moister under the rubber insulator copper wire deteriorates in no time, Did a small end trailer few months ago (before winter season) owner nicked a wire when replacing floor boards I ended replacing the whole run because wire rotted out to the connector of course different gauge longer it will last longer, only thing holding the wire in place was the rubber insulator. Be safe out there love the Videos.

Thanks guys always enjoy your videos

Mystery solved, glad you found gremlin

Actually, 120,000 miles on your brakes and rotors is pretty good mileage considering the weight you've been hauling. Glad you figured out your trailer problem. Im sure your videos are helping a lot of current and future Hot Shotters. Im even learning stuff I didnt know about smaller trailers! If it wasnt you accidently sliding them with your controller, you might have some steel bands breaking in those tires? Had that problem before with big truck tires. If thats the case, the tire will eventually blow out and you'll sling alligators all over the road?Haha

Bummer dude, good thing you're changing out the brakes and magnets on your trailer to be safe.

Going down the road squeezing your thing? 😂😂😂 sorry....couldn’t resist that one.

The current to the magnets are "throttled" by pulsing with a duty cycle. The whining is the pulsing you are hearing.

Good job that was a crazy find keep rollin and stopin be safe

Looks good except for those splices, i would have stripped the wire and soldered the splices.

Times ain't what they used to be. Rotors are throw away parts now.

Dont be afraid to put a big dedicated ground on trailer to truck....... run them now all the time with our electric brake vehicles.....it helps a bunch. Also find a good empty setting for you brakes.....saves on tires. One lock up at night that you cant feel or see...bye bye tires. Happens to all of us.. keep them with grease....one out of service with oil not good. Big stuff is all grease now. Hot shot stuff your at the limits so new wheel bearings and magnets every year...even on our race car trailers 👍👍👍👍

In 10 years of working on electric brake commercial trailers in Southwest Pennsylvania, never saw wires in a magnet do that. Guess I led a charmed life in that way. Lots of destruction by road salt though ! Carry a spare disconnect cable...any defect in the plastic covering is out of service. Road Check safety blitz is May 5-7, instead of June...unless it gets postponed or cancelled.

Get some additional junction boxes and use a couple where you have to branch off to the other lights in the back. You can pack them with grease and no more problems. Those blue scotchlock things are nothing but trouble.

After replacing alot of magnets i solved the broken wire problem by sliding a light spring over the two wires and The protective sleeve and JB weld th base of the spring to the magnet this supports the wire right where they were breaking . This seemed to solved the problem for me

Your expectation of turning a few times on rotors is wrong and unsafe. Don’t do it.

Awesome video Robert i feel for you for what you pay for trailers now it's daylight robbery definitely no quality now days 🙋‍♂️🇬🇧

The trailer manufacturer used shitty brake kits on his axels everything done on the cheap

Robert, you are becoming a trailer brake expert and will be able to hold seminars to teach others. As for that trailer which has made your life miserable, I suggest just leaving the wheels off and dragging it. Shouldn't be any problem stopping then... 😏

@15:54 That is NOT pitting due to any environmental issue. Those are entrapped air bubbles from the potting process in making the electromagnet pads. Basically the wear on these is such that it has worn into the potting compound exposing the air bubbles. Best regards, Ken

Hi Robert. Just a thought man, But is there any way to seal the openings for the wires, on the new magnets, with silicone caulk or even electric tape them so water doesn't get in there again?

Brake magnet pitting may be exposed air bubbles. That center area is a poured potting material I believe.

Hello, that wear on your trailer tires, may be due to the axle tube flexing or ocillating, so you have tires that are camber-in/camber-out, hundreds if not thousands of times a day....some semi trailers have the same problem...the fix is to get a piece of angle iron, 1"×1" or 1.5"×1.5" and stitch weld it to the top of the tube, on both sides of the angle.,/\, I hope I'm making sense. Chin up and keep trucking!

Check the decking underneath for a burn spot or groove could be your leafsprings giving out

dude from all the nightmares that I've had those scotchlok wire connectors or the worst nightmare for trailers please invest in some of the waterproof shrink wrap butt connectors you will not have no more problems with your trailer wiring

Hey Robert and Lita. My husband and I love your videos! We have just Started Hot Shotting.. We Where wondering... just noticed you took out your passenger seat.. and made into your bed. When Lita and the dogs went with you, what where the sleeping arrangements??? We have one medium size dog and a Chevy Silverado 3500DM.. Keep the videos coming and travel safe. M&S.. oh and ps i would have used Heat shrink on the wires.

You need to check the bushings on the end of the springs and equalizers. The way they wore that trailer shows me they went the cheap route they probably use plastic bushings in the springs which will not last long. They make brass ones that will last longer.

You can have ups hold them at your local terminal and pick up your stuff either the night before or that morning

That trailer would be the death of me.

Got to love being a owner operator. Lol, I know the feeling. Always having to work on something. And about the rotors, got to love big dump ass government. They don't know how to get out of the shower to shit and want to tell everyone what to do. Keep up the great videos and keep on rolling

In the end now you know in and out every connection and every piece of electricity on your trailer, just for a future hint I have found in many cases that you can buy a whole preloaded backing plate with the brake Springs and magnets almost as cheap as you can buy a set of shoes for them. Hope you can get back on the road soon

And on the 7way plug the blue wire is 12volts at all time that’s for your trailer brake away kit

Good job and good video scotch locks are so easy to use but I try to avoid them I do carry a bunch of them they will get you going in a pinch if you use them coat them over with rtv after you put them on it will help with the salt I coat all connections with rtv then if I have time after it drys I black tape it . Thumbs up as always hope everyone subscribes

Good video, but I would not use those squeeze clips for the wires. I suggest T solder them.

It used to be machine shops, auto shops would turn rotors several time, below manufacturer's specifications. Laws have chance creating liability if a company does that. Not to mention using a vehicle in a commercial capacity changes things even more i.e. DOT fines. So be safe and replace when recommended

Do those magnets come with the wire that broke off of your old ones or is that something you’re gonna have to buy separate

This dude said “fancy white sticker.” Lol. Good work

Hey Robert, was wondering if you had done a year end review?

You need to go back to your wiring, ever place that you cut into your main Waring harness, To split off for lights and brakes, were you punctured your main waring harness. You need to get rid of those connectors, than scotch lock connectors, And invest in some heat shrink butt connectors they have a silicone in them that will reseal wires. all you need is a Set off pinch pliers and small hand torch to heat them, then take some black Electric tape were you cut the coding on your main harness tape it back up to keep the corrosion from getting to your harness. The water will get into those Scotch lock connectors and Corrode quickly You don't need that green worm! I'm glad to see you found the issue with your brakes. I was surprised they would let you turn your rotors The government has really stepped in all that stuff! Good luck.

You need to schedule a working vacation for next year about this time because that is about how long those scotch lock connectors will work. They are not water/salt proof.

When wiring your brakes on your trailer the black and your red wires in the big black wire that’s for your brakes and all ways remember your yellow wire is your left turn and stop and the green wire is your right turn and stop and the brown is the running lights and black or white is for the ground I used to wire trailers for a living

Did the wiring the magnets fix your disconnect brake issue

2:15 You should do that before you get on the road(get a room)! Also... Should have got the rubber insert clips,they are way more $ usually, but.. will be much kinder to the new wire housing, in the chafing factor of things. Way better to run it (the wire) in the channel, at least as much as you can, as well.

I had the “trailer disconnected” with my PJ Equipment trailer hooked up to my 2015 F350 but not on my 2001 F350. It appears that the new truck monitors the lighting circuit current or voltage drop. My PJ trailer had a tail light wire fed through a factory blow hole made with a plasma torch in the channel and no grommet. Wire insulation was worn through and tail light wire was shorted to the frame. After splicing wire the “trailer disconnected” message went away. Nothing mentioned in the Ford manual about the message.

Try using the Lucas hub oil with leak seal. It is very thick and will bearings lubricant even if you have a leak.

How long have you had that trl

you need your heavy duty wire on both sides of the trailer, a line for clearance and tail lights, a line for brakes, and a line for turn signals and a ground line.. Your 7 pin line is only needed to your junction box. You need a heavy duty 4 wire line for each side of your trailer from your junction box. I used to wire trailers on a production line. Your brake magnets are also a critical component.

Was it dot that pulled you over in ct?

I pull many different trailers for the oilfield, hardly pull the same trailer twice, and I’ll say from my experience almost EVERY trailer manufacturer wires their trailers for shit.

Don’t add oil to grease. You are full of silly ideas today.

I just buy new rotors online. Too many rotors warped due to heat in the past as they were cut down. I was surprised you used the blue plastic wire connectors instead of soldering. Maybe try balancing the tires when you put on new rubber. I think you are getting some bounce and it's doing the tires in.

I’ve got a question for you sghs. Do you wish you got a dually? Or are you happy with the srw? If you had to start over which way would you go? Thanks

Those flat spots on the tires are caused by out of balance tires.

I learned after many years that car parts are much cheaper online. Advance Auto, Autozone and the rest will give you discounts, coupons and credits for buying online and picking up at your local store. But if you really want to save money on parts, buy from Amazon or check some of the online parts places. You can save anywhere from a third to a half on prices. I can buy name brand OEM parts for what the local parts places charge for off brand junk. If you can think ahead and wait a couple of days you will save big money on vehicle parts online. Don't forget wiper blades, filters, sometimes even oil or anything else, buy it at Walmart or online to save big money.

Just noticed your truck is a F250 any thoughts about an F250 vs F350 or F 350 Dually?

Before you put the new magnet check your magnet surface on the drum side, if your drum surface is smooth then put the new magnet, if not you need to replace the drums

What the reason you have to keep repacking the bearings? Do they not have grease zerks to grease them with a gun or do they still need repacked even with the grease zerk?

Do you have wires running through the axles

Every spot the wire hits metal is going to chafe the wire or the sheathing. Just keep an eye on it or give enough slack to keep from rubbing the sharp edges and use silicone to keep it from rubbing

Fixing to install this wire hope it works out! If so I’d be ever pleased to send you a gift card for making this video!

for your info the little angle part on your trucks brake pads are the wear marks to go by when they are gone they are used up.

You put a little preload on all wheel bearing. Some tires cup. I see that all the time. Use Firestone tires and blance all wheels and tires. Ck your axle line up. These axles are never lined up from the factory. All this is what you do in the business.

It is stamped on the Rotors have the minimum rotor thickness limits. Northern trucks and cars rust something awful, frames wiring, gas tanks!

The wire connection at 17:03 you should put in a mini junction box!!! Just an idea...

So they claim if you run the long run brake pads they will wear out the rotors at service time. Think I would always have a full set of front brake parts ready to go. In my time hauling logs I got rid of the junction boxes for wiring and used thumb screws which you can seal with rtv and tape up securely.

don't use those push blade connectors, solder and heat shrink everything

The flat spots are from out of balance wheels with light loads. It's referred to as hammering. The heavy area of the tire causes the tire to become egg shaped which in turn hammers the pavement as it rotates, giving you what you have there. Onboard wheel balancers are the cure. Better fuel mileage, much longer, even tire life, lower rotating assy temperatures. Centramatics are the leading brand out there. I just happen to sell them in case it wasn't obvious.

I’m thinking those trailer brake magnets got really hot, the pvc insulation on the wires shrunk back exposing the copper and corrosion set in..I would solder all connections and water proof them.

Hello sir John Marquez I have the same issues with my trailer keep lock the the brakes for no reason I got tired of it and go electric over hydraulic best thing I ever did You might wanna get in to it will be the best investment you ever did to you trailer super safe Got everything from etrailer let me know What do you think God-bless

Ask your UPS guy for his phone number that away on the days you have something coming in you can call and meet him and not have to wait all day. That's what we have done and there more than happy to help.

You need to become familiar with a product called Fluid-Film..

Going down the road squeezing my thing(come on dude clean it up man) grommet through holes is a plus. Looks like you got rot in your wires. Good miles on breaks but is it good miles on magnets is that normal wear? Get your own lathe turn them one thousandth next time you may be in spec. You can do it man nice bat box. Wire loom stops rubing.heat shrink it man. Just plant big trees or shrubs then they wont see the trailers. Wish you the best man.

I may have missed this in a video, but why did he switch trailers?

Robert, it doesn't do any of us to keep telling you to get rid of that trailer you simply will not listen to anyone, so keep fighting it keep wasting money on it and when you finally wake up don't act surprised if you kick me off so be it

could you put a grease fitting on your hub cap and you could grease when you grease your truck