Lisa Andersen is one of surfing’s few transcendent stars. 4x world champ and inductee into the Surfer Hall of Fame, she is a true surf icon. But this is not a story about surfing. It’s the story of a woman brave enough to be vulnerable.
Andersen discovered surfing when she was 13, though it was not what her parents wanted. They felt the beach was dangerous. Lisa did nothing to ease their concerns and eventually wound up in juvenile hall. Her father smashed her surfboard, so Lisa hatched an escape plan. She decided to go to Huntington Beach, leaving a note behind that read, “Going to California to become world surfing champion.” She was homeless before being taken in by an abusive local. Unlucky in relationships, she was abused often, and had to runaway time and again.
Especially when she felt trapped. In the water, she was something else, and surfed like a gorgeous disaster. But she could never quite put it all together, until career suicide presented itself. An unexpected pregnancy. Over objections, she decided to have the child and in so doing broke through and became a champ. Trouble follows Lisa on her human journey. Surf is a beautiful backdrop but the real story is the epic poem of her life. It is the story of a self-made, American woman. It is a story of today.
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