At the time I did not think of it. But it's true. My TD04 on my car had no play... The waste gate housing cracked and was touching the Turbine wheel :O

@@michaelthemekhanical Oh man! I'm looking to fit a TD04-15T to my Triton-has a bit bigger compressor so it should really add some much-needed torque!

@@FBC_USA Well your Inlet pressure relief valve may restrict any gains you get as they blow off around 13PSI from my calibration of my engine. Also a new one from Mitsubishi if you get a valid part number cost $300 so good luck.

@@michaelthemekhanical i got a brass plug from plumbing store and removed relief valve.

@Cam Hawkes I have brass plugs as well, but if your turbo system malfunctions your have protection for your engine in the form of a blow off valve. Mitsubishi have Valves, different part number but same part. $300.00 AUD. I found an OEM number and bought the part for around $90.00 through my Supplier. People looking for MD173199 or MD308146... Or a solution to Pajeros upper hose being unavailable. I have good news, I might be opening door's to get some made up for people to access and purchase due to their production ending and the part's cost a lot to make one offs. I was planning on doing it from home using tools and equipment that I have by both upgrading and using what I have. Sadly, I can't quite do it... And don't know exactly how to do it yet. However, if I can open doors with the supplier on these parts being relisted, you guys will be able to purchase them for yourself! The challenge is how much it costs to make, how much profit I am looking for, how many units may or will sell and if I can turn up a profit rather than a loss. Especially during Covid-19, a profit will certainly help me get what I need to Finnish my car. Look, in regards to the Brass plug, that's your choice. But you can still get the valves it's just much harder to find than the average person may have patients for looking. Not to mention some sites you find parts on turn out to be scams in some cases. So their is a slight stigma around finding parts through 3rd party's you may never have heard of. The reason the part is worth buying at a reasonable rate, is it protect's you over boosting and potentially blowing the head gasket, putting too much load on the bottom end which is unlikely as it's a darn solid engine... Preferably that weak spot is the Head Gasket. I can get a 1.7mm head gasket suited for the engine to get more boost and to give an engine over the limit a last run if it is under 0.974mm Piston protrusion over the deck. Depending on how things go, I'd be happy to assist people obtaining parts. Their are bits and pieces no longer in production, I can find ways to get thing's restarted so long as their is a need for them that I can make a small profit from the time I spend to deliver results. With MD173199, it's tricky, costs for my first batch are expensive in value for the combined product which is valued to $126.66 each and that's not even making a profit. But these are for use, spares and potentially sale depending on the outcome, however their is a high probability that I can get more made as I am paying for the ability to make more in the near future. FYI, Bulk manufacturing situation where if their is a demand for the part, I will get a lot made and hopefully sold especially if I regenerate my losses on the first batch. Tell me what you need, I will see what I can come up with. PS: I am referring to BRAND NEW parts that Mitsubishi do not stock or sell anymore.

You want to be cautious as none will be bolt on as the housing you'd likely want is for the Manifold and allow for custom beyond that. Realistically in my engine bay, I don't believe I could put a bigger turbo as the oil hoses are in the way and are up against the Power steering box. However I've known people to put on larger Turbos. The plus side is some people say they can get 30psi out of them extra. The downside is it's probably a joke, as 30psi would likely wreak the motor and it would probably blow up, overheat, seize etc.

@@michaelthemekhanical young man im a mechanic. I was just wondering if you had a part number for a larger bolt on. It would just make what im thinking of doing easier. As far as pressure this engine should be able to handle 25 Length of time would be less

@@smallengineguys sorry I didn't get back, larger bolt ons are not something I could find. But you can upgrade your turbo with a kit increasing flow and pressure by 30% according to the source. Just look for TD04 4d56 upgrade. You'll find a few. Kinugawa is made in China, but they say german balanced so idk.

While you could braise it, I'd replace the line which is around $30 on Amayama but the wait times are about 3 months on orders. They still have plenty of parts, it's just navigating those parts which is a challenge. Get the part number from mitsubishi, try buying it there but use that part number on Amayama and you can get a new one if Mitsubishi don't have them.

Mate, can't show you now, but It's got the 5 bolt setup and running fine. Can't complain about that 👌 💯

For a few different aspects about the turbo, my car struggled to hold 100km up the hill. And could not build much power on the hill. The things I learned about the problems I had combined were - Faulty damaged Turbo - Injector's were not working correctly A note before you go into things is you need to put oil through the turbo before running it. It's critical you don't let it run dry or metal to metal, you will know it's full of oil when it comes out on the return side. But I still would spin it by hand to ensure it moves the oil. So to remove the turbo is not the funnest job in the world, it would surely be easier to remove the exhaust manifold but that's the time and cost expensive way. So sticking to the turbo is fine. You need to drop the exhaust from the outlet manifold, remove your black intake hose and remove the heat shields as they may obstruct your spanners. Depending on the type of turbo their are 2 or 4 fluid connections. 2 for water cooling, 2 are oil. Water is at the rear and front and oil is top and bottom. Remove these connections, if required take the pipes off completely, you don't have to remove the oil outlet pipe as the assembly will side off with it attached. The oil feed in however may get in the way and you'll tend to bend it while working. It maybe a really good idea to remove it from the head encase you crack it as a result of bending and flexing. The turbocharger has 3 stud-bolts securing it to the exhaust manifold in a triangular pattern. These can only be reached with an open end ring spanner and are quite awkward to crack and re-tighten, you'll have to get creative if you run into issues. I've found even with penetrating fluid they can somehow get filled with soot, in that case the threads could be damaged as a result. Once all 3 nuts are removed along with your 2 coolant lines and you've detached the two oil lines, it will be slightly awkward to wriggle out the Turbo charger. But it's possible! Note, the exhaust may become a hindrance on both uninstall and re-installation as the studs securing it tend to sometimes end up inside, and if you can't move the pipe up and down, back and fourth enough it will make aligning it tricky on install. I hope that help's with the uninstall! when you reinstall the new turbo or fresh one, use some copper grease on the nuts to make it easier to remove in future. But also, check if you have a cracked exhaust manifold or even the turbo housing. Mines cracked and their was contact due to damage in the housing. Thank you for your support, let me know if this helps and if you need any more information!

MichaelTheMEKHANICAL thanks I will get back to you after I try what you mentioned

​@@bennybtggombe5962no you wont

​@@michaelthemekhanicalamazing thanks for that helpful message about how to get the turbo off Thanks for putting me off successfully. Glad I read that before jumping in 😅

They apparently are allowed to have a little play. a lot is not good. That's for oil clearances.

@@michaelthemekhanical yeah little is not bothersome but the thing that i saw in the video is on the bad site, i mean out of the factory and still wiggle like a. lose turbine to me

I can't tell you your problem without looking. Normal black smoke represents over fueling. And the most common reasons for loss of power are. - Turbo - Injectors - Injection pump - Compression Injectors need servicing every 100,000km. Your pump needs to probably be checked as with loss of fuel pressure you'll not have fuel. Try checking boost pressure for 10-13psi. If pressure does not build take off your intake hose and check the turbo for play and see if it spins. My oem turbo exhaust cracked and I had no boost or power. If all good check your vacumme hose to the pump. A leak means you won't have enough fuel and the diaphrame won't move to supply fuel pressure. If everythings fine. You may need a professional to check your pump. Pump's are not diy jobs and getting parts is a specialist job. 1 wrong thing will result in pump failure. Good luck.

I also missed checking the acctuator, the rubber diaphrame inside is prone to fail and can cause boost to not shut off but potentially leak you pressure if on the same line as the pump. Really they should be independant.

@@michaelthemekhanical ok thanks i have the pajero from 2005 It has 235000 km It hasnt done any problem since 2005 My servise to pajero are 4 tires 2 change of oil 😂 2 air filtres 🤣 2 fuel filter 😅 And nothing else They are the most reliable and safe cars i the world . Is the air filter fault to loss of the power ?? Chek in my chanell my mitsubishi pajero

@@counterstrike3199 All it comes down to is diagnosus my friend. Or you'll end up spending a lot of cash and not resolving your issue. My head issue I kept having was due to multiple little things combined. Bad Rings, Bad Injectors, Out of spec, Keyway damage on crank equating too 1-3 degrees timing advanced at the crank, Damaged Turbo, Turbo Actuator failure, Injection pump damage and wrong pully on the crank for the timing belt. So many things can be the cause of such small issues. For me a head gasket every week. But above Is every problem that I eventually added up on the engine itself causing problems.

@@michaelthemekhanical 50% of these i dont understand because i am from ALBANIA I now english but no all of the cars parts. 👍 Thank you very much for your explanation

Just a tdo4 kit, 5 bolt and 3 bolt is difference.

First of all, pistons and valves must be replaced. Non turbo ones are not designed for a turbo setup and could let you down. Ideally get an mls 1.55mm gasket from kiwi cylinder heads and ensure you deck is machined then have the pistons machined to 0.794mm above the deck. When you install your head gasket, use hylomar gasket spray or something better, I don’t know the black goopy product professionals use, but that's because of coolant and oil galleries on the gasket are prone to not sealing with an mls properly. Once you run your car after doing the head gasket and it's warmed up, double check the torque while hot and you are done. I was taught to do it when hot because if it's loose it will tighten up and not likely leak under expected driving conditions. If you push the car to the limits the coolant may leak even with hylomar. Don't push the car and the head gasket will last. Also If it does leak, mls should be able to recover if you use hylomar or better products. If you don't it will likely keep leaking as mls are genuinely prone to coolant and oil leaks. But are better at moving head and maintaining compression to the cylinders.

Turbo was fine, however I did install a different one which was 5 bolt pattern and it is still going.

@@michaelthemekhanical would you recommend this for me to buy it's for my 1989 mistubishi pajero

@@Lakshi_Music I can say safely they should last for a while with proper installation and maintenance and preventative maintenance. They are of decent quality in hand and I'd rather replace one every 100,000km opposed to genuine at 200,000km due to price gap. My turbo is running, no problems. Just get a new diaphragm actuator or if it fails it could damage the turbo. Actuator opens and closes waste gate, sits on your intake manifold with 2 bolts and has a vacuum hose to the turbo.

Its simple. Please don't comment. Its years old.

Essential worker. Why? Are you offended?

Yes it is. However with limited budget and access to parts built in other parts of the world, it was the most viable option. With my engine I am building... Depending on the path I take with the build, I intended to buy a genuine one. The cost difference between them is around $1,000 - $1,200. $300 - $400 made in china (Low budget) $1440 made in Japan OEM equipment (Expensive) I while I'd like to buy elsewhere it was a price that I could afford. Especially with my car off the road for 3 months over a seriously damaged Turbo housing... It took a few months to get what came from China and about a week to get one in local stock to suit my car. Do I want to buy Chinese products? Not really. The quality is most times not great. In this case the reputation of the business and the global after market use of these products it was an option, however in America they advise that these are good for doing tests but after get proper gear for high performance applications. They also don't expect the life of these to be as high as OEM due to metallurgical property's potentially being a factor in their failure. Sometimes cheap is not always good. But in this case it was the best option and homework based on experience of others they are a decent product... Yes, they sometimes blow up but that's the risk with any turbocharger they build.

I bought a Chinese turbo it has served me for the last three years with no problems although it had a little play.