Thanks man. I’m out in the USA with a 300tdi- so support for these cars isn’t as capable or available as in the UK. I appreciate all the help.

Very clear and to the point, very informative.

Great info. I'm going to do the Big 4 cable upgrade and upgrade the positive and negative cables to 1/0 AWG cables on my '01 Disco.

excellent thank you ...a very clear explanation ...cheers

Good explanation!

good video amigo

I hate electric string as you know mate ... this was a cracking bit of education for me ... Keith Knights will be chuffed with you as that's potentially one less call to my Electric String help line ...

Hi, again, you provide an excellent video. I am not quite sure, whether the third cable, you mentioned, is for the speedo. Isn' t it for the rev counter? (connector "W"). We fitted a 200TDi engine (Discovery 1 spender) into our LR 109 Series III LHD, ex-mod) and tried to fit the 300TDi alternator. But this doesn't work due to the position of the mounting holes. So, we had to stick to the 200TDi alternator, but had to turn the two halfs of the casing to find the mounting holes in the proper position. Furthermore, we mounted a bracket from an 2.25 Diesel and fitted distance tubes (which came in a kit, Steve Paker Land Rovers offers) to get the all in line with the pulley/v- belt. So, we are still looking for 100A alternator upgrade. We appreciate any suggestions. Thanks in advance.

Cool

awesome vid

Wanted to be sure that an engine at idle will still charge a battery? Is that correct? Thank you.

Don't some of the newer systems on Fords etc charge at a higher voltage (seem to remember 16v being one of the values banded about for the silver-calcium batterys)

HELP - Where does the thin brown wire on the ALT (TDI 300) Go to? cant seem to location in the wiring diagrams (purpose is ALT warning light?)

When I was driving defender 200 tai the battery red light on the dash board came on & off I have check the battery that’s ok & check the conditions on the battery there ok when the engine is running idle it’s not doing it only under load it does it I have put a new battery on it can you help please

I have 14.3v at the alternator, and 14.0 at the battery, can I add a 2guage wire between these points to improve charging

Why did you say don't use silicone (I assume you mean silicone grease, not bathroom sealant!) on the battery terminals? Thanks.

Nice to see your tub of Vaseline in the corner ;-)

Good afternoon,would you have any advice please?I have had a look for a thread related to this issue but can't find anything,so here goes. I am coming to the end of my defender 90 300tdi build,when starting,the ignition light comes on (battery light) but does not go out when started. If I bridge b+ and d+ it charges at 14.5v and the battery light goes out,likewise, if I put a feed to the warning light when the engine is running the same also happens. There is two brown/yellow wires at the dash,I'm guessing one goes to the alternator and i think the other goes to a white wire with inline resistor. Would you have any ideas please? I will be very grateful. Thanks, Matt

Chris - I have just replaced my Lucas IR/EF 36 Amp 12V alternator in my Series IIA petrol. My Ignition dash light stays on. I removed the small wire from the outermost terminal on the alternator and the light stays on with ignition key on (motor not running). I started the engine, with the wire still removed, and the light stays on. I used a multimeter from the small outermost terminal on the alternator (engine running) and grounded the other end of the multimeter. Voltage something like 0.2V. Took a reading at the battery: Engine running at idle, 11.7 volts at the battery. Alternator does not seem to be charging the battery. A brand new alternator. Any ideas on these issues? Ignition light and low charging reading? Any tests I can do? Perhaps it is a grounding problem? Thanks - Mike

I have a 2007 Range Rover Sport 2.7 tdv6. Trouble is the alternator and battery have been replaced (Both new items). Trouble starts when driving at 2000rpm and above all is OK, But, under that, the battery light comes on, until above 2,000rpm again, Starts fine even after left overnight without any problems, first turn. Any suggestion where I can check, Thanks?

I have a question of my particular issue.... i use an ultragauge in my 2003 LR discovery 2 Petrol v8 to monitor battery charing ... when driving without A/C it runs fine and i see charging while driving around 13.7-14.2( cold) and when driving awhile it settles in around 13.7+/- and all is happy... but if I turn on A/C it drops to 13.3 to 13.2 and in morning it is dead.. i just today replaced the relays and heater blower but still seeing similar drops.. now back story.. my alternator had been going south and finally died.. it eventually took out my red top optima but I recovered it with optima charger and replaced battery with new battery which took the brunt loss when alternator went out.. anyway both batteries charged but still showing that drop ONLY if running a/c... with ignition off I also did parasitic draw test and was reading .03amp after about 6 minutes so no drop overnight.. unless...... and Ill know tomorrow... if one of the relays stayed active? anyway im perplexed at this point... maybe its just both batteries are shot just enough they cant take a drain that well with a/c on? ugh!

I thought vaseline would stop the conduction of electricity. wouldn't copper grease be better?

Hello there! I have 2003 Range rove and when i test the battery it gives me 11.6 , i start up the car and after shut it down i test it again quicky it gives me 12.1 is it ok?

my alternator is putting out 14.80 volts at the battery is this ok ?

2.2v per cell

I think my alternator is going..... getting somewhere between 12.2 - 13.3V @the battery with load on the alternator (a/c radio headlights) sound about right?

P0ⁿ