Trying Emil & Felix Abrahamssons Hangboard Routine for 30 days II EPIC or not?

Рет қаралды 75,655

3 жыл бұрын

I tried the Hangboard Routine of Emil and his Brother Felix for 30 days. Emils results were just astounding and I wanted to test it myself. Can I produce the same incredible results as him? Well, have a look...
Thanks to Emil and Felix for the Idea of the Hangboard routine.
Thanks to Hoopers Beta for the excellent review about the Hangboard routine.
Thanks to Yves Gravelle for your insane finger strength.
Snippets used from following videos:
Hangboard Routine:
• Hangboard Training 2 T...
Hoopers Beta Review:
• CLIMBING BREAKTHROUGH!...
Yves Gravelles insane finger strength:
• Extreme Campusing and ...
An interesting discussion on reddit about emils training plan and the study:
/ clearing_up_confusion_...

Пікірлер: 128

@EmilAbrahamsson 3 жыл бұрын

Great video mate! Thanks for sharing :-)

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot for the idea in the first place 😉

@LibsMakeMeSad 3 жыл бұрын

Are you still doing this routine, Emil? I just started it yesterday!

@danielmacdonough5297 3 жыл бұрын

I also tried the same hangboard protocol after seeing Emil’s video. Like you, I had a minor finger injury before trying it. My results were almost identical to yours, was able to hold smaller edges for longer and increased weight by about 10%. But the thing I was most happy with were my fingers feeling healthier and able to pull harder with confidence. Great video!

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks =) Nice to hear your finger healed as well. This was also for me the best "gain" from this program, strong and healthy fingers. Rock on 🤘🏽

@flip_lange 3 жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead I'm on day 28 now. My ring fingers feel a little tweaky now could be the hangs could also be some hard climbing on crimps or (the most likely) a combination of all the things I was doing. will go a little easier esp. on the 2 fnger half crimps and thest again once I'm feeling better.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Hopefully you can untweak your fingers soon then and train/climb hard again. Quite interesting to see that you had the reverse case to most of the others I read/heard. But every body (quite literally) is different and reacts different to this kind of stimulus.

@flip_lange 3 жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead I think, I was simply pulling too hard... in the beginning my fingers felt really strong, but then they started to feel worse.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I had a hard time at the beginning to find the right pulling strength for the hangboard routine. Sometimes I felt I pulled to hard as well (because harder pulling equals stronger fingers, right? 😆)

@MrSatchelpack 3 жыл бұрын

You didn't follow Emil's routine close enough. I tried this for 30 days and definitely got better looking.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Darn it 😏

@fufumccuddlypoops5502 3 жыл бұрын

Great video! Look forward to seeing what you do next

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot, maybe the 9c test?! 😬

@humanzapee-moneymakingmonk5372 3 жыл бұрын

Awesome video dude, really well edited and put together! You'll be hanging one arm off the 20mm edge in no time. Keep posting quality stuff like this and you'll do really well on KZfaq!

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks man, really appreciate the comment and support 😎

@fittluderkuk 3 жыл бұрын

Great video man, thanks for sharing your results!

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot my friend

@davidtorres8396 3 жыл бұрын

It’s still incredible that you saw improvement despite having been injured! The key difference between you and Emil Abrahamsson’s video is that he was healthy enough to continue other normal climbing and training on top of this program. Don’t sell yourself short!

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

That's true, thanks for your kind words.

@FallLineJP 3 жыл бұрын

Great video, thank you for sharing! After watching Emil's as well, I think maybe adding more of this large campus board training would help with the one-arm hangs and overall results. Emil already had the full body strength and was really missing only the very specific finger strength. Most people would probably benefit from doing both.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I can definitely work on my big and forearm muscles to benefit from that 😉

@MovementForBJJ 3 жыл бұрын

Great video mate. I like the Roosevelt quote too, definitely going to use that. Thanks...Sam✌️

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot and Roosevelt was so right with his statement ;-)

@richardpalawofski3031 3 жыл бұрын

This is a really good analysis, I'm trying to up my game after untraining (as David MacLeod calls it) since December 2020 . I'm chaning diet and i'm really working hard to try to hit 7a/7b. This has made me understand what is required even if I do not follow Emils training session but there is so much to take away. Thanks :)

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you mate. Glad you liked it and found it so informative. All the best to you training 💪🏼

@isaaciwd 3 жыл бұрын

Great video man!

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks man 😎

@fluffyunicorn8524 Жыл бұрын

You know what would be really cool? Pulling out a sheet on Google Docs and having all who've tried this training method enter their data in there. That way the results will actually have statistical significance as conclusions drawn from a larger sample group. And what is the meaning of data if they stand alone? Have people try out both methods---the traditional 16-hang routine in Beastmaker Training App vs. Emil's 2-hangs-a-day routine. Compare results and see which is more effective. A study like that could change history.

@allyoucanlead Жыл бұрын

Something similar, at least with Emil's training method was done in the commentary section from his original video. But the comparison could also be very interesting though

@kellycrofts-johnson7285 3 жыл бұрын

Great video! I am currently in the process of testing this method out as well for the last month of a 100 day workout KZfaq video I am making. Will finish the hundred days in 13 more days and then edit the footage together.

@kellycrofts-johnson7285 3 жыл бұрын

Also, I think you got great results.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Oh wow, that sounds like a lot of commitment you put in there, training- and editing-wise. Looking forward to your results. Between the final tests I waited at least 5 minutes in between the individual tests. Sometimes a bit longer maybe.

@kellycrofts-johnson7285 3 жыл бұрын

Ok is good to know.

@willforslund 3 жыл бұрын

Really awesome video man

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks alot 😎

@josephridge6947 5 ай бұрын

Great video, for me I feel like the most important thing I gained from emils hangboarding is healthy fingers, they don’t feel creaky at all anymore and I haven’t had any injuries or felt any injuries coming.

@ilikebananasFPV 3 жыл бұрын

hey man! i just wanted to say that your videowas really well done and funny edited! could you please make a video about your warmup routine?

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot, I guess that shouldn't be a problem. It just might take some time but I'll do my best 😉

@UkSapyy 3 жыл бұрын

I never tested but i did this for 3 weeks with twicked fingers, after 3 weeks they felt healthy and stronger than me doing max hangs twice a week.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

That's great to hear 😉

@connermoyer2353 Ай бұрын

Based on what I'm studying as a student of physical therapy rn is that this protocol is a great beginner (1st 3-6mo of consistent climbing) hangboarding routine. It mostly promotes the neuromuscular adaptations that allows our body to grip/create more friction on the smaller edges + gives our tendons enough time to build thicker bands on the pulley's of our fingers. Helpful for return to sport from injury but you'll only notice muscular changes if you add weight and hypertrophy the forearm muscles.

@timesnewbabylonian8088 3 жыл бұрын

I've just subscribed brother 💪🏾

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Ahoi then 😎

@prezprezo2790 3 жыл бұрын

Interesting Protocol. Will try using my Entralpi Board.

@nenad.bakalovic8957 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for a nice and good video. I'm at the 2d week now! and it seems to work just fine!

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot my friend and glad it works out for ya!

@2fast4me9 3 жыл бұрын

Great Stuff!

@boulderfighters2590 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing! I also wanted to give it a try. Maybe I will then also make a video about it.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Yeah do it, would be nice to see more results from this program 😎

@tallgeese9715 3 жыл бұрын

your expressions are hilarious

@luduong 3 жыл бұрын

So good!

@jaimenavarrogutierrez6337 Жыл бұрын

Be aware that the middle hold on the Beastmaker 2000 is 23mm and in-cut vs the outer edges on the 1000 are 21 and flat. You might surprise yourself on the 2000! Great video

@allyoucanlead Жыл бұрын

Huh interesting, I might have to check something then 😉 Thx for the info 🙏

@hellwroughtangel 3 жыл бұрын

But what if I want to leave a comment and a thumbs up? Joking aside great video, you're very energetic on camera and it makes it fun to watch. Normally I'm not smiling when I'm hanging lol.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Comment and thumb will be accepted as well 😉 Thanks a lot, appreciate it.

@andyy8260 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video! Currently just started 5 sets of 40 second no hangs twice a day, hoping it can help with a recent pulley injury. On the second week and my finger still hurts, but I think it's getting better

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

It took some time to heal as well. Like I said in the video roundabout 10-14 days. Don't know the exact time but it got gradually better every week. Let me know how it works out for ya! All the best

@SuperSaiyanPhysique 2 жыл бұрын

How did it go?

@kellycrofts-johnson7285 3 жыл бұрын

How much time did you put between each testing move on your final test day? Did you wait a few minutes or how long?

@tropaion4821 2 жыл бұрын

Clearly this progress is due to the amazing warm up routine and not the training :) Nice video.

@allyoucanlead 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Sir 😎

@BeGravity4 2 жыл бұрын

Great video

@allyoucanlead 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks alot 😉

@bernhardlangers778 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing your results. While degree of improvement will always vary, as there are a multitude of factors involved (sex, age, will power, testosterone levels, experience....) it is still nice to see the routine itself work. Though one should advice beginners to not try it, simply because their tendons will not be used to this level of stress. In terms of rehabing finger injuries, well, slightly hurt a pully a while back. It too felt quite iffy initially. Funnily enough this stopped when I climbed a route of 2 finger pockets and heard an audible crack during a move requiring a bit more power 😅.

@bernardmeyer1849 3 жыл бұрын

Good stuff 😎

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot my friend 😎

@FabioSpelta Жыл бұрын

Hey dude did you warmed up before starting, and if so, how? Or did you start up cold? Many thanks. Subscribed.

@allyoucanlead Жыл бұрын

No real warming up before starting. Basically I hung on the jugs 2-3 times for ten seconds and then I gradually started pulling on the edges which I did the no-hangs on. Because the intensity is rather low it was okay for me to start quite cold. Cheers 🤟🏽

@evanmaclean943 Жыл бұрын

I don’t think Emil Said it but I’m fairly certain he was still doing normal workouts. It’s not like he stopped his 3-4 times a week climbing and training session. This exercise helps the tendons / sinew not make you stronger. So what I think it did for Emil was make the hands feel better / strengthen the sinew/ tendon and just allow Emil to build muscle. So I feel comparison isn’t the same. But I can say I do this and it helps my hands. But I won’t be able to improve unless I also focus on endurance or strength. Great video I’m glad it was recommended and I’ll say the same thing i tell other KZfaq climbers. If you are ever in Switzerland (Bern) let me know we can hit a gym or head outdoors.

@firstlast-wg2on Жыл бұрын

You definitely need to remember this though: your tendons will ALWAYS be weaker than your muscle. It doesn’t matter how much you train, that extra strength can be lost on harder holds, so, for example, if I could do front lever on a bar, but I’ve never climbed, I wouldn’t be able to hold a super thin crimp, at all. No matter how much I train, I’d always be catching up to that front lever strength, and by then, I’ll be way stronger than having front lever if I’m training. I don’t mean to say that you shouldn’t strength train, but when it comes to climbing, strength is the last thing I’ve ever run into being my limiting factor, it’s always been technique and finger strength.

@cheznikos 3 жыл бұрын

Let us know if you reach that elusive one arm hang goal. Been trying and it's not easy! I would be able to do it with 3/4 kg less but not willing to go that route.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Will do my friend 😉

@uberjava 3 жыл бұрын

One thing I wondered about this protocol is the difference in load that 70% of your bodyweight would be compared to your max? In Emil’s case, 70% of his bodyweight is significantly lower than his max, but an average joe like myself, would find that 70% BW is closer to my max. The point being, that the lighter load is proportionally much lighter for Emil than most climbers, and I wonder if this impacts the results?

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Very interesting thought. And I think this 'conflict' of weight to max pulling strength isn't considered in this protocol. Therefore it's hard to tell what difference it makes...

@dkamm65 2 жыл бұрын

I just started Emil's routine yesterday. I don't have weights to see my max body weight percentage, but my max hangs are 44s on the 20mm, 33s on the 15mm, and 8s on the 10mm. I'll try to remember to post a comment again in a month with an update.

@s-.- 2 жыл бұрын

hows the result?

@dkamm65 2 жыл бұрын

@@s-.- I sprained an FDS a few days ago while climbing, so unfortunately I can't tell you.

@andrewgilbertson5356 3 жыл бұрын

Nice one

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Thanks 😎

@SirRabbit Жыл бұрын

I think this hang board routine really shines for people who are trying to work through a finger injury. But perhaps Hoopers 30 sec hangs are better for recovery?

@allyoucanlead Жыл бұрын

At least it helped me with my finger recovery back then... But who knows if it really was the training regime or something else...

@AG-qv2tk 3 жыл бұрын

you should keep on mind that hangboards that have been used for a long time (like those in the gym) have better friction than a newer one

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

That is true and I didn't keep an eye on the friction part. But I think even with the greatest friction I wouldn't be able to hang on one arm 😅

@realkylehooks 3 жыл бұрын

Really nice results for just 30 days

@mikejones9949 3 жыл бұрын

gripgenie is your favorite website.. They have amazing workout tools for the hand and fingers

@paulheimweh 3 жыл бұрын

den Bogen bei 0:20 kenn ich doch. Magic Mountain Berlin :)

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Gut erkannt 😉

@mitchellwinters6198 Жыл бұрын

how are you reducing bodyweight on the hangs? Just standing the ground slightly with your legs?

@allyoucanlead Жыл бұрын

Yeah, at first I used a scale to measure how much I have to pull and then I just stood on the ground and pulled as much as needed without lifting myself up.

@mitchellwinters6198 Жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead thanks good to know

@ThePoesn 3 жыл бұрын

I'd like to hear updates after a few months.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

I am not following this training regime anymore and stopped after 30 days since I didn't think it's the appropriate training for me atm.

@dkamm65 2 жыл бұрын

Update on my previous comment. I had to cancel the 'experiment'. I sprained an FDS tendon last Friday while climbing, so I had to put my hanging on hold. Sucks, but what can ya do?

@allyoucanlead 2 жыл бұрын

Sorry to hear that, hope it will heal fast 🙏

@dkamm65 2 жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead Thanks. It was pretty bruised and swollen the day after, but it's looking a bit better now. Hopefully I'll be okay in 2 or 3 weeks.

@jannikslonina5382 Жыл бұрын

Do you do this workout on regular Training days?

@allyoucanlead Жыл бұрын

No, I only did it back then and did not repeat it since then. Because hoopers beta's review led me to the conclusion that it was not the right training method for me in the long run.

@theriwen7863 3 жыл бұрын

Don't doubt yourself, let others do it for you. Nice gains, man. Be proud of improvement. STOP COMPARING YOURSELF WITH OTHERS IT MAKES YOU SOUND MISRABLE; UUU ARE STORNG STOPPPPPPP MAN. Thank you.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Haha, you are as right as Roosevelt was 😉

@theriwen7863 3 жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead Dont understand

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Roosevelt said that comparing to others is the thief of joy... A quote I used in the video.

@theriwen7863 3 жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead sad that I missed you saying that. But if you know the truth it makes your comparing even worse, ;(.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

@@theriwen7863 don´t worry, it was for demonstration purposes only ;)

@CarlSaptarshi 3 жыл бұрын

How bad was your Inury when you did this?

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

At first quite painful when I bend my middle finger. After some time it got gradually better and at some point I could climb again and I could use it completely. In total it took around 2-3 months to be fully healed again. And while doing the routine it got better quite a lot.

@ianwhitehead3086 3 жыл бұрын

Did I completely miss the part about the collagen protocol? I took the protocol and Dr Baar’s theory as the fundamental basis of Emil’s program.

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

I feel like I missed out on something now. What do you mean? 🤔

@tenzinlee6393 3 жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead From the Q&A section in the pinned comment on Emil's video: Q: Did you take any collagen or gelatin supplements? A: The study states that this has a big impact on sinew health, but I was just curious about how the hangboard protocol would affect me so I made no dietary changes from december - february. Perhaps this is what Ian Whitehead is referring to?

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Ah okay, thanks for the clarification 👌🏼

@JonBrowning760 2 жыл бұрын

Hehe I need a jar of that nectar.

@ottoaberg5942 3 жыл бұрын

where are those pants from??

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

They are/were from Verve. They are incredibly comfy but unfortunately it looks like they are closing. I wanted to order some new ones, but all except of XL are sold out/out of stock and I didn't get any answer from them, if they will be available again. And all their social media accounts are deleted 😨 So it looks like they won't be available any more 😭

@ottoaberg5942 3 жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead nooo they look awesome :( hold tight to that pair

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Will do, luckily I have 3 pairs of them 😉

@flymain8350 2 жыл бұрын

Der gute alte deutsche Humor 🤣🤣

@npc5100 3 жыл бұрын

But how it helps with my epic hangovers?

@allyoucanlead 3 жыл бұрын

Hard to say, maybe one beer less than usual 🤔 then more hanging, less hangover... maybe...

@miroslavkysela7073 Жыл бұрын

You can not compare Emil with other people, that ist the main problem. Everybody need to fit some training recommendations to your own abilities. You need to know your body and your potencial.

@allyoucanlead Жыл бұрын

That's true but that's what I also mentioned in the video 😉

@miroslavkysela7073 Жыл бұрын

@@allyoucanlead I think there isnt a quick super way to get a finger strenght. What worked best for me was regularity and moderate intensity. So that I can still climb 3 times a week without feeling pain in my fingers + hang boarding. There are no muscles in the fingers, only tendons, so the increase in strength is very slow and prone to injury. Lot of new people in climbing looking for quckiest way to climb better and be a stronger but they will be stopped by injurys. I wasnt exception, few years ago :D