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I worked in hard-chrome-plating FOR YEARS, and unless you understand what is going on with chrome, what it is, how thick it is, what the base metal and pre-plating is...you don't understand what is happening WITH the chrome to 'fix it'. First, chrome (hexavalent chrome, especially) is HARD! I mean HARD...as in diamond-hard. As a result of it's hardness, and beauty, it was selected as a 'oxidation preventative' years ago...but NOT without 35-45 years of 'trial-and-failure' (by big manufacturers). As I said, it is hard...and most things that hard do one thing specifically...THEY DON'T BEND...THEY SHATTER! Secondly, just like paint...it can be plated 'too thick' or 'too thin'...as can be seen in 'cheap parts' that are 'chrome' but still rust overnight...versus a 1968 Buick bumper...that can survive DECADES without a single blemish. The general rule, the 'more-solid' the part, the thinner the plating can be...say, down to 0.0006" (six ten-thousandths)...like a sphere or a cube of steel. HOWEVER, a bumper, a handlebar set, etc., they CAN flex...but chrome is not only hard, but it is STRONG and resists bend...to a point. On old bumpers, some of that chrome was 4x thicker (0.002 or better thick)...as with 'good' handlebars. Think of chrome as 'a sheet of glass'...only it's a metal...in how it behaves. I'll skip the actual plating process, as it varies on what you are plating, what behavior properties you are trying to achieve, etc. and explain that WHEN CHROME RUSTS, it is indicative of it failing. Think of it as seeing an old 80's car, where the clearcoat finish on the hood gave up...and is flaking off. Only chrome can fail in a FEW WAYS. First, it starts with oxygen getting INTO THE PORES of the coating! Yes, just like 'human skin', chrome has pores...and is one thing you are trying to address when you control the coating thickness. Too thick for the application, wrong solution temperature during the process, and it will slough off just like skin off a water blister! Too thin...and, well, oxygen doesn't have a lot of trouble getting through that coating down to the base metal. NOW, you've got iron oxide (rust) cooking BENEATH your chrome! That 'rust ON your chrome' is actually RUST UNDER YOUR CHROME that is metastasizing THROUGH THE PORES OF THE CHROME, to the surface! Picture it, in its gory close-up detail...rusty steel BELOW your chrome, and the only place the oxidation can 'grow' to (oxidation grows as it gains more oxygen, to saturation, or when water allows for acids to form...as Hydrogen forms acids, once the oxygen is locked away in oxides). When you 'polish that chrome with fine steel wool' you are actually doing nothing but knocking that rust off at surface level, opening up a TON of previously-unopened pores in the chrome, and creating an environment where you've got more openings than before to let rust begin! YOU'RE MAKING THE PROBLEM WORSE! (and is why in 'the days of chrome', most were warned not to knock it down with steel wool, as it will 'only make it come back worse'). Now...what is the PROPER way to fix 'oxidizing chrome' (which isn't really the chrome oxidizing, but the base metal)? Either A: Have the part stripped and replated (PRICEY, but worth it, early on, if the part is valuable or rare...don't chase rust, REPLATE IT!)...secondly, if it is simply trying to beautify a $100 set of handlebars or a riser or a backrest frame...CONVERT THE RUST to a NON-OXIDIZING COMPOUND! How do you do this? About as simple, but completely different goal: First, clean the part in soapy water...Dawn dishwashing liquid works best (FYI: rust cannot happen in environments above a pH of 8.5, or below 6...not enough free, available oxygen...you can pack parts in grease, cosmoline, etc to keep oxygen out...but if you pack them in pure concentrated Liquid Ivory Soap (or other mild alkaline soap), they will NEVER rust)...use one of those 'scrubby blue sponges' (like for cleaning teflon pots-and-pans in your kitchen...they should say 'will not scratch your non-stick surfaces). These will clean surface rust, and remove A LITTLE of the oxidation between the pores at the microscopic level IN the chrome (again...picture rust as a dye poured onto a plate of broken glass...IT'S IN THE CRACKS AND PORES, as well as below it)... Now...if at all possible...take the part off and have a bin ready to COMPLETELY SUBMERGE the part...you're going to need some DISTILLED WATER and a simple chemical (often available at your hardware store, or you can order it online), called Phosphoric Acid (often found in pure form in a hardware store as 'Stump Dissolver'...check the label, purity is important). Mix outside in plenty of air, and don't breathe the fumes. You will mix 4-parts DISTILLED water (the 'distilled' is also VERY important...unless you want bad reactions or colored chrome when done) with 1-part Phosphoric acid...or 4-gallons water to 1-gallon Phosophoric Acid. ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER, not the other way around. Mix slowly, gently stir. Now...place the part into the room-temperature solution...and let it sit for 30-45 minutes. Use gloves (this isn't a really 'dangerous solution' to work with, but guard your eyes...safety is important, safety-wise, treat it like you would battery acid), and remove the part. All that 'red rust' should now be 'black'. That 'black' is no longer 'Iron Oxide', it is 'Iron Phosphate'...oxygen gone, Iron Phosphate is a kind of 'industrial primer' and prevents future rust! Now, simply rinse in clean water (hosepipe is fine) and use a soft cotton rag (or equivalent)...make sure 'hollow parts' are rinsed on the inside, as well...no need for coat-hangers pushing rags through, or anything...again, you've just turned your rust into primer! NOW...SEAL THE SURFACE OF THE PART! If you can, the best sealer you can use is what industrial operations use...some type of paint or enamel clear-coat (works well on engine parts). In the case of handlebars...you're just stuck with 'Mother's wax' or equivalent. DO NOT USE ABRASIVES on the part again...because with chrome, over time, the pores have somewhat sealed...and if you look at it under a microscope, there are 'rounded blisters' there now...abrasives KNOCK THEM OFF and open those pores! If you were going to do this, you SHOULD HAVE 'fine wool'd the part' before you started the phosphate bath process!!! After you are done, you have the 'cleanest, rust-free part' you are ever going to get (short of replating'...more 'fine wool' is going to cause you headaches and a failed process...it is NOT going to help you at this point! Hope this helps those needing 'real chrome repair answers'...feel free to copy it down...few know, or want to explain this information....and in today's world, where there are only 4-6 hard-platers left in the U.S., chances of you finding another 'old guy who used to know it and work it' to tell you...are about as slim as finding a home for $8,000, new (my first home I had built in 1975 for $17,000...a BRICK 3-bedroom ranch-style)...god, I'm old!

I live in the land of rust. While 0000 is very fine, it will scratch or dull your chrome depending on the quality of the chrome and how hard you buff. Chrome polish or metal polish used with the steel wool works great and delays rust from returning. The chrome isn't rusting, it's the metal under the chrome.

I worked in a resto shop. We used the steel wool and dipped it in chrome polish while scrubbing it in. That would clean the rust and polish at the same time. Follow up with a soft cloth and you're ready to go.

Been doing this for decades . Now if you want that brand new car windscreen and wiper feeling, go at the windscreen with 0000 wool and dish washing liquid. I often do inside as well. It takes all the shit off that sometimes you cant see and restores the perfect wiper action as well as a visibly cleaner screen. Absolutely will not scratch or damage the glass and leaves it literally like glass

I soak in vinegar (treating any bad rust spots first with Hammerite), then use 0000 wool wet, then Brasso to rid metal contamination, a drill polisher with a pea sized amount of Mothers, degreaser on a rag to remove polish residue and then dry buff. Comes up so clear you can shave in it. =D

When I was a kid in the 50's I watched the local hot rod guys use 4 ott steel wool with Turtle Wax Chrome polish. It works great, the polish acts as a lube so the steel wool doesn't scratch the chrome so much and the rust remover in the polish kills the rust. Try it, you might like it.

Wow ! I must be really old, back in the day (70's) steel wool soap pads, then Turtle Wax ( to stop the rust coming back straight away) was the standard and all we had. Here l was thinking it would be a great new process. If rusty small parts, drop them in a tub of vinegar for a day or two, then watch the rust fall off with steel wool - works great on rusted hand tools ( old dudes tip).

This saved my day, I wanted already to throw away the chrome bicycle rims because there was some nasty rust on it. This worked nicely. At first I thought the rust had removed the chrome but the chrome was still there underneath the rust.

Great video, gonna give this a try on my old 1998 GT performer BMX, hopefully if dry stored the rust will stay away 🤞🏼 Big thank you from Portugal 🇵🇹 😊

I've always used 0000 steel wool and white polishing compound for the quickest and best results, learned this from my dad in the 1960s and he learned from his dad in the 1940s! 0000 steel wool dry is the absolute best to clean the outside of your car windows but if your windows have tint applied don't do this on the interior! Also the best product for cleaning oily residues (cigarette smoke, off gasses from vinyl/plastic, etc) off the interior of car windows is to use Magic Eraser then wipe dry with microfiber cloth then window cleaner with a final wipe with microfiber!

Tried the #0000 on my motorbike. The result was fantastic, not only on chrome but also on aluminium . Thanks for the tip.

Great job. Very clear. I did the same test on a 1970 moped I’m helping a buddy with! You are so correct a bit of water works a bit better! Again thank you

It works , but you need to mention that some type of preservative, wax or sealant now needs to be applied or else it will be rusted again by tomorrow.

Great method. I used to used steel wool on bicycle chrome when I was at school. Never dry always with a light oil rather than water. Works really well.

This is really helpful. My friend just bought her first motorcycle. 2004 883 Sportster and the chrome needs some TLC. Will be using this method. Thanks!

Thanks man! I've been finding things on how to remove rust off chrome. I luckily found your video!

For everyone: Try aluminum foil. You will surprized!

As for 0000 so far so good but the real improvement comes when you add a few drops of liquid soap to the wool and foam it up with some water, - the foam will act as a cushion, dissolving, cleaning and polishing all in 1.. No charge for this tip.

thank you so much for this! bought a bag of steel wool immediately after watching the video!

brilliant. just bought my first bike and it needs some TLC. the exhaust and headlight housing have a fair bit of rust on them. ive confirmed theyre chrome because theyre magnetic. i will definitely be using this method on both item to clean the bike up. may use some chrome polish afterwards for that extra shine but will start with this. thanks for the quick easy video!!

Steel wool & WD40 👍🏻

Looks like a great improvement, the problem is that the plating is compromised that’s why it rusted in the first place. You will probably find that the rust will reappear fairly quickly.

This works great! As a second step, on a bumper, I’ve used carnauba wax and steel wool. Then wipe off with damp a rag. Looked like new.

It's a none secret, thanks for bringing it back. For many years I've used windex and fine grade steelwool.

Great presentation and a very useful tip for those who just knew. 👌 Just one more tip- remember the steel wool can rust too, so always keep it safe and insulated for the next time you use it.

Can’t believe how simple this is!

Thank you for hearing my prayer & making this video!! You're absolutely the Rust Whisperer🤘😎

Tripp On Two Wheels THANKS SO MUCH! My 2012 Yamaha Raider is starting to rust because we have almost 99% humidity everyday here in south Louisiana so even under my covered carport with a cover on it the fog rolls in every morning and gets to my bike so I have a ton of small patches of rust to work on getting off all over the bike so I will definitely try 0000 steel wool with WD-40 THANKS!

Thanks I just got some chrome wheels that have a little surface rust. I’ll be doing this tomorrow!

Good to see old technology brought back. I still use the blue magic afterwards because it gives even more shine plus leaves a protective layer.

A friend of mine did his rusty Cragars in high school with steel wool and liquid car polish. Got the rust off and really shined em up at the same time. About 1974.

i use carnuba wax with 0000 steel wool. been doing it for 25-30 years. if chrome is real bad i do a quick acid chrome cleaner to knock off the heavy stuff so it doesnt add scratches or car wash soap with 0000. keep it wet, then rinse, dry and add carnuba wax to resist moisture.

I like to use WD-40 with the OOOO steel wool

Most people believe Chrome does not "rust" (oxidation) but SURPRISE! - it does. Chrome oxidation (chrome oxide) is almost invisible because it's a very thin, almost transparent film or "network" that covers the entire surface of the chrome layer (similar process to what happens over time if you do not brush your teeth). It is easiest to see when you are using a Chrome Cleaner with a clean cloth, the oxidation is that foggy slightly tacky film you "polish" off to get that very nice smooth finish. Pay close attention next time you polish your bike. Next time you wash your bike and dry it, use just a damp cloth to "polish" (without chrome cleaner) the chrome, you will see the oxide film because the damp cloth will glaze the oxide layer slightly because it is trapping moisture from the cloth. It is this oxidation that, if left unchecked, will eventually perforate the chrome and finally, reach the steel below which will give you the classic "rust" (iron oxide) which is red (copper oxide for example is teal or green). Using 4X Steel wool will hurry-up the perforation process by giving the "Chrome Oxide" a larges surface area to work on and cut into the chrome layer to the steel. The end result will be MORE RUST! So, ask a high school science teacher, they will tell you this is fact.

top notch, works for me , make sure it NOT the rough stuff, finest steel wool is like magic, use it dry , like the tutorial man - suggests My 1956 Raleigh runabout and old VESPA exhaust pipes look perfect and a bit of polish or we 40 to keep it looking lovely. hats off to Larry

I've used S.O.S pads for this since I was a kid. I used to fix up all the bikes I found abandoned or would buy them at yard sales for a few bucks. Clean, shine, and repaired them then sale them at the flea market. The s.o.s pads powdered soap acts like a polish and really makes crome look new again. A bit of wax keeps them from rusting again. I live where it is very humid and bare steel rust over night so I use wax or a coat of wd40.

Steel wool leaves... steel wool fibers which rusts like crazy. I use bronze wool on the T top on my boat. 👍👍👍

I was shopping online for a product to remove rust from the headlight rings on a 79 MGB when I came across this video. I had some OOOO pads on hand from a wood refinishing project. I went out in the rain and worked the chrome rings with the pads. The job was done in 5 minutes. Just remarkable. I spent days pondering how to deal with them. Thank you.

I’ve used SOS pads wet, steel wool dipped into polishing compound or car wax, all work good but some sort of liquid helps a lot. The wax helps to prevent further rust.

Very helpful and thanks for the demo. I will use this on my 1976 and 1978 GoldWing

Steel Wool #0000 - Got it, thanks so much!

Thanks so much for this video. It's just what I needed to know, and for once in my life, I already have the "ingredients" here to shine up the slight rust on the bar stool legs I've been wanting to fix up. I liked and subscribed.

Thanks a lot, i find a Honda in a garage from the years 1970, abadoned forr 15 years a lot of rust, trye the steelwoll tomorrow

I just purchased a motorcycle from someone who lives right near the beach, so I'm glad I found this video 👍

Steel wool and WD40, which helps stop the rust returning. Really helps in damp climates.

new sub here. Dan from Gears & Gadgets sent me!

Thanks for the demonstration. This will save me some time and money on my winter restoration project.

Brillo or SOS pad with lots of water works as good or better. Dry and apply several coats of Turtle wax (or similar) after to prevent the rust coming back. learned that as a kid in the late 60's. Restored many a rusty bike and car using that on the chrome. The pad is nothing more than steel wool and the soap and water acts as both a lubricant and cleaner. Go on.... give it a go. :)

Vinegar and a ball of aluminum foil... learned that back in the 70s.

Here is a tip I use a LOT. Trans fluid thinned with mineral spirits. It will make steel wool glide over the surface making the job much easier as well as the trans fluid seeps into the tiny pits and prevents further corrosion. It also makes a great penetrating oil and cleaner for most surfaces. It won't harm paint or rubber components. It will make your sun bleached plastic and your tires look like new.. and it's cheap.

Amazing difference. I'll definitely try that with water. Thanks for sharing! 👍

i used steel wool on my bicycle when I was eight years old, I'm 67 now. Wadding polish works well on light rust on handlebars,fork tubes, aircleaner covers, exhaust, etc.

I've tried everything out there and bottom line is that you have to work at it. The steel wool trick soaked with WD40 or your favorite penetrating oil works great.

If you want better results with less work, soak the part in a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and water overnight. Rinse thoroughly, while wiping off the rust with a wet rag. Then rub the 0000 steel wool on it. The vinegar actually eats all the rust out of the pores and also the inside of the handle bars.

Awesome tip. I use raw cow’s tong peel to polish chrome. It works amazingly. But it has to be old cow’s tong.

I'm restoring a Hohner Pianet (vintage electric piano) and this will help me a lot to clean up the chrome parts

As said before, best to use stainless steel wool or clean the surface very thoroughly. The particles of the steel wool will make it rust again really quickly!

You can clean your car’s windshield with it to to get rid of tar, insect stuff, grime etc, and it doesn’t scratch the glass.

Worked excellent on my old 1957 bicycle! Thanks!

Every Idea that is on this site will work the constant item is 0000 steel wool. I have used everything with steel wool from Coca-Cola to chrome polish they all work! I restore Older Motorcycle's and have a constant supply of 0000 steel wool on hand as it works on Chrome, steel, Aluminium and can smooth out some paints as well. I can't live without it!

What using fine steel wool near your starter relay, that stuff ignites really easy. On the other hand, if you get bored light that wool up, it looks cool on fire. I use 0000 and mothers polish.

The chrome is not as shiny after using the steel wool. You are putting a brushed finish on the handle bars. Doesn't have the mirror shin that it had before the steel wool. The bars do look good, but not as shiny as before. Use some WD 40 helps also.

I’ve learned something useful, great Video mate 🇬🇧

#0000 steel wool does great on cleaning glass auto windshields also, when I was in new car prep, we used it to remove the cosmoline that was applied before shipping the vehicles over here from Germany. (Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen, BMW, etc

Thanks for the advice! Do you think this will be a problem if done too often? Would the steel wool rub off the layer of chrome and expose bare metal underneath over time?

Here in Lower Alabama, we call 0000, 4-aught steel wool :) :) :) Great video Tripp.

Thank you and will use this Gr8 info today. Subscribed as well. G'Day from Down Under.

I've never seen this before but I had some steel wool and on my bicycle had some rust on the forks done what you suggested and absolutely amazed at the results, rust has gone fantastic tip thank you so much. Yes I would definitely recommend this tip 👍

We always used SOS pads. They work amazing (they are steel wool too)

You can tell that after rubbing it became more blurry though. Any suggestions in order to avoid blurring the metal?

Thank you friend. All the way from the UK. :-)

Heck yeah! I'm adding it to my shopping list.

Very helpful, thanks. If using coarser grades of steel wool it's advisable to wear gloves. Best regards from Englandd

And how long does it take for the rust to come back? If the chrome layer is damaged, the only thing that really helps is re-chrome plating.

Gr8 video. I've always use aluminium foil, but Ur way looks a lot easier cheers

Doesn't the rust return in a few days? Some kind of coating after rust removal would be nice, maybe?

A friend of mine showed me some auto parts that he soaked in a mixture of molasses and water . Let the parts sit for a few days , turning them everyday in the container etc . I could not believe what i was looking at when he pulled them out and washed them off . They honest to God looked like NEW !!

Hey good day, thanks for sharing very good technique! Keep up the great work just found your channel and subscribe today. Worked on cars motorcycles bicycles any kind of equipment my entire life, as well as Blacksmith. And I am 65 years old. It’s always nice to learn somebody else’s methods that they share. Look forward to more videos. Stay well and have a beautiful day. Jim

Problem with steel wool is that it leaves very small pieces of steel in the material. If not taken care of, you will have more steel come back. I used it on some stainless steel and later found rust coming out. Yup, due to microscopic pieces embedding in the SSL and causing rust. Once started, as will rust. So I went to copper wool or scrubbers. Is rust is bad, use super fine sandpaper. The grit does not rust. Yeah, I retired my steel wool.

Use coke a cola with it... Less rubbing... Comes up a treat.

Thank you for this idea. I tried this on a rusted bathroom fixture I was going to throw out. Worked like a charm. Looks brand new now.

Very cool. My grandma said use aluminium (aluminum for USA!) scrunched up. It was very common for 1950's furniture to rust (chrome was liberally applied badly then as a cheaper method than even painting steel- simply because economies of scale- nickel & chrome platers golden era)- and the cleaners of the time 1950s were a bit strong for the chrome. Also mylanta and things like that.

TIP - wear gloves! Steel wool in the skin is no fun.

Steel wool scratches. Try brass wool.

I have used Aluminum Foil from the Kitchen as well. Usually I will wet the rust with Simple Green as well, beware this can sometimes scratch the chrome but then you can buff the scratches out later.

Amazing tip, just saved me hours and allowed me to restore something that will save me a lot of money, thank you!

There is no way that is going to take off some of the rust he showed in his lead in.

That wasn't even rusted. Try that on pitted chrome

You are not kidding me, mate. 📛

I used to use Brillo Soap Pads ( wet ) for rusty bicycle wheels, they worked great.

Thanks, I’ve always just used the OOOO steel wool soaked in a little bit of oil, for chrome or regular steel. That could be 30 wt., WD-40, whatever. I’ll try it with just water though, see if it turns out as well as it does in your video.

Well that worked pretty well... I definitely will benefit from this video. Got a few bicycles and motorcycles to apply this to. Thanks!!

Great video!! My motorbike looks so nice and shiny now, there was rust on the forks and header pipes. Your method fixed it right up 👌🏻✨

I like to use a spray bottle of strong vinegar with the 0000 steel wool (or SOS pads), vinegar helps cut the rust. I always wash it with soap after to strip any residue and then polish with chrome polish to fill in the micro scratches which prevents the rust from coming back so quickly

00000 fine steal wool and rubbing compound. Works great. Coats to prevent more rust. Works on pits too. Then wax. Done

Can’t wait to try it on my Honda motorcycle. Subscribed!!!

Nice to see, thankyou. I have used wire wool with metal polish, that seems to work well too. Stay healthy 👍

great video. I use polish or Marvel oil on the steel wool. But the easier and faster way is to use plain old aluminum foil that you find in the kitchen. You can use WD40, marvel oil, polish, car wax. On it. Or use it dry to remove the heavy rust. Will not scratch the chrome.

You just saved me from buying those fancy chrome polish products. Awesome job, thanks for sharing this 👍👍👍