Brian you produce the best, most sensible maintenance videos our there. I love your attention to detail and quality. Always inspired to DIY a job after watching. Keep it up as your tips to use and fit are priceless.

I like your videos! Always informative and educational. Thanks for your hard work and efforts!

I used to watch your videos around 10 years ago, before even buying my first motorcycle. Brings back memories of shopping for my TS Taichi gear! Great well produced content and so informative!

OMF my chain is so loooose. Great camera work. I really need to watch more of your vids.

I knew about that tool but just learned about that motion pro tool from this video. Will order that one from you guys. Thanks!

I appreciate your honesty in your reviews

Kool tutorial - best I've seen on this subject - going to try all three with my Street Triple R.

You're really good at helping people understand bike maintenance and things.

Good vid, honest, cheers

Great video, thank you 👍🏻

Great video. I've had one for awhile, I like it, and you did a great review and how to make sure you use it right and still use proper techniques

Great video Van! Maybe one of the “old school” ways that how checked alignment from the 90’s is just running string lines front to year to ensure proper alignment after chain adjustments. 👍😎🇦🇺

Excellent video thanks 😊

Thanks for great, honest video, what is your experience of BPA Racing Motorcycle Chain Slack Tensioner Tool?

i got one of those a few weeks ago

I have a Honda CB1000R and this may be a good solution because you can't fully push the chain up and down to measure slack because the chain hits the bent swing arm at the low point when pushing the chain up.

Your a very interesting guy great detailed videos thank you , I see they do a lazer monkey also

i hope you guys relise when you do whot you did on the main stand when you rool of the stand the chain tightens as the suspension linkidge takes up chain slack

Well damn... I used to eye ball my chain for the last couple of years... I am thinking of getting one of these...my chain last pretty long too, and I do maintenance on the regular...let's see how calibrated my eyes are lol

You should find the tightest point and adjust at that point to avoid overtighten.

Cool little tool but i havnt seen a brake presure switch vid yet!

Does it matter if you put the wrench on the top or bottom of the sprocket when tightening the axle? I've always done it from the bottom but the chain still loosens a bit, with my axle the same way as yours

What do you do about checking for tight spots in the chain. Thanks. 👍🏼

Can you make a video comparing the Monkey Chain laser alighment tool and the Profi D-CAT laser tool? Thanks

I'm confused about something you aid a couple of times while utilities the chain monkey. You said that the bottom of the ut should be lined up with the number 1. However the bottom of the nut was actually closer to what I believe was the 2 or 3. Now, it did appear to me that the bottom of the nut "dome" was aligned with the 1. Just looking for clarification on that. Thanks for the video..

Hi Brian. I recently bought Chain Monkey to set chain in my Transalp 700, BUT with that kind of bike the problem is that CM is kinda "taking slack" from upper chain. Infact Honda specify a freeplay of 35-45mm on lower chain part. If I put CM at nr 2 mark (39 - 51mm) on my chain, when I remove all slack from chain, in the end I'm not having specified Honda freeplay, but much less....about 25-30mm (half of necessary freeplay) in the lower part of the chain. So I tried to put the chain to required slack with the "old" ruler and without taking slack from upper part of the chain and then I measured with CM and bolt stopped at setting mark nr 4! Maybe CM is not ideal for slacken upper chain bikes? Sorry but I hope I explained well the problem I experienced

Is it ok to use two finger method? This has worked for alot of other things in life to determine tightness.

When Measuringthe slack to you pull down as well as up or just up? How much pressure do you apply or is it just what moves freely?

I use a ruler, 40'000km on my chain so far

I think its a good tool, once you get the slack dialed in and the tranny shifts perfectly, you just go to that make each time, very consistent, just remember what mark you need to go to and how tight chain is when you use the tool, its easier than the motion pro, but either one works, I've always eyeballed mine after I get it where it wants to be I give it the toe tension test ... lol

Can I get this straight...the arc in the chain created by the CM is effectively the required slack..? So you mount he CM and then tighten the chain...err to what tension..? Sorry I just don't quite get this...

25 seems tight? what about suspension movement so forth, I run mine loose i guess?

When you tighten ya axel nut doesn’t it make it a little tighter? So shouldn’t you give a little more slack for that?

Id like to see that chain monkey, motion pro into one tool.

so as we all know a chain wears unevenly, some spots will be loose as other spots will be tight... how do i know which spot to measure?

Way too much trouble, that Motion Pro tool is a far better value and idea. I can appreciate the thought process and engineering of the tool, but unless you use this tool a lot, you're going to be married to the instruction sheet. Appreciate you taking the time to demonstrate the Chain Monkey, as well as the other products - keep 'em coming! :)

How on earth is this easier than the Motion Pro Chain Tension Tool that you used at the beginning? This looks like it makes it ridiculously more complicated!

Can you do a video using the BPA slack adjuster tool please vs the Motion Pro tool

My Honda manual says to have it on a side stand

So far in the video the Monkey isn't throwing its own poo yet so looks good lol.

What license plate bracket is that ?

True tension do a laser alignment tool now.

Check out the BPA slack setter. You're welcome.

The manual for the fz 07 requires that slack be measured with the bike on the kick stand and it says 52 mil of slack from the chain guard to the chain with 15 pounds of pressure downward on it. How do I relate that to the chart? chain

Shouldn't you be measuring the chain slack when the bike on the sidestand? That's what I'd always heard.

I dont understand why you use one of those chain Monkey tools if you can check it with the Motion Pro one so easily?

When measuring the slack after the adjustment with the chainmonkey (without plastic dome) it is much too loose. According to me the table is not correct. E.g. position 1 results in a slack of about 35 mm. So please calibrate the device for yourself. From then onwards it is perfect.

use the rubber ring to set the position so you aren't eye balling it every time

Are you suppose to measure when your on the bike? And not off?

This looks like a way to complicated solution for a simple task. Their scale is simply not accurate enough. Maybe if you put double nuts under the rubber stopper as a blocker,after determining your ideal spec, than it would work much better. Also the motion pro is 20 bucks cheaper. Thx for the info tho.

I would count flats.

No way does this product look like something i would use. I would have to double check the slack with a ruler everytime. For a beginner this looks like something that would cause more harm than good.

I bought one when it first came out(two years ago next week).....I like it, but is it worth the $35 price tag??....to me seems more like it should be $19.99, considering now that I have access to a 3D printer and lots of old nuts, bolts, knurled knobs, etc. laying around I could make it for probably half that price. I noticed back when I bought one they were out of England so this could be the reason behind price, in the US at least. I do the same, always bring the bolt on the tool all the way out and push the rubber stopper(rubber washer from Lowes, Ace HW, etc. is all it is) up against the plastic base and then adjust it to the number you need. I am such a perfectionist, or maybe just retarded(ooops not PC), with stuff and double and triple check things(I am the guy that will put something together and take it apart 4 times and put it back together to make sure it went together exactly right each time), the tape measure method always took me 3 or 4 tries and alot of frustration, this to me reduces the time I spend adjusting the chain to get it in that perfect "sweet spot" usually the very first time. Especially after the first time using it and finding that spot on the guide and marking it for future.

Harder on the r1 swing arm.

Well out of range. what 7 mm?

The perfect channel, for the person with a lot of money to spend on unnecessary items.

You need a tighter shirt Homey.

meh a metal rule does the job just fine and probably just as quick + more precise

You didn't just use a spanner instead of a rag to lock the chain in place before doing up the axle 😑

So much for something so simple?

But the buttons on his shirt are screaming for more slack

Looks like it's trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist in the first place

yamaha uses 25-35mm much more. so there's a lot more wiggle room in there than you're making it out to be. it's not that critical.

I have the chain monkey and to be fair I think it's shit it's to vague the motion Pro chain measurement tool is way better pure accuracy over sort of 25mm to 32mm

It's pointless if you still have to measure and everyone using it will get a different reading. Just measure it and be done. No gimicks.

So now what happens when the rider and all his gear gets on - chain to tight. See this crap all the time. I set chain tension with rider on if you don't the chain will be stressed the entire time your riding. This will significantly shorten the life of the chain let alone putting stress on output shaft bearing.....not right

Waste of money, chain tensioning is a basic maintenance skill, always use a a metal ruler and eye, most precise method.

2018 or up, its pretty new and there still using that dumbass bolt and jam nut design. Exceptable for my 94 zx9r but bicycles have better designs then this.

Dude u have made this so complicated and long for a 2 min process