@3DMN, you may like this one: Another little tip for all bowden setups: If you suffer from both zits AND blobs, chances are that your bowden tube is loose. If the bowden tube shifts just a tiny bit during retractions, you'll get a blob in the retraction end and a zit in the detractrion end. Had that happening a lot to me.

I've been having massive extrusion and retraction issues with my homebuild Ender3 clone.. Not had a decent print since November 2018.. I watched the video, made a few notes, and after 20 minutes tweaking the CURA profile, it's now printing PET-G like a dream... TA for sharing the knowledge!! :-D

for blobs and zits I found a hidden setting in mesh fixes called maximum resolution, travel resolution and deviation. Increasing these i found worked

You were spot on about the little columns that form when the nozzle travels from one spot to another. Most other videos never mention this for some reason. They keep saying increase retraction and retraction speed. I was tackling this issue for a day and couldnt get those small columns from forming. I tried so many different variations of retraction distance and speed but not luck. I put in z hop but that increased stringing. What solved it for me was actually disabling the z hop completely. Then increasing the travel speed. That solved it and no stringing as well.

Great video! Thanks so much. I am going to try the “extra restart distance” at a negative value to see if that helps with blob or zit elimination. I totally agree with your advice to line up start points, a zipper looks much better than acne all over the place. I have been using my CR-10 for over a year but I am still learning from every print. That’s what I love about 3D printing!

I found some fantastic tips & tricks in this video, that hopefully help me to rid my CR6-SE of the issues I've been experiencing with my print quality. I had the machine dialed in almost perfectly. I went to manage the profile, & hit a wrong button. I accidently deleted the profile & have had to start all over again. It took me almost a year to get the machine dialed in the first time around. Since I was starting from scratch, I upgraded to Cura 4.13. May as well have the latest version since we're starting fresh!

Awsome idea for videos. After half a year no i'm still struggeling my way into 3D-Printing and finally I do not only get good Prints but consistent parts. Still, i'm wondering where random errors come from, and how to solve variouse issues. So definitley thumbs up for this helping video Love it and I'm definitly exited to see more of this coming

The question you answered at 4:06 helped me fix my issue with diagonal extrusions. Thanks so much!

On that first print you reviewed. I had a similiar problem on a different printer. Problem was not the filament as i thought as well. I overlooked those v slot wheels. Once those were adjusted it was 100 times better. If those v slot wheels aren't getting the 3 and 4 point contact it will allow that inconsistant wobble that will cause exactly what that print came out looking like.

Great video it’s amazing how much you learned and grown in basically the short time you’ve been printing .i started printing about the same time as you and man you have become one of the best 3d makers out there .

Awesome video as usual. 3D printers are like cars they need servicing. Like you say lubrication, tighten all nuts and bolts on a regular basis, don’t just build it and think it will be fine for months depending on how much you use it. I have been using cheap eBay filament and it is so variable, pay a little more and you will get better results. Good results from eSun filament on my Ender3 for reference, good starting point for newbies to learn on before spending a lot.

Kinda bummed my issue wasn’t shown but I know he had ALOT of entrees. Keep up the work

Saw some things that seemed like they might be contributors to my stringing issues here, will have to revisit this video in the future when I get back to tuning

Hi Joseph, thanks for your videos, really helpful. I had the same issue as Keith @10:45. It happened right before my very eyes. Out of the blue, the head went maybe -70mm on the X axis, then came right back and continued the print where it had left. It did that a few times during the same print. My print looked axactly like the benchy from Keith. It happened a few other times and once, the print job just downright stopped halfway through. I ended up printing a bracket to add a larger fan (60mm instead of the anemic stock 50mm) to blow air right over the motherboard (located inside the thin steel base of the printer). I also reduced a bit the ref Voltage on the steppers. I believe the board was overheating. In any case this solved the issue and it hasn't happened since. So, I would suggest to Keith to check how much ventilation his mobo gets. He could do a test by using a small external fan to go overkill on the cooling and see if this problem still happens. Also, double-check the stepper drivers ref Voltages (it can't hurt). Good Luck! Thanks again Joseph for your videos! Thumbs up :-))

Love your channel. I really appreciate how you take your time and explain your point. I never get the feeling like you're talking down to your audience. GREAT JOB !!!

Those weird loops are possibly from slic3r's "Avoid crossing perimeters" feature. Using gcode viewers (gcode.ws, camotics, etc.), you can see weird travel moves going outside the model and back in, the long way around. The feature itself is a good idea and it actually works in Cura, but I always disable it for slic3r and have never had the issue since.

For zits I managed to reduce them by managing the Z seam either in sharpest corner or relative to a specific coordinate so I can choose where it will be. Also using retraction before outer wall helps.

I had to put my ender 3 on a flat surface and loosen the 8 bolts on the side. loosen the crossmember of the base. I heared the frame settle and tightend the bolts again. After that level the gantry (X) to the base and you are golden.solved the inconsistency within the layers. Often overlooked

80mm/s movements? I'm so used to going straight to the firmware limit of 300mm/s on my printer. Is there any good reason for slow movement speeds?

This kind of video is great. It takes quite a bit of time and experimentation to efficiently find what setting is causing which issue. Seeing these examples and hearing your comments is of tremendous value. Also a fun game: try to guess the issue before you tell the answer.

Could not find this deretractor setting in Cura, but I found "retraction extra prime amount". Is this what you were asking for to help get rid of the pimple effect.

The loops at 10:50 I've had myself a few times. Also happens often at our makerspace. When the nozzle isn't properly screwed into the hotend, it starts to leak through the threads, and a "secondary extrusion" happens at the side of the nozzle, and after a while this whisker/thread drops off and falls onto the print, getting stuck. Make sure to attach the nozzle to the hotend properly, and also make sure the tube inside has a proper 90 degree flush cut and reaches all the way down butting up against the nozzle. But I'd also agree on the slicer issue causing it to travel to places where it shouldn't. I also had that once. Old outdated and buggy slicer software in my case.

Great Video, thanks for making this type of video. I'm waiting for my first printer and trying to learn as much as I can before I start printing...

The loops on the CR-10s there are 2 reasons for this. 1- Corrupt GCode (sd card failing or something) 2- Filament run out sensor false triggering then it resumes. that will give you exactly those loops. marcus might be running into minimum retraction distance??. 4mm also seems to low. bump it up to 7mm with a volcano he should be able to get away with LOWER temperatures (to combat this) he won't need as much heat with the volcano so try 5c even 10c lower temps. also universally add 5mm of WIPE that will take care of a lot of these oozing issues :-)

I am having trouble with the ends of my print folding up and then can not finish printing. Using PLA+ cleaned platform, tried different temperatures, platform 70c, up to 100c, nozzle temp 200 - 220,

I know this is an old video and you may not reply to my issue, but I need to try. I understand your comments on retraction. I purchased an Artillery Sidewinder X1 back in 2019. As far as I am concerned it is a great printer. Out of the box it worked and not like some of the war-stories I have read. My issue that I am having is that my extruder stops extruding after the first layer has been layed down. And I mean that the first layer is near perfect. I have rebuilt the extruder in the last two months about 6 times now. Changed out two control boards and cables. Everything seems to be correct, but I can not get the jamming to stop. I am using S3d with its initial settings which has worked famously since I have used it. I have looked at other videos about this and have tried what has been suggested. Nothing seems to work. I got it to work for a while once during this and printed off items that created in FreeCad Very proud of myself learning FC. After going through a complete roll of filament it started up again and I am not able to correct it. I have changed out filament, rechecked S3D settings, lower retraction and changing other setting one at a time, but not joy. All of my belts are good, my bed is leveled and I can go into the settings and heat up the extruder and filament comes out as it should, but when I attempt to print, it starts great, but at the end of the first layer I am not getting anything. If you able to suggest something please do.

11:32 I wonder if that could be due to "combing"? If combing is enabled the nozzle takes a different travel path between bits of printing. It's meant to reduce stringing by travelling over areas already printed instead of through the air. The idea is strings get hidden inside the part. Its not always possible and sometimes you get strange paths. However I read that Cura disables retraction when combing is enabled so it can actually make stringing worse rather than better. Try turning combing off.

I’m having major blob zig issue and using simplify 3D. Would you please share your simplify 3D profile setting to get rid of zits and blobs please? I know in the video you mentioned to change a parameter in cura to fix the blue print zits but I don’t know what died and setting it is in amplify 3D . Thx for your help!

hello, we bought a endor 6, we printed a few items with PLA carbon fiber turned out great, now it will not complete a print, even with PLA+, The edges start folding up on the first few layers then if continue will shift. Our first few prints for carbon fiber temp was 220 nozzle and 100 platform, The screen says temp is 100c but my lazer thermometer says platform is 87c what am i doing wrong, i have cleaned platform more than once during these attempts. and cleaned the nozzle,

Hi, I have a home made 3d printer. I am currently facing issue with z motor position after each layer. My z motors are not moving up as they should and it end-up crashing into previous layer. i am using merlin 2.0 firmware, slic3r for gcodes and pronterface for printing. kindly advise

I have the cr 6 se and i have tried all kinds of settings to get a good print fast. But i have come to realize, the slower prints have better quality than fast travelled prints and it all makes sense because those motors cant be as accurate in fast mode.

Hi. Theres probably not a one quick fix but ever since I upgraded to the skr 1.4 turbo, my printer (ender 3 pro) starts off the print with a blob which the nozzle crashes into when it meets back. It prevents me from getting a good first layer. Thanks

I have an issue with my any cubic mega x . Can u help? I’m trying to print I did a calibration ccube and it printed the first few layers outa half of the print , Do you know what could be the cause? Could it be that the filament is not getting fed, could there be a club?

Man, your tips just helped me overcome my main issues with my Anycubic Predator - works now like a charm. Much appreciated. Subbed ;)

Not sure you are still here but here goes , I am having a sticking problem with my Two Trees Bluer Plus, and over extraction, I think. How do I load a photo? Bill

Great video Joe! I've been printing for over 1.5 years. So I think I know something, hehe. But it is nice to do refreshers like this. First I try to figure out the problem before Joe explains and some got me thinking: Hmmm, maybe I should recheck that, I haven't done it for a while. These videos are not just for beginners. ;-)

Hi how can i get better adhesion on layers as the dots on my cookie stamps keep snapping off. So im printing on cura at 0.2 but the strength in the small dots say on an i snap off

those wiping-coasting issues seem to can cause poor infill quality that can cause problems on my end, specially using 0.8mm nozzle for wanting to print as fast as I can. what happened during that wiping/coasting was that it pulled out filament during travel, causing problems from harmless lack of primed filament, causing missing start of outer walls, to print failure due to nozzle hitting accumulated blobs in the infills. Cura has wiping set to on-all by default, so I set it off and add retraction extra prime as well as retract on layer change(Z hop also works weirdly in cura if wiping is on), I'd rather have intended blob of extra priming on seams, and it can be set to start on extrusion path closer to set X-Y point so I know where to clean it up later I think it caused more problems in large nozzles than improving quality.

16:41 min video 15 min talk front to camera..... this is why I love cnckitchen and teachingtech!

Keith here, thanks for getting to my question. Weird, isn't it? It just, sometimes makes loops. Never seen it before from anyone. 😵 Will check the preview and give another slicer a try. Thanks!

Im having issues with my ender 3 pro and cant find anything on what I'm experiencing. My prints keep failing by going off "track/route" in the middle of the print tried printing different things, re-slicing, tried printing from octopi and from usb and still at some point it goes haywire trying to go to far on the y axis tryinbg to go off bed to the front and rear

could those loops at the bench y come because of nozzle leaving area because of the short time setting of cura ? "minimum layer time

11:25 that also could be if you pause and temperatures/retraction aren't set up correctly

BM: I'm doing that. But my problem is that octogons turn into stars. It's ender 3 with v427 so no linear advance. Bowden tube.

DUDE I NEED HELP I BEEN ON THE SAME PROBLEM FOR 9 DANG DAYS MAN . I PRINT A BENCHY AND AT LAYER 47 WHERE THE ROD HOLDER START TO BE PRINTED THERES GAPS AROUND THE DIAMETER OF THE ROD HOLDER AND IT LOOKS LIKE ITS LEVITATING ..ITS NOT CONNECTED TO THE REST OF THE PRINT..IVE HAD MY WALL LINES NOT OVER LAPPING EITHER . ENDER 3 PRO GLASS BED MICROSWISS DIRECT DRIVE . AND ALL METAL HOTEND . 4.2.7 BOARD HATCHBOX GOLD PLA

hi, the loops on the benchy are erros in the sd card, that appened to me before. i formated the sd card and it stoped,

Hi my printer it will stop printing half way through or any point and even when it’s not printing it will just stop and I have to restart it because when I try change the axis it like frozen and when I click buttons it doesn’t do anything and I have to turn it back on

So, I have an Instone Pro 3d printer and it has worked perfectly for months now, but when i put in filament now it wont fully purge out, (very slow), and when i start a print it has such a low extrusion, very thin, and not at all as it was when i got it. The worst thing that occurred was when i set a print, and nothing came out, no filament, but the printer was still moving, and when i took it apart the filament heated up and wrapped up into my driving gears instead of coming out the hot end. PLEASE SEND HELP!

Good video.. except the volcano part where I disagree with you in some suggestions regarding retractions..

Hmmm. My printer is being weird. I have an Ender 3 Pro, and every time I run a test, it comes out perfect, but when I do other prints, they come out all weird. e.g, stringing, layer shifts (I think), zits, bed adhesion issues, and a few others. What gives?

If you think your SD card might be bad, you could slice to your HD, copy gcode to SD card, and compare checksums read from both files.

10:45 Maybe the filament outage sensor? Maybe it is triggering, and when it does, it is moving out of the print. Then it is triggering because it sensed filament again (maybe just a filament which diameter is just on the limit of the sensor)

The loops could very well be an earthing problem, i had the same problem (mks gen1.4) sometimes it would do a move to the side and then return printing.... Improving earthing solved the problem...

Yes...this is the kind of info I need. It always escapes me how the more experienced makers can look at a piece and know where to look or what to adjust to improve on it. I might not be having the same issues as the issues you are sharing, but you are definitely clearing up questions I have as to what to check. Somebody in a forum might tell me to adjust something but I never understand what or why I'm adjusting it.

For the benchy with loops. Looks like OctoLapse without having a retraction before the move before taking a snapshot.

Hello I need your help. My enders nozzle went into the bed. The motherboard board burnt out. So I put a new motherboard and nozzle. I can move xyz. It all heats up. But it doesn't be print. I've tried a new sd card. Do I need to download new software for the SD card. Can you please help. Mike 👍

You just earned a sub my man looking forward to videos about different fun and useful prints

Wonder if you can do an in-depth video on the Ender 3 and the BLTOUCH. I’m having trouble understanding how It works and the details around Z Probe offsetting. I’m thinking of going back to my Z endstop because I can’t get a good first layer anymore

Man, I cant figure out my ender 3. I've checked everything again and again. I've even checked the bed for warps. And there is always one spot where it refuses to stick and messes up the first layer right towards the middle of the bed. I'm at a loss.

Ive been using the same filament on my tevo tarantula pro and it’s been perfectly fine and I just switched it to e3d v6 hot end and now it’s like really big layers can anyone help me out ??

Imho getting linear advance enabled and tuned makes almost all of the retraction issue go away.... And you don't have to use coasting.

Great info! I'm super jealous of the filaments you can get across the pond. Anything like that here is too expansive

can somebody help with cura porfile for .8mm nozzle e3d v6 volcano direct extruder?

I had similar to 10:45 issue, in the same electric outlet as printer I had a heater (it was cold in the room) and while heater was active, printer's nozzle wonders off the model and back. after I connected heater to other outlet ussie was gone.

Make a troubleshooting problems playlist

I have just got into 3D printing and went with an Anet A8. I know to add the mosfets changing to marlin changing the psu and adding a psu switch. One question would it be a good idea to use an emi filter switch?

Thank you for all the information you gave out. I am a beginner + not an English native speaker. I found it's very hard to find the right keywords to look up and do troubleshoot at first, let alone finding the solution. It would be soooo helpful if we can have some kind of a list or "dictionary" or "terminology" for all the basic errors in 3D printing. I am sorry if there IS sth like that exist already. Can you please share (if any)?

Nice video, but pics of the where the settings in the software would be great. That way we don't have to hunt or figure out where things are like the deretractor. Keep it up.

I saw that the guy with the ender 3 V2 has that slight layer shift problem. It’s the motherboard 4.2.2 is faulty and you should have 4.2.7

Can you do a video on different software platforms? I'm using cura with an A8, on the i3 profile, and it sucks. Slicer and the included test prints come out almost perfect but cura cgode conversions get zits, strings, and droops on bridges and I'm currently convinced it's cura after copying the settings from a successful test print and the flaws still happen, but I don't know enough to be sure.

I have a tronxy2 and my prints are not printing on the bed I have a few files that do print on the bed but the other files print mid-air

Cura just sucks. I couldn't get it to print a certain part for nothing, tried 8 times. Switched to slicing it with slic3r prusa edition and nailed it on the first shot and it just prints so much better

These are the best videos of yours :) love them

Great video. I tried enabling z-hop and it's helping with petg print. I still do see some tiny melted filament at the edge of the nozzle and extruder goes up. Is there a way to prevent that?

@3DMN im having an issue anyway you could help me i have an ender 3 pro an for some reason when it goes to lay the first layer the filament seems to not want to go onto the bed an it just seems not to stick an then following the nozzle any help is appreciated?

Thank you Joe. Albin

im getting all of that on one print and when a blob forms the nozzle hits it and the bed jumps then the print gets out of line.

Are you filming an instruction video? Or conducting an orchestra? 🙂

Weird loops are "steppers are skipping steps" Lower the speeds. Google the "skipping steps" for possible answers. It happened to me with my Tevo Flash, because TMC2100 drivers in silent mode has low tork. I increased the current from 0.980 to 1.05 and lowered speed a bit.

I bought pla filament from hatchbox does anyone know if this is good filament, can't try because I'm waiting for my printer to come

My issue is my settings keep changing on their own 😄 especially when I do it in the firmware of the motherboard and hit save but I know why it's doing it thanks to my buddies 😄

One thing I would add regarding Ender3 hardware. They are known for having Z axis bracket sheet metal that is not bent 90 degrees and causes binding on Z movement. I fix this by correcting the sheet metal, shimming the Z stepper does not really work 100% You should be able to move the z axis up and down with your hand without binding when there is no power to the steppers. If you cannot do this, then you must correct the binding to get great prints.

I've been having major issues with my printer but don't know where to get help. Is it possible for me to ask questions or submit pictures like in the video? Please let me know if it's possible.

Having issues after changing nozzle, extruding too thick filament any Ideas?

Hi bro, I need your help with a weird issue im having on my ender. Its printing ellipses instead of circles /:

great 2nd Troubleshooting video. I learn a lot. Thank's Joe ! Just one question: I set inner perimeters speed at 100% of the main speed (S3D) and external at 80%. Should the speed be the same for the 2 types of extrusion ?

Awesome stuff again

Great video as usual. Would love to see any follow ups to see if your advise helped. Keep up the good work.

Great info, thanks for sharing.

I cant seem to find filament frenzy's profiles anywhere. Please help

Joe i know you asked to use facebook for questions but i cannot use facebook. So here it goes, I have a ender 3 which worked great for months but now prints a perfect first layer and then during the second layer it starts globing up and then the nozzle comes back and hits those high globs and continues to get worse and worse until i get a layer shift. Tried differant slicers and settings though i had great settings before so not sure whats going on as i matinence my printer often and odd but important thing to note is spiral vase mode works perfectly, anything with a base more than one layer i cannot print. One thing i been questioning is extrusion width percentage, have no idea if that is a possibility? Please help as now it's a paperweight and i bought a cetus mk3 and it had a thermal runaway and started a fire at the nozzle, my luck has just been horrible.

What kind of oil do you use for the axis?

Thanks man, really good stuff 👍

How can i line my x axis to the base? There arent any screws for that

Can someone guide me to the "best" or the "perfect" so far made ender 3 profile for cura? :) greatly appreciated!

Hi i have anet a8. Direct drive what are the maximum retraction speed and distance? Thanks great video

Hey mate keep it up some awesome knowledge in your channel and lots of help !! I’m just gettin into 3D printing and I like your name 😉your me in 3D

11:33, he's using octolapse with not-so-good retraction settings

I have some issues in printing can you help me please.......

Great work man love your videos great information just got an Ender 3. How do I get into the question and answer