Thank you, I am glad you found the video helpful :) Hopefully in the future I can do a video on the customisations that can be done to this pedal set.

Hi, thank you for commenting. I seem to remember I did this 50% thing as it was the advice given for people who were having issues with controlled braking (but it was a bit back so I might be mis-remembering) and that was why I did that. But either way, I found the T3PA hard to use, and that's probably because it felt so different from my daily ride (in my real car) and although the Load Cell isn't the same either, it is a closer approximation of how a real brake pedal works. That being said, I do know people who still use the T3PA to great effect, and still get faster times than me, so a lot of it is of course down to the ability of the sim racer. For me, the Load Cell pedal was just a much better fit for me.

@@OlderGamersPerspective I think you misunderstood what i meant with the 50% thing :) The way you setup your old pedals is all fine and okay. What i mean is the way TM pedals like T3PA and similar work(this doesn't apply to T-LCM) is that when you first start a game the pedals have no idea where the 100% pedal position is. So you jump in a car and press the pedal lets say 30%, now the pedals think that 30% you pressed it is full 100% pedal position(which is wrong, of course), hope that makes sense. This is why before driving always mash the pedals to their max as far as they go, so they calibrate and actually know the 100% pedal position. This doesn't apply to T-LCM pedals. Load cell pedals are more superior than normal non load cell pedals, no doubt in that. Good video, keep up the great work.

@@byCDMC Thank you for the comment, that's a lot clearer. Always so much for me to learn about sim racing, it's great the community is able to do this. Thank you again for your comments.

@@byCDMC does this apply for all 3 pedals mash them all down before driving? Just asking since I just purchased a used TGT 2.

@@ajoydas-Watch-It nope, you dont have to mash them like old ones to calibrate and use before driving/racing. "3 pedal mash" only applies to non T-LCM pedals. so if you use T-LCM pedals, you dont need to mash them :D

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it :) They are fun to make.

I am glad the video was of some help to you :) Did you buy the T-LCM?

@@OlderGamersPerspective still looking for a good deal on a used one.

Thank you for the feedback. I am glad you found the video helpful :)

Thank you very much, that's very kind of you :)

Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed the video and remained calm while viewing it. Let me know how you get on with the pedals. I found they work well if you can secure them to something. Carpet grippers are not going to work well here, nor a brick wall behind it. Mostly you will need some kind of wheel base or better still, a rig.

So you finally bit the bullet hey.

Thank you for commenting on this video :) I hope to make more videos of products in the future.

Hi, glad you enjoyed the video and found something in there to make your sim racing experience more enjoyable. Happy racing :)

Thank you for the feedback. I am glad you liked the video and hopefully those subs will arrive in the course of time :) How's the fanatec treating you? Is that with a load cell setup?

LOL - I like doing that. The irony appeals to me. Plenty of that in my other two videos if you have had a chance to check them out.

Thank you for commenting on this video. Let me know what you decide to get and how it works out for you.

Hi, glad you found the video helpful. The load cells do make an incredible difference. Looking forwarded to trying out some of the newer stuff at the ADAC sim racing expo in October.

Thank you for your comment. I hope you found the review helpful.

Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video. To me the pedals, going to a Load cell, made more difference to my overall ability to drive than the wheel, although the wheel gives me much better feedback, particularly in oval tracks (for whatever reason), so as an upgrade, the load cell is a great one to make, but only if you have a rig to secure it to, otherwise you might struggle to get the best from it.

Thank you so much. I am glad you enjoyed the video :)

Yes :) what's really hilarious is that those cars were at P1 and P2, and that was the final lap and they crashed and wrecked just short of the finish line. Even the one who flew through the air, didn't cross the line. I mean, hilarious for me....

I am going to look into the elastomer kits, as I am very curious about how much difference it will make to the brake pedal and it's responsiveness.

Hello, thank you for commenting on this video :) Glad you like the narration, it was fun to do. Cool idea about the sim racer explosion, I shall do some research on this :)

Thank you :)

Hi, I am glad you found the video helpful. A load cell pedal does add a bit more pressure onto a rig, so with the Playseat Challenge, you may need to consider a reinforcement kit (available from various places on the internet), that will strengthen up your foot pedal area. Having said that, your driving style might not need it, so it's worth attaching the pedals to the rig first to see if there is any flex while braking heavily. Either way, let me know how it turns out.

I'm in the same boat and I'm curious what you ended up going with. I also use the Playseat Challenge + Thrustmaster T300 and want to upgrade to load cell pedals, but I'm unsure whether to go with T-LCM or SRP. T-LCM would be easier to fit but SRP is almost 100€ cheaper (which is weird considering that Moza seems like the more premium brand)

@@TzeiEm hi, I went with the tlcm and they have been really good. In terms of lap time wouldn’t say improved much but consistency definitely works better. Interesting with different pressure springs, which really is down to personal choice, I went with the red then 4 middle spacers then the black.

Excellent. These hard and fast mods can be cool.

Yes, I saw the bolt, I might give it a bit of a twist as it does feel just a tad lose. Gain to 55? Is that to prevent lockups? I could try that....

@@OlderGamersPerspective gain 55 will be easier to break and will not lockup

@@Gantz71 I will give it a try.

I am starting to look at sim racing socks with extra grip.... :)

A wheel stand would also do the job.

Thank you for the feedback and also the sub :) I did not try the washers, at least not yet, as I felt the precompress worked better for me with zero washers in there. But far as I can see, they are fairly common washers, so if you take the one you have to a hardware story, you should be able to find a matching set. When I first got these pedals, I remember my lap times going the wrong way, but then I realised I was still driving like I had the T3PA under my feet, and that did take a bit of unlearning before I could get it right. So, I would say, you are right, it is too early yet to judge. Keep with it, and if you are anything like me, remember you don't have to hammer that brake any more, you can tickle it a little more. Some one else said the force can also be set to 50 and it is better, but so far I haven't tried that as I don't want to upset my times, but I think the main reason for that was some knee pain I was getting due to the extra pressure needed to use a LC pedal.

I am not too sure. I had a rig similar to the Challenge playseat, but I only used it with the T3PA pedals, having upgraded to an GT Omega Art rig before I got the T-LCM. You could probably get away with it if you bought some of those strengtheners that I have seen advertised on Etsy and places like that. Otherwise, I think you might eventually see a failure in where the footpedals attach to the chair. Let me know how it turned out.

Thank you, I will look into that.

Hi, I am glad the video can help you. I am using a Moza R9 wheel. You can find a video of how I moved from a T300 to an R9 here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jKeJYKmXlq2apGg.html Bolts onto the Omega Art with no issues, and I've never had an issue with flex or anything like that. Needs some time to customise the profile in the Moza software to get it to your liking, but once done, you can pretty much forget the settings are always there. Let me know how you get on.

Thanks for the info. Following a generous donation from HMRC! I went for the full Moza Ecosystem - R9, GS Wheel and SRP Pedals. Im sure it wont make me any faster but hopefully being passed by other cars mill be a nicer experience. @@OlderGamersPerspective

It definitely is a better experience, being passed by faster cars while you are driving with cool gear. I should know, it happens to me all the time :) Enjoy your new gear. Let me know how you get on.

Mine are coming up on their anniversary in a two months time. So far they are still quiet, in fact most of the noise comes from the gear changers on my Moza R9, the ES wheel. Man are they loud. I mean really, earth shattering loud. Anyway, glad you liked the video, and just a heads-up, I have ordered a haptic feedback kit for the brake and accelerator, which should arrive sometime next month. They need Sim Hub to work and will apparently add some vibration to my feet. Can't wait :) Needless to say, a video on this will be made :) OH and thrustmaster... Yes, where are they? Totally missing from last years ADAC sim racing expo, as were Logitech. It's almost as though they are not longer interested in this market.

I had some knee pain a few days ago, but I think that might have been the activities I was doing before racing (fitness studio, gardening, life), but I have been advised to move the brake pedal over (the bit you put your foot on can be adjusted laterally) to stop my knee from twisting while doing left foot braking. Otherwise, you can reduce the pressure of the brake pedal, both by using lighter springs, and also adjust a bolt underneath the brakepedal which adjust the tension of the pedal. Hope this helps.

U can set it so that for eg. A 50% press translate to a fully pressed brake. I think I use it on 74 off the top of my head

@@thefourfourfour9512 I have got mine set to about 70, so maybe I should back it off to 50%. I'll give it a try, Thank you for the advice.

It will help you once you adapt to using a load cell pedal. This does require a learning curve and it will take a bit of time to get used to, but eventually, once you have everything set up, you should find braking to be overall better.

That's a difficult question to answer. I can say that I have some muscle issues in my leg, and when first using the load cell brake I could feel it the next day. Possibly you would need to use the lighter spring set, or adapt it using one of the mod sets, similar to the board mod you have been using. Either way, you need to order from somewhere that offers a good returns policy. This is the sort of question you could ask over at the Older Gamer Discord channel. Lots of people there or a certain age are available to help, someone might have a more personal experience they can share with you. Take a look here if you are interested - discord.gg/7U34BsqDXj

It does make sense, and I get what you are trying to do, I think I am trying to do something similar here myself. I would say that it sort of helps, but it's because the springs and the load cell functionality offer a greater level of refinement when it comes to simply pushing down the pedal with your foot. It just feels better, and give you better control of smaller inputs on the brake. At least, it's better than the simple potentiometer system used by non-load cell pedals. Be aware though, Load Cell pedals do have a learning curve, so you may find you don't take to them straight away, but if you keep at it, they will improve your braking.

I am using an old M-Audio Producer USB mic that I bought a number of years ago. Been thinking of upgrading it to be honest. But at the moment, it sits on my desk, on a short stand, right in front of me, with a pop blocker between me and the mic. I have found that putting the text on my second monitor (which is to my right) and looking in that direction also helps with reducing the pops when talking. I am fairly close to the mic, which I am not sure is a good thing, and I would prefer to get a mic arm/boom thingy, but my desk is very deep and there is no way to use the side of the desk due to a drawer unit being there. In all, it's not ideal, but it's what I had in my possession and so I just went with it. I am glad you find it smooth and clear. I don't add any filters to the audio and record directly into Camtasia using the Narration feature, which I find easier. On scripted videos, I put down the audio first and then cut out as many of the umms and ahhs as I can, and any pauses that are too long. On 'live' videos I narrate off-the-cuff and so the video goes in first and audio second, although I do sometimes cut out stuff to keep it punchy. I have yet to do a live stream, the nearest I got to this was the Moza 9 review video where I narrated while driving and then put that together later. This had two downsides, firstly my driving sucked while I tried to multi task, and secondly, I used replay to put the video with the audio and so people assumed I was driving in third person, where as I was in reality using cockpit view. When I recorded this audio, while driving, I used a Zoom H1 with a Lav mic and synced everything up in post. I hope this information helps you.

@@OlderGamersPerspective Really appreciate the info, keep it up, cuz the Audie is so nice that no one want to leave

I'm afraid I have never used this combination, although Thrustmaster tend to use similar connections across their range, probably to save money, so I would say you have a chance, but order from somewhere that offers a good returns policy.

I've just taken a look at mine and there is some side to side movement in it, a few millimetres, but I can't honestly tell you if it has always been like this or gone like that over time. In comparison to the brake or clutch pedal, it is clearly more movement, but the accelerator pedal is a longer pedal, so that might also be why. Hope this helps.

I have not had any experience in inverting pedals, but I did find this for you: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ppZgpptkqK6oqok.html Which is a very cheap way of doing it, but seems to suggest that, technically, it is possible. Good luck, and let me know how it turned out.

Thx, I had my T3PA pedals inverted already, thats why I was hoping I could with these, apparently thats harder than I thought@@OlderGamersPerspective

I don't have any experience with Direct Drive wheels and consoles as I use the PC exclusively. I would ask this question on Reddit, where you will get a better answer. Let me know how you get on.

As far as I have read elsewhere the calibration set up on the PC doesn't carry forward to the console. I did set mine up on PC but I don't think it was necessary. On GT7 just press your pedals to where you want 100% to be and they are now calibrated on GT7. Not sure about other racing games.

Yes you can plug into your base and use, but for best results your going to need to use the software on a PC to calibrate properly. Once calibrated on a PC, unplug and connect to the base, and the settings will be saved and carried over to play on the console. I use an apex purple mod with a red spring and slider set to 97%, as the springs alone are very easy to overcome, and don’t supply just as good or as accurate a feeling underfoot as an elastomer modification.

Hi, glad you found the video helpful. I've had the ART rig now for a few months, with the XL seat, and I find it to be one of the best platforms I have used for sim racing. Very comfortable and able to cope with the demands of a load cell pedal and a direct drive wheel. I did a full review over at kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h66pdsKEtc60e4U.html but at this point I was using the T300 and not the Moza R9. But the rig coped with the Direct drive with no issues and, as far as I can tell, no flex.

Do you mean it is physically someone has changed the pedal to the right or in the configuration it's on the right? If it's just physically, then I think you can change them back without too much fuss, some people change the clutch pedal and spring to be the throttle because they say it feels better. If you bought this unit new, then you should complain. If it's second-hand, then I would try it first, as it is, and if you like it, leave it, otherwise, change it over. Makes sure you use the correct tools to take it apart and look out for any washers or springs that might escape while doing so.

@@OlderGamersPerspective I've brought it brand new out the box the Accelerator is on the left i need it on the right im so confused by this because I brought the T3PA from the same place and the Accelerator is on the right on them

@@leemartin3429 you should contact the people that sent it to you. To me this clearly is incorrect and either been altered by someone who had it before you and returned it, or it was assembled wrong at the factory. Either way, it probably should be returned.

@@OlderGamersPerspective Thabk you

Yes, I can remember that, going from one set of pedals to the next, and just finding a way to adjust technique to suit the equipment you had. I also felt the same way about the pedals that came with the T300, they really were not a match for the wheel, which was pretty good for a non-DD wheel. The big question about Thrustmaster, and indeed Logitech, is where are they now? There was a time they ruled the wheel market, now, you don't even see them at trade shows.

@@OlderGamersPerspective I have been out of the loop about the best beginner wheel in recent years but what I always liked about the Logitech G27 / G29 is that they give everything in one set (3 pedals/shifter) and in a good accessible price point.

They are very good value, and years back, I started on something similar that I borrowed from a friend, but the lure of the Direct Drive wheel and a better brake pedal proved to strong :) What can I say? I am weak :)

It's an interesting development, the C5, and I am hoping to try one at the Sim racing expo in October.

How long have you been using them for? Took me some time to acclimatise to them.

@@OlderGamersPerspective Not long, in total 4 hours but revisiting all the circuits and cars to get a feel for them. And feel like installing the old pedals again. I left foot brake with bare feet and got quite a finesse feel going with the old pedals (T300RS) VR + Playseat challenge. I've tried a wide variety of cars and had to go back to slower ones to start the learning curve over, as I was a full 10 seconds slower in the vintage Ferrari F1 cars. The calibration tool doesn't work in windows 11. The pedals are certainly more immersive tough, as they had me instantly desiring the shifter, where as before I wasn't bothered. I use paddles with throttle blip. The cars now snap a lot or drift when I've finished braking. Looks like I'll need to wait for time off work for some serious testing.

@@richy69ify The calibration tool works on my windows 11, it's the TM sim Pedals Calibration tool - if you don't have the correct one yet, you can find it here = support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/t-lcm-pedals-en/ This will only work if your pedals are plugged into your computer via the USB lead, it won't function if you have it lopped into the steering wheel with the PS2 type connector (whatever its called, I forget). But I can tell you it works fine for me, so take another look and see what you can do with it. Swapping out the springs can also help, trying different combinations until you have one that works well with your style of driving. Then stick with the one car, your favourite, until you have an angle on how these pedals work. When I put them on, I was at first slower, but after a while, I got the hang of it, but I don't think I used the older pedals for as long as you have, so maybe my transition period was bound to be shorter due to me having less experience. Keep on plugging away at them, I think they are great pedals and I still use mine today (just finished a race just now - although I came a disappointing 5th, fairly sure the pedals were not to blame :) ) You can also jump over the older gamer discord channel - discord.gg/pHJpvNff and post your issues in the Sim race help channel. Lots of great people here with lots of experience, and all willing to help out fellow sim racers.

@@OlderGamersPerspective Thanks for your help. The calibrator comes up and responds but it's always garbled across the screen. I've since discovered I had left stability control on 25% on my steam launcher, but I had previously been using content manager last year which is set to pro mode. It's much better without. I've now fitted the white spring for my bare feet and going back to school by braking earlier. Looking at my old ghost cars I was very late braking. It's possible I'd managed get too used to the flaws in the old pedals, so need to change my style a bit. I'm sure I'll get there. As I mentioned before these pedals are nice a jump up in immersion.

Sim socks had me reaching for google... That do look cool, but do you use a load cell pedal?

@@OlderGamersPerspective yes and I have simsok. The grips was a little strange under foot at first but with a couple of uses you don’t notice it. You don’t get the numb foot and with the load cell set to full 100% with max springs and no preload by using the washers it’s fine

@@jaimecarlow7368 okay, that sounds interesting. I shall look into them and see if I can do a video on them. Any you recommend?

@@OlderGamersPerspective personally I’ve only tried the simsok one so far. I’m on my first pair that are around 7 months old. They are made of a lovely material and are nice snug fit. The only issue I would say I can see happening some cases is the grips may ware off for a heel toe driver. But that’s for someone else as use sequential. But I will definitely be looking at some others to compare after these feel like it’s time to replace. As it’s my first set. I use to just double up on normal socks

@@jaimecarlow7368 so you slip them over your socks to race?

whatttt? I don't get this one.

@@OlderGamersPerspective Will Marsh

@@robertcarr4172 Sorry mate, I don't know him.

@@OlderGamersPerspective Rip will 😔 0:43 ... He was a youtuber passionate about simracing like you. Unfortunately there was no wake up call for him one morning 😔 His channel is still present on youtube.

@@THESHADOW97139 Ah I see. I picked those various clips pretty much at random. I had not realised he passed away. I'll leave that clip there as a tribute to him and I will check out his videos. Thank you for letting me know.

Not a statement I can agree with, but I am wondering why they have bailed out of the Sim Racing world, with no new products from them for some time.

I mean, that is a subjective comment. I don't have enough experience to say one way or another, but they are much better than what I had.

@@OlderGamersPerspective i have had several different ones. the plastic housing is just open to flex a lot, seen a few clips were they simply brake too. for me the quality from the fanatec v3's are a starting point, from there it goes up quickly and currently using the pricy heusinkveld sprints myself. sure they are slightly better then your old pedal set but as loadcell pedals they really aren't actually good.

@@D0G_CN I would say from my perspective the T-LCM offers a much better experience, way more than slightly better. But that is my subjective experience. They are simply much better. The Fanatec V3's certainly look cool, but they are twice the price of the T-LCM, and not everyone has that sort of money.

@@OlderGamersPerspective ok, ill give you that. sure they are a lot better then pot - based pedals because you got said loadcell. and offcourse not everybody has v3's money and surely not have heusinkveld pedals money. you do the best with the money you got, but even the latest fanatec lc pedals (witch are way cheaper then the t-lcm pedals) are better. not saying you should have or could have mind you, just pointing something out here. offcourse this is just my opinion and how important is that in a pool of 7 billion opinions? im not trying to make you regret it either, play on brother

@@D0G_CN and you :)

I had a careful listen last night, and there was a tiny bit of noise from the springs on the brake, but not loud enough to be heard over the game, and certainly drowned out by the noise of my gear changing paddles on my Moza R9 (very loud). So I would say, you should be okay.

Fair comment, I have updated my microphone recording since the earlier days of making youtube videos and enhanced the audio quality.